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dbv

T.C. Member
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Everything posted by dbv

  1. Ham Radio Install

    Ok, the day is getting closer. I ordered the NMO and SO-239 mounts, and the tuner, and three single band HF antennas. The mounting brackets are here. I need to know how to delicately pull down the headliner so I can install the three antenna mounts. Is this documented somewhere? It appears the whole shelf (pictured) needs to come out for this, but I could be wrong. I see airbags up there as well. Currently printing the 7000 mounting bracket for test fit, and probably next up is running the power.
  2. I have owned my 2017 TC now for a day, so I haven't had time to research much yet. My intention is to mount my Yaesu FTM-350 radio in the van. I usually run a pair of #4 leads from the battery to the radio main unit, which is located somewhere unobtrusive but with ventilation. Then I need a small cable like a LAN cable that runs from there to the control head/mic package, wherever that might sit, and a coax cable from the main deck to the antenna location which will be an NMO mount. I'm wondering who else on here might be a ham, have done such, and could share pointers. I do have the actual NMO drill/saw for the mount, so that part will be a breeze, but I need to be sure of the location. I think ford makes some sort of guide for this, but I haven't found it yet. Obviously the #4 cables are a BIT of overkill, but I don't want the voltage at the radio to dip. Full power transmit will draw about 8 to 9 amps. Fuses in both leads at the battery. Incidental to that, I have a set of jumper cables that terminate in a large powerpole connector, and I will want to install the matching pigtail at the battery. Locating the head unit will be interesting as well, everything is sculpted in the dash area and of course I don't want the air bags shoving the radio up my nose!
  3. 3D models?

    I am looking for a reasonably accurate 3D model of the 2017 wagon. I've found a lot of near misses, low quality or wrong year/model. Hopefully someone out there knows where one lives?
  4. Ham Radio Install

    Pic of the 350 control head on prototype bracket. Sorry for the bad focus, I'll do better later. The shelf doesn't look like it's going to have any issue with the weight. I'm still adding details, but I wanted to ride around with it in this config before I commit.
  5. Ham Radio Install

    Both radios will be on. The FTM-350 transmits automatically and it can be short intervals between transmissions. If I am transmitting on the 7000 it is fairly likely that the 350 will transmit at the same time. While it won't "hurt" the radios, the lower voltage will cause variation in the output power which can be audible.
  6. Fuel efficiency

    It's all that time sitting at stoplights at 0 MPG that really sucks. Maybe someday they will find an alternative to stoplights, and arrange traffic to minimize stopped time. Even for any sort of EV, stopped time is range being eaten while going nowhere.
  7. Ham Radio Install

    As I get more information, the install evolves. I am looking for info now on clearances between the headliner and the roof. My thinking is that the FTM-350 and IC7000 main decks will live below the drivers seat, and I will need three coax runs up into the roof. Forward position will be NMO for the FTM-350 VHF/UHF antenna. In the middle, where Ford suggests roof vent mounting will be another NMO for the IC-7000 VHF/UHF side. In the back, near the hatch, an SO-239 for the IC7000 HF side. That will work with the Diamond HF antennas on SO mounts, and also with any longwire or loop I might set up when camping. The SO-239 mount in the rear is likely to need some extra clearance, as I will probably do what I did on the Expedition, with reinforcing plates on top and under the roof. Last time it was a large washer on top, and a Ryobi weed eater blade underneath. That let me run the SG-7900 antenna without any real flexing, even though the roof metal on the Expedition was apparently reinforced tinfoil. This might be the most interesting installation of the bunch. I need find a good right angle bulkhead mount for that one. The control head mounts have made a ton of progress though I was away at a conference all weekend and I think I'm ready to print those in ABS for the final (?) version. This week while waiting for the main unit mounting brackets and the control head mount for the 7000, I will mount the 350 head, confirm the main unit mounting positions, and run the separation cables. I wasn't overkilling the power as much as I thought. The 7000 can draw 22A, and the 350 can draw another 12A. #8 would cost me half a volt with both transmitters running. #6 about 0.25V and #4 about 0.125V. I'll need to check out the path for the power wires real soon. So that's my current thinking. Attached, a view of the current version of the FTM-350 mount that will attach under the shelf and above the visor on the drivers side. It's done in OpenSCAD. I can share the files if anyone is interested. The IC-7000 version is just a different front hole pattern, but I won't know that till I have that mounting bracket in hand. It's currently clearing customs in SF. I think I have the downtilt angle on the bracket right, but I will mount it today and drive for a while like that before I commit.
  8. Good-by and Good Luck

    I barely knew ya, but happy trails!
  9. 17 lwb wagon interior lights

    Ok, just knowing they don't need to be CAN helps. I didn't want to have to mess with them twice. I will be SO glad to get rid of the incandescent yellow. They might as well be torches mounted on the walls.
  10. What size/number are the interior lights in the 17 wagon? Does anyone have a recommendation for LED replacements? I just can't stand the yellow incandescent.
  11. When you ran that cable to the back for power, did you run a ground return with it? I've seen problems with vehicles that have rear heat/cooling where corrosion was caused apparently by residual current in the fluids. I hear you on the battery installation. A friend has a car where you have to remove a frame member to get the battery out. That car always draws blood for any service. I don't anticipate going that far, I'm still trying to find the right place for the control heads, but it's likely my radios will live under the front seats. I always run power and ground though, and I fuse both. I set the fuses appropriate to the load, and the wire well beyond, so that there's no possibility of fire if something goes wrong.
  12. A sandwich of blue tape, aluminum tape, and blue tape? Wouldn't mark up the paint, but it would be light tight.
  13. Ham Radio Install

    That's where I got into conflict with CarToys. I want #4. It's their job to do what I want. I ended up doing it myself, and there was no reason that #4 couldn't be done and in the end it was not difficult. I'll start looking at places and spaces. Dad's IC-7000 is sitting here too wanting a spot. I've not worked HF mobile in many years, but I have no doubt that's what he would have wanted.
  14. New Member

    Well, it's a done deal. My Suzuki LX died two weeks ago, with stretched timing chain and tons of wear in the motor despite religious oil changes, so I went shopping. Last night I scored a 2017 connect with 000024 miles on the clock as a "used" car, with full warranty. I did look at the transit, but I decded that employing a stewardess for the passengers and keeping jets from landing on the roof was just too much trouble. I've already more than doubled the mileage, just getting it home! One question: How hard is it to add factory remote start? It wasn't enough to turn me off from the deal, but that's one feature I've wanted for years, and I'm not willing to turn my vehicles over to the amateur hour installers that abound with their kludgy after market devices. I'm also a ham, KC6ETE, -9 on APRS as soon as I figure out power and antenna cable routing. I'd love to hear from other hams about their installs.
  15. New Member

    I will look around, but the last couple shops didn't impress me. I'm an engineer, but I don't always have time or energy to play automotive contortionist anymore. When I was looking into mounting the radio in the XL, I went to car toys with a specific request, Ground and positive routed up to the glovebox, with #4 wires on both, with both lines fused at the battery. The tech tried hard to convince me I didn't need the ground lead, that a #8 would be fine, and then came the capper, he insisted that they don't stock wire on spools, I would have to buy some number of "kits" and use the stock lengths of wire. I also saw them using Scotchlock 557 connectors which I gave up on DECADES ago because they go intermittent over time. So I left, and did the work myself. Plans for the new ride, sort of in order: LED interior lights. (need to know sizes and if they need anything special to not annoy the car computer) Position to mount radio chassis where power and space are available (FTM-350). Position to mount radio control head where I can see it while driving and the mic cord doesn't get in the way. Routing for cable between control head and radio chassis. NMO antenna mounts in roof and coax routing to radio chassis. Aftermarket predictive backup camera and integration into the existing radio (sync) Remote start (before winter certainly) With this somewhat taller ride, I need to find out what is the typical minimum clearance for parking garages. My expedition had a Diamond SG7900 on, but I always had to watch for low hanging trees, and drivethrus were frequently an issue. The antenna folds down, but is still about 8 inches above the roof when folded. I had a nice driving day yesterday, finishing up with about 350 miles on the clock. Both pump/calculator and the car computer tell me I'm getting 25.9 MPG average. That fits well with the claimed city/hwy mileage. Nice performance on climbs, not a sports car, but I have no doubts that when I make my next road trip it won't be struggling on the continental divide.