Jump to content

Welcome to the Ford Transit Connect Forum

Welcome to the Ford Transit Connect Forum - the largest Ford Transit forum discussion board.  Like most online communities, you must register to post and take advantage of other features that this community has to offer, but don't worry this is a simple free process that requires minimal information for you to signup. Be apart of Ford Transit Connect Forum by signing in or creating an account.
• Receive special product discounts
• Invitations to events
• Start new topics and reply to others
• Subscribe to topics and forums to get email updates
• Get your own profile page and make new friends
• Send personal messages to other members
• Create an album and post photos. . .More!

Click here to create an account now.


transit connect guest message logo.png



T.C. Member
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by DonShockley

  1. Thanks for those part numbers. I decided I'll go ahead and be the forum guinea pig on these. With the Valeo info I found both for $131 total on eBay so it won't kill me if it doesn't work. It may take a while for shipping from Latvia (eBay estimates a month), but I'll post results once I get them and try to do the swap on my 2015 XLT Wagon.
  2. Went back and looked at my paperwork on the extras I wanted included in the purchase deal. The dumb key was actually $27, the $10 was for the standard lug nuts to replace the locking ones.
  3. I have an extra dumb key for my 2015 in my wallet. But due to the special nature of the TC keys, it had to be bought and cut at the dealership. I know the first gen used a different style, but it's likely available those too. Just ask for a non-transponder key and they should be able to get one. Mine was around $10 IIRC and I made sure to include it in the purchase deal even though my TC included the two extra fob keys.
  4. I keep a dumb key in my wallet. It won't start the car if I loose my regular set, but it will get the door open just in case I accidentally leave the key in the ignition as I get out. I've only ever had to use it once.
  5. disable automatic door locking on 2010-2013 TC

    It took me a bunch of tries to get the timing right and get it to work, and yes you have to do the full sequence. I don't know why they made the last two steps seperate paragraphs instead of step numbers 6 (a&b) and 7. And if I recall correctly, somewhere in there I thought maybe there was a typo and maybe I was supposed to be pushing the unlock button instead of the lock button for the unlock procedure. I thought that might be why it wasn't working, so I tried it that way too. I forget when it actually worked. But my neighbors must have thought I was nuts constantly pulling in and out of my parking area and driving up and down the street in short bursts to test the operation each time I thought I had it disabled.
  6. For me it's a maintenance issue. Assuming you keep your vehicle locked at all times between trips, adding an extra lock/unlock cycle in the middle of each trip will at least double the total number of cycles on the lock mechanism. If you keep your vehicle in a garage and keep it unlocked at home, it will be even more than double the number of cycles. Any mechanical device is going to be more prone to failure with additional cycles, although sometimes too infrequent use can also be bad. If you minimize the number of cycles, it's likely you are also minimizing the chances of failure during your period of ownership.
  7. disable automatic door locking on 2010-2013 TC

    Here's the instructions from my 2015 TC owners manual: Enabling or Disabling Auto lock and Auto unlock To enable or disable these features, do the following: 1. Switch the ignition on. 2. Press the power door unlock button three times. 3. Switch the ignition off. 4. Press the power door unlock button three times. 5. Switch the ignition on. The horn will chirp indicating your vehicle is in programming mode. Auto lock: Press the power door lock button for less than one second and release. The horn will chirp once if disabled or twice (one short and one long chirp) if enabled. Auto unlock: Press the power door lock button for longer than two seconds and release. The horn will chirp once if disabled or twice (one short and one long chirp) if enabled. After programming the feature, switch the ignition off. The horn will chirp once indicating programming is complete. Note: You will have 30 seconds to complete the procedure. Note: You can enable or disable the auto unlock feature independently of the auto lock feature.
  8. Mike, The power port fits nicely and easily in the filler piece above the lights on the shelf. I added both USB power ports and 12v outlet there when I modified my overhead shelf. And for my dashcam I was able to skip the adapter and use just a USB cable for power.
  9. Electrical Question

    If you mean this type used in residential wiring, they aren't suitable for use in automotive applications. The continuous vibration present in an automotive application can cause them to loosen. For automotive use you need connectors designed for that application, usually a crimp type connector. Soldering is the best method to rejoin wires.
  10. spare tire reel 2014 connecr

    The manual for my 2015 Wagon has this caution on page 243.... "Do not raise the spare wheel carrier without the wheel attached. Damage can occur to the winch mechanism if lowered without a wheel attached."
  11. I often wonder how effective some of these safety extras, like DRL or center mount brake lights, are in the long run. I know they draw extra attention when they first come out since drivers aren't used to seeing them. But once they start appearing on a significant portion of the cars on the road, they lose their novelty. And I suspect that once the novelty wears off, most drivers likely become road blind to them and most of the safety benefit probably disapppears. The benefit of always on lights during dusk or light fog would make you more visible to other drivers if you haven't thought to turn on your headlights. But for that purpose, I personally prefer the Auto Headlight sensors. I assume the expert research and programming into when they are and are not needed is better than my decision making. And it's both convenient to use and easy to over ride the sensors to turn the lights both on and off if you decide to. The build option for DRL is not the only time you should be able to choose, they should also make it possible to relatively easily turn the option on or off after purchase.
  12. Electrical Question

    Although I ended up going a different route when I added extra accessories to my 2015 Wagon, I had considered tapping into the same wiring. One of the neater products I came across in my research was a product called Posi Tap which would seem to make for a much nicer and more reliable connection than most of the typical tap connectors. I never ended up using them so I can't speak from personal experience, but if I have the need in the future, it's what I'll be trying unless I come across something better. https://www.amazon.com/Lockitt-POSI-TAP-Assortment-connectors-10-22/dp/B00CMC5DII/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525137506&sr=8-1&keywords=posi+tap&dpID=51T5CZNu9-L&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch And if you need a higher power circuit to tap, that white/red wire in the photo at the bottom of the trailer tow module should be the 12v supply from a 40A fuse. At least that's what my 2015 wiring diagram book shows.
  13. Just guessing here based on apparent location from the photos and looking at the same area of my 2015 Wagon. But it looks like it's right at the back where the exterior track for the door meets the corner light assembly. It might be an adjuster to align one or the other to the body lines of the adjacent metal panel. Hard to tell from the photo without seeing how far back the black area goes. But if the metal screw moves in/out directly it could adjust the mounting for the track cover. If the screw is operating some mechanism under the humped part, and connects just a bit further to the rear, it could pull the corner trim.
  14. #1 is normal, and annoying. You never know for sure if it locked. You can hit the lock twice to trigger the "here's your car" horn honk if you really need an acknowledgement that the car is receiving your fob commands.
  15. 3rd row - 2 seats only?

    Narrower clearance between the rear wheel wells is the primary reason. Also, the third row is flat mounted while the second row mounts to the recessed area with the rear edge supported on the higher portion where the 3rd row seats mount. Even if the 2nd row fit between the wheel wells, the brackets on the second row wouldn't have any support right where all the weight is when in the raised position.
  16. D ring anchor installation.

    This guide may help some: https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/non-html/2011_Transit_Connect_v1.3.pdf Looks like the black portion is a drop in cover for the seat recess so should be clear underneath. (page 7)
  17. New Digital Tire Inflator with Pressure Gauge

    I use a similar inflator except mine has an analog gage. What I like is not having to hold everything in place. The chuck locks on and you can stand up fairly straight, just squeeze to inflate, pause and check the pressure, add more or deflate as needed. And only once the pressure is correct, disconnect and move to the next tire.
  18. New 2018 FTC XLT Cargo Van LWB

    There's an SW911 seatbelt cutter and a safety whistle in there. I started putting them in all my vehicles after an incident I saw in the news when I was younger. An elderly lady got ran off the road by another driver and her car ended up in a large group of bushes just off the road. Police were searching her travel path for a week or so with no luck finding her. Eventually an officer noticed a discolored section of bushes, as the broken branches from the crash started to die off, and investigated. The woman was found, severely dehydrated but alive. She had heard the searchers calling for her just yards away during the earlier searches but they couldn't hear her calling out weakly. The news story mentioned how a whistle and seatbelt cutter would have let her signal for help. In the past I have used the whistle lanyard to attach both to the base of the seatbelt latch. That way they aren't likely to fly too far away in a crash and can be retrieved while still in the driver's seat. When I was working on my TC and saw the unused chamber (for sunglass storage option not included on my TC), I figured it was a good use of this space. The fixed cover was a bit hard to get off, and might be again in a crash, but is doable with just your fingernails. I've debated about adding a pull tab of other aid but have left it alone so far. The label was primarily for passengers but also a reminder for myself. I've been known to accidentally hide things from myself when I put them someplace that makes sense at the time but don't do that same thought process when I go looling for them. I only remember why I put it there after I find it. And since these tools will hopefully never get touched, out of sight out of mind is a real risk. I like the SW911 because it's a versatile prying and cutting tool but the design, blunt tip and rounded serrations, shows it is not intended to be used as a weapon. In the event of a traffic stop or other police involvement I want it as obvious as possible that this is a safety tool and not a weapon. That's part of the reason I hesitate to add a tab to make access easier. The more difficult access, and the label, hopefully demonstrates that it is not intended to be a hidden weapon. https://www.amazon.com/Smith-Wesson-SW911-Response-Rescue/dp/B0002AWQWS https://www.amazon.com/Fox-40-Whistle-Breakaway-Lanyard/dp/B000A20X32?th=1
  19. New 2018 FTC XLT Cargo Van LWB

    The microphone is behind the center grill between the two side holes. You can see it in the attached photo. There is a connector behind each hole so some option available must use them for something.
  20. New 2018 FTC XLT Cargo Van LWB

    I wasn't able to find the post, but I seem to recall somebody mentioning seeing the upfitter connector while doing some other work. As best I can recall, it was just an unused connector taped at one of the Y-splits in the wiring harness that runs along the passenger side towards the rear fuse box. I remember there being a photo posted but it didn't show much except a bulge under the black tape covering just like the rest of the harness. If there's not any more definite info by the time I special order my next TC, I am going to make sure the dealer knows ahead of time that he better be able to show me the Upfitter connections I ordered or I will assume it isn't there and I didn't get what I ordered. If I pay extra for it, the dealer better be able to prove it's installed.
  21. I have a US 2015 Transit Connect so not exactly the same, but here's mine. The photo is looking straight up from the floor mat, bottom edge of glove box is at the top of the photo. You don't actually need to remove the glove box but it does help. There is a cover that can be released to expose the fuse box. To remove the cover, you need to remove the round black pin (one on each side) seen in the photo below. Pry under the head (there are slight recessed areas seen at the roughly 11to1 and 5to7 o-clock positions) and it will pop out about 1/4 to 1/2 inch. That will let the expanded outer sides underneath to collapse and the pin can be pulled out freeing the panel to drop down. If you do much work with these type of pins, a set of push pin pliers and panel clip pliers from Harbor Freight is well worth the $20 for both. https://www.harborfreight.com/push-pin-pliers-67400.html https://www.harborfreight.com/panel-clip-pliers-67399.html They make it a lot easier to remove the pins, although access room for the tool can sometimes be an issue. On my US 2015 Transit Connect Wagon, you can remove the glove box by removing the hinge pins then tilting the box slightly so the side catches clear the sides. The hinge pins are very hard to see and I didn't figure them out until after I had cracked the plastic slots on one side. You almost have to stick your head all the way in the foot well and look almost directly up to see them. If your Euro Tourneo is the same setup, you should be able to see the black heads of the pins on the hinge ends closest to the center of the glove box. Work a pry bar or screwdriver under the heads and push them towards the middle. There is a raised area on the pins that helps lock the pin in place, but it will slid out with just a firm force. No clip to be pried or anything. That's how I cracked mine, trying to pry the raised part of the pin down into the slot thinking that would release the pin.
  22. That eBay one might technically fit once the bottom lip is cut down, but it likely wouldn't be very secure. The Ford rails rely on the crossbar mostly contacting the outside of the rail with a relatively small lip on the inside to lock it in. As you tighten the Ford crossbar, it pinches the rail by moving towards the outside at the same time it moves in the upward direction to hook under the inside lip. Here's a couple photos of the Ford rails on my 2015 TC Wagon (not tightened down) and a closeup of the clamping mechanism on the Ford crossbars. (That's 2 crossbars taped together in the photo, but you can still see the details best on the left side crossbar. The rail would roughly be where the blue tape in the background can be seen.)
  23. If you don't have the scrap plastic, a very cheap source I've used in the past for thin stiff plastic stock is cutting boards. Just a couple bucks at most local stores.
  24. When looking at how you both did your ends, a couple methods I have used in the past on other projects came to mind that you might find useful. I did a quick mockup using some junk laying around the house so I could post some photos. If you just need a straight spreader bar, a piece of PVC with eyebolts at the ends would work. I've done similar before by heating up the ends of the PVC until it softens, then inserting the nuts. If you match the PVC interior diameter to be a bit smaller than the nuts, it will hold the nuts well once it hardens. You can even bend in the edges to make it almost impossible for the nut to pull out. For even more rigidity, use a longer coupling nut instead of thin regular nut to keep the bolt aligned with the pipe better. And when attaching eye bolts to conduit without it poking out the backside, you can use one nut inside the conduit instead of two on either side. In can be a bit tricky getting the nut on the bolt, but the whole thing wedges pretty firmly into place once the end of the bolt hits the opposite interior side.
  25. Locking lugnuts....

    Unfortunately, it looks like mine have a different pattern. But here's photos with measurements of the Ford OEM nuts and removal tool. It looks like the cap is already off. One possible solution would be to use an oscillating tool to cut a slot in the end of the nut and use a very large screwdriver or flat bar stock to get it off.