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DonShockley

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Everything posted by DonShockley

  1. Grounding in the headliner should work fine.
  2. When I purchased my 2015 Transit Connect Wagon, the dealer said it would be no problem to add a couple extra circuits for accessories at one of the fuse boxes. After working my way through several sales and service staff members, the “wiring specialist” finally determined that what I wanted was not possible since the spare fuse slots have no connections on the load side (see F43 at top left in photo below) and Ford won’t supply the parts to add them. So in the end I had to come up with my own solution. And knowing wiring but not cars, my first purchase was the wiring diagram book. I may not know how everything shown in it works, but I can make sure I only tie into something I can see documented and feel confident I understand. Initially I tried the basic auto store inline fuse holders with converted fuse legs as power taps. Although the connections were pretty good quality, strong silver solder and multiple layers of heat shrink, I didn’t like the holders just hanging loose and there were too many potential failure points. So after some searching I found some parts that make for a nice clean, almost bulletproof, wiring harness for accessories. I’ll apologize in advance for the length of this post up and I'll try to break it up into readable sections with a few photos each. I know I have a tendency to overdo the story telling, but I wanted to share what I learned along the way and why I chose to do it that way in the hopes it helps others with similar projects.
  3. Probably since they are the same generation / design. But I can't say so from personal experience.They do make some changes year to year but probably nothing big enough to change the floor physical layout.
  4. I decided to convert my 2015 TC LWB Wagon into a Van. I got the Wagon because of the incentives, the 6 month or more delay on a custom Van order, and the Wagon had most of the features I wanted to customize a Van with. But my lifestyle rarely involves a single passenger, and never a need for 7, so the seats were more of a hindrance than a benefit. Although the flat deck provided with both rows folded is the best implementation of cargo duty in a passenger vehicle I’ve seen, I wanted more space and storage. So I set about a slow conversion process, trying things for a few days until the next improvement necessary became apparent. I’ve waited until the process seemed to be pretty final before writing this up to share. I’ll try to hit the highlights in the photos and descriptions below. But here’s the final result.
  5. Here's how I did it. Rather than trying to change my sockets to switched, and since I was needing the power in the overhead shelf area instead of down low on the console, I added extra connections to the overhead shelf and tapped the power from spare switched fuse locations. For convenience, I added a small accessory fuse box behind the glove box. Then used that for all my future add-ons. The link below is for when I added USB outlets, but at the end added an additional 12V sockets. That topic has links to the other stages of the build.
  6. Found it! IIRC, the large grey one was for the microphone. The smaller black single and double connectors were the ones for the light, similar to the earlier center light photo I posted with them connected. The black loom is the power wires I added.
  7. Looks like there's a ground on that 9040 connector. And here's the drawing for the front area lights. I'm still trying to locate a photo from my earlier build showing the connecter I had to pull apart to remove the shelf.
  8. OOPS, looks like I misunderstood your original post. I thought you were looking for one to fit the optional shelf behind the front seats. I realised my mistake when you mentioned the visors. I had the entire shelf removed in mine when I added USB and power ports to the overhead shelf. The connector the the light there was right inside the recess behind the raised portion i the center. It's possible yours doesn't have it due to the moonroof / suroof controls mentioned in the description for that C9040 connector in the same area. It might be hard to tap those wires for the right signal. It looks like the manual switch uses a ground wire and a door switched wire to activate. While the C903/908/932 just have power and dimmer circuit connections.
  9. Looks like all 3 connectors for the roof open wiring are a connector with a single row of 6 terminals, at each light.
  10. AHHH! Give me a minute and I'll post some pics of the pages for the wiring pages for cars with the roof opening....
  11. I don't know if any of this will be of any help since it's from my 2015 XLT and wiring book. Although not an exact match, it looks like the closest similar connector is the one labeled C936 in the 2015 diagrams. In the 2015 it's a 6 pin connector (2 rows of 3) instead of the single row 5 pin connector in the photo above. But if that's it and it's in a similar location as the 2015, it should be in the headliner above the passenger seat headrest. My XLT has two headliner panels joined in this area.
  12. I used to buy component LEDs from them back around 2008 or so when the only way to get a really bright LED flashlight was to build one. Never had a problem back then and the LEDs were good quality.
  13. I would think carefully about where you use spray foam, assuming you mean the DIY stuff in the single can. It doesn't work well if sprayed into sealed areas like metal or plastic cavities. I learned the hard way that the foam needs tobe able to "off gas" freely or the pressure builds up and the foam collapses and reliquifies. If sprayed into enclosed areas through small access points, the foam sets first at the openings which prevents the gas escaping the foam underneath so the pressure builds back up. The end result is either a hard solid mass of collapsed foam settled in the low spots, or if the seal is very good the foam liquid can spill out later and refoam if you cut into the sealed area. I had this happen on a project where I initially used the foam outside and then brought it inside to finish. The foam spilled all over the floor when the sealed pocket was drilled into. If you need to fill large voids with the DIY foam, make sure there is plenty of expansion room for the foam, let set for at least a day, then trim back and seal the surface with wood, drywall, etc. If you need to fill a sealed area, you need to try to find a kit that generates the foam by mixing two different chemicals. Those foams shouldn't suffer from the pressure buildup and foam collapse problem since it's a chemical reaction that creates / sets the foam.
  14. The pins may have been on the third row seats instead of the second. Thinking back 2 years ago I just recall initially thinking I had missed some bolts when it seemed stuck as I initially tried to lift it out. But it was because I was pulling at a bit of an angle and the pins were jamming in place. Once I lifted straight up to get the pins clear, it came right out.
  15. I have mine on the floor just in front ot the drivers seat. I have the seat positioned all the way to the rear and rarely need to adjust it so there's room right in front of the slide adjustment handle. The extinguicher was bought at an auto parts store so the supplied bracket included coarse velro intended to grab the carpeting. It works well at holding it in place yet can be easily removed if I do need to move the seat.
  16. My 2015 LWB TC is dead flat with both second and third row folded. And I just have the weathertech mat now, although for the first 2 years I had the seats fully removed and a more solid plywood and rubber floor installed. One potential cause of the seats staying 2" high may be not being fully latched in the lowered position. You should need to give it a little push down at the end to get it to latch, And there's a bit too much play in the mechanism as it is lowered so sometimes you need to move it slightly to get the latch to line up correctly. If you can lift the seat back up without pulling the handle, your seat latch didn't engage. If you want to see the results with the seats removed you can check out the thread where I documented my project. It will get you an extra 6" of cargo height. If you have someone to help swap seats and plywood floor, it takes less than 30 minutes to do the swap and just takes 4 bolts per seat. It's a bit harder for me alone, but still doable. Wrangling a 4x7 foot sheet of plywood in and out is a bit of a challenge for one person.
  17. Not quite what you are looking for, but about the only similar thing I've found for the TC. https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/topics/2016/2016_Transit_Connect_v1-0.pdf
  18. I've apparently assumed the identities of "Loafer" and "Unusual1", both strangely appropriate. Whatever is going on, it's totally messing up the ability to find and read new content.
  19. This is the source I was looking at when I considered adding similar rails to my 2015 TC http://www.uscargocontrol.com/Ratchet-Straps-Tie-Downs/Airline-Straps-Hardware
  20. You need both of these Ford Accessories for the full tow hookup. Hitch and wiring kit are seperate. I had it done on my 2015 as part of the purchase deal. https://accessories.ford.com/vehicles/transit-connect/2017/exterior/trailer-towing.html One note: the hitch replaces the stock rear bumper support. So if you think you'll ever remove the hitch, make sure to get the removed bumper support returned to you after the install. I didn't find out that part until several weeks after the job, so my bumper support was long gone. I don't plan to remove the hitch, but it would be nice to have the parts if needed.
  21. I took both second and third row seats out of my 2015 TC. Just four T50 bolts per seat. Third row has one bolt at each corner. Second row has two bolts at the front of each seat side rail. No tricks on the third row other than sliding the seat forward and back to access the bolts at each end. Second row just remove bolts with seat unfolded, then fold down and latch seat before trying to remove. There is a locating pin on the bottom of each rail, so pull straight up until that pin is out.
  22. I've noticed that several times the people offering the seats were from shops that do wheelchair mods on the TC, you may want to see if there are any of those type shops near you and inquire there.
  23. That's the boat!
  24. If these look like what you mean, and the post size is about right, I can hook you up with a couple free. I have leftovers from when I did my project. But I did have to find the right size existing holes in the bodywork to use. IIRC I got them on eBay because I'm not seeing them in my Amazon history.
  25. r1alvin I know it would be a bit of a drive from Allen down to Belton, but I just reinstalled the seats in mine so I won't need the deck I made. If you want it free it's yours for the taking. Rubber mat, mounting bolts, and installation wrench included. Just let me know if you want it.