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Beta Don

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Beta Don last won the day on April 8

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About Beta Don

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    U.S. Mississippi Valley
  • My. T.C.'s Year
  1. I have 3 electric cars - Two 2012 Mitsubishi iMiEV's and a 2017 Chevy Volt Bought the first Mitsu new 6 years ago in May of 2012 for $30K less the government $7.5K tax credit. Bought the second one two years later when it came off lease for $8700 . . . . and it had just 3,900 miles on it - The second one had all the bells and whistles and a sticker of $34K when it was new. This shows the alarming depreciation many EV's face as soon as you drive them off the lot. Both these cars were still supported by the factory, with a 10 year, 100K battery warranty as well as extended warranties on the EV drive system The Ford Transit Connect EV was never really a 'Ford' as they never warrantied any part of it - It was Azure Dynamics baby right from the start. The $57.5K sticker meant there weren't going to be many private owners - It was aimed at business fleets. With a 28 Kw battery giving you 50 to 75 miles of range, you would have to put 200K or more on it to recoup the difference in price from the ICE version - You almost could have bought 3 trucks from Ford for the price of one electric one Should you buy this one? That depends on what you can do with it and what they want for it. Replacing the battery would be cost prohibitive, but Lithium EV batteries can last a very long time, depending on the software and how easy or hard on the battery it allows the vehicle to be. I suspect the Transit is pretty conservative, as it gets about the same range from 28Kw of battery as our Mitsu's get from just 16Kw. I personally wouldn't be too worried about the battery, but there could be other parts of it that might cause problems later on - Azure Dynamics built the entire drive train If I had a small business which could make good use of a vehicle able to do 50 or 60 miles each day *and* I could buy the vehicle for $10K or less, I would probably take a chance on it . . . . but you are very correct that it's a gamble and that any major fault could leave you with some very expensive scrap metal - Oh, you could sell the battery bank to someone wanting to build their own EV and get maybe half your money back - You could probably sell the whole van in not running condition and get most of your money back . . . . assuming you found the 'right' buyer and you didn't pay more than $10K for it when you bought it If they're asking more than $10K, I don't think they're going to find many buyers. If Azure was still in business and if it had a warranty still in effect for a few more years, it *might* be worth $15K, but as it is now, it's a real gamble - If the price is 'right' it might be a gamble worth taking, but it all depends on your needs and the asking price, IMO Our Mitsubishi's have been completely problem free (other than 3 factory recalls) for 6 years now and we're really glad we bought them both. Hopefully we'll still be driving them 6 or 8 years from now - There won't be ANY warranty by then, but we'll have got our value from then by then too Don
  2. I added DRL's in the Fog lights - I didn't really want them in the headlights anyway There are several cars which use nearly identical fog light housings as the Gen 2 TC's, but have DRL bulbs in them. I had a spare one from one of my 2012 Mitsubishi iMiEV's and I found that some Subaru models used the same housing (as well as a few Fords) so I ordered an extra housing on eBay and installed them - Factory fit using the same mounting screws as the OEM housings. I used an LED in the DRL position and wired them to an under hood fuse which is hot anytime the engine is on. They're down low, very bright, I still have my fog lights and am quite happy with the result Don
  3. Wouldn't be very useful as a wagon if you couldn't roll the back windows down . . . . would it? Don
  4. Looking to get a diesel

    What transmission(s) are offered with the diesel in Europe? Any rumors about which one(s) will be offered in the '19 USA version? Don
  5. Looking to get a diesel

    Not to worry! - The owner of an EV can't do any harm to the battery. The car's computer won't let you, which is why they do last so long You cannot discharge it to 5% nor can you recharge it to 100%. EV's employ a very conservative charge.discharge protocol. If you want a Lithium battery to last 3X as long as it otherwise would, you just limit the charge voltage to 95% of absolute maximum . . . . and if you want it to last 10X as long, limit it to 90%. The discharge voltage is limited even more than that, so no matter what the owner does, the technology is there to ensure a long life Our 6 year old Mitsubishi EV's are used exactly as you mentioned. Since we're retired and have no regular commute, we do mostly run errands with them and recharge a couple times per week - No battery degradation that we can measure in the first 50,000 miles. The total maintenance over the first 6 years has been one new interior air filter replacement and one set of wipers. Now that the tires are 6 years old, they'll need to be changed sometime this year Don
  6. Looking to get a diesel

    Meanwhile, Jiquay can quit worrying about the rare earth magnets - They are neither 'rare' nor are the materials they're made from https://www.magnetsource.com/blog/rare-earth-magnets-what-isnt-in-a-name/ Don
  7. Looking to get a diesel

    I think everyone who has never owned an EV or a hybrid is overly concerned with "what will changing the battery cost?" It's pretty rare this ever turns out to be something you needed to worry about. Most are warrantied for 10 years, 100,000 miles because the manufacturers know they'll very seldom have to make good on the warranty. There is a 2012 Chevy Volt with 435,000 miles on it that the guy commutes 110 miles each way 5 days a week with and he's still going about the same number of miles twice a day on his original battery . . . . after 4,000+ recharge cycles. His lifetime mpg is 59.25 https://www.greencarreports.com/news/1112485_2012-chevy-volt-has-now-crossed-400000-miles-range-remains-steady Hybrid is all about saving gas - Getting back the energy you usually waste when friction braking. We have a 2017 Volt which gets 42 mpg when running on gas alone and that's because it also uses a bit of battery power to go up hills and then recoups that power going down the other side. Overall lifetime 'mileage' on some hybrids us upwards of 60 mpg when the combined number is calculated - Higher if they're driven more in the city and less on the freeway I like diesels too - Have a turbo Yanmar in my boat and a 3 cylinder Kubota in my garden tractor. For me, it's all about the best power plant for the job and when you have something that makes a complicated, expensive, prone to repair automatic transmission no longer necessary, that's a BIG plus. Our two Mitsu BEV's have the motor directly coupled to the axle with a 7 to 1 reduction (you can hold the entire trans-axle in one hand) and can go from zero to 80 mph without changing gear ratios . . . . and don't need a reverse, or a clutch To each his own - There's something out there for everybody to love Don
  8. Ramps modification

    Mine are the original Rhino Ramps, probably 20 years old. Molded plastic, rated at 12,000 pounds with a 17 degree angle they raise the car up 6 1/2 inches. A little rubber pad on the underside leading edge grips the floor when the tire first contacts the ramp so it doesn't try to slide forward They used to be cheap - $25 per pair or so, but of course that was in last century dollars http://allgaragefloors.com/5-best-car-ramps/ Don
  9. Ramps modification

    I have a set of the molded plastic ramps and my 2014 SWB goes up them without the front air dam touching. I've had them for many years and some cars with even lower front lips fit fine Don
  10. Looking to get a diesel

    Diesel engines have a lot going for them - Always have. They are especially good for constant RPM uses where multi-speed transmissions aren't needed, like boats and trains, heavy farm machinery and especially generating electricity. There are still many places where much of the electricity is generated using efficient single low speed diesel engines - Hawaii is one For transportation a diesel still makes some sense for heavy long haul trucks, but even for them the new rules are making diesels more problematic and we're going to be seeing more and more battery powered trucks in the near future - Even for long haul trucks. Emissions systems and regulations are making diesels less practical. For smaller vehicles, IMO, time and emissions have pretty much passed them by. You'll be buying yesterday's technology if you buy a 2019 van with a small diesel in it. For an around town grocery getter, a BEV or a hybrid makes much more sense . . . . and she won't get that smelly diesel on her going to church clothes The days of cheap diesel fuel behind us too - It will never be as cheap as gasoline again here in the USA, and as more regulations are put on it, the cost will only go up. Justifying a diesel because it's cheaper to run than a gas or especially a hybrid vehicle is gone too. Even a new Chevy Volt gets 40+ mpg running on gas alone and if you compare the total cost, using both gas and electric, it's much cheaper to run than any diesel If she liked her mini-van, she would love a small hybrid van which can do many of her trips not burning any fuel at all. You can forget about transmissions because electric vehicles with their high torque motors don't need to shift gears . . . . one less expensive part to fix or replace I can understand coming from an old diesel rabbit and then a newer TDI why you think you want to stay a 'diesel guy' for as long as you can, but I think your past positive experiences are probably coloring your judgement going forward. Times have changed . Is she really (be honest now) a 'diesel gal' too . . . . or would she rather drive something more practical? Don
  11. Should I change transmission fluid

    I change every fluid in any used vehicle I buy shortly after the purchase, assuming the vehicle has been cared for like most people care for their cars, which is to say, not at all I waited to change the trans fluid in my new to me 2014 until it hit 25,000 miles and I'll be doing it every 25,000 from now on. I would venture to guess that for RWD cars with a rear differential, 90% of them have never had the gear oil changed - Probably a safe guess TC transmissions don't have a very good reputation for making it to 100K without a trans fluid flush, let along 150K. If I had just bought an older one, getting that done would be my first priority, but I'm not sure I would use your proposed method - I think you would run the pump dry doing that and it may cause you problems. When I changed mine to full synthetic, I used about 18 quarts, draining 4 and refilling 4 several times. Was still cheaper than taking it to Ford for their flushing procedure Don
  12. I see somebody else owns both a TC and a Chevy Volt! Don
  13. This issue has been around for 40 years or so on any engine with an aluminum head. It is caused by dissimilar metals corrosion and any mechanic worth his salt knows that when you change spark plugs, you must coat the threads of the new plug with something . . . . usually an anti-seize compound specifically made for spark plugs which keeps the corrosion from 'eating' the least noble of the metals . . . . the aluminum in this case Recently (the past several years) NGK, Delco and possibly some others have begun coating their plug threads with a trivalent plating (looks like chrome) specifically to reduce the corrosion - If your new plugs have the coating, don't use any other compund on them too - The two together act like a lubricant and will cause you to torque them too tight As always, with an aluminum head, be SURE to use a torque wrench when installing plugs and err on the side of sliightly under torquing them, rather than over torquing them - Just enough to crush the washer is all that's needed. The aluminum is soft, the threads are pretty fine and it's not that hard to strip the threads, especially in an older engine which already has corrosion present Don
  14. The battery is enclosed on all 6 sides in a nylon/plastic case, so if the battery you want will fit inside that case, there is zero chance of anything getting anywhere near the terminals. The battery case in our TC's has LOTS of unused space in it which does allow for a larger, more powerful battery to be installed. So long as you can fit it in the case, properly clamped down, there's no danger . . . . actually much less danger installing a sealed AGM than you would have with a flooded battery which can vent hydrogen gas If you had an AGM battery that 'outgassed' and caused corrosion, you had a pretty serious charge problem with the vehicle. AGM's are sealed, though they do have pressure relief valves to keep them from exploding when the charging system goes amok and tries to destroy the battery - If you had a flooded battery in there instead of the AGM, it would have quickly boiled it dry, under those conditions. Not a problem with either battery, but with the vehicle (and it's charging system) that the battery was installed in Don
  15. New TC Owner - Hi Everyone

    Nice looking van! - It's what you really wanted . . . . you know it is! I *think* the cargo versions without all the interior trim that comes in the wagons can handle 4 x 8 sheets laying flat . . . . someone will correct me if I'm wrong I'm sure Destiny reared it's beautiful head and save you from a fate worse than death! - Driving a MoPar!! Don