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jrm223

T.C. Member
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jrm223 last won the day on June 22 2016

jrm223 had the most liked content!

About jrm223

  • Rank
    Transit Connect Member

Profile Information

  • Region
    U.S. Great Lakes
  • Location
    Illinois
  • Current Vehicle
    2015 Transit Connect LWB Van

Recent Profile Visitors

536 profile views
  1. No, he means US market. Over in the EU, TC vans have a button by the headlight switch for power adjustment of beam height. Here's what their switch looks like, but MRTN would have to tell us how it works. I think you push that middle button and it pops out so you can turn it between 0 & 4?
  2. You're also in Europe, dealers might be more lenient about it on this side of the pond. Even so, I can't see how perimeter lights on a parked vehicle are much of a "safety feature" - personally, I think they were just telling you some BS to get you out of the shop so they don't have to mess around with it.
  3. Believe me, those lights are not going to kill the battery, they only stay on for 10 or maybe even 15 minutes. I fairly regularly have the radio running for 3-4 hours while working outside or being at the drive-in and not even that drains the battery to the point where I can't start the van. That said, the perimeter lights are a severe annoyance! I haven't tried Connie's "click forward twice" method, I only go forward once and then backward once on the turn signal stalk, usually no lights will turn on if I open more doors that way. But, sometimes they will come on again if I open, close & reopen the same door, but not always. Very weird & of course stupid! I haven't brought it into a Ford dealer yet to try to convince them to turn the dumb feature off, lol. I also need to get the "lamp out reminder" thing turned off since I have switched to all LED bulbs in back although I still need to convert the front bulbs. Now my van thinks some bulbs are burnt-out, so it does hyperflash for turn signals. I could buy resistors, but the better option is just getting them to turn the hyperflash off, it's not like I'll ever go back to incandescent bulbs. Too bad the special Ford computer is so expensive (roughly $8000) otherwise I'd try to get one of my own and do this stuff myself, lol.
  4. I also have a cargo van, so the low-beams were insanely low since they seem to be aimed for max-cargo-load. I had upgraded to either 2500K or 3000K (I don't recall now) HID low-beams and the illuminated distance was roughly the same as the stock bulbs, but at least it was quite a bit brighter in that stock area. I ended up parking my van about 20ft from my garage and re-aiming the headlights higher since it's pretty rare for me to have more than a couple hundred pounds of cargo in back (not counting myself in driver seat), let alone maxing out the 1200lb cargo capacity which the low-beams were aimed for. I found the aiming procedure online, I think it was park 20ft from a wall, on level ground for vehicle & wall, then measure the center of the headlights and aim the beam like 6" lower @ 20ft. But don't quote me on that, Google it to make sure... haha. I did keep the driver-side headlight a few inches lower than the passenger-side headlight and haven't been 'flashed' for the HID's, but 2500K/3000K is yellow (great in fog) not hyper-white or another crazy bright color.
  5. That's a TC1 taxi; the TC2 taxi uses regular opening windows.
  6. Only problem is that 24hr Texas to California drive! My profile still says Illinois, but I moved to Texas back in November, lol. G B L, on my barn-door van, there's like spot welds or indents where the hinge bolt holes would be on a hatch-back van. It's 3 in a triangle shape (per side) that matched the pics I took of hatch-back hinges when I had the loaner TC Titanium. I'll have to look at my hard drive tonight and see if I can find those pics I took.
  7. If you want to sleep in it AND have no windows in the back, you're looking at a LWB cargo van instead of a passenger wagon or maybe even a SWB cargo van depending on how tall you are. I bought a 2015 TC XLT LWB cargo van new with no windows at all in the back (not even on the sliding side doors) and have plenty of room to sleep at floor level while being 6ft tall. At floor level, cargo length behind the driver & passenger seats is something like 7ft. If I remember my measurements correctly, I could even build a platform bed at shoulder-height of the driver seat to have storage space under the bed. For reference, I use a memory foam full-size mattress from Walmart as a camping bed, but I cut the bed length-wise and double-stacked it, so it's close to 6" thick but only about 26-27" wide. That leaves lots of open room on the other half of the van, but I can't easily roll around in bed! It's nice having the extra room to get dressed when urban stealth-camping, though. My van is all-purpose, so it's not a dedicated camper like some others here; I only put the mattress in when I know I'll need it. These two pics are from two year ago, I have a twin-size fitted sheet on the mattress now and the floor doesn't look new & shiny anymore, haha. One other thing in this first pic is that there's a tool cabinet behind the bed, so the edge of the mattress is actually about 10" from the back door, the tool chest (actually an HF Hanging Wall Cabinet) took up that space but is not currently in my van anymore. Hopefully this all helps you with your search!
  8. As you already figured out, there's no cutting/welding involved. But, you will need to drill-out the holes where the new hinges will go and then probably use Nutserts for the hinges to bolt into. I would actually like to go the opposite direction - switch my barn doors for a hatch, haha. I had a loaner TC Titanium at one point, so I took a bunch of pictures of the hinges, strut mounts, latch location (with tape measure for reference), but I've never gotten around to comparing the latch location with my own barn door TC. I do suspect that it's in the same spot since Beta Don mentions the hatch version also being offset left-of-center like the barn doors version. Another issue you would come across would be rear wipers & squirters (do the barn doors even have squirters? lol), you would need to extend & reroute the wiring for door electronics, including the license plate light. I have solid non-windowed doors, so I don't know anything about the wipers & squirters. BSUPC makes a good point about going 270* instead of 180*. If I were you, I'd look for a front or side-wrecked TC with 270* doors to get all the parts from.
  9. We're all talking about the "Christmas trees" on the inside of the side panels, not the push-clips on the door cards. Like these things...
  10. I believe the BCM monitors battery voltage & will "turn off" all accessories, including 12V outlet, if the battery voltage gets to a certain point. I have run the radio for 3+ hours several times while doing yardwork and stuff, without the key or engine and had no trouble (just gotta hit the power button on the radio every hour when it turns off). My old GPS was a pile and would randomly turn itself on sometimes, when it happened on a weekend it could sometimes run for 12+ hours and I'd have no idea. That said, the GPS never killed the van battery after turning itself on. I think you're worrying more than you need to. Reminds me of a buddy, he'll put his truck radio on at a party and then start the engine for a couple seconds every 30-45 minutes, lmao. I told him that cranking that starter and only running it 1-2 seconds uses way more juice than the radio does... Especially when he does it to his Cummins Dodge rather than his gas Chevy! I also told him that I run my radio for 3+ hours at a time with a battery half the size of his (or 1/4, in the case of the dual-battery Dodge), but he won't listen, lol.
  11. Searching "Street Cat H11" shows this page. It says 4000 lumens each, so I guess they're old-stock 2015 version. Amazon Street Cat H11
  12. I've been getting this problem for at least a month now, just happened again a few minutes ago when I logged-in. It has also logged me out a couple of times when switching forums or pages, but not very often. I use the full website without Facebook (I don't think I even have the FB page 'liked' lol) on a laptop.
  13. I pulled mine out last summer so I can eventually get around to bedlining the whole back area. I just used a regular crowbar to get it started by the sliding doors since I don't have the "proper" panel removal tools and after I had the first 4-5 loose, I was able to carefully pull the panel off by hand. None of them broke, but I know one clip/tree is missing now, but I've moved twice since removing them, so I don't know/remember if it popped out during removal or from being shuffled around so much. As mentioned, I started at the side closest to the sliding doors and worked my way back. I'm also not particularly concerned with putting them back in, either - plastic gets damaged too easily, haha. Maybe if or when I eventually trade it in or sell the van, then I'll put them back in. My van is a bit noisier now without anything in the back, but it's a cargo van not a luxury sedan...
  14. Check out videos on YouTube for Ford 2.5L exhaust, the Fusion has the same engine as us (not counting the 1.6L EcoBoost guys and certain non-US models, of course). In this video, my favorite is the 3rd one at about 1:17 minutes. Of course, muffler delete is another option, lol
  15. Nice redesign. I'm curious, though, why not mount the electronics under the false floor? My van has the vinyl floor and I removed everything related to the false floor, including the vinyl that's hiding underneath the false floor, and there's something like 11.5" of vertical height wasted in there. If you look at my gallery pics, there's a whole bunch in there from when I took out the floor. In any case, it would put the electronics & battery out of the way so you have more storage room for other things you need... Right now, I have part of the false floor back in my van because I needed some extra flat space. My plan is to build an opening toolbox/chest there at some point.