Welcome to the Ford Transit Forum

Welcome to the Ford Transit Connect Forum - the largest Ford Transit forum discussion board.  Like most online communities, you must register to post and take advantage of other features that this community has to offer, but don't worry this is a simple free process that requires minimal information for you to signup. Be apart of Ford Transit Connect Forum by signing in or creating an account.
• Receive special product discounts
• Invitations to events
• Start new topics and reply to others
• Subscribe to topics and forums to get email updates
• Get your own profile page and make new friends
• Send personal messages to other members
• Create an album and post photos. . .More!

Click here to create an account now.



T.C. Member
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


DonShockley last won the day on July 20

DonShockley had the most liked content!

About DonShockley

  • Rank
    Transit Connect Member

Profile Information

  • Region
    U.S. Southern Plains
  • Location
  • Current Vehicle
    2015 TC LWB Wagon XLT

Recent Profile Visitors

1,211 profile views
  1. Fifty150: Nothing needs to be disconnected from the bottom side of the shelf shown in your first photo. I've marked the tabs on the top center piece on top of the shelf in your second photo. If you click on the very first thumbnail at the top of this thread, it will pop up a larger version that shows the center piece unclipped and flipped over so you can see how both sides of the tab clips are constructed.
  2. I used M10-1.50 x 70mm bolts. The fit but were longer than needed. M10-1.50 x 60mm would probably be closer to matching the stock bolts protrusion under the floor. I had to go to the local fastener supply store, not big box DIY store, and special order them. I got ones with countersunk heads that used an allen key for a smoother floor.
  3. It wasn't very difficult to line up the holes to use the existing threaded holes. There are dimensions listed in the pdf drawings in the earlier post. With the larger cutouts in the existing flooring there is room to move the end of the bolt around if there is a slight misalignment of the holes.
  4. The only reference I found in the wiring book for my 2015 TC XLT is direct Video +,-,shield wiring to Sync Module. So it looks like #2 is the setup, not #1.
  5. Nothing with the ECU, but I do notice that radio programming gets confused a lot. I use the Aux input frequently and it seems to mix up the Line In and USB with random effects. Listening on Line in and display shows USB, or just switches from Line In to USB by itself. Last night was a new one, told me Line In couldn't be used while USB was in use. Not sure of the cause and no apparent commonality of occurence. But using button controls to switch to radio and then Sync voice command to get back to Line In or USB has worked each time so far. With new cars being esentially small computer networks on wheels with seperate modules for each function, I'm sure we'll see more and more of these random glitch type of failures. Hopefully, car makers will take a page out of the computer makers playbook and add some kind of protected program image. Rather than be stranded like you were and having a week long repair, at least you could attempt a "Restore and Reboot" when a major program fault is detected.
  6. Here's a salvage yard in Asheville, NC http://www.johnsonncusa.com/
  7. My 2015 has the 60/40 bench but I pulled the 2nd and 3rd row and put a wood platform covering everything from liftgate right up to the front seats. I found some flat bins at Walmart that could slide in from the sides with the doors open. And the 60/40 seems to have less smooth space than what your photo seems to show so it should work even better there. I had to make some strange shape foam fillers to get everything flat enough to support the bins sliding in and out smoothly. I did a writeup on my mods if you need more details or photos.
  8. Bright yellow adjuster right on top. One of the best designs for ease of adjustment I've come across. And the knob takes hex keys or has screwdriver slots in the bottom of the hex recess. Here's a photo of it on my 2015 TC
  9. The biggest reason I didn't go that route was to minimize the risk of damage to the existing systems. This newer wiring / control system uses a lot of distributed modules and low power signals that are more susceptible to overloading damage. Running power from an unused high power fuse tap ensured that risk of damaging the main CPU or any of the aux modules was minimal. BTW, I did go back and add a power port too. Haven't needed it yet, but at least it's there now.
  10. Yes, you will need to run seperate power up there. Personally, I added an accessory source behind the glove box that I tapped for power. But there is a convenient pass through to the engine compartment to run a wire directly to the battery. It's at the base of the A-pillar, behind the foam you can see in the second post / third photo of the write up I did for this project a couple years ago. I have both a 12V outlet and a USB power source for dashcam, etc. up there.
  11. Personally, I see a couple drawbacks the the Yeti. Primarily the proprietary battery packs and questionable ability to get replacements in the future. BTW: the 10-12 months mentioned earlier seems to be talking about the standby time without self discharge of the li-ion batteries, not the life of the pack itself. Although I don't have need of portable power, I did see something that might work better. Of course each solution has it's own advantages and disadvantages and which is best will depend upon your particular needs and use scenario. You could get the same power capacity for only $1300 with the Dewalt Power Station and eight replacable DCB609 Batteries (9Ah @ 20v = 180 Wh). The same $2000 would give you 50% more run time with 4 more batteries. The overall max capacity is acually larger at 1800W, and runtime limited only by number of easily replacable batteries you have charged. And there is a DC powered charger for the batteries that would work with the solar panel. The manual available online doesn't show a way to power the whole station directly from the solar panel, but it will charge 4 batteries at a time (3 hrs to full) when connected to AC power. So it would only take 6 hrs to charge the two sets of 4 batteries as opposed to 25 hrs on the Yeti. And since the dewalt batteries are the standard ones used for all their power tools, they are sure to be available in the future if one goes bad after a few hundred recharge cycles. And it would be much cheaper to replace just one instead of the whole pack. Another couple comparison issues to consider: One potential issue is new engineering. The Yeti battery pack looks like new engineering with relatively untested design and longevity. The Dewalt batteries are already several years old with millions being tested daily for reliability. Second, since the Dewalt system uses tool batteries they could be used for that purpose if you have/puchase the tools needed. And there are a lot of varied tools using these batteries, some of which might also be useful when camping. Here's a demonstration video for the Dewalt Power Station
  12. On the SWB, the second row seats flip forward against the back of the front row. On the LWB, the second row seats partially fold into a recess in the floor. The third row fold flat against the floor and has panels that flip to cover the gap between the first and second rows so the end result is a totally flat surface about 6 inches above the actual floor with both rows folded. On the wagon, there are trim panels covering the wheel wells, the AC ducts, and the wiring along both walls. On my 2015, the distance between the panels is about 47 inches and the distance from the second row at the headrest to the liftgate is about 45 inches. Here's the most recent Body Builder's Layout Book which has diagrams that you can see the seats and floor layouts with lots of dimensions: https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/topics/2017/2017_Transit_Connect_v1-0.pdf
  13. A simple but more permanent and drastic solution, AND NOT ONE I WOULD RECOMMEND, would be to cut and cap the power wire to the sensors. I only mention it because I know some people are more willing to go the quick, simple, but harder to repair route than I am comfortable doing. Here's the wiring diagram for my 2015. The power wire for my 2015 is the Blue-White one on pin 5 of the connector.