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Don Ridley

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  1. This post explains how to remove the door panels. The tweeter cover is attached to the a-pillar cover. Remove it by starting at the top and pry out the ribbed clips with plastic panel removal tool (they will make a cracking sound). Be careful not to damage there air bag. The air bags are disabled when the ignition is off.
  2. Avguy2, I jacked the TC just ahead of the spot marked by an arrow on the pinch weld. Then I put a jack stand next to the jack. Both used the urethane hockey puck type pads.
  3. The black pads on Amazon I bought were made from Chinese rubber and the nasty smell filled the garage (even in a sealed plastic bag). I threw them away and bought a urethane pad: https://m.ebay.com/itm/1-ea-Universal-Orange-Floor-Jack-Pad-Adapter-for-Pinch-Weld-Side-JACKPAD-disk-/332299053307?hash=item4d5e9128fb%3Ag%3A8XYAAOSwmrlUrvgD&_trkparms=pageci%3Aeaf38ca3-adcd-11e7-a8b9-74dbd180225d%7Cparentrq%3A06db537f15f0a990a8237afcfffcd06a%7Ciid%3A19 The urethane was much better.The black rubber would crease and disform if not perfectly aligned.
  4. Would it be easier to connect the HIDs in parallel with the installed H11 bulbs? This will show if the HID ballast is the cause (if the standard bulbs light but the ballast does not). There is a risk of over drawing the module.
  5. The lights are controlled by a module that is probably using pulse width modulation (PWM). You may be seeing the residual capacitance from the PWM signal. This module has been problematic for an unresolved modification to the fog lights:
  6. If the fog lights are PWM, something like this may save you some time... But at a cost. https://gtrlighting.com/gtr-lighting-pwm-interface-module-h11-style-connectors/
  7. Maybe a resistive load of reasonable size (5-10w) will keep the module driver on. You can then add a separate mechanical relay in parallel to power the HIDs. But I still think there will be functional problems with turning the HIDs on every time you turn or signal to turn. You may have to unplug the ALCM.... assuming that does not create a fault condition. Good luck!
  8. Will the HID ignite quicky enough function as cornering lamps? If you wiggle the steering back and forth the cornering lights will wink.
  9. Here are the wiring diagrams. It looks like the cornering lamp module (adaptive front lighting module) is added in parallel with the body control module (normal fog lamp control). I am not sure if/how the AFLM is affecting your HIDs. You may have to disconnect the AFLM. All of these modules can have some sophisticated circuitry that don't react well to added components. Fog lamp wiring.pdf Fog_cornering lamp wiring.pdf Foglamp overviewl.pdf
  10. Does your TC have the cornering fog lamps (turns on each side when you turn the steering wheel)? This function is controlled by a module on the can bus. Maybe that module is causing the problem. Normal fog lamps have a module with an internal relay and no can bus signal, just a voltage from the headlight switch.
  11. Anyone has installed a Race Chip #2

    Many TC owners on this forum are in the USA. The 1.5 TDCI is not available in the US. After 2016 only the 2.5l engine is available in the US.
  12. self contained sub under seat?

    There are several threads about under-seat subs here: http://fordtransit.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=156468&p=1521281&hilit=subwoofer#p1521281
  13. No. The manual does not have any part numbers.
  14. Just a reminder to those new to the forum. The schematics are most useful and are in color. But, I do miss the ease of flipping though pages and writing notes on a page.
  15. Removing this panel on dash

    Pull the panel directly towards the back of the van like you are sliding out a drawer. It is difficult to grab, but it will unclip and pull out.