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Found 8 results

  1. Finally started to work on mods for my Titanium. I'm outfitting this to haul my SAR dog and my SAR gear. I had a few goals in mind when I started. 1- Be able to restore for resale someday... maybe.. 2- Maintain capability to have a least one rear seat so two passengers can be handled 3- Maximize hidden storage area to keep SAR gear out of sight. 4 - Be able to put out sleeping bag and sleep in van. I have other things as well but these drove this set of mods I'm posting. I first removed both rear seats and the passenger side middle seat. I wanted to build a raised floor with storage underneath. I saw in this thread http://fordtransitconnectforum.com/topic/5542-diy-roof-rack-for-under100/#comment-15382 the use of uni-struts for a roof rack and that gave me the idea of using them for the supports of the raised floor. I was able to bolt the unistruts to the floor using the same bolts from the seat holes. While the bolt heads are big enough, I recommend adding a washer to them because the heads are just barely larger than the hole cutouts in the uni-struts. After trying a few configurations i decided on the layout in the photo below.
  2. Hey, guys! Glad that I found this site. There's all kinds of great info here. I have a 15 Titanium that I got an awesome deal on and have done some camping in with seats flat. But I knew that something was missing. It was a no-brainer that by removing the seats I could gain at least 6" of headspace. r1alvin and Don Shockley, among others, have provided some great info which motivated me to do a more thorough build out. At this point, I've got the rear area stripped and ready for the flooring. Thinking of going with a dense foam for sound/heat barrier, then install .05 sanded plywood topped with adhesive vinyl flooring. Anyway, that's where I'm at for now. Any input and suggestions would be awesome. And I think it's worth mentioning, I'm on a tight budget. Who knows... I might become a permanent van dweller.
  3. We bought our 2016 LWB Transit Connect for the purpose of converting it into a road trip vehicle. We often drive long distances to ski (we live in Michigan and there aren't any mountains here) and ride mountain bikes. The van is intended to serve those use cases. It isn't intended to be lived out of for long periods of time, it just needs to be comfortable enough to pull off the road when we get tired and catch some good sleep. When we get to the destination, we will stay in more legitimate accommodations (VRBO, AirBnB, etc...). I'll start with the electrical system. Having slept in my various cars (Subaru WRX and Subaru Forester), I knew that we had to invest in keeping warm. If I had my say, I'd invest in better sleeping bags and be done with it. Mrs. Chong, on the other hand, was having none of that idea. It was heated blanket or bust. Luckily, I have some friends who are electrical engineers. They helped me design a power system that will power the heated blanket we bought for a full 1.5 days without recharging. The BOM for this system is as follows: 2 Optima YellowTop D31t 75Ah Deep Cycle Batteries Battery Boxes Blue Sea Systems 120A DC Add a Battery Kit Noco Genius 10AMP 1 Bank Battery Charger 3 Blue Sea Systems Fuse Block Terminals 3 125A Blue Sea Systems Terminal (slow blow) Fuses Blue Sea Systems 6 Circuit DC Fuse Block 1000W Pure Sine Wave Inverter Combination Cigarette Lighter and USB Outlets (DC) 2AWG Copper Wire And various other bits for wiring up the circuits. The first thing to do was to run the wiring from the engine compartment into the cabin. We ran this through the stock grommet in the firewall behind the glove box on the passenger side. We ran one 2AWG wire to the positive battery terminal and one 2AWG wire to the stock chassis ground next to the battery. We installed one of the Fuse Block Terminals and Slow blow fuses between the starter battery and the add a battery kit: We then got to work on wiring up the rest of the kit. Here's a shot of the panel I made for the Add a Battery Kit and the DC Fuse Panel: That panel lives in that little cubby beneath the passenger seat. Here's an in-progress shot of wiring up the batteries, charger, and inverter: You can see that every single battery has a fuse on the positive terminal. This should keep the system from drawing too much current. If something needs more than 125A, that likely wouldn't be good. It will be neat to see what that inverter does when I finally power it on with a load. Those fuses are rated to sustain 2x the current load they are rated for, for a duration of 1 second, I believe (I'm not an expert on this stuff, but I have friends that design the transformers that live on the global electrical grid, they signed off on the design). And the forum is now telling me I'm at the attachment limit for a single post. Really need BBCode so I can link these from flickr. To be continued...
  4. https://www.thesun.co.uk/travel/3866418/a-couple-who-converted-a-ford-transit-into-a-camper-van-for-under-2k-are-now-road-tripping-across-europe/
  5. My company, Glampervan, is now converting Ford Transit Connects (2010-2013) to our proprietary design. Check it out here: https://www.facebook.com/glampervanus/photos/a.938060569614378.1073741828.936097313144037/1308611705892594/?type=3&theater - Rob Novotny Chief Excursion Officer Glampervan
  6. I'm searching for a TC to drive / add a bed platform for frequent rock climbing trips in California. Parking here is a nightmare so I'm optimizing for the shortest length that I can reasonably sleep in (5'10"). I'd prefer a wagon so that I can remove the bed & put the seats back in for group trips. Options: A.) I absolutely love the 2014/15 SWB TC's with the 1.6L turbo. The SWBs look great and the 1.6 offers slightly more power/economy. This is my top pick but the specs show the distance from the front seat @ the belt to the rear doors is only 60.9 inches (5 feet). I assume this is with the 2nd row seats removed? Do the front seats lean forward? Does anyone know of any SWB conversion posts? I can't find them... especially if the owner is 5'10" or more. B.) 2012/13. Great overall length & extra height but slightly less peppy & less efficiency. Few wagons for sale. Less frills overall and they seem to cost about the same as low-mileage 14's. Bad safety ratings. C.) 14/15 LWB. Argh, I'm just less excited about these overall. They seem too long for my needs. http://www.ford.com/trucks/transitconnect/specifications/interior/
  7. Ford Transit Connect CUSTOM Sink and Bed attachment conversion furnished by the one and only Kevin Hornby from Southern California. Both attachments are new and have never been installed into the Ford Transit Connect. Hand built and custom made to fit like a glove. First half images are of actual product and last half of images are stock photos to show what it looks like after being installed. HIGHLIGHTS: Kitchen Sink - Stainless steel construction, pressurized water system, 4 storage cubbies built inside, foldable design to save space, 110v electrical outlet, all hoses and tubes connect with no leaks. Bed - Marine-grade canvas foldable foam-core bed comfortably sleeps 1 person and can fit 2. Folds up and stows away saving even more space. Both attachments were $1,600 brand new. Kevin Hornby, the custom conversion designer, no longer produces these units so here's your chance to own a brand new set for a cheap price! Pick-up only in Grover Beach or San Luis Obispo County. Asking for $600 or Best Offer! Please email info@chrisburkard.com for more inquiries or call 805-270-3835. Thanks!
  8. Hello from Montreal Qc,

    I've just picked up my new 2012 TC XLT. I was looking for a vehicle that would give me both economical city driving and some of the comforts of a camping car without going overboard about it. Any help/hints/suggestions will be appreciated. I've already faced my first problem... charging/using an accessory battery. Bought a battery isolator but now that it's installed and shows signs of use, it doesn't work and according to dealers, it never will due to the feedback needed by the alternator ! :-( 2 dealers have suggested I put the batteries in parallel with a cut off switch... that worries me a bit... Isn't there a risk of overdraining the alternator by connecting 2 batteries in parallel ? Anyway, I'll let you known my progress.
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