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DonShockley

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Everything posted by DonShockley

  1. Here's how I added a USB power port to the overhead shelf on my 2015 TC LWB Wagon. I'll break the posts and pictures up for easier reading. I hate dangling wires so I wanted an overhead power supply for my dash cam. Rather than add yet another cigarette lighter socket for the plug in adapters that come with these type of accessories, I decided to go with a USB power port instead since they almost always use a 5v mini or micro USB plug anyway. Far more flexibility in cabling this way also instead of relying on what the manufacturer decides to supply. The First step was to remove the overhead shelf. There are four screws on each side, the two at each end of the handholds are under the covers, the other two in each side are readily visible once the visor is flipped down. As it turns out, I likely could have skipped this step since the riser piece in the middle where I wanted the power port mounted has nothing connected to it and the release tabs are all accessible with the shelf installed.
  2. Fifty150: Nothing needs to be disconnected from the bottom side of the shelf shown in your first photo. I've marked the tabs on the top center piece on top of the shelf in your second photo. If you click on the very first thumbnail at the top of this thread, it will pop up a larger version that shows the center piece unclipped and flipped over so you can see how both sides of the tab clips are constructed.
  3. I decided to convert my 2015 TC LWB Wagon into a Van. I got the Wagon because of the incentives, the 6 month or more delay on a custom Van order, and the Wagon had most of the features I wanted to customize a Van with. But my lifestyle rarely involves a single passenger, and never a need for 7, so the seats were more of a hindrance than a benefit. Although the flat deck provided with both rows folded is the best implementation of cargo duty in a passenger vehicle I’ve seen, I wanted more space and storage. So I set about a slow conversion process, trying things for a few days until the next improvement necessary became apparent. I’ve waited until the process seemed to be pretty final before writing this up to share. I’ll try to hit the highlights in the photos and descriptions below. But here’s the final result.
  4. I used M10-1.50 x 70mm bolts. The fit but were longer than needed. M10-1.50 x 60mm would probably be closer to matching the stock bolts protrusion under the floor. I had to go to the local fastener supply store, not big box DIY store, and special order them. I got ones with countersunk heads that used an allen key for a smoother floor.
  5. It wasn't very difficult to line up the holes to use the existing threaded holes. There are dimensions listed in the pdf drawings in the earlier post. With the larger cutouts in the existing flooring there is room to move the end of the bolt around if there is a slight misalignment of the holes.
  6. The only reference I found in the wiring book for my 2015 TC XLT is direct Video +,-,shield wiring to Sync Module. So it looks like #2 is the setup, not #1.
  7. Nothing with the ECU, but I do notice that radio programming gets confused a lot. I use the Aux input frequently and it seems to mix up the Line In and USB with random effects. Listening on Line in and display shows USB, or just switches from Line In to USB by itself. Last night was a new one, told me Line In couldn't be used while USB was in use. Not sure of the cause and no apparent commonality of occurence. But using button controls to switch to radio and then Sync voice command to get back to Line In or USB has worked each time so far. With new cars being esentially small computer networks on wheels with seperate modules for each function, I'm sure we'll see more and more of these random glitch type of failures. Hopefully, car makers will take a page out of the computer makers playbook and add some kind of protected program image. Rather than be stranded like you were and having a week long repair, at least you could attempt a "Restore and Reboot" when a major program fault is detected.
  8. Here's a salvage yard in Asheville, NC http://www.johnsonncusa.com/
  9. My 2015 has the 60/40 bench but I pulled the 2nd and 3rd row and put a wood platform covering everything from liftgate right up to the front seats. I found some flat bins at Walmart that could slide in from the sides with the doors open. And the 60/40 seems to have less smooth space than what your photo seems to show so it should work even better there. I had to make some strange shape foam fillers to get everything flat enough to support the bins sliding in and out smoothly. I did a writeup on my mods if you need more details or photos.
  10. Bright yellow adjuster right on top. One of the best designs for ease of adjustment I've come across. And the knob takes hex keys or has screwdriver slots in the bottom of the hex recess. Here's a photo of it on my 2015 TC
  11. The biggest reason I didn't go that route was to minimize the risk of damage to the existing systems. This newer wiring / control system uses a lot of distributed modules and low power signals that are more susceptible to overloading damage. Running power from an unused high power fuse tap ensured that risk of damaging the main CPU or any of the aux modules was minimal. BTW, I did go back and add a power port too. Haven't needed it yet, but at least it's there now.
  12. Yes, you will need to run seperate power up there. Personally, I added an accessory source behind the glove box that I tapped for power. But there is a convenient pass through to the engine compartment to run a wire directly to the battery. It's at the base of the A-pillar, behind the foam you can see in the second post / third photo of the write up I did for this project a couple years ago. I have both a 12V outlet and a USB power source for dashcam, etc. up there.
  13. Personally, I see a couple drawbacks the the Yeti. Primarily the proprietary battery packs and questionable ability to get replacements in the future. BTW: the 10-12 months mentioned earlier seems to be talking about the standby time without self discharge of the li-ion batteries, not the life of the pack itself. Although I don't have need of portable power, I did see something that might work better. Of course each solution has it's own advantages and disadvantages and which is best will depend upon your particular needs and use scenario. You could get the same power capacity for only $1300 with the Dewalt Power Station and eight replacable DCB609 Batteries (9Ah @ 20v = 180 Wh). The same $2000 would give you 50% more run time with 4 more batteries. The overall max capacity is acually larger at 1800W, and runtime limited only by number of easily replacable batteries you have charged. And there is a DC powered charger for the batteries that would work with the solar panel. The manual available online doesn't show a way to power the whole station directly from the solar panel, but it will charge 4 batteries at a time (3 hrs to full) when connected to AC power. So it would only take 6 hrs to charge the two sets of 4 batteries as opposed to 25 hrs on the Yeti. And since the dewalt batteries are the standard ones used for all their power tools, they are sure to be available in the future if one goes bad after a few hundred recharge cycles. And it would be much cheaper to replace just one instead of the whole pack. Another couple comparison issues to consider: One potential issue is new engineering. The Yeti battery pack looks like new engineering with relatively untested design and longevity. The Dewalt batteries are already several years old with millions being tested daily for reliability. Second, since the Dewalt system uses tool batteries they could be used for that purpose if you have/puchase the tools needed. And there are a lot of varied tools using these batteries, some of which might also be useful when camping. Here's a demonstration video for the Dewalt Power Station
  14. On the SWB, the second row seats flip forward against the back of the front row. On the LWB, the second row seats partially fold into a recess in the floor. The third row fold flat against the floor and has panels that flip to cover the gap between the first and second rows so the end result is a totally flat surface about 6 inches above the actual floor with both rows folded. On the wagon, there are trim panels covering the wheel wells, the AC ducts, and the wiring along both walls. On my 2015, the distance between the panels is about 47 inches and the distance from the second row at the headrest to the liftgate is about 45 inches. Here's the most recent Body Builder's Layout Book which has diagrams that you can see the seats and floor layouts with lots of dimensions: https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/topics/2017/2017_Transit_Connect_v1-0.pdf
  15. A simple but more permanent and drastic solution, AND NOT ONE I WOULD RECOMMEND, would be to cut and cap the power wire to the sensors. I only mention it because I know some people are more willing to go the quick, simple, but harder to repair route than I am comfortable doing. Here's the wiring diagram for my 2015. The power wire for my 2015 is the Blue-White one on pin 5 of the connector.
  16. There is a connector for the sensors behind the passenger side rear wheel that you could try disconnecting. That may work to silence the alarm but may give a failure warning. Just guessing here, not an expert. If you do disconnect it, make sure to protect the ends against moisture since you won't have the water seal anymore. Here's some photos of my 2015 showing the connector. The live end of the connector could probably be moved back to the interior of the vehicle through that grommet you see the flat trailer wire coming out of in the photo. You could also remove the sensors from the bumper entirely to protect them, but that would leave holes. Or you cold do a halfway solution and disconnect the wiring only at the individual sensors being triggered if it's just the hitch step in the middle triggering the center sensors and not the entire bumper length triggering them all. You can see the sensor connectors and how they are just held in by plastic tabs in the photos.
  17. Grounding in the headliner should work fine.
  18. When I purchased my 2015 Transit Connect Wagon, the dealer said it would be no problem to add a couple extra circuits for accessories at one of the fuse boxes. After working my way through several sales and service staff members, the “wiring specialist” finally determined that what I wanted was not possible since the spare fuse slots have no connections on the load side (see F43 at top left in photo below) and Ford won’t supply the parts to add them. So in the end I had to come up with my own solution. And knowing wiring but not cars, my first purchase was the wiring diagram book. I may not know how everything shown in it works, but I can make sure I only tie into something I can see documented and feel confident I understand. Initially I tried the basic auto store inline fuse holders with converted fuse legs as power taps. Although the connections were pretty good quality, strong silver solder and multiple layers of heat shrink, I didn’t like the holders just hanging loose and there were too many potential failure points. So after some searching I found some parts that make for a nice clean, almost bulletproof, wiring harness for accessories. I’ll apologize in advance for the length of this post up and I'll try to break it up into readable sections with a few photos each. I know I have a tendency to overdo the story telling, but I wanted to share what I learned along the way and why I chose to do it that way in the hopes it helps others with similar projects.
  19. Probably since they are the same generation / design. But I can't say so from personal experience.They do make some changes year to year but probably nothing big enough to change the floor physical layout.
  20. Here's how I did it. Rather than trying to change my sockets to switched, and since I was needing the power in the overhead shelf area instead of down low on the console, I added extra connections to the overhead shelf and tapped the power from spare switched fuse locations. For convenience, I added a small accessory fuse box behind the glove box. Then used that for all my future add-ons. The link below is for when I added USB outlets, but at the end added an additional 12V sockets. That topic has links to the other stages of the build.
  21. Found it! IIRC, the large grey one was for the microphone. The smaller black single and double connectors were the ones for the light, similar to the earlier center light photo I posted with them connected. The black loom is the power wires I added.
  22. Looks like there's a ground on that 9040 connector. And here's the drawing for the front area lights. I'm still trying to locate a photo from my earlier build showing the connecter I had to pull apart to remove the shelf.
  23. OOPS, looks like I misunderstood your original post. I thought you were looking for one to fit the optional shelf behind the front seats. I realised my mistake when you mentioned the visors. I had the entire shelf removed in mine when I added USB and power ports to the overhead shelf. The connector the the light there was right inside the recess behind the raised portion i the center. It's possible yours doesn't have it due to the moonroof / suroof controls mentioned in the description for that C9040 connector in the same area. It might be hard to tap those wires for the right signal. It looks like the manual switch uses a ground wire and a door switched wire to activate. While the C903/908/932 just have power and dimmer circuit connections.