Jump to content

Welcome to the Ford Transit Connect Forum

Welcome to the Ford Transit Connect Forum - the largest Ford Transit forum discussion board.  Like most online communities, you must register to post and take advantage of other features that this community has to offer, but don't worry this is a simple free process that requires minimal information for you to signup. Be apart of Ford Transit Connect Forum by signing in or creating an account.
• Receive special product discounts
• Invitations to events
• Start new topics and reply to others
• Subscribe to topics and forums to get email updates
• Get your own profile page and make new friends
• Send personal messages to other members
• Create an album and post photos. . .More!

Click here to create an account now.


transit connect guest message logo.png



T.C. Member
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


zalienz last won the day on September 17

zalienz had the most liked content!

1 Follower

About zalienz

  • Rank
    New Member

Profile Information

  • Region
    U.S. Pacific Coast
  • My. T.C.'s Year

Recent Profile Visitors

539 profile views
  1. I believe the question was " where do you put a jack stand if the jack is in the way?" And I responded with a solution that answered the question. There was no question about how much the cost was. Sincerely, the price is high, but the solution is excellent, and the excellent often has a high cost. I'm a middle class dude, so I'm pretty sure I'm not richer than you. But if you want the best, that answers the question, Jackpoint does it right. Peace!
  2. Use these jack stands. http://www.jackpointjackstands.com/
  3. Wow, that's some sweet work on the conversion. I also returned from a long road trip through several western states. I averaged 26mpg on 3200 miles. I noticed fuel mileage dropped pretty fast over 75mph, went through Utah also at 80mph+ Additionally, also got a cracked windshield on the way into Flagstaff, AZ. A local windshield shop fixed it at 8am the next morning, took 25 minutes and cost $35, gave him $40 and keep the change, and off I went. Seattle traffic is a major bitch, reminiscent of LA traffic. Great post!
  4. Need to clear the air bag light

    The airbag new module will need to be armed using the appropriate scan tool and software, usually a dealership affair. Providing you did everything right, it should not be a big deal, but you'll have to pay the charge to arm the module. Keep in mind, whenever the airbag light is on, the system will not function by design.
  5. Happy to help! I should have added the most challenging part was actually removing the console up and around the parking brake handle. I also had to pull up on the handle as high as possible to get it to clear, and use some creative turning of the console to get it out and back in. It's possible, but you have to find the sweet spot.
  6. For the best jack stands, if you have the money - see http://www.jackpointjackstands.com/home.html The center top comes off, set it on top of your floor jack, and the base wraps around the jack in the raised position. Then lower the car onto the stand, and pull the floor jack out. I use it on my mobile service van along with a OTC aluminum racing jack. This eliminates the age old question of where to put the jack stand after lifting the vehicle at the factory location. Effing brilliant. They are light and works correctly every time. And safety - way stronger than any stamped steel or plastic ramp.
  7. You're welcome. Many others have posted stuff that have helped me greatly. Glad I am contributing to the Transit Connect community.
  8. The center console is easy to remove. From the service manual: Removal NOTE: On both sides, as both the drivers and passengers side seats will have to be positioned. Position the front seat in the full rearward position. Remove the front console retainers. (see photo Console 1) Torque : 41 lb.in (4.6 Nm) NOTE: On both sides, as both the drivers and passengers side seats will have to be positioned. Position the front seat in the full forward position. NOTE: On both sides, as both the drivers and passengers side seats will have to be positioned. Remove the rear console retainers. (see photo Console 2) Torque : 41 lb.in (4.6 Nm) Position the parking brake lever up then unclip and remove the parking brake boot assembly. (see photo Console 3) NOTE: Cover sides and front of Console to prevent damage from Instrument Panel and seat belts. Raise the front console. (see photo Console 4) Disconnect the electrical connectors. Remove the Front Console. To install, reverse the removal procedure Easy job. Once you get the console out, you can look underneath to see if you can rotate the rectangular panel to the position you desire.
  9. Comfort and noise on long trips?

    2nd gen seats are pretty good. I just returned from a 4300 mile road trip, and while the seats are about average, they did not kill my back like some others have. Sound wise, I did a lot of insulating in the forward cab area, using products from B-Quiet, similar to Dynamat. I insulated the front doors, the floor, A-Pillars and the roof above the headliner. It was in conjunction with a audio system upgrade. I was a lot of work, but I can say it is much quieter in front now. I also have a Ranger MaxView partition installed, which pretty much knocks out the sound from the cargo area. The insulating did a great job with the upper and mid frequencies, but the lower frequencies not so much. I heard a lot of road noise on rough roads through Washington State. Smooth roads are golden. Stock 16" Continental tires & wheels. Overall, pretty happy.
  10. And Then There Were Two...

    Little did I know a year after buying my Connect I would be transferring to the mobile service division of my day gig. Now I have (2) 2017 Transit Connect Cargo Vans to roll in.
  11. Engine runs rough at idle, idles too low

    I completely agree. I have been working on cars all my life and found the same applies - use the factory spark plugs. So - Motorcraft in Fords, AC in GM products, NGK or NipponDenso in Japanese brands, Bosch in german makes, and so on. They are relatively cheap and will always work right. I'll never put another set of Champion spark plugs in any vehicle I own.
  12. 14 and Newer 6 Speed Select Shift

    I just returned from a long 4300 mile road trip through 7 western States. I also used the select shift in the mountains of Colorado, Utah, and more. It worked flawlessly. I was carrying a bunch of gear in the back, so my expectation of performance with a 4 cylinder was pretty dead on. All in all, a really great trip, no problems with the van. I did pick up a rock chip on the windshield on my way in to Flagstaff, AZ. I called a local windshield shop in town and they fixed it bright and early the next morning for $35. It took 20 minutes. Beats a flat tire any day. Averaged 27mpg overall, used the factory NAV and Android Auto, again, no issue except Android Auto sucked up all my data on my wimpy 1GB plan. $5 added another gig, so on I went.... Home now, life is good. I love this little scoot.
  13. First road trip in the new 2017 LWB

    Good thread, thanks. I'm heading on a long road trip soon, California - Colorado - Utah - Idaho - Washington - Oregon - back to Cali. Looking forward for some road time in my 2017 LWB. Just finished up insulating the front cab area, added to the audio system with Hertz speakers, Rockford-Fosgate Amp, JBL subs, ready to roll. Renewed the Sirius subscription in case I get tired of my USB playlists. My tribute band is performing at the Colorado State Fair. Ready to rock! Good times!
  14. Wax or Sealant

    I have been going around and around on this topic. A few friends have recommended a high end paint sealant to protect the finish, like Ceramic Pro or Opti Coat Pro Plus. Both tout their excellence in protecting paint finishes. The issue is price - both are in the $1000 - $2000 range for paint correction and application. Sorry, that's more $$$$ than I'm willing to spend. The also brag of their paint warranties, and word has it that trying to collect on paint damage due to outside influence - tree sap, bird droppings, environmental fallout, etc., is very difficult to get. No thanks. There are recommended ways of protecting vehicle paint. First, cleaning. A good wash with strong detergent removes most of the grunge on the paint, and any old wax. If there still is remaining stuff on the paint, a clay bar is recommended next to remove contaminates. Second is polishing. A glaze or polish applied by hand or machine removes the small scratches and produces a deep shine. This is the paint correction phase, that gets your paint looking as good as possible without scratches. Most of the hard work is in this step. Third, if you choose it, is to apply a sealant. The sealant does only sealing, so it's important that step 2 is done as perfectly as possible to seal in the deep shine. Fourth, (or third if you don't do sealant) is to apply a coat of wax. Wax is the step that coats and protects all of the previous steps. Depending on the wax, you'll need to have it re-applied every 6 months, max. I'm about ready to pull the trigger, my Connect needs a good detail, seal and wax. I prefer the Chemical Guys, quality products for a reasonable price. Since my van is black, I will use the Blacklight glaze polish, Jet Seal, and Carnauba Wax. http://www.chemicalguys.com/ They have many YouTube videos on their products and applications, check it out. Choose what works best for you, your vehicle, and your budget.