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Beta Don

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Everything posted by Beta Don

  1. I have two Mitsubishi iMiEV's (electric cars) that came with excellent fog lights with DRL bulbs in them also. I got to looking and found these same assemblies are used in many other Japanese cars (other Mitsu's, Subarus and Hondas) and the fixture is also a bolt in swap for Gen 2 TC's. I bought a pair of the housings on eBay, installed LED bulbs for the DRL's and high power halogens for the fog lights and put them in the TC. I did have to run a new wire for the DRL's and I wired them into an unused fuse location in the under hood fuse panel. Better fog lights, combined with DRL's for about $100 Don
  2. 2.5 breaks in

    I think any gasoline powered vehicle driven predominantly on the highway runs much better than one driven mostly around town - They 'load up' and don't 'clear out' until you get some high speed miles on them True story - I had an old Datsun 240Z that I was very familiar with and I took it to Germany when I was stationed there. I noticed after about 100 miles on the Autobahn doing about 90 mph it suddenly began to run much better - More pep and obviously a good bit more horsepower too. After 50 miles or so around town, that all went away, only to return after another long, fast run down the Autobahn. The difference was very, VERY obvious! We have two electric cars which do 98% of all our in town mileage and the TC pretty much only gets started when we're headed out of state . . . . we keep a trickle charger on it for weeks at a time. We average between 28 and 29 mpg on most trips, depending on the speed and terrain - We came really close to 30 one time on a 50 or 55 mph tankful. Anything driven mostly at the speeds it was designed for works much better, in my experience. Around town, stop and go is really hard on any gasoline powered vehicle - This is where EV's really shine . . . . their around town mileage is much, much better than their freeway mileage Best results are always driving something the way it was designed to be driven - The opposite of an EV around town? An empty pick-up truck with only the driver aboard . . . . tons of those around here! Don
  3. Count your blessings . . . . and then count them again Your Ford dealer is one in a thousand - The two dealers nearest me know next to nothing about TC's and after several years now, it appears they intend to keep it that way. They just don't care, plain and simple Don
  4. turn signal clicker needs to be louder

    I've driven in London, Berlin, Paris, Madrid, San Juan, Tokyo, Manila, Seoul . . . . even Riyadh, but never in LA or NYC - I'm not crazy!! Believe me, I WOULD take a cab! Don
  5. I think *personal opinion* that the only real problem is that Ford is touting the 6F35 as a '100K maintenance free' transmission and people are finding that it's fairly hard on it's transmission fluid. If you buy a new one and service the transmission every 25 to 30K I would be very surprised if you ever experience a problem Don
  6. Mine are yellow plastic 'Rhino Ramps' - "Another Blitz built product, made in the USA". I bought them at Wal Mart years ago. They come in several colors and are rated at 12,000 pounds per pair - Not bad for polyethelene!! The newer versions are a little fancier and a bit more costly - I think I paid $25 for mine http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rhino-Automotive-Car-Trailer-Ramps-Lift-Service-For-Low-Profile-Oil-Change-Tool-/172864808065?hash=item283f8ba481:g:HM8AAOSwBT9Zuh4M Don
  7. turn signal clicker needs to be louder

    Most newer cars (anything made in the last 8 or 10 years) have what's called a 'lane change feature' - You touch the turn signal stalk for the direction you want but don't press it hard enough that it's 'clicked on' . . . . just touch it and release it and that gives you three flashes of your turn signals and it shuts itself off. You'll never be driving for miles and miles with your signals flashing ever again! Don't feel badly - I'll bet 50% of drivers don't know their car has this feature, so you're not alone - I just pointed it out to my brother in law a few weeks ago and he knew nothing about it. You can tell those who do . . . . their signals flash exactly three times whenever they change lanes Don
  8. I have a set of the poly ramps and use them for oil changes - The air dam clears them fine. I have no idea if the steel ones he's asking about will work or not Don
  9. turn signal clicker needs to be louder

    . . . . or at least it was in a '55 Chevy On most 'modern' cars, there is no 'clicker' and the computer flashes the turn lights . . . . . you won't find any bi-metal mechanical flasher anywhere. You can't add trailer lights (without installing a special circuit) because the computer doesn't like the additional power the trailer lights draw. The sound is also computer generated. On my 2012 Mitsubishi, you (actually, the dealer can) choose from 3 different sounds . . . . . but you still can't adjust the volume - It's fixed If you could make it louder, there would need to be some way to make it softer too, as it's already louder than some of us would like Don
  10. I agree. No way I could ever get that sort of service from either of the dealers near me. "Can't be done"and "If it didn't come equipped that way from the factory, you can't add anything now" are their favorite answers to my questions - Then you go on-line and discover that it's just that they don't know . . . .. and don't care Don
  11. Got 25K on the wagon now and it's time for a trans fluid change Was intending on sticking with Ford Mercon LV, but for nearly the same price you can get a full synthetic ATF, such as Castrol Transmax which is rated for use in modern transmissions which require the lighter fluid, like the Mercon LV I was thinking that instead of the 'standard' 13 quart exchange that since I would be switching to synthetic, I might go one change more and use 16 quarts which should get me closer to a 100% exchange What do the 'experts' here think? - Thanks! Don
  12. Switching Gen 2 Trans to Synthetic ATF

    Google says it's 9320.5679 miles Whatever - It's lots closer than 9,600miles Don
  13. Switching Gen 2 Trans to Synthetic ATF

    Yes, that post was a great help - Thank you! I'm going to do it over a period of several days. Drain & refill once, drive it 10 or 15 miles and do it again the next day. Since I'm switching to synthetic I think I'll eventually be doing 5 separate drains to get me to at least a 95% exchange. Then I'll do a drain and refill each time I do an oil change at 10,000 miles. That should keep it fresh enough without having to do another full exchange every 25K Don
  14. I really *like* the digital readout of what gear I'm in when using the Select Shift mode - How hard would it have been for them to make that readout there all the time? Bet it would be nearly impossible to change anything to make it happen now Don
  15. Switching Gen 2 Trans to Synthetic ATF

    Actually, 15,000 km's is 9,315 miles Don
  16. Switching Gen 2 Trans to Synthetic ATF

    I'm doing it at home . . . . and with only 25,000 miles on the van - I don't expect to see any 'dirty' ATF come out. My only concern is to eventually get it switched over 100% from Mercon LV to a full synthetic. I'll settle for 95% for now and drain and refill another 4 quarts when I do my next oil change at 30,000 The 6F35 has been used in many Ford vehicles for several years and it does not the best reputation . . . . and it's VERY expensive to repair/replace once it's out of warranty. No filter you can change and I really don't care for that. Personally, I believe the "100K service" on this transmission is all marketing hype which helps sell vehicles. From what I've read, there is a significant percentage of these transmissions which will never make it to 100K. I read that the trans is quite hard on it's fluid and I wonder how much Ford actually saved by NOT installing fully synthetic ATF from the factory. I suppose they have a fairly high confidence that 90 something percent of them will make it to the end of the warranty with LV and no service and that's probably the number the bean counters were looking at The only other automatic my wife and I have any experience with was a mid 90's Mitsubishi that I bought her and it's trans had a questionable reputation at best, but it did have a drain plug installed in the pan and I drained 3 quarts and refilled at every other oil change (6,000 miles) and that trans made it to about 125K when the vehicle was hit in the rear and totaled. I did install an aftermarket oil cooler on that car when I first bought it as well I would like to be confident that the 6F35 in our TC will make it to 175 to 200K reliably but I don't have that sort of faith in this trans, so I'm adopting a pretty aggressive maintenance schedule and switching to synthetic. Won't cost me that much in the long run (compared to a repair) and it's only a little more time and trouble . . . . . and I'll feel lots better about it Don
  17. Switching Gen 2 Trans to Synthetic ATF

    Supposedly the 6F35 holds 9 quarts total and a little more than 4 quarts drains when you pull the plug. I bought 16 quarts which will do 4 changes, but to get to a 95% pure synthetic level, I'll need 4 more quarts so I can do 5 changes The good news is . . . . once I have it switched over to full synthetic, I can just do a quick and easy 4 quart drain and refill each time I do a 10,000 mile engine oil change and my transmission should last a long time! Don
  18. Switching Gen 2 Trans to Synthetic ATF

    That's what I bought Oddly, it was $17 per quart from Amazon but only $5 and change from Advance Auto, so I got 16 quarts Don
  19. I replaced the headlights on my 2014 TC today. First, as a credit to Ford (and probably because our TC's were all built in Europe) every stock halogen bulb in my wagon was made by Osram, which in my book is the best overall OEM bulb of them all. My standard upgrade on my other cars has always been to order me a new set of higher performance Osram's straight from Germany - Beware of ordering them from China and if you buy them locally, check to see that they're not from China. Like many other brand names, there are both a genuine article and Chinese knock-offs which are always inferior. The ones that came out of the car say 'Germany' right on them Fifty150 ordered a set of Street Cat LED H11's from Amazon and they are unlike any LED replacements I've ever seen. First, they came with a 'driver' which accepts any voltage from 9 VDC to 36 VDC and outputs exactly the correct stabilized voltage and current for the LED chips, no matter how much the input voltage may vary. This has got to make for both a brighter, more even light and a longer lasting bulb. Second, his replacements have a built-in 8,000 RPM fan which cools the LED chips. Again, this has got to increase the life of the bulbs IIRC he got a closeout price on the 2015 version rated at 4,000 lumens and 6000K color which is bright white, but not too far into the blue spectrum. A standard halogen bulb is around 1,350 to 1,500 lumens and the color is quite yellow, usually around 3000K. I bought the 2016 version of the Street Cat H11's which are now advertised to use Philips brand chips and they are now rated at 4,800 lumens or a bit more than triple the amount you get from an equivalent H11 halogen bulb. This isn't to say that you'll have triple the light down the road because other factors limit the useful light, but they are noticeably brighter . . . . and whiter A link to the ones I bought - https://www.amazon.com/Headlight-Conversion-Upgraded-version-Philips/dp/B01LXO0W17/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1481579843&sr=8-2&keywords=street+cat+h11 They are not a 10 minute install, IMO - We spent at least an hour in total, but then I was changing both high and low beams. The space inside the dust cap is small and my fingers are large, but I managed to get them inserted correctly and my wife was able to twist them to lock them in the headlight. I mounted the little driver boxes nearby with double stick trim tape. Like Fifty150 I left the dust caps off - I think you could probably cut a notch in them to allow the wires to come out (necessary because the driver won't fit inside) and get the dust caps back on, but with them off the ventilation must be better and the LED assembly with fan is rated as waterproof For the high beams, which are 65 watt H-9's I opted to replace those with PIAA Xtreme White halogens. *Supposedly* these give you 120 watts of light from just 65 watts of power which makes it sound like they are almost twice as bright (I take that with a few grains of salt) and they are 4150K in color, which is very white for a halogen bulb. These are popular replacements because they are so powerful and so white, but in low beam applications many reviewers report they only last for a year or two. I don't think I would choose them for your low beams (They cost about the same as the LED's anyway) but for high beam use, they should last a long time. We'll see. They *are* quite white . . . . nearly as white as the LED's to the naked eye The LED's do light up the road much better - Low beams don't appear to reach much (if any) farther than before - It does look like I could raise them just a bit and I probably will, but the amount of light on the road in front of me is noticeably increased. The high beams are just . . . . WOW! They really do reach farther and are much brighter than before. They light up everything! I'll get some pictures from out on the road and post them in the next few days - So far I'm very happy with the upgrade. Probably the best $100 I've spent on it so far Don
  20. Switching Gen 2 Trans to Synthetic ATF

    I'm sure it would be pretty clear after 12 quarts - What I'm concerned with is getting as much of the conventional ATF out and as close to 100% synthetic in there as I can I bought 16 quarts of the Castrol Transmax full synthetic for $88 at Advance Auto - Think that's cheaper than the Mercon LV from Ford Don
  21. Power Sliding Door?

    Welcome to the forum! There are companies who specialize in converting vans for wheelchair use including installing powered folding ramps who could do your door conversion - Even a town as small as Biloxi MS has a couple of them. Shouldn't be too hard to find one near you Don
  22. If he were to attempt to recharge four deep cycle Optima batteries in parallel directly from the alternator, a 'proper sized wire' would be VERY large - Those batteries would probably like more than 50 amps each if they were deeply discharged and the wire size would be larger than the vehicle's battery cables Since he wants 120 volt recharging capability which would require a battery charger, IMO it would be simpler and safer to plan on a set-up where an inverter powers the battery charger and that would limit the current to a safer level - Whatever size battery charger he buys. A 20 or 30 amp charger powered by an inverter could be done with much smaller wire sizes Don
  23. Locking easy fuel plug ?

    I agree - Even if you have 'all the right stuff' it's next to impossible to siphon fuel out of ANY modern vehicle. Much simpler (and quicker) for a thief to drill a hole in the plastic tank and let it run into a bucket Don
  24. . . . . or, you could buy an OEM radio just like the one you have now on eBay for probably less than $50 When folks 'upgrade' the OEM radios they pull out are worth very little, not matter how high tech they are because there are probably 20X as many people upgrading as there are people looking for older OEM radios Don
  25. Locking easy fuel plug ?

    Maybe install a keyed lock on the fuel filler door? Don