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DonShockley last won the day on May 16

DonShockley had the most liked content!

About DonShockley

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  1. Hold on to em. Might change my mind later and go back stock. And if they-re not at Gen 3 when I get my next TC I can always ftransfer the reflectors if they fit.
  2. Next cheapest found were $115 per side IIRC, from British and US suppliers. Might have found them a little cheaper and with quicker shipping with a lot more searching. And of course salvage yards would be even cheaper. But last time I tried searching the salvage sites I've seen mentioned on the forum, back when this swap was first suggested, I had no luck. Not surprising since Titanium Wagons are probably the smallest section of TC sales so spares from wrecks would be few and far between. Once I found some at a price I was willing to risk, I hit the buy button.
  3. Thanks for those part numbers. I decided I'll go ahead and be the forum guinea pig on these. With the Valeo info I found both for $131 total on eBay so it won't kill me if it doesn't work. It may take a while for shipping from Latvia (eBay estimates a month), but I'll post results once I get them and try to do the swap on my 2015 XLT Wagon.
  4. Went back and looked at my paperwork on the extras I wanted included in the purchase deal. The dumb key was actually $27, the $10 was for the standard lug nuts to replace the locking ones.
  5. I have an extra dumb key for my 2015 in my wallet. But due to the special nature of the TC keys, it had to be bought and cut at the dealership. I know the first gen used a different style, but it's likely available those too. Just ask for a non-transponder key and they should be able to get one. Mine was around $10 IIRC and I made sure to include it in the purchase deal even though my TC included the two extra fob keys.
  6. I keep a dumb key in my wallet. It won't start the car if I loose my regular set, but it will get the door open just in case I accidentally leave the key in the ignition as I get out. I've only ever had to use it once.
  7. disable automatic door locking on 2010-2013 TC

    It took me a bunch of tries to get the timing right and get it to work, and yes you have to do the full sequence. I don't know why they made the last two steps seperate paragraphs instead of step numbers 6 (a&b) and 7. And if I recall correctly, somewhere in there I thought maybe there was a typo and maybe I was supposed to be pushing the unlock button instead of the lock button for the unlock procedure. I thought that might be why it wasn't working, so I tried it that way too. I forget when it actually worked. But my neighbors must have thought I was nuts constantly pulling in and out of my parking area and driving up and down the street in short bursts to test the operation each time I thought I had it disabled.
  8. For me it's a maintenance issue. Assuming you keep your vehicle locked at all times between trips, adding an extra lock/unlock cycle in the middle of each trip will at least double the total number of cycles on the lock mechanism. If you keep your vehicle in a garage and keep it unlocked at home, it will be even more than double the number of cycles. Any mechanical device is going to be more prone to failure with additional cycles, although sometimes too infrequent use can also be bad. If you minimize the number of cycles, it's likely you are also minimizing the chances of failure during your period of ownership.
  9. disable automatic door locking on 2010-2013 TC

    Here's the instructions from my 2015 TC owners manual: Enabling or Disabling Auto lock and Auto unlock To enable or disable these features, do the following: 1. Switch the ignition on. 2. Press the power door unlock button three times. 3. Switch the ignition off. 4. Press the power door unlock button three times. 5. Switch the ignition on. The horn will chirp indicating your vehicle is in programming mode. Auto lock: Press the power door lock button for less than one second and release. The horn will chirp once if disabled or twice (one short and one long chirp) if enabled. Auto unlock: Press the power door lock button for longer than two seconds and release. The horn will chirp once if disabled or twice (one short and one long chirp) if enabled. After programming the feature, switch the ignition off. The horn will chirp once indicating programming is complete. Note: You will have 30 seconds to complete the procedure. Note: You can enable or disable the auto unlock feature independently of the auto lock feature.
  10. Mike, The power port fits nicely and easily in the filler piece above the lights on the shelf. I added both USB power ports and 12v outlet there when I modified my overhead shelf. And for my dashcam I was able to skip the adapter and use just a USB cable for power.
  11. Electrical Question

    If you mean this type used in residential wiring, they aren't suitable for use in automotive applications. The continuous vibration present in an automotive application can cause them to loosen. For automotive use you need connectors designed for that application, usually a crimp type connector. Soldering is the best method to rejoin wires.
  12. spare tire reel 2014 connecr

    The manual for my 2015 Wagon has this caution on page 243.... "Do not raise the spare wheel carrier without the wheel attached. Damage can occur to the winch mechanism if lowered without a wheel attached."
  13. I often wonder how effective some of these safety extras, like DRL or center mount brake lights, are in the long run. I know they draw extra attention when they first come out since drivers aren't used to seeing them. But once they start appearing on a significant portion of the cars on the road, they lose their novelty. And I suspect that once the novelty wears off, most drivers likely become road blind to them and most of the safety benefit probably disapppears. The benefit of always on lights during dusk or light fog would make you more visible to other drivers if you haven't thought to turn on your headlights. But for that purpose, I personally prefer the Auto Headlight sensors. I assume the expert research and programming into when they are and are not needed is better than my decision making. And it's both convenient to use and easy to over ride the sensors to turn the lights both on and off if you decide to. The build option for DRL is not the only time you should be able to choose, they should also make it possible to relatively easily turn the option on or off after purchase.
  14. Electrical Question

    Although I ended up going a different route when I added extra accessories to my 2015 Wagon, I had considered tapping into the same wiring. One of the neater products I came across in my research was a product called Posi Tap which would seem to make for a much nicer and more reliable connection than most of the typical tap connectors. I never ended up using them so I can't speak from personal experience, but if I have the need in the future, it's what I'll be trying unless I come across something better. https://www.amazon.com/Lockitt-POSI-TAP-Assortment-connectors-10-22/dp/B00CMC5DII/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525137506&sr=8-1&keywords=posi+tap&dpID=51T5CZNu9-L&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch And if you need a higher power circuit to tap, that white/red wire in the photo at the bottom of the trailer tow module should be the 12v supply from a 40A fuse. At least that's what my 2015 wiring diagram book shows.
  15. Just guessing here based on apparent location from the photos and looking at the same area of my 2015 Wagon. But it looks like it's right at the back where the exterior track for the door meets the corner light assembly. It might be an adjuster to align one or the other to the body lines of the adjacent metal panel. Hard to tell from the photo without seeing how far back the black area goes. But if the metal screw moves in/out directly it could adjust the mounting for the track cover. If the screw is operating some mechanism under the humped part, and connects just a bit further to the rear, it could pull the corner trim.