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Yes it can be done, you would have to purchase a aftermarket keyless entry system. Compustar or Viper would be my choices. Here is the diagram you would need. http://www.commandocaralarms.com/wiring/2010-2011/ford/transitconnect/839.html The wires you need are the lock/unlock, ground, power. The others would be fore remote start.
If your running your stock head unit, you will have to tap into your speaker outputs, run them to the alpine through it's high inputs and than the outputs will go to the other side of the wires you cut that continue to the speakers. You will need power constant and switched, you can either tap into the power wires already there or find them in the fuse box. Here is the wiring diagram that should help you.
With running new speakers off a head unit such as the stock one, as stated do not expect miracles. A good 2 way speaker is going to actually give you a cleaner sound than trying to split it up 3 ways on a coaxial speaker. If you are looking for an improvement go ahead and get the speakers and if upgrading the head unit is out of the question. Install a alpine KTP-445U between the head unit and your speakers this will increase your output and quality.
Though I this may help anyone who is curious of the colors behind the head unit. Keep in mind I do recommend the use of the proper wiring harness so no cutting is needed, "other than steering wheel controls" Constant 12 Volt = Orange/Black "large" Switched 12 Volt = Yellow/Green Ground = Black/Green Illumination/Dimmer = Orange/Black "small" Front Left + =White/Black Front Left - =Grey/Black Front Right + = White/Red Front Right - = Grey/Red The rest of the wires I will research later. If you have any questions please feel free to ask. Here is my install
Hello everyone, my name is Matt, I have been an installer for 8 years now. My audio installs is a part time side job, however I work as a I.T. guy. We got our new van a few weeks ago and the stock system was not cutting it for me. Stage 1 Head unit install I decided to go with something that could give me expandability and features but also not something that would blow the budget. The JVC KW-R900BT fit the bill nicely. I am a alpine guy all day and kenwood is a close runner up, but I decided to step out of my comfort zone on this one and go with a different brand all together. Items Purchased JVC KW-R900BT http://www.amazon.com/JVC-2-DIN-Bluetooth-USB-CD-KWR900BT/dp/B0079LGLH4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1351200234&sr=8-1&keywords=jvc+kw-r900bt Metra 99-5824B Dash Kit http://www.amazon.com/Metra-99-5824B-Installation-Vehicles-Charcoal/dp/B005G0AZ5O/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1351200282&sr=8-2&keywords=metra+ford+transit+connect+dash Metra 70-5523 Wiring Harness http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003E3OLNW/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00 Metra 40-VW10 Antenna Adapter http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BESIM/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00 For removal tools I decided to try the knife trick for a change. Dollar store steak knives work better than the removal tools I must say! On to the pictures. Few of the parts Ran the mic on top of the A pillar, no problem with echo or noise. The wire was ran down the inside of the weather stripping. NOTE that once you get to the dash you can still ge the wire behind the weather stripping, just take your time. As I do all my work, I soldered and marine grade heat shrunk all the wires, sadly I was in a rush and did not take a picture of this. Wires ready to go. Routed the USB #2 port to the glove box, very simple to do. Head unit installed in the metra dash kit. Installed with trim ring