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jshelby861

Oil

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Willie, my real name is Willie, and I know when I'm NOT being taken for a ride!

I'm a 44 Long and there is no getting under for me...but I did take a couple of 2"x10"x14" long and put the butt up to the front tires and drove on up! That 2" allowed me to slip right under just like a cement curb. Coming out is a whole different adventure, but if your ability to exhale is impaired you're in deep doo-doo...

I'm extra glad I've now installed the Fumoto WITH THE ADAPTOR. In a couple of days I'll have the proper parts numbers. By the next time I need to do an oil change, I'll be chuckling at Ford, maybe, and reaching with my extra, extra long arm that I intend to grow by then.

I'm glad you got it worked out. I'm a 44 extra long so maybe that's why I can reach with no trouble. Whatever works! (You ought to try getting under a Miata! Now that is a challenge!)

Edited by Willie

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Ford oil done by Ford dealership

Every 3,000 miles

I plan to run this TC to 500,000 miles!!

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I changed to Mobil 1 0W-20. That is the one with the green cap. It promises better fuel economy and it delivers. After the change, the MPG goes up a little, then as the miles roll by the MPG slowly goes back down. The MPG numbers are not breath taking, just 1, or 2 MPG. I figure that every little bit helps.

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July 2012 I purchase a 2012 Ford Transit Connect Premium Wagon. At about 1200 miles I checked the oil cold to find no distinct reading on the dipstick that one would expect. I cleaned the dipstick, added a quart of oil, and let the vehicle sit for about an hour to find the oil mark well over the full hole on the stick. I nursed the vehicle to Wal-Mart for a complete oil change. I was told they used 4 quarts of oil with the new filter the owner's manual calls for 4.5 quarts.

Monitoring the situation the oil mark on the dipsticks seems to vary wildly. Not cleaning the dipstick before checking always produces a reading at or below the low hole. Cleaning and replacing will then produce a reading at the full hole. After driving and waiting an hour checking warm, again there is a reading at the low hole or below. Cleaning the stick produces a reading at or slightly over the full hole. The vehicle does not appear to use or leak oil.

Anyone else seeing this and know what's a good reading?

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Gee Jim, you've got me baffled on that one. I am assuming the van is sitting close to level and that you are inserting the dipstick completely each time. I know you are, I just mention these in order to cover all bases. My readings have been pretty consistent between changes, right at the top of the acceptable range. For what its worth I always change the filter with an oil change and generally add the whole five quarts. A half quart difference either way is not a concern to me. Others have different opinions, I'm sure.

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I have a 2012 4 cyl TC, 7125 miles on it. I'm concerned about oil consumption. I changed oil at 5717. Half qt down now. So 1408/half qt, = 2816/qt consumption. This seems high to me. I wonder if I can expect better consumption after the rings seat a little more? I've read all the oil comments but no specifics about TC oil consumption. I'd be interested in input as to actual consumption on similar mileage vehicles. And any info about recommended or predicted consumption. I've heard about some vehicles that had high consumption when delivered new. This would be a warranty issue and would call for a new engine I think. Thanks.

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The stock Ford OEM plug number found @ 5 look-up charts was shown as Ford's # F6TZ6730BA with M14 x 1.5 pitch, magnetic plugs are offered by NRG & Mishimoto @ Amazon & eBay....

Edited by operating engineer O/O

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I use Mobil 1 0W-20 every 10,000 miles with a Mobil 1 oil filter (There's no reason to use 5W-20 unless you want less protection range or don't want to pay for synthetic)

Oil actually protects better as it ages (to a point), so changing too frequent isn't really a good idea unless you live in a harsh climate or tow alot or something like that.

I can't think of any modern car that should have it's oil changed every 3000 miles. It's not a good idea any more.

One of the reasons people were told to change every 3000 miles is because cars burn oil and if you were told to go 10,000 miles between changes the average person would not check to see if it was low in between changes.

I will also add that I always do my first oil change at 1000 miles to get rid of any factory break-in junk. From there I change it at each 10,000 mile increment (I always drive more than 10k in a year or I would do it once a year). I do this on all my cars, some of which were highly modified.

Edited by omniphil

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I suppose the current generation of vehicles have an oil change indicator.  When the oil change light comes on, I'll change it then.  Ford wants the consumer to use Motorcraft Synthetic Blend.  Everyone seems to have an idea of Which brand of oil to use.  Some people think that they know better than the manufacturer when it comes to which weight to Forums like Bob Is The Oil Guy are full of opinions from guys who will actually have their oil sent to a lab for analysis.  Then you have all the guys who will cut their oil filters in half to determine which filters are best.  

 

I'm using 5W20 because it is the spec weight, and I already have it on subscription by the case from Amazon.  5W20 works in my pickup, as well as my Honda.  Amazon had a decent price for Mag1 full synthetic oil in the 6 quart case.  Wally World seems to have good prices on Mobil1 in the 5 qt jugs.  Of course, you could always go with Red Line, Royal Purple, Amsoil, Lucas Oil. Pennzoil.........practically every full synthetic will be a decent oil in comparison to conventional oil.  Even the Wal*Mart house brand of full synthetic, is still full synthetic oil.  I suppose you could go with 0W20, since it is still 20 weight oil, with a 0 winter temperature rating, if you live in a cold weather climate.  But don't get creative.  No sense in mixing in a quart of 20W50 to thicken it up, or a little diesel oil for good luck.  At the end of the day, you should probably pay a little more attention if you've got an EcoBoost or you're running LPG or Flex Fuel. 

 

It used to be that most guys agreed on K&N Filters.  Now, Mobil1, Royal Purple, and even aFe are also in the game.  If you like Amsoil, they have a filter also.  I'm going to use Motorcraft since it is only a couple of dollars, as opposed to between $10 & $20.   Hard to use a Wal*Mart filter or Fram, when Motorcraft is only $3.95.  

You do not have to stick with dealership service if you're still under warranty.    Do your own oil change if you enjoy it and it makes you feel better.  Get a set of those magnetic sockets.  But a Gold Plug and a Filter Mag.  Make sure that you have the right filter wrench.  

 

 

 

GearWrench 3871 Oil Drain Plug Socket 6 Piece Set Sockets Only - Clam2 Pc. Oil Filter/ PVC Plier Set by Channellock81nQLvG8e5L._SL1500_.jpg61jB8e-Xl-L._SL1500_.jpgAP04AP04Head2.jpgCT4.9.pngCutaway2.png

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  Gearwrench makes a nice ratchet. Have been using a donut magnet on filters for over thirtyfive years. Just stick it on the bottom and cut the filter open to see if any issues. Father was a oil rep for a very old company and liked sythetics when they started going for longer intervals. 

Is the oil change monitor like on some Chevys in that it measures cold starts more than miles?

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The engine oil and filter debate has more than one acceptable answer.

The one thing that is very clear, is the oil being used in the engine with the filter magnet is not good!

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3 hours ago, G B L said:

The engine oil and filter debate has more than one acceptable answer.

 

 

 

 

Which is why Bob Is The Oil Guy provides a forum for just that conversation.  

 

Or, we can simply live in ignorant bliss and get our vehicles serviced at Jiffy Lube. I hear that all you have to do is mention the coupon price, and they'll give it to you.

 

 

 

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7 hours ago, Fifty150 said:

At the end of the day, you should probably pay a little more attention if you've got an EcoBoost or you're running LPG or Flex Fuel.

My Ecoboost engine has "Ford recommends Castrol" written on the cover as well as Castrol logo on the oil cap.

Fully synthetic, naturally.

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Most car owners never plan to keep their car for a 100,000 miles.  The oil choice for them is not a big deal no mater what engine or what service.

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8 hours ago, mrtn said:

My Ecoboost engine has "Ford recommends Castrol" written on the cover as well as Castrol logo on the oil cap.

Fully synthetic, naturally.

My fuel cap on my F-150 says BP.  Yet, in my area, there are no BP stations.  

The owners manual says Motorcraft.  

 

I believe that the brand logo on the oil cap, and fuel cap, is simply advertising.  Castrol and BP probably paid a certain amount of money for their logos to be placed on the caps.  I am fairly certain that at the factory, Ford/Motorcraft oil is the initial fill.

 

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In case of a sticker, yes, but the original oil cap has Castrol printed directly on it. As you know, Motorcraft is not a manufacturer of anything, it's just Ford's brand name of stuff they source from actual manufacturers and guarantee the quality by their own branding. So there can be anything in the engine from the factory.

castrol_recommended.jpg

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13 hours ago, G B L said:

Most car owners never plan to keep their car for a 100,000 miles.  The oil choice for them is not a big deal no mater what engine or what service.

Average age of american cars on the road is over 11 years. Once we got rid of the carburator that was washing the cylinder walls with gas when cold and some better oil we had a chance at getting past 100k without much issue. 

There was a Toyota pickup owner that was on tv that the manufacture took back his truck and gave him a new one after he went past 1 million miles having the dealer do the  normal maintenance. Still the original engine and drive train.

Edited by Prairie Pyro
additional info

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Every Car I have had any thing to do with since 1964 has gone over 150000mi. There were Several Oldsmobile's with  Carburetors that went well over 200000 and  it wasn't the worn out engine that ended the ride, Around here with out special care  12- 15 years  is the life of a car used 12 month's a  year.

Edited by G B L

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You don't want metal shavings fixed in the oil filter. A magnetic oil drain plug works just fine. It gathers the junk in the very bottom of the oil pan and draining the oil will remove all loose metal particles. You can just wipe the plug clean and refit.

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On 9/15/2016 at 5:14 PM, Prairie Pyro said:

 

There was a Toyota pickup owner that was on tv that the manufacture took back his truck and gave him a new one after he went past 1 million miles having the dealer do the  normal maintenance. Still the original engine and drive train.

Oh What A Feeling!

 

Those little Toyota Tacoma are actually really good.  I would have bought one if they were more reasonably priced.  At the same price point, I could have bought a 1/4 ton Tacoma, or any American 1/2 ton with an 8' bed, and capable of carrying 4'X8' plywood.  And I just couldn't see transporting motorcycles without an 8' bed, bike properly strapped, and tailgate closed & locked.  Believe me, there is a huge difference between 1/4 ton & 1/2 ton when you start loading them down with any amount of weight.  I often have a pained expression when I see those little 1/4 ton trucks sagging in the rear, with the suspension overloaded.  Which is why I doubt if I will ever carry anything other than people in my Transit Connect.

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I think you will find that the TC will carry its Rated cargo weight Very well .  Today I had 4 people and my tool kit (400-500 Lbs ) in the car and it did a very competent job .

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No problem at all with rated payload.  I've had 7 adults, each weighing over 200 lbs.  I worry about things like a transformer, motor, 2,500' of 1/0 wire on a spool, packs of flooring, or 24 cases of Snapple when Costco has a sale.

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You really seem to like that Snapple, don't you :P

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No.  I'm actually more of a Pabst Blue Ribbon & Tsing Tao kind of guy.  But a buddy of mine loaded up with 24 cases of Snapple, and it sank his Honda Pilot in the Costco parking lot.  Rear bumper hanging so low that rear wheels were out of alignment and rubbing into wheel well.  I had to rescue him with my pickup truck.  Gosh, was he pissed.  $XX,XXX for a top of the line, Honda's Finest, and it failed with a Costco run.  

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