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DonShockley

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Everything posted by DonShockley

  1. Adapter pads are only $10 for 2. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WRMSHP2?psc=1
  2. Weathertech My 2015 TC Wagon had some pins to anchor the factory mats. The Weathertech came with some dircular fittings that clamped to these and there is a recess in the bottom the the WT mat that fits over that fitting. Really secure, no sliding, and takes an effort to lift the WT mat off the fitting.
  3. Reversing light wire colour

    Here's the page from the wiring manual for my 2015 TC. If your 2016 is the same, it should be Blue/White.
  4. Although it is listed under the Bounce Back feature instead of the One-Touch Up feature, it does mention needing to reset after a battery disconnect and to repeat the procedure if the window does not close automatically. It probably won't hurt to try. (From page 74/75 of my 2015 TC owners manual ) If you have disconnected the battery, you must reset the bounce-back memory separately for each window. 1. Lift and hold the control until the window is fully closed. 2. Release the control. 3. Lift and hold the control again for a few seconds. 4. Release the control. 5. Lift and hold the control again for a few seconds. 6. Release the control. 7. Press and hold the control until the window is fully open. 8. Lift and hold the control until the window is fully closed. 9. Release the control. 10. Open the window and then try to close it automatically. 11. Repeat the procedure if the window does not close automatically.
  5. From the album 2015 TC LWB Wagon Modifications

    Original install used Auto Store fuse holders and had additional soldered splices and mini fuse leg tap. Replaced with manufactured parts allowing fuse holders to be directly connected at wire ends.
  6. 2015 TC LWB Wagon Modifications

    Modifications: 1. Added FZ-1 FuzeBlock behind glove box for accessory wiring. 2. Added USB power port to overhead shelf. 3. Remove seats, build flat cargo floor.
  7. From the album 2015 TC LWB Wagon Modifications

    All crimping and installation done in advance, ready to install at any vehicle fuse box with open mini-fuse and 1/4"-tab slots. Ready to attach user wiring at terminal strip. (Grounds made seperately)
  8. From the album 2015 TC LWB Wagon Modifications

    Mocked up installation of add-on fuse connector and terminal strip for adding accessory circuits. Note: no ground connections on terminal strip as was later done during actual installation.
  9. From the album 2015 TC LWB Wagon Modifications

    Originally used Auto Store fuseholders to supply power to FZ-1 accessory fuse block installed behind glove compartment. Worked fine but all the soldered splices and shrink wrap gave a somewhat sloppy appearance.
  10. I decided to convert my 2015 TC LWB Wagon into a Van. I got the Wagon because of the incentives, the 6 month or more delay on a custom Van order, and the Wagon had most of the features I wanted to customize a Van with. But my lifestyle rarely involves a single passenger, and never a need for 7, so the seats were more of a hindrance than a benefit. Although the flat deck provided with both rows folded is the best implementation of cargo duty in a passenger vehicle I’ve seen, I wanted more space and storage. So I set about a slow conversion process, trying things for a few days until the next improvement necessary became apparent. I’ve waited until the process seemed to be pretty final before writing this up to share. I’ll try to hit the highlights in the photos and descriptions below. But here’s the final result.
  11. Converted 2015 LWB Wagon into a Van

    The side panels in the rear just pull off. It would probably help if you pulled off the top vertical pieces at the rear, since they overlap the bottom pieces slightly. But I didn't and got them off fairly easily. Most of the attachments are just those little plastic pins. There is a bit of a hook fitting at those rear pillars, I forget which piece has the hook and which has the slot. But it just takes a little flexing to get it loose. The hard part is the reinstallation and making sure you have all the pins restarted in the holes before slapping the panel down. I didn't and broke a pin but found replacements on eBay.
  12. Converted 2015 LWB Wagon into a Van

    Yes, there are just a some T50 (if I remember correctly) headed bolts at each corner. The front ones are easy to access just by pulling the plug fasteners and lifting the carpet. In my case I was only removing the center mount, so reaching the back ones was harder since the carpet was still attached at the front corners by the trim on the side mounts. But I left those installed primarily to protect the plastic trim. And it had little effect on usability. The side mounts actually provided nice extra mounting points for anchor straps. I used a T-handled ratchet wrench that allows operating it from the end instead of swinging which is what kept the frustration of installing/removing those center mount bolts down to a tolerable level. The carpet only lifts enough to get one arm in to reach the bolts. But if you are pulling the side mounts also and lift and fold back the entire front section of the carpet, access will be much easier even though removing the plastic trim will involve extra work. I was planning on removing the seats again and reinstalling the plywood floor on my vacation which is in it's last 2 days right now. But I never got around to it out of sheer laziness and some light rain. But when I do, I plan to leave the center mount in place and add an extra cutout to allow for it. That will greatly simplify swapping back and forth since rinstalling that mount was the only hard part about putting the seats back in. Once I run with that for a while and see how it works, I'm going to look at maybe re-doing it as the 3-piece folding design I thought of afterwards. I still need to ask the folks across the street for help getting the single piece design moved in and out since it requires tipping at an angle and holding it that way as you slide it in/out.
  13. Clarification to my last post since it won't let me edit it: My selfmade diagram is the one on the right in the last photo. The S405 connector is in the top left of that add-in page. Did some more looking, that S405 connector looks to be near the left tailight and the 4397ABC connectors near the right taillight. Here's some photos I took back in 2015 when I was doing my project that show the area where the 4397ABC connectors should be and it doesn't look like they are present. But then again these photos weren't taken while looking for them.
  14. Here's the sections from my 2015 diagram and the connectors look to fit that same module. BTW: That taped in diagram on the last photo is a diagram I created by reading the Ford instructions for tha accessory add-in trailer wiring kit and noting where the wires are tapped into the existing circuits. If you look at the top right of that diagram, the S405 connection that I whited out to make room for my sketch is the same S405 connection on page 95-1 of the middle photo and provides the stop signal from the BCM to the module.
  15. Back up camera angle changed

    I had a similar thing happen with my 2015 shortly after I bought it, although not with the symbols showing up. I had it checked for a broken mount or other failure at the next service and was told nothing was wrong, and it hasn't changed since. I think it might have been an issue with the parts seating during assembly. I'm just guessing here, but it seems like the camera may have been slightly misaligned during assembly and then settled in after a little bit of driving due to road vibration or a couple slam shuts of the liftgate. Then again, the dealer may have just blown me off and never checked it. But it doesn't seem to be shifting any more, so it may be normal.
  16. When I was researching this topic while considering doing a special order before I got my 2015 I was similarly stumped for info. I did find a few references and apparently it's just a small section coming off the existing wiring harness and left tucked away out of sight. But I never could find any specifics or photos. No idea if it's just bare wires or has a connector that can be easily added on to. But apparently it doesn't include the switches and such like the similar option on the full size connects (which I found plenty of info on). I remember thinking that I would need to make sure the dealer showed me it's location upon delivery if I did do a special order, which I didn't end up doing. I suggest you make sure to press the location issue when you get yours. Better to have them popping off panels, digging around, or trying to get the factory to answer the "Where the hell is that thing?" question. And please post photos and any other info you can once you get your vehicle. As far as I recall seeing, you'll be the first user here with any first hand experience with this option.
  17. E85 regular users?

    Here's another excerpt from an article on Popular Mechanics: But here's the simple math for the gas-pumping consumer: The E10 many of us pump (which is 10 percent ethanol) has about 30,500 calories per gallon, while E85 has just 22,900 calories per gallon. And even though E85 contains 25 percent less energy per gallon, it's generally only about 10 percent less expensive. Indeed, owners of flex-fuel vehicles report losing about a quarter of their gas mileage when running on E85, so I think it doesn't make sense to fill up my own car with the stuff at current prices. http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/hybrid-electric/a7263/the-one-time-it-makes-clear-sense-to-buy-e85/
  18. E85 regular users?

    According to the Alternative Fuels Data Center of the US Energy department: "1 gallon of E85 has 73% to 83% of the energy of one gallon of gasoline...." https://www.afdc.energy.gov/fuels/fuel_comparison_chart.pdf So although it costs 12% more, you are getting 17-27% more energy in your E10 - regular gas. More energy per gallon is almost guaranteed to give you better milage. Higher alcohol content is also more corrosive and absorbs more moisture and the potential damaging effects are why vehicles have to be specifically designed to be able to use E85. Even though they may be designed to be safe for E85, my personal opinion is that I think it would still be less wear/damage to use lower alcohol blends.
  19. Here's the 4 pages from the headlight section of my 2015 wiring manual
  20. Factory red grease in the side door rails

    The grease is needed. The minimal wear caused by trapped dirt will be nothing compared to the wear without lubrication. When I bought my 2015 the I asked about the preventive lubing of the slide rails and it was suggested I use white lithium spray grease. The nice thing is that it dries to a thin white film that doesn't seem to build up or attract dirt, at least that I can see. I leave the can in the door pocket of the drivers side slider as a reminder to use it. I try to give the rails a spray every couple months on the drivers side and about twice a year on the passenger side since I rarely use that one.
  21. I laid the crossbar in position (not tightened down) for this photo. Ruler still bottomed out in recessed area for rail.
  22. Here's a photo from my 2015 with factory rails. The ruler is bottomed out in the channel for this photo. I didn't have the cross bars between the rails installed, but measuring them seperately adds about 2-1/2" above the rail.
  23. A Pillar Trim

    It should just pop off. I accidentally popped it partway off when trying to add some protective loom to the power wire for the trailer module. I just gave it a tap and it reseated. But I didn't ever take it all the way off so I can't speak to what type of connection is underneath.
  24. That's the one I was thinking of getting to replace my existing ratchet crimpers. I have way too many tools. Somebody once asked if there was any tool I didn't have and my reply was "Only the first time." Assorted sources, HF / Craftsman, etc. I tend to go HF on infrequent or one time use items, expecially if they are special purpose ones. It's the only affordable solution for lots of jobs. But quality tools can really make a difference in ease, efficiency, and longevity of repairs.
  25. A second advantage to ratchet crimpers is that the dies used in the ratchet crimpers often do multiple crimps at once. The bare wire connection needs one size/style of crimp and the insulated area of the wire needs a different size/style crimp. For example, the Weather Pack connector has that B shaped crimp on the wire and an O shaped crimp around the weather seal. The cheap scissor style crimper has two holes for doing these crimps in two steps and getting the tool place in the right spot on the terminal makes a big difference. The tool width also has to be sized for the thinnest depth of any of the multiple openings. The die on the more expensive ratchet tool does both crimps at the same time with each being the appropriate type, width, and spacing needed. So you can have deeper crimp areas on larger wires to hold them better, and smaller crimp areas on smaller wires and terminals.
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