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Timbo

T.C. Member
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Everything posted by Timbo

  1. Hopefully parts prices aren't as insane on your side of the country as they are over here.
  2. Besides my front-right window not going down, I'm having an issue with the doors unlocking and the interior lights coming on while the van is moving, or moreover and completely understandably, when it first starts moving. 99.9% of the time, the culprit is the right-front door itself. If I open the right-front door, chances are pretty darn good the van won't lock when I close the door, at least not until I've slammed the right door a few times. This suggests to me that the front door sensor is faulty. Thing is, I don't always have to open the front door for this to happen, though usually that's the cause, and that's got me puzzled. ​Besides being annoying and making me worry I'll shatter the window if I repeatedly slam the door (that happened many years ago on my '63 Falcon van), I fear the issue will worsen and the doors will unlock themselves when the van is in a parking lot with me far away from it. Has anyone had this problem before, and if so, what was the culprit?
  3. I'll be installing the new latch this weekend and will report back to let folks know if it fixed the problem or moved to another door switch.
  4. OK, I just confirmed, based on my VIN, that my van does not have a fuel filter. There's a "sock" (filter), as they call it, attached to the fuel pump, inside the fuel tank. Now I'm thinking the part in the picture is a fuel pressure regulator. The electrical plug suggests that it would send a signal to the computer if the pressure dropped below a certain level.
  5. My crappy little owners manual does specifically state that the van has a fuel filter, it just says to replace it at 90,000 miles. Problem is, when I call my local auto parts store, or even the Ford dealer, neither of them can find it in their systems. O'Rileys said it was "non-serviceable" and thought that it was in the tank (doesn't mean it's non-serviceable), and the dealer couldn't find any mention of it at all. It's likely the useless little manual that comes with the van, doesn't distinguish between diesel and gas models, and just covers everything that "might" have been installed in the vehicle from the factory. I did find this little object on the passenger side firewall, behind the foil heat shield. It has fuel lines attached to it, along with an electrical plug, but it seems far too small to be a fuel filter. I described the part to the dealer, but they didn't know what it was. It has the numbers PA66-GF33 stamped all over it. I called the dealer back with that part number, but it didn't help. When I called the dealer, I spoke with a different person, and they couldn't find it either, saying that maybe it was part of the fuel pump. Does anybody know what this part is?
  6. Oil Change

    I'm glad I found this thread. I couldn't find the oil change intervals in my owners manual and was going to change the oil/filter on my '10 TC today. Then I found my maintenance records and saw that my last oil change was only 4,000 miles ago. I'm glad I read the replies here before going outside and crawling under the van. Looks like I can wait another 3,500 miles.
  7. Well, it's happened. The driver's side door, which has been giving me the same grief as the passenger door did since replacing that latch, has started unlocking itself now. I just ordered another $335 door latch from the Ford dealer. My local auto wreckers won't sell me just the latch. They want me to buy the entire door, and that's more expensive than a new latch. It would also result in my installing a used latch of questionable reliability. I hate to throw so much money at a problem that I don't really know the cause of, but at this point it seems like the next-best step before having a comprehensive diagnostic run ($140) to see if they can find the "real problem".. Does anyone know if there's a module for the doors, somewhere between the doors themselves and the main computer? If the new latch doesn't fix the problem, and I fear it might not, that would seem like the next place to look. ~
  8. I recently found these driving lights on Amazon, but they don't have any reviews to vouch for their quality. --> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CZ6NW4W?tag=viglink21027-20 Has anyone successfully installed fog or driving lights on their 1st Generation TC, and if so, what did you go with? I've never seen anything in the van that suggests there might already be wiring and/or harnesses to attach lights to, and I'm a little ambivalent about running a bunch of aftermarket wires, relays, switches, etc. just to mount some lights I don't really need. I just thought they might look spiffy with my new wheels.
  9. Yeah, is this thing running yet? I wish like hell that Ford would come out with a manual from the market, available in the US. Seems like Europe gets all the good stuff.
  10. Here's a quick glimpse of my minimalist TC camper build. Yes, the leg to my folding table is resting on the inverter, but unless I stack 50 bowling balls or a couple of anvils on it, I don't think it's going to dent the case. (the table went in years before the inverter). The internal fan keeps the inverter from getting hot, if I even use it at all, and the crutch leg / foot is impervious to heat. But then, again, there isn't any heat to worry about. The kitchen counter stows under the bed when not in use. I used coat hooks, bolted to the underside of the bed to hold it in place, and used a piece of carpet to keep the fit tight and act as a friction source to keep the table from sliding out / off the hooks. It works great. The coat hooks have rubber tubing on them for added friction and slip resistance. The angled, wooden trim under the table eliminates bowing / drooping of the 1/4" plywood counter top. I use similar wooden angled trim, fastened to the insides of the rear doors, to mount the kitchen counter to. Metal pins through the counter and into the trim, hold it in place. Since the cargo area of the 2010 TC is just 6' and I am 6' 4.5", I installed a 10" folding leaf to make the bed 6' 10" long if/when needed. To be honest, though, I never use the leaf. If I fold the passenger seat forward and push it back, the worst that can happen is I wake up with my feet resting in a very comfortable position against the back of the seat. I'm seriously considering removing the existing leaf and replacing it with a 6' X 10" folding leaf, mounted on the side of the bed, that will work exactly the same as the current design. The only difference being that the leaf wouldn't fold all the way under the bed, but hang on the side. Since removing my bulky, Camco, flushing camp toilet and replacing it with a bucket-potty, there is now a lot more room to work with on the side of the bed. As you can see, I do not have a sink, but just a 3 gallon bottle with an attached pump. It works great. I really like it. 1st Gen. TC's come with so little extra horsepower, the less you can weigh them down, the better off you and your fuel economy will be. The last picture is of my driver and passenger side window coverings. I use Reflectix on the other windows, backed up with black curtains for when I want privacy but still a little light. The front windows, however, get indoor / outdoor carpet, cut to perfectly fit the windows. They attach using the "hook" half of adhesive-backed Velcro that I have stuck to the window frames. The carpet, being fibrous, acts as the "loop" side of the Velcro, completing the two halves. I like the carpet because I can roll the windows down to let fresh air in, without also letting flying insects in. The windshield has a custom fit, reflective sun shade to keep things cool inside.
  11. It's called Reflectix, and yes, you can find it at your local home improvement store. I picked it up at Home Depot. It's foil on both sides with bubble-wrap material in the middle. Very easy to cut into any shape you need. It's also very affordable. We don't get super cold temps in this part of California, so I don't have a lot of personal experience with cold weather insulation, but I have used it in very hot weather. It works great at keeping out the heat. The moment I pull it off the window, I feel the heat radiating off the glass that it was blocking. (If you look closely, or zoom in, you can see the little, white conduit clamps I use to support the curtain rods). (At the bottom of the picture you can see the hardwood trim I use to hang the kitchen counter / table between the rear doors).
  12. And with a minimum of weight added. That was key for this wimpy and painfully underpowered little van.
  13. Thanks! 40mm ---> https://www.americastire.com/buy-wheels/voxx-mga/p/77987 I'm still trying to figure out what to do about the extra lug bores. I'm hoping to find rubber or plastic caps, but I haven't completely ruled out just painting them black.
  14. Oh yeah, that looks soooo much better than the stock hubcaps. In case you're wondering what all the crap on the roof is. It's a 190W solar panel, awning bar, and solar shower. You can't see the kayak saddles from this angle.
  15. A friend bought a house in Pebble Beach recently, I hauled pretty much all the furniture that went into it. So yeah, being able to remove the interior was a consideration for me too. I thought about using aluminum for the table supports, but getting it would have required driving several miles further than the Home Depot, where I was buying the table top material from anyway. (It was a much shorter trip from the plywood to the trim department). The kitchen counter / table weighs nothing at all, but supports anything I place on it....... which is typically food and my stove. I'm not going to try sitting on it, though. =/
  16. I wish we could get them with manual transmissions here.
  17. That's pretty cool! They look great! It's too bad Ford discontinued the design. I've never seen a TC with those caps before, and I can't even find them in a search. Maybe the pre-2010's weren't being sold on the west coast.
  18. Oh those. They look great. I considered that look, with the addition of trim rings, but my wheels didn't have the little tabs the cap hooks to. Someone said you can get center caps that attach to the lug nuts. When you said "original" I thought you meant stock. (where's the dunce smilie?)
  19. What caps did you lose? Not these? https://www.amazon.com/Hubcap-Transit-Connect-Wheel-Cover/dp/B014I98LB8/ref=sr_1_3/137-6203258-9253013?ie=UTF8&qid=1517763452&sr=8-3&keywords=ford+transit+connect+hubcaps *
  20. A quick Google search suggests that they did.
  21. I'm considering a set of these for my 2010 TC ---> https://www.americastire.com/buy-wheels/drag-dr-33/p/13796 I noticed, besides being .5" wider than stock, the offset (38) is different than the OEM wheels, even though this wheel is what their site shows when you search on 2010 TC-compatible wheels. According to what a user posted in another thread, it sounds like that offset is going to be too little. I heard no more/less than 10 +/- was advisable due to possible wheel bearing damage. I read somewhere that 52mm was the OEM offset for the 2010 TC, but I'm uncertain if that's positive or negative offset they're measuring. Do people still use metal spacers behind their wheels to achieve the proper offset? I'm also wondering about the TPMS. Am I going to have to buy factory, Ford valve stems to attach the sensors to? It seems like most aftermarket wheels I see have metal valve stems. Does the TPMS sensor attach directly to the stem? If so, it sounds like I'll need special valve stems, unless my original, rubber stems can be used with the new wheels. One thing I don't like about these wheels is that they seem to have lug holes for more than one bolt pattern. I worry that might look a little cheesy if the surface behind the open holes isn't black.
  22. Thanks, I went the minimalist route because eventually, if Chevy ever comes out with their promised, full-sized Express high-top, I plan to upgrade to a larger space. By not making the mods TC-specific, I can more easily move them to whatever vehicle / platform I like. I was against the idea of cabinets, shelving and modular kitchen slide-outs, because they tend to add a lot of unwanted weight, and the puny engine can't handle it without a huge loss of MPG. Imo, once the fuel economy drops down into the 16 - 19 MPG range, I might as well just buy a full sized van. If I'm going only going to get 19 MPG, I want power! Speaking of better fuel economy... I went with a narrower, lighter, bed because, 1) I camp alone, and 2) I wanted room to swing my legs off the bunk and onto the floor so I could more easily get dressed and eat at my table. Every time I see a huge, plywood-framed bed that takes up 100% of the usable interior, I wonder how they stand it. The shower holds 6 gallons, but in truth, much like the leaf on the bed, I rarely use it. I have a low volume shower head, so it lasts quite a while. Still, you're taking "Navy Showers", not long, lavish baths while whistling a tune; not a care in the world. Ultimately I want to attach a 12V compressor with a pressure regulator on it so I can better control it. Right now I use a compact bicycle tire pump, and while very quiet, it's somewhat less than perfectly suited for the job. If I had a little more height on the garage door, I'd get the "Road Shower" with its aluminum body ($300 - $400, depending on capacity). It's much more efficient at heating water than ABS, and it won't explode if you put too much air in it, like mine will. My shower was really just an experiment to see if I could make something decent. It's OK, but besides blowing up in my face, I worry about the pipe glue (dope) leaching into the stagnant water in the tube. I don't drink or clean dishes with the water in the shower. I've also read that ABS pipe, which is designed for sewage, not drinking water like PVC is, has a tendency to insulate the water from outside heat, even though it's black (it's usually buried). Still, it's what most people use when they build their own systems. PVC tends to crack if left in the sun. Then it becomes a real danger to its users. I completely forgot to look at Lowe's / Home Depot / OSH today for those black, rubber plugs. *
  23. On the roof I have a solar shower, DIY awning bar, 190W solar panel, and a set of kayak saddles (rack). I was fortunate that the previous owner, the original owner of the van, had installed tinted, glass, sliding windows in the doors. He also installed large convex mirrors, just below the factory mirrors on the doors. Being a commercial driver, I found this a very appealing addition to the van. The aluminum, aftermarket wheels I just added last Friday.
  24. Thanks, I'll take a look. Btw... That van in your avatar looks just like a 1963 Ford Falcon/Econoline. I got my dad's when I was 19.
  25. Transit Connect Lowering Kit

    I know you're not here anymore, but that looks pretty darn good! I'm not willing to mount my axle on top of the springs (too risky imo) but it would be nice if there was an affordable way to drop the rear 2". Just something to level out the van. It sounds like the only option is to have the springs physically altered to ride lower. Too bad.
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