Welcome to the Ford Transit Forum

Welcome to the Ford Transit Connect Forum - the largest Ford Transit forum discussion board.  Like most online communities, you must register to post and take advantage of other features that this community has to offer, but don't worry this is a simple free process that requires minimal information for you to signup. Be apart of Ford Transit Connect Forum by signing in or creating an account.
• Receive special product discounts
• Invitations to events
• Start new topics and reply to others
• Subscribe to topics and forums to get email updates
• Get your own profile page and make new friends
• Send personal messages to other members
• Create an album and post photos. . .More!

Click here to create an account now.


Beta Don

T.C. Member
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Beta Don last won the day on June 27

Beta Don had the most liked content!

About Beta Don

  • Rank
    Transit Connect Member

Profile Information

  • Region
    U.S. Mississippi Valley
  • Location
    Ocean Springs MS
  • Current Vehicle
    2014 XLT SWB Wagon
  1. I would agree with you that the CVT is a good match for a small engine without lots of torque *if* it's in a small car that you won't use to tow anything. It's an even more appealing idea if you regularly trade cars well before they see the 100K mark on the odometer, as even the latest, greatly improved versions have a history of failure before 100K miles. After the warranty expires, replacing it will be very costly - Many really good looking cars in the boneyard have failed CVT's and the replacement cost evidently wasn't worth it to the owner I wouldn't want one in a heavier car, or with any engine which develops plenty of torque - You don't see them behind V8's and for good reason. When they fail (not *if*) they usually cannot be rebuilt and replacing the trans typically runs between $3K and $5K USD. I would not buy one in a TC if it was offered - Too heavy and towing 2,000 pounds with one would be an invitation to failure Don
  2. I did lots of research before buying our TC - The big question I needed answers to was did I want the 2.0 with the 4 speed auto or the 2.5 with the 6 speed. Hands down, that's a no-brainer, so we went shopping for a used 2014 or 2015 . . . . whatever we could get the best deal on - Once I did the research, we never looked at a Gen 1 We cruise at 2250 RPM at 70 mph and the torquey 2.5 can pull it OK up most hills without down shifting to 5th. 6th is a true 'overdrive' as 5th at 70 mph gets you 3,000 RPM and at that RPM it will pull just about any grade without needing to downshift again The fact that they advertise the transmission as 'maintenance free' is actually a good thing, IMO. If they don't expect transmission problems for those who bought the Ford extended warranty and don't do any maintenance, imagine how reliable it will be for those of us who are doing regular fluid changes. I do wish they had given us a dipstick to check the level though - The procedure we need to use is a bit labor intensive . . . . but then, it's only needed once every 25K The 6F35 was jointly developed by Ford and GM and it's an awesome transmission in my opinion. The ability to put it in any gear you like and keep it there has already come in very handy. Also, if you have the cruise control set and go down a steep hill, the computer will downshift automatically for more engine braking so you never exceed the speed you have it set for - I love that feature. I've never driven a better combination of small engine/transmission than the 2.5 mated with the 6F35. I'm 100% happy with it. I've driven several cars with small 4 cylinder engines mated to 4 speed transmissions and always found them lacking - You just need more gear ratios to get the best from small engines, even in small cars - Buying a 2.0 four mated to a 4 speed automatic in a 3500 lb van (maybe pulling a trailer, which we frequently do) would have left me kicking myself for not doing more research Don
  3. The 6F35 Select Shift 6 speed transmission used in the Gen 2's is completely different from the 4 speed in your early model. There isn't a transmission pan on the bottom that you can remove and the filter is buried deep within the trans so you cannot change it Supposedly it's a 'Lifetime Fill' transmission which requires no maintenance during it's 'lifetime' but if you want it to last as long as your TC, everyone (including your Ford dealer) recommends fluid changes every 25 to 30K and since fluid changes are so much less expensive than trans rebuilds, it's a no-brainer in my book - I really hate to throw away money on something that regular maintenance can prevent Don
  4. That sounds pretty doggone normal to me and likely not the fault of the bigger swaybar *If* you had lost traction due to the bigger front bar, you would have understeered off the side of the road - The bigger bar overloaded the front tires, they lost traction and you couldn't make the turn, but that's not what you said happened You spun out, which means the rear tires lost traction and that's what I would expect to happen, irregardless of what front bar you were running. You overcooked the corner a bit and then the decreasing radius made it obvious you weren't going to make it, so you lifted and trailing throttle oversteer caused the rear tires to lose traction (not the overloaded front tires caused by the bigger swaybar) and you spun out, as expected https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lift-off_oversteer Been there, done that a few times myself in my '94 Miata R package. It takes lots of practice to restrain yourself from lifting in an overcooked corner . . . . if you keep doing it though, the results will always be the same Don
  5. On computer controlled vehicles, you need that +12 volt wire because that's what provides power for the trailer lights - The little box js just a switch box . . . . it sends the 12 volt power to the trailer when the car's turn signals are activated. The cars tail light wires cannot be used to power the trailer lights directly, good ground or no ground Don
  6. The LED's I installed are for low beams only - I still have the OEM bulbs in the high beams Don
  7. I think if I wanted a subwoofer amp, I might mount a pair of 6" subs in the rear doors for 'fill' - Otherwise, I don't see much advantage to rear speakers pumping out the same audio as the fronts in a two seater vehicle - Others may think differently of course Don
  8. My OEM screen shows the date, time, temperature and also is the screen for the OEM back-up camera Don
  9. My 'schedule'is to do the 13 quart dump and refill every 25,000 miles We had a small Mitsubishi van years ago and it had a standard drain plug on the auto trans pan. Every other 3K engine oil change,I would dump the trans and put in 2 1/2 quarts of new fluid - I think with the converter it held 7 quarts total, so about every 10,000 miles, we had changed the trans fluid. I really liked that arrangement, but unfortunately very few manufacturers put a drain plug in the trans pan Don
  10. Not only every time I come here (and I have it all set up to auto log me on, but it won't) but also some times as I move from forum to forum it logs me out and I have to log in again. 5 or 6 log in's on an average 15 or 20 minute visit is about the norm Don
  11. Amen on the better headlights! - They really missed the boat there, didn't they? Don
  12. The 'noise' a Harley makes isn't because it's a V twin - It's because the firing order is so screwed up. It's a 45 degree Vee, but because both cylinders use a common crankshaft connection the firing order is a bit . . . . irregular. The cylinders fire 405 degrees apart (360 + 45) and then the next time it's 315 degrees apart, (360 - 45) and the result is the 'potato, potato' sound, which to me sounds like it's broken . . . . makes me want to take it apart and FIX IT!! In the beginning, it kinda, sorta made a little bit sense. They first put a 1 cylinder motor on a bicycle and eventually needed more power, so they went to 2 cylinders. To keep the engine as narrow as possible so your knees didn't hit the motor, they aligned the cylinders one directly in front of the other, which made them share a single crankpin Fast forward 20 or 30 years and Harleys had that famous transmission and clutch, which was easily twice as wide as the engine, so there was really no need to continue with the antiquated motor - They could have offset the cylinders a couple inches and gave each cylinder it's own throw on the crankshaft, which would have 1.) Evened out the firing order, 2.) Allowed the motor to spin faster without blowing up, 3.) Made much more power, 4.) Given it better fuel economy, 5.) Made it last much longer - That irregular firing order also plays havoc with the carburetor But, I think by that point, about all they had going for them was the potato, potato sound - Henderson was making an inline four which blew the wheels off the Harleys and by 1930 just about everybody else was making a much more modern, better engineered engine, but Harley soldiered on, sticking with 1913 technology Don
  13. I did not - I had the front up on ramps about a foot tall and the van needs to be level to check the trans fluid Don
  14. Well, you did say you wanted to go from 16's to 18's so you could get taller sidewalls for more 'cush' . . . . If your new 18" tires have a taller sidewall than the 16" tires that came on the van, that's a pretty major change Don
  15. Very first oil change! With ramps, it's a bit of a pain removing the lower engine cover, but now that I've done it once, the next time will be easier for sure. Previous owner of my van was a Ford dealership, so all but one of the Torx screws are a bit stripped out which makes them easy to remove and replaced just using fingers - If tight is good, then too tight must be better??? The engine drain plug and the oil filter were installed by the Incredible Hulk which made them VERY difficult to remove. A box end wrench wasn't long enough to loosen the drain plug and the oil filter took every cuss word I knew to get it off. Both replaced with a more moderate amount of torque The old oil was put in at 12,000 miles, so it had almost 8K on it and still looked very clean - Not black at all. The oil sensor hadn't said it was time for a change, but we're headed out on a long trip and I wanted fresh oil The oil fill cap on the 2.5 is in a bit of an odd place, to say the least. It's back under the lip of the vent system which means you'll need to custom cut a funnel so you can get it in there. I used Castrol Edge 5W20 full synthetic and a Purolator Synthetic oil filter. The oil comes in 5 quart jugs, so I bought two. It took exactly 5.7 quarts - The 5 quart jug left me almost a quart low after running it for a minute. Somehow, I managed not to spill a drop! It was 93 degrees today and if I had to do this outside, I think I would have died, but I bought a big window unit and installed it up high in the back wall of my garage a couple winters ago, so after it runs for a half hour or so, the cold air falls to the floor and right under the van - It was almost comfortable in there 19,677 miles on it now - New oil, filter and air filter so I'm good for a year or 10,000 miles, whichever comes first . . . but I'm gonna do the 13 quart transmission drain and refill at 25,000 miles, so my guess is I'll be back under there sometime this fall Don