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Don Ridley

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Don Ridley last won the day on June 27

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About Don Ridley

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  1. R9 in the fuse block under the hood is the Aux Ignition relay in a TC van. If you have a wagon it is R 2 in the rear fuse block. The relay controls the wipers and other accessories. Here are the troubleshooting instructions for the relay. Aux Ignition relay.pdf
  2. Use Forscan to reset each of the modules involved. Read and clear all DTC s. Relay 9 is for remote start (if I remember correctly). I think you have a software bug, not wiring problem.
  3. You need a scanner to work on these vehicles. Everything is controlled by micro computers (modules). A scanner will show the diagnostic trouble codes (DTC) that have been triggered by the wiper operation. An OBDII reader is not sufficient. Buy an aftermarket scanner or use Forscan and an ELM converter. Attached are the first 6 pages of the wiper troubleshooting from a 2016 service manual. Note the DTCs on the last 2 pages. This is where you need to begin. wiper operation.pdf
  4. Repair Manual

    Sorry, I replied to the wrong post.
  5. Repair Manual

    This program can perform the PATS function. I don't know if it requires two keys. You will need to buy a module to communicate with the TC. This will cost $40-80. So maybe a trip to the dealership is better. https://forscan.org/home.html
  6. Ecoboost blow-off valve w/recirculation

    Here is some info from the Fiesta ST forum. http://www.fiestastforum.com/forum/threads/10660-Full-Recirculation-Bypass-Valve-Boomba-Racing?highlight=Boomba
  7. Ecoboost blow-off valve w/recirculation

    It is difficult to tell if this made a difference in performance. I did NOT drive the TC hard, then modify, and drive hard again. And after adding the BRV of course I drove around and floored the throttle every chance I got so it naturally felt quicker and faster. The turbo flutter sound definitely lets you know when the turbo was running so it is similar to having a loud exhaust: you get audible feedback when you punch the throttle. I have a Focus RS air box so the flutter sound is louder than it would be with a stock air box. I also have a Flowmaster Turbo Transformer that increased the turbo boost pressure from about 15 psi to 19 psi. The Boomba pneumatically actuated valve will perform much better at higher pressures than the electrical solenoid with a return spring so there is a technical advantage that may or may not be necessary. Ford engineers spent a lot of time to make the turbo operation totally silent and maybe this sacrificed some performance. You can make the same argument for softer suspension springs.... Overall I am happy with this modification. It adds to the fun-factor of driving this $25K van that wants to be a sports car. And since I didn't drop $50K on an Audi or $40K for a Subaru I have plenty of disposable income to buy $200 items just for fun. My wife is not impressed with the new noises.
  8. I replaced the factory turbo blow-off valve with an upgraded blow-off valve w/recirculation by Boomba Racing. Boomba makes a valve and installation kit for 2014+ Fiesta ST that works perfectly for TC's with a 1.6L engine. http://www.boombaracing.com/2014-fiesta-st-boost-operated-bypass-valve-full-recirculation/ The Boomba valve still routes the blow-off pressure into the intake so you will not get a loud pressure relief sound when it opens. It does create a turbo compressor surge "flutter" sound when you back off the throttle. Sounds like this (but not as loud) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eqx0AHdj1Wk The installation is easy but you will need an 8mm nut to attach the solenoid valve to the existing stud on the firewall. Here is the solenoid mounted to the firewall (viewed from the engine bay). The throttle response seems better. The turbo flutter sound is kinda cool but barely noticeable at highway speeds. I think it sounds like turkeys.
  9. You can also buy a limited subscription to Ford's diagnostic and programming software. This should work if you have enough time to learn it before your 2 day ($50) or 30 day ($150)subscription expires. https://www.fordtechservice.dealerconnection.com/VDIRS/wds/vcm_retail_renewal_Latest.asp
  10. There is no single ECU any more. Fords have separate modules that perform specifuc functions. My TC has about 10 modules. Fancy F-150s can have 20. Some vehicle configuration changes require changes to multiple modules. Forscan can make these changes IF the programmers have taken the time to reverse engineer them. They have not addressed every function on every Ford worldwide. But many normal changes like auto door locks, headlamp type etc have been addressed. The Focus and TC have the same modules in the programming architecture, but I don't know if they are physically the same. A quick internet parts check would confirm.
  11. The free software Forscan may work. You can change the configuration of a vehicle, including the engine and transmission type, using Forscan. Spend several hours reading a researching the various Ford forums where owners have made changes using Forscan. If you do something terribly wrong you will brick your ECU. You will be on you own so don't expect any help from the forums, especially since it is a TC and not a F-150 (popularity difference). You will have to determine which modules need to be changed and what changes to make. Spend some time on the other Ford forums and search for a similar application. The Focus and Escape are built on the same platform as the TC and will have similar modules and programming architecture. https://forscan.org/ https://forscan.org/forum/viewforum.php?f=1&sid=ccdaf90db0cc7dfd82d78ae9ab5c23a0 This post has some very useful links to tutorials written by other Ford forum members. READ READ READ before you attempt to change the settings in your TC. You can brick your ECU if you are not careful. Just be methodical and make backup copies of all modules.
  12. Ecoboost Mods that Fit From Other Applications

    The Focus RS air box is designed to cover the hole on top when the hood is closed (this is does not work on the TC because the hood is too far away). The big hole is for greater air flow when being tested on a dyno with the hood opened. The smaller opening on the front will draw some air from the engine compartment but it seems it is there just to make the engine and turbo sound louder/better.
  13. Open 2014 Liftgate from Inside?

    I don't know how the previously listed problem was resolved. But here are my thoughts: The BCM will open the rear door latch when it sees a +12V signal go to 0V on one of the inputs. By pressing the door latch button you pull the 12V signal to GND. Since the problem appears to happen when all the doors lock, there is a possibility a brief current surge is pulling down the 12V "open latch" signal due to an electrical problem in one of the other locks or maybe inside the BCM. If this is the problem it can be measured on the proper pin going into the BCM. I would hope the dealer would attempt to capture this possible voltage drop if it exists (a good digital voltmeter can do this). But this will only confirm the BCM is responding to the input. The fix may still reside inside the BCM. I would be more comfortable replacing the BCM if it could be shown the 12V signal never went to zero but the door was opened anyway. Also, check the battery voltage, It should be 14V or higher for normal operation. Good luck.
  14. Global window close is apparently not approved/allowed for the North American market. Your TC is not faulty. You can add this feature and others by using Focccus or more Forscan. The dealership probably won't or can't make this modification.
  15. TC dash screen

    The small screen is the instrument panel cluster (IPC). I doubt it could be swapped without changing some programming in the ECU (actually IPC and BCM modules). BUT..it would be awesome if someone tried. You will be on your own because Ford won't help. Maybe a scrapped Focus can donate one. Who knows if they are even the same size?