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Beta Don

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Everything posted by Beta Don

  1. I would imagine much of the problem is that these are made in Spain, so factory delays are harder for the dealer to 'see' and then they have a long boat ride, probably a significant delay at US Customs (Ford and customs have been going round and round about TC's since the very first one was imported) Then you need a train ride and eventually your dealer will have to schedule you a slot for him to do the pre delivery and then the delivery - They cover the cars with self sticking plastic to keep the wheel dust from the railroad cars from getting stuck in the paint which will then make your car look like it's rusting. With all the above, it's got to be next to impossible for anyone to tell you when you will actually get your car. It's a much easier project when you order a car made in the USA Another large part of the problem though, is the misnomer called "Ford Customer Service". I have never owned any vehicle that the dealers know less about than Ford's Transit Connects and the really sad part is, nobody at any of the dealerships I've dealt with wants to be bothered to learn anything about them either Don
  2. Transmission fluid change

    On my 2014, four exchanges took 16 3/4 quarts. I switched from the OEM Mercon LV to Castrol Transmax Full Synthetic Multi Vehicle which is Ford Approved for all Mercon LV applications I did it with the front wheels on ramps and the first dump was 4 1/4 quarts, so I filled with 4 quarts, ran it for 10 minutes shifting through the gears and dumped again . . . . and 3 more fills. After the 16th quart went in, I jacked up the back end so it was level with the front and it took another 3/4 ths of a quart before fluid began to trickle out the 'check hole'. New fluid goes in much faster if you remove the plug on top which acts as an air vent - Otherwise it takes 2 or 3 minutes for each quart to go in, with an occasional messy 'burp'. My funnel made a leak proof connection with the rubber vent fitting My old fluid didn't look all that great after only 25,000 miles - More brown than red. It didn't small that bad, but it wasn't nearly as pretty as the new stuff. I was a little surprised . . . . I thought with so few miles, the old stuff would still look pretty much new. I'll go 50K with the synthetic and change it again Don
  3. 2017 TC XLT simple camper

    Yes, it's German. I found a guy on eBay (from Poland I think) who will make you any plate you want from most any European country, so since I have a 2014 TC XLT, that's what I went with. Think it cost about $25 and he had it shipped here in ten days or so The SS grille kit was $50. Both are installed with double faced tape Don
  4. 2017 TC XLT simple camper

    I put the chrome (stainless actually) dress up kit on the grille too Don
  5. 2017 TC XLT simple camper

    I put a Euro plate on the front of mine too - Looks like it was designed for it, doesn't it? (It actually was) Don
  6. How can you tell if a van has SYNC?

    There is a website where you put in your VIN and it tells you everything that came on the vehicle. I don't have a link to it, but when I checked out mine shortly after I bought it, I learned all sorts of things about the van that I didn't know Don
  7. How can you tell if a van has SYNC?

    Same radio that came in my 2014 - It's the next to cheapest option of them all (the only thing cheaper doesn't have the CD) and no Sync for sure - If you did have Sync, there would be a badge bragging about it ;-) The phone button is working as designed - When your phone rings, press the button and the stereo goes silent I replaced mine with a Pioneer Nav unit and now I do have Bluetooth and all the bells and whistles Don
  8. Stock Stereo Not Usable For Sub?

    The fact that the sub amp works fine when you have the balance set all the way to the right or left, but not when you have it set balanced in the middle pretty much tells you all you need to know. Try running the sub off of the left or right channel ONLY and see what that gets you Don
  9. Stock Stereo Not Usable For Sub?

    I *think* I know what's happen here - I assume your sub is mono and not stereo? Wiring a mono sub to a stereo radio, you need to run the sub off either the right channel output or the left channel. When you wire it into one wire from each channel, all the sub will 'see' is the difference between the channels - If the two stereo channels are outputting the same basic signal, the sub doesn't get any input at all, as there's no difference between them. When you shift the stereo off balance, side to side, you're creating a difference between the left and the right and the mono sub sees that difference and amplifies it Hope this helps, Don
  10. leather seat covers

    There are 'seat covers' and then there is seat reupholstery which is what I think he's talking about - He doesn't want to cover over what he has . . . . I think he wants to take off the OEM upholstery, install seat heaters and then install new leather upholstery I did this to my Miata many years ago - Quite a project! I bought a set of Katzkins for about $500 which fit the seats perfectly and it looked better than factory stock when I got them on, but it was quite a job. I think you get what you pay for when it comes to aftermarket leather upholstery and a set to do the front buckets in a TC might run you a good bit more than the $500 I paid 15 years ago IMO, swapping the OEM upholstery which attracts dog hair for leather which I doubt would look good for very long when the dogs claws scratched them up *might* be an expensive mistake, but to each his own. I've never had a dog in any of my vehicles, but if I owned one that I regularly took with me in the van I think I would be looking for something more practical than leather Don
  11. Door Locks

    This is pretty much the standard on most newer cars . You still have a key slot on the front door handles, but it's just an electric switch . . . . you still need the battery to lock and unlock anything. I believe it's also part of the anti-theft system too. If you don't have a key programmed to the car, the doors wouldn't unlock even with a key Don
  12. Comfort and noise on long trips?

    Those look like the OEM 2014 - 2017 factory alloy wheels to me, 16 x 6.5 http://www.hubcaphaven.com/p/15596/aly3975-ford-transit-connect-wheel-silver-painted-dt1z1007c.html Don
  13. I think I know why You've been at this since April of 2016 and it's still not running. While it can be done by someone with the right skills, obviously it's not as simple as it looks. Not everyone can do without their vehicle for almost 2 years while they work to get it finished up and running and when you consider the time and labor involved, getting a rebuilt auto tranny installed is probably still the cheaper way to go That said, I LOVE these sorts of projects and I hope you get your immobilizer issues solved quickly and get it on the road There's another thread here where someone is doing the same thing to a Gen 2 (actually, he's paying someone to do the swap) and it's turned into quite a project too and I don't think they have it on the road yet either. These things always seem to end up a lot more complicated than they look at first glance and sometimes they never get done . . . . and the parts end up sold to someone else These swaps were certainly much simpler 30 years ago when you didn't have to deal with computers and CAN Busses - Almost any halfway capable shade tree mechanic could swap a Mustang or Camaro from an automatic to a manual in one easy weekend . . . . and it would start and run first turn of the key Don
  14. Wheel Size Question

    Shouldn't be too difficult to install some longer wheel studs on the rear Don
  15. Taurus rims and TPMS

    I assume all the Gen 2's have sensors - My 2014 definitely does. The Focus wheels I bought came with the stems in them, minus the sensors, so swapping in my OEM sensors was as simple as removing 1 screw to get the sensor off the stem and putting them onto the stems already in the Focus wheels with that same screw. I didn't see any special 'notch' in the Focus rims which made me think you couldn't put sensors in any alloy wheels. Modern alloys *do* have a chunk of aluminum missing near the sensor, but it doesn't have anything to do with making room for the sensor - I'm 99% sure it's just that they left out a chunk about the same weight as the sensor to make it easier to balance the wheel with the sensor in it Don
  16. Obviously, it would have to be a 2014 or newer - I don't know about a newer one (2016 or'17) but I would guess they would probably work. I think it's more likely you'll find a '14 or a '15 in a yard. I would ask for anything '14 thru '17 and then go check it out in person to insure it fits correctly. If you're having one shipped in from out of state, you may have to take your chances and hope for the best Don
  17. Don't know of anyone else here on the forum using their TC as a taxi, so you will probably be the 'test case' as to how long things will last and what maintenance tips will improve longevity Good luck and please keep us posted! Don
  18. Removing wheel-well covers?

    Duh! - I didn't read that right, did I? The fender liners are not that hard to remove. Once you take off the tire/wheel, it's only a few Torx head screws to get the liners out of there. I've taken out both of mine replacing the fog lights with new units which are both DRL's and fog lights Don
  19. Removing wheel-well covers?

    Are they different from the wheel covers on my 2014? They make a tool just for this - A flat pry bar to get them off and a rubber hammer for putting them back on https://www.walmart.com/ip/STEELMAN-75031-Hub-Cap-Remover/39587012?wmlspartner=wlpa&adid=22222222227027841724&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=59329795848&wl4=pla-84332961168&wl5=9014056&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=39587012&wl13=&veh=sem Don
  20. I'm sure it's part of the theft protection system - Used to be you could use a slide hammer, screw it into the key switch, yank it out and start the car with a screwdriver. Now, the computer does it all and it won't do anything unless the computer recognizes your key Also, there's no possibility of you running the starter motor when the engine is running (holding the key in the start position a second or two to long) because the computer won't let that happen. The computer does virtually everything in these cars anyway, so what's one more? Don
  21. Taurus rims and TPMS

    Notched for TPMS? Not sure what this means, but my OEM steel wheels had no 'notch' and I didn't have any problem switching my OEM sensors over to the Focus wheels I put on the van. Don't see why you couldn't buy a second set of sensors and install on your new Taurus wheels Don
  22. Not sure I can help with your problem, but I do know the 2014 and later TC's start differently from earlier cars When you turn the key, it doesn't send 12 volts to the starter solenoid like it does on most cars - The computer actually starts the engine. You can momentarily turn the key to the start position for just 1/10th of a second and the computer takes over from there and does the rest. It engages the starter for long enough to start the engine and it releases the starter when the engine fires . . . . not at all like an 'ordinary' car. I haven't tried it, but I suspect if you turned the key to the start position and held it there, the starter would quit running anyway once the engine starts - It's controlled by the computer and not the key switch I think your issue probably does have something to do with the 'No Key Detected' indication you're getting - I think when that's solved, your problems will likely be over Don
  23. Those are amazing little fridges, aren't they? I have experience with using them on several boats. I designed and built electric systems on probably a dozen offshore sailboats for customers over the years. Wind, solar, deep cycle storage (predominantly using flooded golf cart batteries and sometimes L16's) with inverters and charge controllers. I set up the fridge on my last boat to run off a pair of AGM golf cart batteries I bought from Sam's Club. If there was anyway to squeeze them under the hood, I would have a pair of those on my TC. Golf cart batteries are the biggest bang for the buck in deep cycle storage by far I would set your cut off voltage to 'High' (11.8 volts) because using 10.1 will kill your battery and 11.4 will still do it great harm. I don't see why 'Medium' (12.2 volts) would hurt anything for the restart voltage Repeated discharges to 50% will certainly shorten the life of any flooded starting battery - It causes the plates to shed material which falls to the bottom of the case and will eventually short out the plates, but AGM batteries don't suffer this same fate, so I'm not at all worried about an occasional 50% discharge on my Duracell AGM. Many people buy this same battery for use in boats which run all sorts of things, including fridges, for several hours with the engine shut off. I like that the manufacturer thinks enough of it to actually honor a three year full replacement warranty My experience with buying batteries online isn't good. Hardly anybody wants to hear from you when you have an actual problem . . . . whatever went wrong must be YOUR fault and they don't really care if you're a repeat customer or not, whereas buying locally you are dealing with the same people you would be returning it to should there be a problem. Even Amazon doesn't talk to you if a battery you buy from them fails - They refer you to the manufacturer and your odds of getting satisfaction there isn't very good Don
  24. The Segway is listed for 140 watts, 120 volts. It actually measures 110 watts when charging, so two of them would be 220 watts which calculates to about a 20 amp draw from the battery for the inverter when the engine isn't running. The battery doesn't seem to mind that for an hour or so - Don't think I've ever left it running for more than about 90 minutes. I also carry a very powerful, but tiny 120 volt air compressor which will actually fill a car or trailer tire in just a minute or two and I run from the inverter too, usually without the engine running. It's very handy to use with a 50 foot extension cord - You can reach just about any tire. Nobody makes a good 12 volt compressor which actually pumps much air, probably because it would need 40 or 50 amps to be able to do the job and you can't plug that into an accessory socket The Odyssey isn't much more powerful than the stock battery. It's very expensive and nobody but Odyssey warrants them. Several users on Amazon reported failures within just a year or so and Odyssey blamed the failure on everything BUT the battery and refused to honor their warranty. One guy said he went back to an Optima because they had never given him any problems Other folks seem to love them. To each his own I guess. I like my 3 year, no hassle, free replacement warranty from Sam's Club. A warranty is only as good as the company that stands behind it Don
  25. First, they haven't sold an NiMH powered Segway since 2005 - Ours are all lithium powered and each Segway uses a pair of 75 volt, 5.2 AH batteries (390 WH and $900 EACH new) so I'm charging 4 of those - 1560 WH total. The built in Seg charger isn't very powerful - It takes 8 to 12 hours to recharge if the Lithiums are fully discharged, but a full charge lasts for 20 miles or more so we seldom ever get them much below 50% DoD. It's not at all unusual for a lithium Seg battery to last 10 years or more, which is good, considering the replacement cost Second, if you read my post above, the reason for getting the more powerful AGM battery was so we could leave them in the van charging while we stopped for gas or lunch - The rest of the time, recharging is done while we're driving The other reason for changing to an AGM is because it's one heck of a job to change the battery in a Gen 2 TC and since I already had the 3 year old battery out while making the high current connection to the battery bus bar, I wanted to put something in there which (hopefully) will outlast 2 or 3 stock batteries, because I don't want to have to mess with it again. A bit of advice for the average owner - When your TC needs a new battery, buy it from some place which offers free installation As I said, I'll be sure to report back here when the AGM quits on me, so everyone else will know not to waste their money on an AGM replacement for the anemic (and way overpriced) Ford BXT-96R . . . . or, if it lasts 6 or 8 years, we'll all know it was a very good idea Don