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DonShockley

T.C. Member
  • Content count

    245
  • Joined

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About DonShockley

  • Rank
    Transit Connect Member

Profile Information

  • Region
    U.S. Southern Plains
  • Location
    Tx
  • Current Vehicle
    2015 TC LWB Wagon XLT

Recent Profile Visitors

761 profile views
  1. This is the source I was looking at when I considered adding similar rails to my 2015 TC http://www.uscargocontrol.com/Ratchet-Straps-Tie-Downs/Airline-Straps-Hardware
  2. You need both of these Ford Accessories for the full tow hookup. Hitch and wiring kit are seperate. I had it done on my 2015 as part of the purchase deal. https://accessories.ford.com/vehicles/transit-connect/2017/exterior/trailer-towing.html One note: the hitch replaces the stock rear bumper support. So if you think you'll ever remove the hitch, make sure to get the removed bumper support returned to you after the install. I didn't find out that part until several weeks after the job, so my bumper support was long gone. I don't plan to remove the hitch, but it would be nice to have the parts if needed.
  3. I took both second and third row seats out of my 2015 TC. Just four T50 bolts per seat. Third row has one bolt at each corner. Second row has two bolts at the front of each seat side rail. No tricks on the third row other than sliding the seat forward and back to access the bolts at each end. Second row just remove bolts with seat unfolded, then fold down and latch seat before trying to remove. There is a locating pin on the bottom of each rail, so pull straight up until that pin is out.
  4. What kind of rear seats to add to 2011 cargo TC

    I've noticed that several times the people offering the seats were from shops that do wheelchair mods on the TC, you may want to see if there are any of those type shops near you and inquire there.
  5. Hello from St. Louis

    That's the boat!
  6. If these look like what you mean, and the post size is about right, I can hook you up with a couple free. I have leftovers from when I did my project. But I did have to find the right size existing holes in the bodywork to use. IIRC I got them on eBay because I'm not seeing them in my Amazon history.
  7. Converted 2015 LWB Wagon into a Van

    r1alvin I know it would be a bit of a drive from Allen down to Belton, but I just reinstalled the seats in mine so I won't need the deck I made. If you want it free it's yours for the taking. Rubber mat, mounting bolts, and installation wrench included. Just let me know if you want it.
  8. Hello from St. Louis

    (FYI: the guy in the white shorts is the Captain of the sub)
  9. Converted 2015 LWB Wagon into a Van

    If you mean the seatbelts for the third row, I don't see any way they can be related to the airbags. As you can see in this photo from the work I did in my 2015, the belt mechanism has no electrical connections to it which could provide any kind of signal to the airbags. Just bolted in place. You can also see a bit of the second row belt mechanism in the corner of the photo. Although none of my photos catch it clearly, there don't seem to be wires going to that one either.
  10. Hello from St. Louis

    E6 Boomer ET here (nuke reactor operator) out of Holy Lock & Kings Bay
  11. Hood Latch

    You should be able to slide the clips on those plastic tabs with holes shown in the first photo in the second group. You would have to select clip nuts with wider openings, some are very thin and meant to grab sheet metal. Turn the hole into a nut and the broken pin into a bolt and you've got a workable alternative to the original attachment method.
  12. Hello from Santa Cruz, California

    My Gen2 has two main styles of clips. The first kind just has ribs along the length of the fastener and I use the following tool to remove those. It lets you pull the fastener straight out which causes minimal distortion of the ribs and generally allows them to be reused. http://www.harborfreight.com/panel-clip-pliers-67399.html The other style is basically a removable plastic rivet that works like those small plastic wall anchors that splay out as you insert the screw / pin in the middle. I find this tool handy, although gently prying out the pin with a screwdriver works fine. http://www.harborfreight.com/push-pin-pliers-67400.html But the special tools aren't required, they just make it much easier and less likely to damage the fastener. You can see how some of fasteners are built in the photo of my spare parts kit below.
  13. Hood Latch

    You could always use some of these clip nuts to snap onto the receiving hole underneath. They provide for a fair amount of movement while still not spinning freely which should help with aligning the bolt between the non-parallel hole and trim surfaces. https://www.amazon.com/Clip-On-Nuts/b?ie=UTF8&node=6826021011 Couple that with some oversize button head bolts and it should be a much simpler installation. https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=Oversize+Button+Head+bolts These are just examples, I've seen small packs of each at the local auto parts stores in the past.
  14. There are areas of the fuse box that are switched power and areas that are constant power. The change could be as simple as getting an inline fuse holder and using it as a jumper wire from a switched supply side unused fuse slot to the existing load side fuse slot for the 12v outlets. It would be a non-permanent install and simple, as long as you put fuse leg ends on the wires. It's possible to tear apart a fuse and solder them on, but I really like the purpose built taps I bought for my add-on accessory circuits. There would be a more permanent way that would look better but would take much more work. It would require popping the wire out of the fuse box spot (pulling it out the back) next to the constant-on buss bars and moving it next to the switched buss bar. There's just a small lock tab that needs to be released but you have to take a lot apart to reach it.
  15. Actually just a case of the same thing twice in short succession. Went 2 years with no need, then had out of state family visit for the first time in years and needed the extra seats. Decided to stay with the cargo option after that visit. Now just a few months later, another out of state family visit (first time meeting the 4yo) needs the seats again. Since I really hadn't needed the extra height or strength gained by my modification, decided to go back to the stock option. It really is a great solution for both purposes. Of course, now that I'm doing it I probably won't have any other passengers for another 2 years.