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Everything posted by Booner

  1. 0I wanted a roof rack to carry the occasional 2x4 or plywood, etc. but didn't want to spend the money required by the after market suppliers. While in my local big box hardware store I came across the aisle that contained the electrical conduit supplies. They had an item they called "UniStrut" it's made out of mild steel and looks like a "u" with rolled over lips at the top of the u. They had another item called "top grip nut" that slides in the unistrut channel then turns 90 degrees to lock into the channel. The wheels began turning in my mind. The unistrut fits into the channel in the roof of my 2015 lwb cargo van and is bolted to the roof by 3/8" bolts through the existing plastic plugs in the roof. The "top grip nuts" allow me to fasten a plate to the unistrut that allows me to add cross bars which can be adjusted depending on what I'm hauling I purchased 2, 10 foot unistuts and cut them at 6 foot for the roof rail leaving me 2, 4 foot lengths for the cross pieces 2 bags of top grip nuts (5 nuts per bag). 4-4 hole steel blocks The cost of all this was $50.00 I then purchased 1/2 inch nuts, bolts, and washers for a total of about $30.00 Time to put this all together about 5 hours I plan on buying one more piece of United and cutting it in half along with more bits and pieces to make 2, 5 foot cross bars The pictures should show you how it all went together. When I'm not carrying anything, it all comes off except for the unistrut that acts as the roof rails
  2. I have a SCAN GAUGE II on my 2015 lwb 250 eng. and if you're concerned about mileage, I would suggest getting one. They're programmable to monitor different engine functions and I have mine set on voltage, gallons per hour, Ave. mileage, and current mileage. I live in central Missouri along the MO river so we have rolling hills but I drive on I-70 a lot where the speed limit is 70 mph. I do not have cruise control and that probably helps a little bit more as i tend to ease off the gas slightly going up a hill ( from 70 down to 65 mph) and once I crest the hill I slightly push on the gas to get it up to a little over 70. Driving in this manner on the interstate, I don't have much of a problem making 28 mpg. Driving on some of the 2 lanes roads I can get 30-32 mpg but then my speeds are between 55-65. The biggest help in getting good highway mileage is coasting. Coming off the freeway, coming to a light, etc. coast; If you have to use the break you didn't start coasting soon enough. Also at idle I found that my truck burns about 1/2 gallon/hour. Putting the trans in neutral drops that down to a little less than a 1/4 gallon/hour.
  3. I don't think a 10 gauge wire is not big enough to handle the amperage. I'm thinking a 6 gauge at a minimum. 4 gauge is probably better. You may want to visit www.battery1234 to get an idea how an automotive engineer did what your trying to do
  4. Better Battery

    You can configure your alternator to charge your car battery and house battery at the same time, I wrote a long post on how to do it somewhere on this forum about a year ago. Or go to "Battery1234" for instruction on how to do it. I've also purchased a POD (power on demand) to jump start my vehicle in case of a dead battery. I haven't had to use it on my car but I have on a car at the local Wal-Mart and it started right up. I wouldn't travel without it
  5. Anemic A/C?

    Also check what mode you have for the vents. I notice if I have the cash vents and football vents selected, it doesnt cool as well as when just the dash vents are selected. Check you owners manual for this.
  6. Aftermarket Speaker question

    On things like connecting speakers I like to solder the connections so they stay right. I can't stand a loose speaker connection and the price of a soldering iron shouldn't be much different than buying a wireing harness. Check out u tube for instructions in how to do it. I'm going to replace the factory speakers with some infinity's in a few days so I can report back after I've done it with my observations. I've got some dynamat-like material I could use on the door too. I've got a hearing problem and tend to listen to my music LOUD!!! So would like something to reduce the sound from escaping the vehicle.
  7. I towed a small uhaul trailer across Kansas at 75 mph and got milave in the high 'teens/low 20's I also towed a small flatbed trailer empty and got milage in the low teens because the tailgate/loading ramp stuck up in the air like a huge sail
  8. 20160523 111937

    From the album Mini camper modifications

    Another side shot showing how unobtrusive the vents are. If anyone asks you about them, just tell them that their an airfoil
  9. Mini camper modifications

    A visual story of how I'm converting my cargo T/C into a mini camper
  10. Cargo area vent?

    Thank you. Yes I retired at the end of this past March, moved to Missouri and looking for a house here--sold my place in Colorado which should more than pay for a new place here My family is from Missouri. I like the people and the pace of life, and reasonable living cost, the biggest negative for me is the humidity. June-July-August can be kind of rough
  11. Leak into passenger footwell

    I've just begun modifing my t/c cargo into a mini camper and in doing so have found humorous holes in the undercarrage that would allow water from under the van into the interior Has it recently rained a lot or have you gone through some standing water? My van is a 2015 and I see yours is an older model so what I'm saying may not apply
  12. 20160507 161223

    From the album Mini camper modifications

    Vents full open with one open to the front and the other open to the rear
  13. 20160507 161106

    From the album Mini camper modifications

    Another side view at minimal opening
  14. Cargo area vent?

    I've posted some photos of my vents in the photo section under "mini camper modifications"
  15. 20160521 142554

    From the album Mini camper modifications

    Interior view of vents. Trim has not been installed yet
  16. 20160507 161056

    From the album Mini camper modifications

    Vents a minimum opening from the rear of the van
  17. 20160507 161121

    From the album Mini camper modifications

    Vents full open from the front of the van
  18. 20160507 130904

    From the album Mini camper modifications

    Laying out the location of the vents
  19. Cargo area vent?

    I've installed the roof vents I spoke of in a previous post and I'm very happy with how they turned out. I'm using a tablet as I write this and will try to post some pictures when I'm done. With vents opened all the way it seems that my left ear doesnt get blasted as bad as it used to until I'm going over 45-50 mph. However at freeway speeds when theyre full open you do hear more wind noise. Close the vents down to their smallest open position and they don't make any noise. I've got the weatherguard wind/rain reflectors on the window and when I leave the Windows cracked open a little along with the vents the van does stay cooler We've been getting plenty of rain lately and with the vents closed nothing gets in. If their open at their minimum open setting still now water Their made from aluminum and I painted them white but the spray can white doesnt quite match The vans color so I'll repaint then sometime in the future
  20. It was really easy to add the Windows to the sliding doors-all it took was $$$$ And a dealor who was willing to work with me. The Windows for the sliding doors were something like $350-$400 each and I ordered them through the dealor, who asked their window contractor how hard would it be to install them. "No problem, just remove the plastic place and glue the window in its place" So I ordered the Windows and in about two weeks later they showed up. I called the contractor the dealor used and they said they wouldn't put them in as I didn't buy the Windows from them!!!!! So I went back to the dealor and told them what their contractor said, and he called the contractor, 5 mins later I had an appointment with the contractor to install the Windows. I It took about 20 minutes to install each window. They used this tool that looked like a vibrating paddle to cut through the glue which holds the plastic pannel in place. Ran a line of glue around the opening and set the window in place. Very simple and I'm very satisfied I did it
  21. What is this?

    No problem---really like how you removed the floor plate in the cargo area. I think I'm going to have to do this
  22. What you did buckethead has me rethinking how I'd modify my TC into a mini camper, (i prefer to call it a multipurpose vehicle-- MPV) What's the dimensions of the area that you opened up? Could two regular car batteries fit in there? It would be nice to move my house batteries there, even if I had to mount one on each side of that hump-if there's enough room
  23. What is this?

    I'm not sure I know what your referring too. Can you provide a picture? Your not referring to the back up sensors located just behind the passenger wheel well are you?
  24. Micro Camper

    Thanks, I plan on taking pictures as I go along. I found a picture on pinterest of someone's TC that they converted to a mini camper. I'm on a new to me tablet and if I could figure out how to copy and paste the picture I'd be happy to post it. In most convertions, there's a cabinet on the passenger side and a bench seat that folds into a bed on the drivers side. In the picture I'm talking about, there was a bench seat that went from the drivers side across to the cabinets on the passengers side so that passengers using this seat were facing forward. Also the seat looked to be mounted just in front of the rear wheel wells or just slightly back from were the factory 2nd row seats would be so the passengers could see out of the Windows in the sliding doors. I've been working on a plan where this seat would unfold into a bed long enough for my 6'5" body. Also, I want to flip the cabinet so it's behind the driver and the seats would be in a more conventional position on the right side of the van. That way passengers would enter from the passengers side/curb side. You would have storage behind the seat when it was in a seat position but would loose some of that storage when the seat was unfolded into a bed. Adding the seat/bed combo makes the vehicle a little more practicable in that it can haul 4 people in a more normal seating configuration. Also, I'm trying to make the cabinet and seat/bed modular, so you could take it out if you wanted to use the camper as a cargo van, or make changes/upgrades to the interior. I'll use the tie down points in the floor and the threaded bolt holes in the side of the van to make it more ridgid/safer in the event of an accident. Half the fun of doing this project is the planning part. Watching it come together is the icing on the cake
  25. I towed a small U-hual trailer with furniture in it from Colorado to Missouri with no problems. The hitch was factory installed. If I was to do more towing behave to figure out a way to reduce the "slop" that the hitch has when you insert it into the receiver. It made a lot of noise Hauling a small camper-not a problem- but you will reduce your gas mileage! From the mid 20's at 80 mph down to the high teens while towing at 70 mph