Jump to content

Welcome to the Ford Transit Connect Forum

Welcome to the Ford Transit Connect Forum - the largest Ford Transit forum discussion board.  Like most online communities, you must register to post and take advantage of other features that this community has to offer, but don't worry this is a simple free process that requires minimal information for you to signup. Be apart of Ford Transit Connect Forum by signing in or creating an account.
• Receive special product discounts
• Invitations to events
• Start new topics and reply to others
• Subscribe to topics and forums to get email updates
• Get your own profile page and make new friends
• Send personal messages to other members
• Create an album and post photos. . .More!

Click here to create an account now.


transit connect guest message logo.png



T.C. Member
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by windguy

  1. (Aftermarket) Roof Rack solved!!!

    @bikinchris - glad you finally got your racks installed. no pics? To access the inside of the front mounting hole, you do have to remove the headliner. I also considered doing so but it seems like too much work with potential for collateral damage. I peeked inside the area by gently pulling down the back side of the headliner and with a flashlight I can see the forward mounting hole and also the airbag, which is well below the mounting hole and folded neatly and held in place with some type of cloth tie. Between the airbag and the roof is a metal flange that has some curvature to it. I don't believe there would be any reason to remove the airbag if you wanted to use the forward most mounting hole and using it would not affect the air bag in any manner. I think that is an urban myth with the TC, but those are just my observations. More discussion in a rack thread I posted a while back, link below, where I mounted tracks in the channel so the rails were adjustable. Just another install option. I also removed those gray/black foam pieces above the slider door tracks shortly after I got the van. They didn't seem to serve a useful purpose and looked kind of funky. Glad I got rid of them. http://fordtransitconnectforum.com/topic/6632-gen-2-roof-racks-tracks-install/?tab=comments#comment-21818
  2. Thanks for your post. Yes, I printed out a copy of the PDF I posted earlier from others input just for that reason. I showed it to the service advisor but he wouldn't take it, even on my insistence. He did show me the identical information on his computer screen under the SSM in the Ford system so I relented to his methods. Presumably that's what the tech was reading. Did the tech follow these instructions? Hard to say. The work order was done under the 3yr warranty so payment wasn't an issue. And no, not done at the dealer I bought the van at. I've never been back to that dealership as they are a ways away with numerous Ford dealers in between. I only bought it from there because they were enrolled in the Costco auto buying program. No reason to go back. The one difference between your van and mine might be that vans built after 12-11-16 already have the updates for the dark mode loaded in their BCM version. Prior year vans need to have the BCM updated first as step one of the SSM, and that's where I think they are failing to get this done properly as Ford ETIS does not show my vehicle's BCM as being updated since the factory build date.
  3. I see you have an emergency tool in the glove box. Very cool. I just got a pair recently for both cars and I'm storing it in the center console. Doesn't fit that great because I chose a longer model for easier grip, but I think it's more accessible in the center console than the glove box. If your seat belt retractor is jammed and you're alone, there's no way you'll be able to reach that tool in the glove box to cut your way out. Something to think about.
  4. @jackgrimshaw - congrats on getting the dark mode enabled. What year is your TC? I'm jealous. I've now gone to two different dealers and neither one can figure out how to properly execute the SSM. So frustrating. With the second dealer, the first appointment (1.5hrs) later resulted in no change. Went back a 2nd time after they updated their computer and had two different techs give it a try. Two hours later, same result, no change. Service Advisor showed me a printout showing that the approach lights were disabled but it doesn't work. Service advisor said he'd check with Ford but it's been over a month now. I wish I could have my service advisor contact the tech that was able to get yours done for a consult on how to do this. I've all but given up hope on getting this change made. When I check my vehicle under Ford ETIS, it shows the BCM version as never being updated. Still shows the factory build date and no change history. If the dealer updated the BCM, as required to make this change, I would expect to see that update under ETIS per what a previous poster had shown.
  5. Okay, maybe I've been living in a cave too long, so if you already have one of these, then move along. There's nothing new to read here. My old digital tire gauge was getting really flaky, not engaging the valve very well. Model shown in picture below. Time for a new one. Rather than replace with something similar, I find out you can get a digital gauge and inflator all in one tool. My old inflator had some manual pop up reader but never used it. Picked out the AstroAi 250 (about $30) based on decent reviews and it's the cat's meow. It's so fast to inflate, check pressure, bleed some air out if necessary. There are a few more expensive models but didn't think it was warranted for my monthly pressure checks on two cars. I need to get out of the cave more often. There's a new world out there. https://www.amazon.com/AstroAI-Inflator-Compressor-Accessories-Resolution/dp/B07528LFCT OLD GAUGE NEW GAUGE/INFLATOR
  6. Thanks Alvin. I found the thread I referred to, link below. I'm ready to give this a try. I think it will be easier to work on the flooring area with the side panels off and then add sound proofing to the sides like you did. http://fordtransitconnectforum.com/topic/6563-removing-wheel-well-covers/?_fromLogin=1
  7. Removing wheel-well covers?

    Great thread as I have the same question. Looking at the pics that Strobz posted and Desert_connect's pics of the fastener and description of how to remove is very helpful. I think I get it. I hate breaking parts and creating collateral damage. I bought a small panel tool remover kit with some plastic tools and the metal claw one that's pictured so I'm ready to give this a try. Many thanks!
  8. I finally got around to changing the backup light to LEDs. Seems like there is more light now so I think it's a worthwhile mod. Getting the rear lens out was easy on the passenger side but the driver side was caught up and a pain to back out. There's not a whole lot of wiggle room to getting these out. Tight fit. In case someone is wondering, the lens does not have to be removed, just opened enough to get to the rear of the housing to remove the bulb socket. See pic below. Put the new LEDs in, button it up and then grab my wife to help me test it out. Neither light is on. What? Really? Both don't work. Crap! I knew I should have tested it before putting it all back. I recall reading either on this forum or reviews for the bulbs that sometimes the LEDs have to be reversed. Did that and they both fired up just fine. There are an assortment of LED options available but I decided to avoid the lower cost ones and go with Phillips based on quality in the reviews. $20 for the pair. P/N: 12789LPB2 921-WHITE LED. Original bulb is a W16W.
  9. Has anyone seen or considered adding some type of exterior lighting to the back of a Gen 2? This wouldn't be a real necessity for me because I don't drive much at night, but recently I was backing down the driveway and had a hard time seeing behind me. The rearview camera optics are probably better than my eyes, but it's still marginal. Probably would be a useful feature to have if you're camping or you're in a remote dark area and need to back up or turn around. It would be cool to have some type of dash or cab mounted switch to toggle the light(s). And then the question of where to mount the lights. Perhaps in that upper dummy panel above the light cluster. Just a rambling thought.
  10. @Alvin - What a great thread. Thanks for sharing great write-ups, pics and awesome videos. You're work in most appreciated. WELL DONE! Your attention to detail shows in the final product. First rate work all around. You've inspired me to get off my butt and make some mods to my cargo van. Looking forward to reading about more mods and videos! Can you please share how to remove the rear side panels in the back? Another forum member asked that same question in another thread somewhere, but I'm not seeing it. My van is cargo, yours is wagon, but I'm sure the panels are installed the same way. Thanks!
  11. I missed seeing this thread originally. Glad two forumites floated it to the top. You made some great mods to your van. Extra points for getting your significant other to help. Hope to see more in the future.
  12. Nice job on your camper van. Thanks for sharing. Great to see you customize the van for your particular needs. Hope to see more in the future.
  13. just read this article from February 2014. "Why Microsoft lost Ford Sync: Too costly, too slow, and too hard to use" apologize if this topic was posted elsewhere on this forum there are few articles out there on this subject. Below are two links http://www.extremetech.com/extreme/177171-why-microsoft-lost-ford-sync#disqus_thread http://www.dailytech.com/Report+Ford+to+Replace+Microsoft+with+Blackberrys+QNX+in+Sync+MyFord+Touch+Interface/article34383.htm From what I read, it doesn't mention the change for the 2015 TC models. I'm not a gadget type of guy but it's interesting. Maybe others have some input on this.
  14. Thanks for the update. Sorry to hear of your woes. It's entirely possible they are waiting for parts but the story sounds very sketchy at best. Because it's a Titanium I would guess it arrives without any need for adjustments compared to a cargo model that needs to be converted from a wagon model. Seems like it would be early to have recall issues on a 2018 but I have no idea. For business I dealt with a Hyundai processing center for new vehicles coming off the ships and I was appalled at the patch up fixes they did to cars that got damaged either on the ship or getting to the storage lot, especially the body work and painting process. I don't consider that factory paint and a consumer should be notified as such, but that's another subject for another thread. If you're going shopping, I would highly suggest you start by using one of the many car buying services available to get yourself a baseline price. If you're in a major city you should have dealerships that participate in these types of services. I used Costco's car buying service, which was excellent. They connected me with a dealer within 20 miles, but not my closest dealers. Pricing to me was slightly below dealer invoice on a special ordered van. There are other services through AAA, Truecar, etc. They will tell you over the phone or email your cost without even going to the dealer. You can take that pricing to another dealer that's not in the program and see if they will accept it. Best of luck. Please keep us updated.
  15. I think GBL answered your question as it relates to a wagon model. My TC is a cargo model = no rear heating.
  16. The link below just popped up on MSN. Similar article to what MRTN posted above. https://www.msn.com/en-us/autos/autos-vans/new-ford-transit-connect-focuses-on-safety-versatility-tech/ar-BBGdmBw?li=BBnb4R5#image=BBGdmBw_1|6 To me the front end looks the same as the current Gen 2. Added safety features sound useful. One of the pics shows a dash that looks different, with an automatic trans shifter. Interesting layout. ADD-ON - That dash is for a full size Transit, not the TC. Per the article, this is all for the Euro market but most likely will follow to the US after with questions on the diesel engine option. BTW - The 2018 TC is now up on the Ford website https://www.ford.com/trucks/transit-connect-passenger-van-wagon/?gnav=header-all-vehicles
  17. FORUM RACK THREADS Before sharing my install notes, I thought it would be useful to reference the Gen 2 threads I found regarding roof racks and rails. There may be more. The first one I found to be most useful when I started researching rack options even before I ordered my van. For my cargo van I wasn't able to order factory rails and the cost from Ford parts to add them after delivery was crazy expensive. Aftermarket tracks and racks would be my only reasonable option. http://fordtransitconnectforum.com/topic/2406-roof-attachment-points-on-2014-transit-connect/ http://fordtransitconnectforum.com/topic/6322-cross-bars-for-2017-tc-wagon/ http://fordtransitconnectforum.com/topic/5542-diy-roof-rack-for-under100/ http://fordtransitconnectforum.com/topic/6179-roof-rack-cross-bars/ http://fordtransitconnectforum.com/topic/4245-can-you-add-roof-rack-rails/ http://fordtransitconnectforum.com/topic/5305-factory-roof-rails-revisited/ MY INSTALL I finally got around to adding tracks and a rack setup for my 2015 TC XLT LWB Cargo and want to share my install. I did the install a few months ago so some of the details are a bit fuzzy at this point. I didn’t have an immediate need for racks but wanted to have them available in case the need arises. Primary use will be to offload windsurf/surfboards from inside the van to the roof rack when I need more space inside. I decided to get all rack parts made by Yakima rather than cobbling them from different sources. My understanding is that the track design is universal from Thule, Yakima, Van-tech and others. Yakima rack items are expensive and price fixed, but they appear to be well made and integrate well. A few times a year it seems Yakima allows its resellers to discount their items up to 20% off, so that’s the best time to buy if you’re price conscious. MOUNTING HOLES The TC has five mounting holes on each side. The holes are covered with a black plastic plug that you can easily remove using a plier from the inside by squeezing the side tabs together or I’m sure you can lever it out with a screw driver from the roof side. The back four plugs are easily accessible from the cargo area. The front plug is shielded behind the cab area roof liner. I’m not sure how this myth got started that you can’t use the front mounting hole because of the side curtain airbags. We all know that the factory rails are using this mounting point as the rails extend the full length of the rain gutter. I used a flashlight to peek behind the headliner to see the forward mounting hole. Not sure how to describe this but there is a flange extending from the side of the roof that projects out and shields the mounting hole from the airbag. You can see the air bag folded up and sitting well below this flange. Perhaps 4-5 inches between the mounting hole, then the flange, then air bag. The front mounting hole doesn’t appear to be affected by the air bag unless I’m grossly missing something. Wish I could take a picture but it would be hard to capture in a tight dark space. You would have to remove the headliner if you want to use this mounting hole unless you can wrangle in some type of captive nut from the roof side. I don’t think it’s worth that effort unless you really need to have a wide spread for your cross bars. Also, the roof starts sloping down more as you get closer to the front so that’s another consideration. I considered drilling my own hole that was more forward but ruled that out as there is extra plating in areas around the rain gutter and thought best just to adapt to using the existing four holes. TRACKS I ended up getting 6ft long tracks, but in hindsight 5 footers would have been just fine. I didn’t want to end up too short and thought I can add my own mounting holes but I would recommend going with the 5ft option. Verify the exact length before ordering. Plus, the 6ft track from Yakima is hard to find online. I was able to get them at a semi-local pickup truck shell installer as they use these for their installs. You can order the 5ft rails from any Yakima reseller. The tracks come with mounting hardware, either plusnuts or capnuts. The place I got my tracks from told me I’d be better off using my own hardware, but I wish I had taken the install bag of hardware with capnuts. It’s hard to find capnuts in the thread size I wanted and I ended up harvesting some from an old fluorescent light fixture. Capnuts vs Plusnuts Comparison https://www.etrailer.com/comparison.aspx?pc=Y8810155&pc2=Y8810102 MOUNTING THE TRACKS The tracks come with end caps that you would normally be held in place using a mounting hole. Because the van mounting holes didn’t line up with this, I used a short stainless steel bolt and nut to hold the front end cap in place. I didn’t use the rear cap since I want to be able to remove the landing pad nuts that sit in the channel of the track without having to remove the cap. For bolts I used stainless steel 8-32 threaded bolts to match the capnuts I found. Two bolts were ¾” (back holes) and two were 1” (front holes). On the inside I used a 3/16 x 1” fender washer because the hole opening is pretty large and I wanted a large diameter washer. The forward two mounting holes are hard to get to on the inside due to the slider track framing. It’s a two person job to hold the bolt and get the washers and nuts in place. That’s why a capnut is useful. I drilled my own mounting holes in the tracks so they’d line up with the existing mounting holes in the roof. Because the mounting holes in the roof are rather large, I used a 3/16 x 1 ¼ “ neoprene washer to seal up the hole opening. Before mounting, I applied an ample amount of DAP Auto/Marine sealant around the hole opening and then put the neoprene washers in place. Also used the sealant around the bolt threads and on the inside fender washer. CROSSBARS The Yakima and Thule systems use a landing pad that mounts to the track using two bolts and nuts that sit in channel in the track. You can remove the landing pads if your racks aren’t being used all the time but I think it’s easier to leave them in place. Yakima provides caps to cover the landing pad and it sticks up few inches above the tracks, not a big issue. The cross bars attach to the landing pads using a tower. For the Yakima system, the Skyline towers are used for this setup. You can also order a set of locks called SKS cores that are very easy to install and help secure your rack in place. The cross bars and tower can easily be removed together when not in use. I went for 60” wide cross bars. Yakima offers three types of crossbars. The round ones are the original style and the other two are of an aero design. I went with the Corebar aero style for reduced noise. I considered the round style with the thought of adding some type of roller that would make it easy get something large on the roof, like a sheet of plywood. ITEMS ORDERED Below is a list of the items I ordered. I got mine from rackattack.com since they had all items in stock with free shipping and 20% off at the time. Total cost around $540 plus misc hardware and sealant. As I said, Yakima is expensive even when it’s on sale. Best to verify part numbers as things may have changed since I ordered. Tracks: Yakima 72”, #8001607, set of 2 (the 60” track with capnuts is #8001135) Landing Pads: Yakima Landing Pad 1, #8000221, 2 sets of 2 Towers: Yakima Skyline Tower, #8000148, set of 4 Crossbars: Yakima 60-inch Corebar with endcaps, #800422, set of 2 Locks: Yakima SKS Cores, #8007204, 4-pack
  18. Thanks Cynar. When I select the History Tab, nothing shows up. See screen shot below
  19. 2017 TC XLT simple camper

    Cool find - thanks for sharing
  20. Thanks DonS - those are some great tips you shared.
  21. thanks, I'll take a look at that.
  22. @swps - Welcome to the forum and congrats on your new van(s) Both look very sharp. Thanks for sharing pics. Your custom pvc racks looks great. Those planes are very cool looking. Surely not my old man's RC planes from the 70's.
  23. @JoeMan - Thanks for sharing your thoughts and empathy. You are spot on in your thinking.This dealer handled this whole repair or lack of very poorly. Funny how I didn't get a repair survey afterwards. Coincidence? I still may pursue this with another dealer with a different angle this time. If I do decide to pay for it I won't be having the work done at the local dealer. They don't deserve any compensation after jerking me around. Good Will works both ways. YES, you owe us your own build thread. Please share with lots of pics.
  24. @cynar - thanks for posting that about FordEtis. I created a login and checked my VIN. See the below screen grab regarding Software Updates. Those dates were the original mfg dates. Not sure how to interpret that. I didn't see any other service info on my van as well but did see that I haven't had the sliding door latch recall done yet, so that part is correct.