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DonShockley last won the day on June 10

DonShockley had the most liked content!

About DonShockley

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    Transit Connect Member

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  • Region
    U.S. Southern Plains
  • Location
  • Current Vehicle
    2015 TC LWB Wagon XLT

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  1. Grounding in the headliner should work fine.
  2. Probably since they are the same generation / design. But I can't say so from personal experience.They do make some changes year to year but probably nothing big enough to change the floor physical layout.
  3. Here's how I did it. Rather than trying to change my sockets to switched, and since I was needing the power in the overhead shelf area instead of down low on the console, I added extra connections to the overhead shelf and tapped the power from spare switched fuse locations. For convenience, I added a small accessory fuse box behind the glove box. Then used that for all my future add-ons. The link below is for when I added USB outlets, but at the end added an additional 12V sockets. That topic has links to the other stages of the build.
  4. Found it! IIRC, the large grey one was for the microphone. The smaller black single and double connectors were the ones for the light, similar to the earlier center light photo I posted with them connected. The black loom is the power wires I added.
  5. Looks like there's a ground on that 9040 connector. And here's the drawing for the front area lights. I'm still trying to locate a photo from my earlier build showing the connecter I had to pull apart to remove the shelf.
  6. OOPS, looks like I misunderstood your original post. I thought you were looking for one to fit the optional shelf behind the front seats. I realised my mistake when you mentioned the visors. I had the entire shelf removed in mine when I added USB and power ports to the overhead shelf. The connector the the light there was right inside the recess behind the raised portion i the center. It's possible yours doesn't have it due to the moonroof / suroof controls mentioned in the description for that C9040 connector in the same area. It might be hard to tap those wires for the right signal. It looks like the manual switch uses a ground wire and a door switched wire to activate. While the C903/908/932 just have power and dimmer circuit connections.
  7. Looks like all 3 connectors for the roof open wiring are a connector with a single row of 6 terminals, at each light.
  8. AHHH! Give me a minute and I'll post some pics of the pages for the wiring pages for cars with the roof opening....
  9. I don't know if any of this will be of any help since it's from my 2015 XLT and wiring book. Although not an exact match, it looks like the closest similar connector is the one labeled C936 in the 2015 diagrams. In the 2015 it's a 6 pin connector (2 rows of 3) instead of the single row 5 pin connector in the photo above. But if that's it and it's in a similar location as the 2015, it should be in the headliner above the passenger seat headrest. My XLT has two headliner panels joined in this area.
  10. I used to buy component LEDs from them back around 2008 or so when the only way to get a really bright LED flashlight was to build one. Never had a problem back then and the LEDs were good quality.
  11. I would think carefully about where you use spray foam, assuming you mean the DIY stuff in the single can. It doesn't work well if sprayed into sealed areas like metal or plastic cavities. I learned the hard way that the foam needs tobe able to "off gas" freely or the pressure builds up and the foam collapses and reliquifies. If sprayed into enclosed areas through small access points, the foam sets first at the openings which prevents the gas escaping the foam underneath so the pressure builds back up. The end result is either a hard solid mass of collapsed foam settled in the low spots, or if the seal is very good the foam liquid can spill out later and refoam if you cut into the sealed area. I had this happen on a project where I initially used the foam outside and then brought it inside to finish. The foam spilled all over the floor when the sealed pocket was drilled into. If you need to fill large voids with the DIY foam, make sure there is plenty of expansion room for the foam, let set for at least a day, then trim back and seal the surface with wood, drywall, etc. If you need to fill a sealed area, you need to try to find a kit that generates the foam by mixing two different chemicals. Those foams shouldn't suffer from the pressure buildup and foam collapse problem since it's a chemical reaction that creates / sets the foam.
  12. The pins may have been on the third row seats instead of the second. Thinking back 2 years ago I just recall initially thinking I had missed some bolts when it seemed stuck as I initially tried to lift it out. But it was because I was pulling at a bit of an angle and the pins were jamming in place. Once I lifted straight up to get the pins clear, it came right out.
  13. I have mine on the floor just in front ot the drivers seat. I have the seat positioned all the way to the rear and rarely need to adjust it so there's room right in front of the slide adjustment handle. The extinguicher was bought at an auto parts store so the supplied bracket included coarse velro intended to grab the carpeting. It works well at holding it in place yet can be easily removed if I do need to move the seat.
  14. My 2015 LWB TC is dead flat with both second and third row folded. And I just have the weathertech mat now, although for the first 2 years I had the seats fully removed and a more solid plywood and rubber floor installed. One potential cause of the seats staying 2" high may be not being fully latched in the lowered position. You should need to give it a little push down at the end to get it to latch, And there's a bit too much play in the mechanism as it is lowered so sometimes you need to move it slightly to get the latch to line up correctly. If you can lift the seat back up without pulling the handle, your seat latch didn't engage. If you want to see the results with the seats removed you can check out the thread where I documented my project. It will get you an extra 6" of cargo height. If you have someone to help swap seats and plywood floor, it takes less than 30 minutes to do the swap and just takes 4 bolts per seat. It's a bit harder for me alone, but still doable. Wrangling a 4x7 foot sheet of plywood in and out is a bit of a challenge for one person.
  15. Not quite what you are looking for, but about the only similar thing I've found for the TC. https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/topics/2016/2016_Transit_Connect_v1-0.pdf