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DonShockley last won the day on October 16 2017

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About DonShockley

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  1. #1 is normal, and annoying. You never know for sure if it locked. You can hit the lock twice to trigger the "here's your car" horn honk if you really need an acknowledgement that the car is receiving your fob commands.
  2. 3rd row - 2 seats only?

    Narrower clearance between the rear wheel wells is the primary reason. Also, the third row is flat mounted while the second row mounts to the recessed area with the rear edge supported on the higher portion where the 3rd row seats mount. Even if the 2nd row fit between the wheel wells, the brackets on the second row wouldn't have any support right where all the weight is when in the raised position.
  3. D ring anchor installation.

    This guide may help some: https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/non-html/2011_Transit_Connect_v1.3.pdf Looks like the black portion is a drop in cover for the seat recess so should be clear underneath. (page 7)
  4. New Digital Tire Inflator with Pressure Gauge

    I use a similar inflator except mine has an analog gage. What I like is not having to hold everything in place. The chuck locks on and you can stand up fairly straight, just squeeze to inflate, pause and check the pressure, add more or deflate as needed. And only once the pressure is correct, disconnect and move to the next tire.
  5. New 2018 FTC XLT Cargo Van LWB

    There's an SW911 seatbelt cutter and a safety whistle in there. I started putting them in all my vehicles after an incident I saw in the news when I was younger. An elderly lady got ran off the road by another driver and her car ended up in a large group of bushes just off the road. Police were searching her travel path for a week or so with no luck finding her. Eventually an officer noticed a discolored section of bushes, as the broken branches from the crash started to die off, and investigated. The woman was found, severely dehydrated but alive. She had heard the searchers calling for her just yards away during the earlier searches but they couldn't hear her calling out weakly. The news story mentioned how a whistle and seatbelt cutter would have let her signal for help. In the past I have used the whistle lanyard to attach both to the base of the seatbelt latch. That way they aren't likely to fly too far away in a crash and can be retrieved while still in the driver's seat. When I was working on my TC and saw the unused chamber (for sunglass storage option not included on my TC), I figured it was a good use of this space. The fixed cover was a bit hard to get off, and might be again in a crash, but is doable with just your fingernails. I've debated about adding a pull tab of other aid but have left it alone so far. The label was primarily for passengers but also a reminder for myself. I've been known to accidentally hide things from myself when I put them someplace that makes sense at the time but don't do that same thought process when I go looling for them. I only remember why I put it there after I find it. And since these tools will hopefully never get touched, out of sight out of mind is a real risk. I like the SW911 because it's a versatile prying and cutting tool but the design, blunt tip and rounded serrations, shows it is not intended to be used as a weapon. In the event of a traffic stop or other police involvement I want it as obvious as possible that this is a safety tool and not a weapon. That's part of the reason I hesitate to add a tab to make access easier. The more difficult access, and the label, hopefully demonstrates that it is not intended to be a hidden weapon. https://www.amazon.com/Smith-Wesson-SW911-Response-Rescue/dp/B0002AWQWS https://www.amazon.com/Fox-40-Whistle-Breakaway-Lanyard/dp/B000A20X32?th=1
  6. New 2018 FTC XLT Cargo Van LWB

    The microphone is behind the center grill between the two side holes. You can see it in the attached photo. There is a connector behind each hole so some option available must use them for something.
  7. New 2018 FTC XLT Cargo Van LWB

    I wasn't able to find the post, but I seem to recall somebody mentioning seeing the upfitter connector while doing some other work. As best I can recall, it was just an unused connector taped at one of the Y-splits in the wiring harness that runs along the passenger side towards the rear fuse box. I remember there being a photo posted but it didn't show much except a bulge under the black tape covering just like the rest of the harness. If there's not any more definite info by the time I special order my next TC, I am going to make sure the dealer knows ahead of time that he better be able to show me the Upfitter connections I ordered or I will assume it isn't there and I didn't get what I ordered. If I pay extra for it, the dealer better be able to prove it's installed.
  8. I have a US 2015 Transit Connect so not exactly the same, but here's mine. The photo is looking straight up from the floor mat, bottom edge of glove box is at the top of the photo. You don't actually need to remove the glove box but it does help. There is a cover that can be released to expose the fuse box. To remove the cover, you need to remove the round black pin (one on each side) seen in the photo below. Pry under the head (there are slight recessed areas seen at the roughly 11to1 and 5to7 o-clock positions) and it will pop out about 1/4 to 1/2 inch. That will let the expanded outer sides underneath to collapse and the pin can be pulled out freeing the panel to drop down. If you do much work with these type of pins, a set of push pin pliers and panel clip pliers from Harbor Freight is well worth the $20 for both. https://www.harborfreight.com/push-pin-pliers-67400.html https://www.harborfreight.com/panel-clip-pliers-67399.html They make it a lot easier to remove the pins, although access room for the tool can sometimes be an issue. On my US 2015 Transit Connect Wagon, you can remove the glove box by removing the hinge pins then tilting the box slightly so the side catches clear the sides. The hinge pins are very hard to see and I didn't figure them out until after I had cracked the plastic slots on one side. You almost have to stick your head all the way in the foot well and look almost directly up to see them. If your Euro Tourneo is the same setup, you should be able to see the black heads of the pins on the hinge ends closest to the center of the glove box. Work a pry bar or screwdriver under the heads and push them towards the middle. There is a raised area on the pins that helps lock the pin in place, but it will slid out with just a firm force. No clip to be pried or anything. That's how I cracked mine, trying to pry the raised part of the pin down into the slot thinking that would release the pin.
  9. That eBay one might technically fit once the bottom lip is cut down, but it likely wouldn't be very secure. The Ford rails rely on the crossbar mostly contacting the outside of the rail with a relatively small lip on the inside to lock it in. As you tighten the Ford crossbar, it pinches the rail by moving towards the outside at the same time it moves in the upward direction to hook under the inside lip. Here's a couple photos of the Ford rails on my 2015 TC Wagon (not tightened down) and a closeup of the clamping mechanism on the Ford crossbars. (That's 2 crossbars taped together in the photo, but you can still see the details best on the left side crossbar. The rail would roughly be where the blue tape in the background can be seen.)
  10. If you don't have the scrap plastic, a very cheap source I've used in the past for thin stiff plastic stock is cutting boards. Just a couple bucks at most local stores.
  11. When looking at how you both did your ends, a couple methods I have used in the past on other projects came to mind that you might find useful. I did a quick mockup using some junk laying around the house so I could post some photos. If you just need a straight spreader bar, a piece of PVC with eyebolts at the ends would work. I've done similar before by heating up the ends of the PVC until it softens, then inserting the nuts. If you match the PVC interior diameter to be a bit smaller than the nuts, it will hold the nuts well once it hardens. You can even bend in the edges to make it almost impossible for the nut to pull out. For even more rigidity, use a longer coupling nut instead of thin regular nut to keep the bolt aligned with the pipe better. And when attaching eye bolts to conduit without it poking out the backside, you can use one nut inside the conduit instead of two on either side. In can be a bit tricky getting the nut on the bolt, but the whole thing wedges pretty firmly into place once the end of the bolt hits the opposite interior side.
  12. Locking lugnuts....

    Unfortunately, it looks like mine have a different pattern. But here's photos with measurements of the Ford OEM nuts and removal tool. It looks like the cap is already off. One possible solution would be to use an oscillating tool to cut a slot in the end of the nut and use a very large screwdriver or flat bar stock to get it off.
  13. Locking lugnuts....

    After trying to help a guy several years back who was stranded with a flat and no key, I swore I would never use locking nuts. When I saw them on my TC prior to purchase I made sure to make replacing them part of the deal and forced the dealership to be the ones to do the swap. I still have the Ford locking nuts and key stored away. I've kept them to pass on to the next owner in case they are fans of locking lug nuts since my TC came with upgraded wheel options. If you can take a photo of you lugnut I can see if it looks like a match and can let you borrow the key to try on yours if it is.
  14. Not specific to 2018 wagons, but several users on the forums have done special orders. About 6 months from order to delivery seems to be fairly typical. I don't recall hearing of anything shorter than 4 months which is where you are now. Of course, that's just my potentially faulty memory. You would need to do a search to see specifics from prior buyers. And a lot of the delay seems to be dependant on when the order is placed in relation to certain parts of the annual production cycle. I seem to recall somebody mentioning that custom orders are only built at certain times.
  15. In my 2015 LWB TC to remove the glove box you just have to slide out the hinge pins. Unfortunately, I didn't learn the pins just slide out until I had broken a piece off the hinge. But not enough to harm it's operation. When you look at it, there appears to be a catch in a slot that needs to be released. But it's not really a catch. It's just a ridge that pops into the opening to keep the pin from sliding out accidentally. One end of the pin has a head, in my case the head ends are towards the middle of the glove box. Hook a screw driver or a pry bar under the head and push the pin towards the middle and it just pops out.