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desert_connect last won the day on March 29

desert_connect had the most liked content!

About desert_connect

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    New Member

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  • Region
    U.S. Southern Plains
  • My. T.C.'s Year
  1. I had the same issue with Thule square bars on my Subaru. The bars made all sorts of whistling racket when they were empty above 50 mph. I used a small 1/4" rope wrapped spirally around the bars about 3" apart for a test and that eliminated the noise. Then switched to 1/8" shock cord I ordered from Amazon with bowline knot loops at each end and they always stay taut. Whisper quiet!
  2. I just followed the instructions in the owners manual, same as I've done in the past with other vehicles. Follow the sequence listed in the required time allotment....done. If you don't get the sequence correct the first time just do it over until it works (doesn't work!). I still have the door open key in ign. chime too and doubt there is an easy way to shut that one off. On my 93 F250 I pulled the ringer module, found the corresponding spade for the door/ign key bell, folded it over and then re-installed the module so the truck would run again. Doing this on a new vehicle these days might upset the computer, but I don't know that for sure. I've read that in the early 2000's around 05' or so on the F series pickups and E vans a person could shut off the perimeter lighting when a door was open themselves by using a similar sequence like the auto door locks. But sadly, Ford seems to have done away with that option.
  3. Me too....all this new tech stuff is supposed to make our life better, but most of us that did not grow up with it find it an annoyance! The first thing I changed (shut off) as soon as I got home was the auto door locks. The second was the seatbelt chiming at me. The day I get the outside perimeter lights changed into "dark mode" I'll be a happy TC owner.
  4. Removing wheel-well covers?

    The white clip stays with the black arm when removing. Slide the tool between the two and pop the clip out of the sheet metal. The white clip looks something like this generic pic below.
  5. Removing wheel-well covers?

    I reach through the access covers and unclip a few rivet clips that can be reached using the tool pictured below. Then starting at the loose area just pop it off one clip at a time by pulling on the panel, some clips you might reach with the tool some not. Works for me and have never broken anything yet removing them twice.
  6. A hitch only has a rating as high as the weakest link or lowest rating. Once a 400# tongue rated hitch is bolted up to a second gen TC van the tongue rating becomes 200#, no matter what the hitch rating is, unless it was less. If whatever is plugged into the hitch extends out further than a normal ball mount then the rating is reduced, ie: twice the distance is reduced by 50%, more than twice it's even less. Viable information is available, the good old boy theory of "if it fits it'll work" disappeared a long time ago. Be safe people.
  7. New 2018 FTC XLT Cargo Van LWB

    Any idea what this microphone is for? Looks like an add on. I bought my 2017 XLT Van w/SYNC new from a dealer with 7.5 miles on it and this was screwed to the lower dash panel. The other odd thing about my TC is the front Euro lic plate screw holes had been used (?).
  8. General Grabber AT2 upgrade

    Your new tires look great! I am curious tho.....in your first post you stated Walmart "would not" mount these tires. So, who installed the tires? At first glance you are correct that the weight rating on the new tires are over. LT tires when used on a SUV, light pickup or van use the full tire weight rating. P tires on the other hand used in the same application (load carrying vehicles, not pass cars) can only use 90% of the rating. The other issue is tire pressure. My van placard states rear tires to be inflated to 48#, while the Grabber AT2 215/65R16 states a max of 45# (info from tirerack) and the OEM Continental's are 51# max. The legalities are too overwhelming!
  9. 2017 TC XLT simple camper

    I found this little 2.5" dia. x 2" H rechargeable (USB) light for my van. Bright enough to read under with 200+ lumens on high, 100 on med and 20 on low and has SOS. On high the battery is rated at 6 hrs and low up to 36 hrs. A magnetic base that can be angled and so far has stayed put while driving around now for a month. Also has a fold out bail and hook to be hung inside or outside and it's rainproof. Great little light for 19$. With this light I may not add anymore permanent lights inside Light link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018V6XMC2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  10. 2017 TC XLT simple camper

    I de-badged the rear doors removing the Transit Connect & XLT. I like the clean simple look w/o.
  11. Locking lugnuts....

    If it were me I'd use a thin wall 12pt socket of the correct size, which there is enough room for. Use a dremel tool or die grinder to remove the points not applicable until you can drive it on with a hammer. It will probably only will take one or two interlocking points with the lug nut to be successful.
  12. Excellent write up on your roof rack install. Thanks!
  13. Correct, the chip inside the key placed in the vehicle will allow the vehicle to be started and drivable. In other words leaving a spare key inside will cancel or turn off the electronic anit-theft function. You can disable the chip inside the key by wrapping the key in aluminum foil.........I did this on both my Subaru and Ford Ranger, tested it and it did the job.
  14. 2017 TC XLT simple camper

    Looks great, Don. A bit of SS really changes the front end looks! I looks like you got a German (?) plate. I found after searching around that I could get a plate with the state flag so I did that.
  15. 2017 TC XLT simple camper

    Thanks, windguy! I did briefly look into re-drilling the license plate holes but looked like my numbers/letters would interfere so I made the sheetmetal adaptor. I don't see a good reason why Ford didn't raise it to begin with. The correct location would not have been any more trouble than the incorrect location. I also had to bend and modify the lic plate light housing clips. They were always popping loose and rattling.