Jump to content

Welcome to the Ford Transit Connect Forum

Welcome to the Ford Transit Connect Forum - the largest Ford Transit forum discussion board.  Like most online communities, you must register to post and take advantage of other features that this community has to offer, but don't worry this is a simple free process that requires minimal information for you to signup. Be apart of Ford Transit Connect Forum by signing in or creating an account.
• Receive special product discounts
• Invitations to events
• Start new topics and reply to others
• Subscribe to topics and forums to get email updates
• Get your own profile page and make new friends
• Send personal messages to other members
• Create an album and post photos. . .More!

Click here to create an account now.

 

transit connect guest message logo.png


   
  •  
    Custom Search





escobar

Help replacing piston rings

Recommended Posts

yea, the scanner is what I want to do, called ford and they said it will be 100 to scan it but I have to tow it there obviously. Im thinking the ecu thinks the timing is wrong and is not firing anything. It does have a crank sensor and cam sensor. I was thinking of getting a new crank sensor just to make sure thats not the problem. There really isnt anything I can do anymore, im gonna have it towed to Ford and see what they say. I'll keep you updated.

Edited by escobar

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
   

From the Pictures the cam sensor is on the end of one of the cams and its timing is set with the timing chain and the sensor goes in through the valve cover.

The crank sensor is in the front engine cover and should be set by the Crank shaft. If The cam timing is correct there should be no way that the timing could be off

not like the old days with a distributor.

You Know that you could get a good scanner

I think Auto Zone sells this model and Although not a pro Scanner it does give live data and has a freeze frame

One more Question does the Tach move when you are cranking the engine.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

One more thing The Crank position sensor has an alignment tool that comes with the new sensor if the distance and alignment to the Trigger wheel is off then you would have a no start 5S1755__ra_p.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

just herd back from Ford, the CKP was on wrong, causing it not to have spark, but they said it is not running good. The timing is still slightly off I guess. Im gonna have to adjust it. Could the cylinder head I bought have valves that are not adjusted properly? Or do you think its just timing?

Gonna order this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Camshaft-Setting-Locking-Tool-Kits-Timing-Pin-for-Ford-Engine-Zetec-Focus-Puma-/381045242338?hash=item58b810f9e2&item=381045242338&vxp=mtr

should help me get the timing dead on.

Edited by escobar

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sounds like we were right there with the cause.

I think that the valves are most likely ok as the shop does this alot I would re check the timing first

Make sure tha tool goes with your engine and not the earlier 2.0 that ford has

but you are closing in on the finish

Let me know what you find

Keep up the good work

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

thanks! At least it starts now haha. I was looking in the book, and I can remove the timing chain without taking the front cover off which is awesome. I'll dial in the cams and put the chain back on. I'll have it towed home tomorrow. That kit off ebay should be here soon, and I'll give it another shot...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Take your time and make sure the tensioner takes up the slack

turn it over two full revolutions to bring the marks back and check them again.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So I think I lucked out, through a friend I got in touch with a ford technician who left the stealership and started his own shop. He said he would come help me get it lined up, all I have to pay is gas money for him to get there! I'll believe it when I see it but the stuff I ordered off ebay should be here saturday, gonna try and get it done sunday. I'll keep you updated.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cool can't wait for the result

let me know

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

so I cant get the damn crank shaft bolt out. I used the same torque wrench to take it off and put it on. now it wont come off. I went to harbor freight and got a pneumatic 700 foot pound one and it wont budge. fml. I wonder if my air compressor is too small or something. I was thinking of taking off the starter and using a pry bar to wedge into the flex plate, then use a breaker bar with an extension. Thoughts?

Edited by escobar

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What did you torque it to, did you use Loctite? If you did you might have to heat the bolt

If you do pull the starter put the bar in carefully.

How many CFM is the compressor ?

Take it slow

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I used the same torque gun to get it off the first time, no problem. Very strange. I held the button for a few seconds, so I'd say 145 ft lb or so. Its crazy how it cant get it off now, should have the same force. I did not use loctite. The air compressor is 8 gallon, 4.5 cfm @ 90 psi. I have it set at 125 psi. The tool says 6 cfm @ 90 so I guess thats why its weak. I sprayed it like 20x with pb blast and let it soak. I think taking the starter off and just putting a bar in between the teeth of the flex plate is my only option, just use a breaker bar slowly...very frustrating. Im so close!

On a side note, I have an idea of how to adjust the timing without having to remove the front cover and take tension off the chain. If I take off one cam gear and adjust it so the metal plate fits, put it back on, then loosen the other one and get them both lined up and then tighten them. Since the crank shaft sprocket is not keyed, once I get this stupid bolt out, I can set the timing on it and it wont move, then I can move the cams and chain in time, and bolt them up. The shop manual has a way to release the tensioner through a plug in the front cover, but that seems pretty difficult since there is about 3" of clearance.

Edited by escobar

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The breaker bar will work. Be careful

The crank sprocket is keyed to the crank for sure.

You will have to set the crank the crank

and then the cams

how does the tensioner work.

keep going

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

check this out:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What am I checking out

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

did the video not load?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No video can't wait to see

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The video arrived and it is good . Sounds like the crank gear is held with the crank bolt and extreme care needs to be taken when the cover is put on and the balancer is installed. The crank gear can slip is the balancer is not tightened correctly. I would like to know the proceedure for making sure the crank gear is not turning on the

Crank shaft

Happy Fourth

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks, thats exactly right. I fixed the timing and it fired right up! I still have a cylinder misfire come in but on cylinder 4, i think it could be a coil pack. I will troubleshoot that, im just glad its running finally. Thank you all for your input and support, especially you GBL!!. This has been a hell of a project. Just shows it can be done, dont be scared to tackle something like this yourself!! Feel free to contact me if you have any questions. thanks again!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great the finish line is in sight. Let us know when the final issue is solved and how the TC drives

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

well the coil packs didnt help. It still has a misfire on #4. I lent my buddy my compression tester so I cant really check much. I still have a leakdown test kit here, I'll try that and see if the head I bought is at fault. Maybe a valve again, although it looked great when I got it. It really doesnt run that bad though, im still able to drive it, which is nice. I'll keep you posted as to what I find. I thought I had this thing done! :cry:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Is is a constant miss or an intermittent skip?

when you drive it does it have good power some times

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

yea, its mostly just at idle. Power seems fine once I get rolling. If im at a stoplight with the AC going it struggles, but after I get moving its fine. I clear the code and sometimes it takes a hour before it comes back in, sometimes it comes back in before I make it out of the driveway...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Does the code say cyl 4 miss Did you try a new Plug?

what is the number of the code

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

didnt try a new plug, but they are brand new. It comes in as P0304, thats the only code it shows.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


×