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Everything posted by jrm223

  1. Jacks

    To answer your question, yes the handle is removable. There's a thumbscrew that holds it in place, just loosen it & pull the handle out. The handle is two pieces that have a set-screw holding them together, so you'd need tools if you wanted to completely break it down. The jack fits great under the false floor in my 2015 cargo van, no need to disassemble the handle itself since it's only like a few feet long.
  2. Unfortunately, our members here really don't have experience with the full-size Transit 150/250/350. This forum is about the wee little Transit Connect... That said, with the gas tank being beneath the fourth bolt, is there enough room that you could use a nutsert in the floor? So you're not trying to get a regular nut between the tank & floor. Also, the full-size Transit comes in cargo & passenger versions just like our Transit Connects - so what about getting a middle seat from a passenger version and putting it in your van? The bolt holes might already be there, or you may need to put nutserts in for that seat, too, I don't know...
  3. Disable Perimeter Lighting

    I think my cables came from Ebay, if I remember right. I've had them for at least 5 years, I'd guess. The $200 or so included a 3ft pigtail, 5ft pigtail and 25ft jumper cables, all 2awg. The extra pigtail was intended for a removable winch on a hitch-mount plate that I never got around to wiring (I had a 2003 F350 4x4 diesel back then). I had one of those bigger jump-packs that my grandpa gave me, but eventually the battery in it died completely.
  4. I stay in the driver seat, it reclines nearly flat in my van - but both seats lay back equally in my van. I just went out and took a quick pic for ya to show how far back it lays down. Nevermind the removed headrest - it doesn't like to share space with a cowboy hat, lol. This shows why it seems odd to me that your seat doesn't touch the partition at max recline... I'd think something is hitting before it's truly at "max recline"... Also shown is my beast of an inverter, 3000W/6000W pure sine wave - bought it cheap not working and I haven't figured out what's wrong (I'm a computer tech by day) so I'll have to find someone/place that specializes in these. Mike, good video on the nutserts. I have some for the roof to install E-track since my van didn't come with roof rails. I was going to use the nut & wrench method, but a washer & small wrench that's just barely bigger than the bolt would probably be easier.
  5. We talked about that when I did this same thing with my van a couple years ago. Your van has carpet in the front, thus carpet in the cavity. Myself & Mike Chell have base XL's with vinyl in the front, thus vinyl in the cavity. Mike, you're working a lot faster than me! I've had that subfloor in & out many times, depending on what I need to use my van for at any given time. Right this moment, I have the support beam and "rear" floor panel in with maybe half-dozen of the bolts, but not the smaller piece right behind the seats. I got rid of the vinyl floor cover long ago and plan to do bedliner, instead. One of my plans is finding a chest toolbox (used, for cheap) that will fit "just right" in there so that I can have additional locked storage for my tools and things. The main reason I want to find a cheap one is that I'll probably end up cutting the bottom of the box to fit lower into the floor - I recline my seat to take rest breaks on road trips to visit family & friends in northern Illinois and I'm in Texas. You're doing great work, I look forward to seeing more!
  6. Camping tips

    Now that's what I call a "mobile home" lol. Too bad our USA cabovers aren't as nice & streamlined as the Euro cabovers. The Freightliner Argosy was the most streamlined and also the last class 8 cabover in the states. I'd love to have a Scania, though. A Longline cab would be great for my use as a "motorhome" pulling a camping trailer.
  7. Mine didn't have that extra trim piece on it, but I have a base model. I just had to squeeze in the two sides on my lens (by hand) and it popped right out. Yours looks like the LED version whereas I had regular incandescent bulb. I'm guessing you tried putting like a putty knife or something under the bottom side where that notch is? I'd think push straight up at that spot to release the lock.
  8. Is this the right spot to check for current BCM version? I also see a History tab, which shows nothing. Acronym Description Assembly Part No. Software Part No. Last Checked BCM Body Control Module (BCM) DV6T-14A073-UM DV6T-14C094-BH 08-12-14 21:51
  9. I got the extended license for Forscan (it's free, but you have to renew every 2 months) and tried to turn the approach lights off, but it didn't work for me. From what I'm seeing, I need to get the BCM updated and then it *should* work correctly. Windguy, when you read the BCM and other modules, save the file and keep it as a master copy. You can reload it to the BCM if you do mess something up, lol.
  10. Well, that sucks! I do have power windows, but only the driver is one-touch. Mine is a window-less cargo van, so no rear windows to worry about.
  11. For what it's worth, this is the ELM that I bought and have used with Forscan & Focccus. The changes I tried to make saved successfully, but didn't actually work for me - I reverted to OEM config until I can get the BCM updated with latest code so I can try my configuration changes again and that will include dark mode. It also cleared DTC's successfully using Forscan.
  12. I recall seeing a setting for "Approach lights", which I would assume is when you unlock the van and those perimeter lights turn on with the remote - I disabled them, and they still came on :( But now that setting is back to default since I reversed all my changes. I didn't see anything about dark mode and I assumed that I wouldn't since I don't have the updated BCM code.
  13. Disable Perimeter Lighting

    Dandytc got it right, that's exactly what that post is for, lol. That was actually one of the first things I noticed after I bought my van. That said, I have tow-truck-style jumper cables with a disconnect on the front of the van that my 25ft cables plug into to use for jumping others & could be used to jump my van, if needed. No need to pop my hood at all, but definitely not something that everyone would want to have, though - especially at nearly $200... This is the best pic I have available of the plug, I only zip-tied it to the grill but it's held up fine with at least a dozen uses now. But that red rubber cover is more like road-grime-nasty these days. I've gotten questions ranging from "Is that a diesel?" (I guess indicating some massive engine warmer since my old PowerStroke was a standard 110V plug, lol) to "Is that an electric car?" Nope, but it'll provide 12V electricity, haha.
  14. I was messing around with Forscan & Focccus on my 2015 XL a few weeks back, trying to enable things like global open/close and a few other changes. None of them ended up working for me, though. I ended up loading the as-built file (original OEM code) back in for the time being. I need to get Ford to update my BCM and then I'll try again, lol.
  15. Finally bringing a diesel, nice! Now if only Ford would let us have a manual trans, too. I wouldn't mind having the improved front seats to put in my 2015, as well. 1K mile trips straight-through aren't the most comfortable thing to do - although I only need to do that a few times a year when visiting family.
  16. What color is your Transit Connect Wagon?

    On my 2015, it's called "Panther Black Metallic" and I've seen it called "Tuxedo Black" or "Tuxedo Black Metallic" on other Ford vehicles. As far as my eyes can tell, it's all the same metallic black, lol. Probably one of those things where you'd have to see them all on the same panel to notice the subtle difference? Funny thing about Panther Black Metallic on my van is that the little bitty town of 500-ish people in rural Texas where I bought a project house (sight-unseen while living 1000 miles away in northern IL) has the Gorman Panthers and Lady Panthers as the school sports teams, haha.
  17. What goes here?

    The "P switch" is the parking sensors on/off for the rear bumper. If you had a cargo rack on the hitch and put the van in reverse, the sensors/bell would be going off thinking you're about to hit something, so you could click the P switch to shut them off.
  18. So, my van is at a tire shop right now getting an upgrade to General Grabber AT2 all-terrains. Stock tires have 70K on them and are pretty well worn-down, one pair is at the wear bars and the other pair has a little bit left before the wear bars. I ordered 215/65R16 so I can gain 1/2" extra ground clearance because I scrape too often - but, of course, WalMart wouldn't put them on since they aren't stock-size. I ordered online since they weren't in-stock at my local store. Their worker told me "The tires are 6.67% bigger (I know that, I want more ground clearance) and your van is spec'd for extra-load capacity tires and the tires you bought are standard-load." I looked up the tire specs and Ford's axle specs (GAWR) - my van has 2716lb GAWR for each axle and the tires are rated 1653/ea thus 3306/pair?! 590lbs more capacity then the axle is rated for, but they're not high enough load capacity, that's hilarious! Anywho, pics later after I get the van back. I'll have to schedule a service visit with Ford to reprogram computer for the new tire size and I also still need to get the door latch recall done. Hopefully these tires will help me not get stuck in my own yard like the stock ones did in spring of 2016... Had to get pulled out of my own yard, lol.
  19. General Grabber AT2 upgrade

    Haven't been at work the last couple days because of ice & freezing rain here in Texas. I filled up my tank on Tuesday night and got 22.37 MPG (corrected for tire size). With the old tires, I was averaging around 24 MPG, so it's a 6.8% reduction if I'm doing my math right... But the previous tank was 23.6 MPG, which is a 1.7% reduction from the old tires.
  20. General Grabber AT2 upgrade

    Nope, I haven't noticed any rubbing issues and they've had probably a couple thousand miles, I forgot the mileage when I had them put on... I did get around to calculating the odometer difference more accurately, going from my project house to the one I live in is 83.9 miles and the odometer read 79.2 miles, giving a ratio of 1.059 instead of 6.7% (1.067) like the online tire calculators claimed. I still need to get it into Ford to hopefully have them reprogram the tire size and also still need the door latch recall done. MPG's have been 20.5-23.6 (corrected for actual miles traveled) the couple times I've checked it and I'll be checking the next tank-full again. I was averaging around 24MPG with the original tires. Texas speed limits - and likely my short 11.5 mile work commute - have killed my MPG's compared to when I lived in IL (26-28 MPG average up there with the lower speed limits and 50 mile former work commute).
  21. Winter Tire Thread

    On behalf of Finns (two n's, lol), we thank you - kiitos! - for your compliment. Even if I've never been to Finland myself - my great-grandparents on dad's/dad's side came here to the US around 1916. Now I just need to build myself a new sauna since I had to sell my old one to have a down-payment for my new home last year...
  22. I live in north-central Texas and it was 30* on my way into work this morning - so you might still need the heated seats, haha. We've even had many nights in the 20's the past several weeks.
  23. The "engine off & doors open" is the perimeter lights, NOT the DRL's (Daytime Running Lights). DRL's are only on with the engine running.
  24. General Grabber AT2 upgrade

    With a rear-wheel drive like that, I can understand them wanting to do all four. What good is it being able to get moving if you can't steer well? lol, now a front-wheel drive it'd be less of a concern to have all four snow tires. Back tires would help stop, but not much help to move or steer.
  25. Willygee, try to get a Ford tech to turn off your DRL's in the BCM, rather than messing with wiring/relays/switches. Some of us TC2 guys (gen 2, 2014+) are trying to get techs to turn off the stupid perimeter lights and a few have been successful, lol. It seems to be a matter of finding a tech & service department that's willing to actually put some effort into it, rather than a lazy department that just wants repairs in & out quickly. Jakeru, for the instrument lights bright/dim, you have to push the button what seems like a good 40-50 times to go from full-bright to low-dim. It also 'remembers' the two different brightness levels you desire - what I mean by that is that headlights-off can be one brightness level and headlights-on is a separate brightness level. For me, I have full-bright during the day (headlights-off) and about 20-25% brightness at night because I found the dash to be blinding at night since I live in the boonies. The only time that I have trouble with the dim setting is when it's raining during the day, so the dash is a bit harder to see, but not enough to make me take the time to turn the brightness up again.