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jrm223

T.C. Member
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jrm223 last won the day on June 22 2016

jrm223 had the most liked content!

About jrm223

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Region
    U.S. Southern Plains
  • My. T.C.'s Year
    2015

Recent Profile Visitors

660 profile views
  1. Hello Again

    When I was living in Illinois, I was doing 100 miles a day going to work & home. When I moved to Texas last November, that got cut to 54 miles a day, then I moved again in March and it's now 23 miles round-trip! Although I've also made three trips up to visit family and friends in Illinois this year at roughly 2K miles per trip... As for MPG's, I was getting 26-28 when living in Illinois, but Texas gets me 22-24 :( because of the higher speed limits (70MPH in-between towns where I'm at now, was 75MPH for the first place I lived down here). 340 miles on that one? Man, I had bought my van on a Tuesday and by the first weekend it was almost at 340! lol
  2. Custom Build

    Dang, I was just up in Chicagoland (Des Plaines) last week. But, the false floor of my van has some heavy-use damage, so it's not the best van for measuring things to make a kit anyhow.
  3. Not bad, but I was expecting them to be integrated in the regular light housings, too. They are indicated for construction & maintenance type use, so they generally would be turned off while driving around. Fifty150, look into Atomic LED, they have flashers that integrate into stock lights (convert to LED if they aren't already) and give great flash patterns. Their flasher boxes have overrides for normal vehicle functioning, too - so hitting the brakes while the strobes are already going will light the brake-lights up solid like normal so that people know you're stopping. You might also look into Speed Turtle, it plugs into the OBD port and flashes certain lights depending on model year, manufacturer & specific vehicle model. I didn't see any compatibility for Transit Connects, but I remember F150's being listed as compatible.
  4. Locking easy fuel plug ?

    BSUPC, what are you talking about with popping windows out and unlocking doors?? I don't know about wagons, but my 2015 cargo van TC doesn't have a latching/locking fuel door. Just walk up to the van and open the fuel door... As for the worry about "contaminated liquids" or sugar, etc - the prankster/vandal or crazy ex-girlfriend would need to know to bring the right funnel with them like what's in our glove boxes. See this post about "proper fuel nozzle" to release the latches on the fuel door. Now that I see this, I'll have to try inserting different funnels that I have to see what happens - if this image is right, the funnels won't fit if they aren't the right diameter, interesting.
  5. Hello Again

    Welcome back Windguy. I haven't done much more on my conversion, moved twice since last November, lol. But, I'll be rolling 62K on my 2015 van soon, maybe a week or two... I have the longest warranty Ford offers on our vans because of being financed.
  6. Site keeps logging me out

    I just logged in for the first time in a couple weeks and it only prompted for log-in once. That said, I only use the one computer to go on FTCF.
  7. Site keeps logging me out

    I still have to log-in twice to get in, even just a few minutes ago. I never noticed the alter-ego username, but didn't read about it until now... That said, I only log-in to this site from one computer 95% of the time. There were 2 or 3 times a few weeks ago that I logged-in on my work computer, but otherwise it's only this laptop that I'm writing this from now.
  8. No, he means US market. Over in the EU, TC vans have a button by the headlight switch for power adjustment of beam height. Here's what their switch looks like, but MRTN would have to tell us how it works. I think you push that middle button and it pops out so you can turn it between 0 & 4?
  9. You're also in Europe, dealers might be more lenient about it on this side of the pond. Even so, I can't see how perimeter lights on a parked vehicle are much of a "safety feature" - personally, I think they were just telling you some BS to get you out of the shop so they don't have to mess around with it.
  10. Believe me, those lights are not going to kill the battery, they only stay on for 10 or maybe even 15 minutes. I fairly regularly have the radio running for 3-4 hours while working outside or being at the drive-in and not even that drains the battery to the point where I can't start the van. That said, the perimeter lights are a severe annoyance! I haven't tried Connie's "click forward twice" method, I only go forward once and then backward once on the turn signal stalk, usually no lights will turn on if I open more doors that way. But, sometimes they will come on again if I open, close & reopen the same door, but not always. Very weird & of course stupid! I haven't brought it into a Ford dealer yet to try to convince them to turn the dumb feature off, lol. I also need to get the "lamp out reminder" thing turned off since I have switched to all LED bulbs in back although I still need to convert the front bulbs. Now my van thinks some bulbs are burnt-out, so it does hyperflash for turn signals. I could buy resistors, but the better option is just getting them to turn the hyperflash off, it's not like I'll ever go back to incandescent bulbs. Too bad the special Ford computer is so expensive (roughly $8000) otherwise I'd try to get one of my own and do this stuff myself, lol.
  11. I also have a cargo van, so the low-beams were insanely low since they seem to be aimed for max-cargo-load. I had upgraded to either 2500K or 3000K (I don't recall now) HID low-beams and the illuminated distance was roughly the same as the stock bulbs, but at least it was quite a bit brighter in that stock area. I ended up parking my van about 20ft from my garage and re-aiming the headlights higher since it's pretty rare for me to have more than a couple hundred pounds of cargo in back (not counting myself in driver seat), let alone maxing out the 1200lb cargo capacity which the low-beams were aimed for. I found the aiming procedure online, I think it was park 20ft from a wall, on level ground for vehicle & wall, then measure the center of the headlights and aim the beam like 6" lower @ 20ft. But don't quote me on that, Google it to make sure... haha. I did keep the driver-side headlight a few inches lower than the passenger-side headlight and haven't been 'flashed' for the HID's, but 2500K/3000K is yellow (great in fog) not hyper-white or another crazy bright color.
  12. That's a TC1 taxi; the TC2 taxi uses regular opening windows.
  13. Switching back door styles?

    Only problem is that 24hr Texas to California drive! My profile still says Illinois, but I moved to Texas back in November, lol. G B L, on my barn-door van, there's like spot welds or indents where the hinge bolt holes would be on a hatch-back van. It's 3 in a triangle shape (per side) that matched the pics I took of hatch-back hinges when I had the loaner TC Titanium. I'll have to look at my hard drive tonight and see if I can find those pics I took.
  14. If you want to sleep in it AND have no windows in the back, you're looking at a LWB cargo van instead of a passenger wagon or maybe even a SWB cargo van depending on how tall you are. I bought a 2015 TC XLT LWB cargo van new with no windows at all in the back (not even on the sliding side doors) and have plenty of room to sleep at floor level while being 6ft tall. At floor level, cargo length behind the driver & passenger seats is something like 7ft. If I remember my measurements correctly, I could even build a platform bed at shoulder-height of the driver seat to have storage space under the bed. For reference, I use a memory foam full-size mattress from Walmart as a camping bed, but I cut the bed length-wise and double-stacked it, so it's close to 6" thick but only about 26-27" wide. That leaves lots of open room on the other half of the van, but I can't easily roll around in bed! It's nice having the extra room to get dressed when urban stealth-camping, though. My van is all-purpose, so it's not a dedicated camper like some others here; I only put the mattress in when I know I'll need it. These two pics are from two year ago, I have a twin-size fitted sheet on the mattress now and the floor doesn't look new & shiny anymore, haha. One other thing in this first pic is that there's a tool cabinet behind the bed, so the edge of the mattress is actually about 10" from the back door, the tool chest (actually an HF Hanging Wall Cabinet) took up that space but is not currently in my van anymore. Hopefully this all helps you with your search!
  15. Switching back door styles?

    As you already figured out, there's no cutting/welding involved. But, you will need to drill-out the holes where the new hinges will go and then probably use Nutserts for the hinges to bolt into. I would actually like to go the opposite direction - switch my barn doors for a hatch, haha. I had a loaner TC Titanium at one point, so I took a bunch of pictures of the hinges, strut mounts, latch location (with tape measure for reference), but I've never gotten around to comparing the latch location with my own barn door TC. I do suspect that it's in the same spot since Beta Don mentions the hatch version also being offset left-of-center like the barn doors version. Another issue you would come across would be rear wipers & squirters (do the barn doors even have squirters? lol), you would need to extend & reroute the wiring for door electronics, including the license plate light. I have solid non-windowed doors, so I don't know anything about the wipers & squirters. BSUPC makes a good point about going 270* instead of 180*. If I were you, I'd look for a front or side-wrecked TC with 270* doors to get all the parts from.
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