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CAT has been removed (gutted, the pipe simply has been emptied), and there's no lambda sensors close to it - I presume the single one sits pre-turbo, no post-CAT one present (so the engine cannot detect the presence of the CAT!). The turbo spins up between 100 - 150 rpm sooner hence the powerband kicks in sooner, more evident than I expected actually. Too soon to determine a difference in fuel economy but the second half of the tank is creeping to 'less' whilst driving same style on same roads to work. Happy!
Lucky, various bulkheads exist, pls tell your dealer as some are completely unaware of this (mine was!). You get the 'solid' 1-piece steel pressing (with an indentation where a curved window would fit if you're DIY-handy enough) and you get the almost-same bulkhead but with a window installed, plus this window has a mesh-cover on the inside. This bulkhead also has a small hatch-'door' which allows to load longer items, and this goes hand in hand with a folding (seat & backrest both!) passenger seat to make space for those long items. Btw, this is a zero-cost option for the dealer hence for you too: same price as the 'solid' bulkhead. This window allows you to install OEM glass windows in the back doors, you realize this? Just cut out the metal parts and glue the glass on the outside! In some regions a metal mesh bulkhead exists but I'd not choose this one if I were you - you wanted to make a camper of sorts? I'd opt for the metal bulkhead with the window & hatch in it - and I'd make a door in it, behind the middle passenger seat (you know you can fold down this backrest?). Should be easy-enough if you're handy but also, the climate control of the car is meant to heat/cool the front's volume only, not the loadspace at the back.... hence all will still work well, plus it's a bit quieter with the bulkhead & door closed. Lastly, yes, you can remove/modify this bulkhead without detrimental effects for the vehicle itself, you may just have to create proper anchor points for the seatbelts if you do.
I'd like to know if anyone reading here has experience with a Transit Connect 1.5TDCi to which a Race Chip #2 has been mounted. I have same new vehicle and am considering buying this same chip, for reasons mounting it saves fuel and enhances the engine's performance. Mind, I also did not believe this (less fuel AND more power) but I have ~150KKm experience with a previous diesel vehicle which proved both aspects without a shadow of a doubt, and just in case, never had even a hint of any problems during all this time. I'm not interested in re-flashing of the ECU, for one because this will be erased when the dealer uploads an updated SW version (Ford does this from time to time), and also because there's zero guarantee that this 'improved' SW IS in fact proper/correct, this contrary to buying a chip from a reputable brand (Race Chip is a German product and as said I've got a good experience with it, so would want to try again). Anyone?
Thanks Don - regarding emissions you may have a point however it depends where one lives. You're wrong about 'not running without cat' as it definitely will, actually better than it does now - for obvious reasons, the turbo works on a pressure differential which, by removing the cat, becomes bigger. My hunch is that your hunch is wrong, I think this engine has a single lambda - but want to make sure, and I guess someone here will know, hence me asking here.
Just in case, perhaps I should explain why I want to do this. A catalytic converter in an exhaust system is a lifetime-resistance for an engine (aka airpump) to flow gas through - it costs energy hence power hence fuel to do this, plus it increases the pressure post-turbo somewhat. Removing it has various advantages: more power, earlier and quicker spooling up of the turbo, less fuel consumption and in general a happier engine. I also am aware of the drawbacks of doing this but am not interested in them, them being: more pollutants, more noise, and voiding of warranty. The two former aspects are marginal in any case, but the latter is the reason I'll 'gut' the pipe (leaving it looking exactly the same!) rather than installing a catless section because this will be visible to servicing staff. Any cat of an engine which has only 1 lambda sensor (pre-cat) can be removed without any technical consequences, the system will keep working as is/was. However, with dual lambda's (pre- and -post cat) one needs to pay special attention to the post-cat lambda, one needs to do stuff letting the ECU think the cat is still present ..... hence my question above. As said, if anyone knows pls tell me.
Hi, I'm new here, with a brandnew Transit Connect 1.5TDCi LWB Van - of which I want to remove the catalytic convertor by means of "gutting": taking the actual catalytic converter out of the metal housing it sits in. I know how to do this but need to know how many Lambda sensors this car has, 1 (pre-converter only) or 2 (pre- & post converter). Anybody knows, can help me?