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Don Ridley

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Everything posted by Don Ridley

  1. 2014 TC Rear Blower Motor

    GBL, I think the Helm version is slightly better. I can tell mine (factory-manual version) has undergone some type of format conversion because there is a slight resolution loss compared to the Helm version. This is not a problem and I am satisfied with the factory-manual version but knowing the difference, I probably would have bought the Helm.
  2. Thanks for the update. Your TC looks great and has proven to be functional and reliable. I won't see 100k miles for a long time.
  3. 2011 Transit Connect XL Coolant Temp Sensor Location

    Does this help? https://parts.lakelandford.com/a/Ford__Transit-Connect/54562347__6479784/RADIATOR--COMPONENTS-COOLING/MB14050.html
  4. Excited owner of new to me 2014 Transit Connect XLT (SWB) wagon

    Welcome and congratulations on your purchase. The 1.6L SWB is indeed rare. I joke that there are probably only 10 of us in California. It is a great little engine and the mileage is impressive for a mini van. Check out the handful of posts for performance and aesthetic upgrades to this vehicle. I added the Flowmaster Turbo Transformer and it works great. Simple to install and does not cause any fault codes and will pass all emissions checks. You will have to quickly learn how to handle the torque steer when the turbo kicks in : ) Ford discontinued the 1.6L TC in 2016. But fortunately the 1.6L was popular in the Ford Focus so parts should not be that scarce. The rarity of our vehicle is confusing. When I ordered mine in 2016 the dealer (in Oklahoma) ordered another with similar specs and they sold it immediately (before it was even received!). Maybe the SWB wagon defies the American habit of buying the largest vehicle available?
  5. Maintenance Manual for 2010 TC

    I bought this for my Gen 2 TC. It is one, big PDF file. Works good enough. Hyperlinks and some electrical connector info not there, but it is very useful. https://www.factory-manuals.com/ford-transit/-connect&28&164
  6. Google search found this: https://www.carmd.com/Tsb/Download/107612/tsb15-0094
  7. Front Wheel Bearings

    Williaty, Does the titanium plate reduce the temperature due to lower thermal conductivity (about 1/2 of steel) or due to the mechanical separation and poor heat transfer?
  8. Is the windshield made by Ford (it will have the logo)? If so, how can it be wrong (a question for the dealer). My 2016 XLT has a rain sensor sensitivity adjustment knob on the right stalk. Go to the Ford ETIS website and get the factory configuration for your TC based on the VIN.
  9. No LED trailer lighting?

    You may get a bulb failure message because the current draw on the LEDs is low.
  10. The FOB has a transmitter that allows the vehicle start. Leaving a fob inside will allow the van to be started by punching the ignition or other criminal means. I want to hide a key under the body but need to find a way to block the disable/enable signal.
  11. Yes, those are the back-up bulbs. A note on LEDs: I have found the cheap Amazon/Chinese T10 LEDs have short lives when used frequently. The LED substrate in these products breaks down when heated. I have re-replaced almost all of the cheap ones in the interior with Phillips. Hopefully they last longer. The cheap ones lasted less than a year. At least the experiment only cost about $15.
  12. I installed the led back-up lights Fifty recommend in one of his posts. They are brighter than the stock bulbs.
  13. Stock Stereo Not Usable For Sub?

    Assuming the amp is OK, you are need to check the wiring and amp in small steps to verify all is correct. 1. Disconnect wires from the amp and connect one set of wires to a spare speaker to verify it works. Fade right and left and verify that works ( sound should fade completely on one fader side). If that works connect the other set and do the same test. 2. If the wiring is ok, configure the amp for 2ch operation. Not mono, not bridged. Connect one set of wires to one amp channel and connect your spare speaker to the output like you are adding another set of speakers. Fade like before and verify that works. Then connect the other set and perform the same test. 3. If all of that works, you are ready to check the bridged and mono amp settings and your sub speaker. The wiring, amp or sub speaker is the problem.
  14. How can you tell if a van has SYNC?

    My 2016 display looks slightly different. It is not as monochrome as yours. My center console has the sync logo near the cigarette lighter.
  15. Stock Stereo Not Usable For Sub?

    I agree this appears to be a mono/ stereo problem. Check the LOC for a mono output setting. Check sub for mono or stereo inputs or configuration. I am sure a Google search will identify this problem and possible solutions.
  16. self contained sub under seat?

    It's nice when we can find a solution. The factory speaker wires are all black so this mistake is easy to make. I installed an Audio Control D4.80 amp/DSP. This is my first real sound system and the DSP computer app has been invaluable. I have tuned the system about 10 times and finally have it about right. I also like the stock look and aftermarket sound. Plus, retaining all stock controls was key. Insulation and sound deadening was key and there is a lot to learn. I finally have a sound system that is too loud. I hope yours is equally enjoyable! Still can't believe I paid more for the speakers than any other component.
  17. Thermozite insulated door panels.
  18. If you are looking for small projects to upgrade your van, sorting through all the posts on this forum can take a lot of time. If you have a 2014-2018 TC all of the changes I have made to my 2016 SWB 1.6L XLT with lift gate Transit Connect will be very similar or exactly the same. Here are 17 easy upgrades I made to my van that will keep you busy for months. I included the associated post when applicable. These are basically in the order of importance or usefulness. MUST-HAVE tools: Set of plastic panel removers ($20 Amazon). One metal one also helps. Service manual. (I know….you can find the needed info here and on the internet so why buy the manual) Heated Seats Rear ceiling LED lights Insulate Door and Panels Internal bike rack Add fuses directly to rear junction box Add high power circuits directly to battery Tint front windows Upgrade sound system using stock head unit Move license plate up Focus Sti engine cover (1.6L turbo only) Add Turbo Transformer turbo boost unknit (1.6L turbo only) Open rear hatch from the inside. Turn on all inside lights with one switch. Install an inner shelf in the center console. Add clear protective film to the top of rear bumper. Glove box light. PDF copy of the service manual Recovery/Tow hook Heated Seats Rear ceiling lights Insulate Door and Panels. No post for this. I used Thermozite and applied with spray adhesive. Do this as you remove panels for other projects. It only takes about 20 minutes per panel and greatly reduces road noise. Also give the doors a solid feel. Internal bike rack Add fuses directly to rear junction box Add high power circuits directly to battery Tint front windows. No post for this. I had it professionally done using 3M Crystalline product. Reduces UV but is not dark. Upgrade sound system using stock head unit. No post for this. I used an Audio Control d4.800 amp with built in digital signal processor. The front speakers were Morel Hybrid. Sub is a 8" Bazooka. Added sound dampening tiles (Second Skin Pro) on doors. System works great and retains all functions of the Ford head unit. Here is a post where I simply upgraded the front speakers. These speakers worked great until I added the amp. Move license plate up. I saw this in another forum post. I used a rivet nut tool to add two new rivets and moved the plat up about 1/2" Focus Sti engine cover (1.6L turbo only). Add Turbo Transformer turbo boost unknit (1.6L turbo only) Open rear liftgate from the inside. Turn on all inside lights with one switch. ALSO HAS INSTRUCTIONS FOR REMOVING DOOR PANELS Install an inner shelf in the center console. Add clear protective film to the top of rear bumper. Use 3M protective film to cover the bumper. Glove box light. No post. Let me know If you need details or info. PDF copy of the service manual (for those who must have their own copy) 18. Recovery/Tow hook.
  19. Sound deadening solution for noisy vans

    I also used butyl tiles (CLD) during a sound system upgrade. I read a lot about them on forums and most interesting is you only need 25% coverage to get good results. This product rated very good and the website explains the coverage requirements. https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/understanding-vehicle-noise So, definitely add CLD tiles and don't worry about 100% coverage. FYI, Ford applies a tar or butyl CLD- type material on the doors and floor already to help reduce noise. You will see patches of rough material on the doors and floor.
  20. This post explains how to remove the door panels. The tweeter cover is attached to the a-pillar cover. Remove it by starting at the top and pry out the ribbed clips with plastic panel removal tool (they will make a cracking sound). Be careful not to damage there air bag. The air bags are disabled when the ignition is off.
  21. Avguy2, I jacked the TC just ahead of the spot marked by an arrow on the pinch weld. Then I put a jack stand next to the jack. Both used the urethane hockey puck type pads.
  22. The black pads on Amazon I bought were made from Chinese rubber and the nasty smell filled the garage (even in a sealed plastic bag). I threw them away and bought a urethane pad: https://m.ebay.com/itm/1-ea-Universal-Orange-Floor-Jack-Pad-Adapter-for-Pinch-Weld-Side-JACKPAD-disk-/332299053307?hash=item4d5e9128fb%3Ag%3A8XYAAOSwmrlUrvgD&_trkparms=pageci%3Aeaf38ca3-adcd-11e7-a8b9-74dbd180225d%7Cparentrq%3A06db537f15f0a990a8237afcfffcd06a%7Ciid%3A19 The urethane was much better.The black rubber would crease and disform if not perfectly aligned.
  23. Would it be easier to connect the HIDs in parallel with the installed H11 bulbs? This will show if the HID ballast is the cause (if the standard bulbs light but the ballast does not). There is a risk of over drawing the module.
  24. The lights are controlled by a module that is probably using pulse width modulation (PWM). You may be seeing the residual capacitance from the PWM signal. This module has been problematic for an unresolved modification to the fog lights:
  25. If the fog lights are PWM, something like this may save you some time... But at a cost. https://gtrlighting.com/gtr-lighting-pwm-interface-module-h11-style-connectors/