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Showing most liked content since 01/16/2017 in all areas

  1. 9 points
    Just got this information from the Service Manager where I purchased my 2017 TC XL Cargo Van: --------------------------------- SSM 46321 - 2014-2017 Transit Connect - Battery Drain Due to Frequent Door Openings and Approach Light Strategy Some 2014-2017 Transit Connect vehicles may exhibit a condition that causes the battery to discharge. If normal battery drain diagnosis leads to no issues, it may be caused by the approach lights illuminating every time the body control module (BCM) receives a lock/unlock signal or opening any door. If the door remains open, the lights will remain illuminated for up to 10 minutes. If the vehicle was built on or before 11-Dec-2016, reprogram the BCM to the latest calibration using IDS release 103.05 and higher. Calibration files may also be obtained at www.motorcraft.com. For all vehicles, access the BCM Configuration Parameters. Select Module Programming, Programmable Parameters, Personality, Approach Light. Choose Disabled and follow the screen prompts to completion. Use causal part 14A068 and applicable labor operations in section 10 of the SLTS manual. APPLICABLE VEHICLES 2014 - 2017 CAR: HC V408 (EU) --------------------------------- The fix was done at no cost, under my warranty. Hope this helps!
  2. 5 points
    I went to my local dealer today with the intent of making sure they can perform this SSM under my 3yr/36k bumper-to-bumper warranty and to give them a heads up if they want prepare with any downloads they need to perform to minimize the amount of time they will need my van in service. I gave the service advisor the attached doc below, he read it, and said they will do this under warranty if I'm having a battery issue. He gave me back the piece of paper, said this type of service is done by their 'electrical tech' and they will need the van for a few days, so make an appointment when I'm ready. Two days? Attitude aside, I'm glad they are willing to make this fix under warranty, I hope. Chapter two to follow. Stand by. SSM 46321 Dark mode.pdf
  3. 4 points
    I complained about the entry illumination to my dealer, and expressed my concern that it would drain the battery on my 2017 TC XL Cargo Van, since it is being converted to a weekend camper. The service tech hooked up their Integrated Diagnostic System computer to the vehicle's On-board Diagnostic port and scrolled through the Body Control Module menus, but couldn't find any way to shorten or turn off the unwelcome 10-minute "Welcome Lighting." So, I spoke with the dealership's service director, who went online and looked through Ford's technical bulletins for customer complaints about battery drain caused by the long open-door lighting delay. Sure enough, Ford had come out with a firmware update for the TC's Body Control Module. Once my vehicle's module had been updated with the new firmware, the tech was able to access the menu to turn off the lighting. The software update and programming change was covered under my warranty. Now that I am finally in "Dark Mode" I am a happy camper. Moral of the story: Keep complaining until you get results. Let us know how you fare with your dealer.
  4. 3 points
    Fifty150

    Winter Tire Thread

    They don't make earthquake tire.
  5. 3 points
    CATFISH

    2016 XLT

    Here's a few shots of my 16 XLT, Mods include 18" Focus ST wheels that I powder coated gloss black. All the black textured plastic body parts were color matched blue, except for the grille opening and fog bezels which i finished in glosss black. And I also added 35mm front and 40mm rear drop springs. I suffer from automotive OCD, and since I've had it about 8 months, I've already started looking for it's replacement.. but It's delivered more than 15K trouble free miles with an impressive 28+ mpg. It was my first modern Ford, but probably not my last...
  6. 3 points
    chong

    Vincent VanGoing 1.0

    Had the day off Friday so I decided it was time to add heated seats to my Van. This isn't my first rodeo with adding heated seats to a car that didn't come with them from the factory. The first step was to yank the seats: Having an elevated work area makes things go a bit faster: Disassemble, add the heating element, reassemble: We pulled the center console and mounted up the switches: Wired everything up to switched power and we're off to the races: No more cold butts!
  7. 3 points
    Found a sticky note in my van looks like ford TSB information the technician used. Tried to upload a picture of it the paper found but got a error message file to large? Anyway refers to TSB 12651D4 reprogram BEC module SSM 46321 test 9002 WF Dark mode . Maybe someone can decode this .how do you upload a simple picture off my cell phone to this message board? Hope this helps
  8. 3 points
    JohnnyB

    Comfort and noise on long trips?

    I appreciate everyones feedback, I finally bought one a 2017 XLT , loaded with upgrades, leather seats, Navigation, Blind spot sensors, very pleased with it so far.
  9. 3 points
    ok, so heres a basic run down of what has been happening on my build. tape a giant area off, and mark off where the 14x14" hole is going to be cut. drill the 4 corners and cut out the square. i used a cut off wheel on a die grinder. quick and dirty (like my jokes). i have access to everything, all the cutters, air nibblers, shears, etc etc, but i chose the die grinder because i am well versed in its usage. PRO TIP: tape a trash bag below the area you're going to cut, this seriously kept out 98% of the crap that would have gone all over my bed platform (i removed the cushions) Couple quick shots of the fan up there, kinda just seeing how monster this thing is. i really wish they made like a 8x8" fan, cuz this is totally overkill. the only other powered fan (size anyways) is a vent line vanair and its like 6.25" circle, pretty noisy due to the "squirrel cage blower" and only has one speed. go big or go home i say. Obligatory head thru the hole in the van shot. now, ill 100% admit to getting in the groove and getting this MOFO installed for the night, i forgot to take a picture of @Hein 's BEAUTIFUL adapter, this thing is NO JOKE. its CNC machined to match the curvature in the roof, both front and back, and side to side (like EZ-E's switches), fills in the ribs in the roof to perfection. Well worth the entry price of ~$65 taped off a perimeter, dulled the paint with a Grey scotch brite pad, wiped down with isopropyl alcohol, let dry i used 3M window weld as spec'd in the instructions, 3 beads 1/8" high/wide all around, light clamps to hold as needed. after the squeeze out, used a gloved finger, and made a little fillet of the window weld, then peeled the tape, nice crispy lines. DONE! well, at least with the roof adapter to give the fan flange something flat/level to sit on. let me tell you, this thing is 100% level front to rear and left to right, very impressed.
  10. 3 points
    Got the Laminate Planks in,,,the silver colored oak was a special order item,,,fawn looked good enough, plus it will match the beagles fur when they shed LOL. stuff is super easy to work with,,,I used my trusty knockout set to punch the access holes to the floor bolts. The Tie downs hold the entire floor securely in place, so no tape, glue or velcro needed! I hope this floor lasts a while,,,if not, it will come back out!
  11. 3 points
    I just got these tires today and some 16 inch steel wheels. BFG K02 215/65r 16 Tirerack.com has the wheels on close out for $40 right now. The front tires rub slightly at full lock when turning but it's no big deal to me. I trimmed a very small portion of the rear felt on the wells cause they rubbed on bumps. Like a very small 1 inch trim.
  12. 3 points
    As some have noted, there is no switch to turn on all the interior lights on newer TCs. This modification will allow you to turn them on with a separate switch. Opening a door turns on all the lights, so I added a switch that activates the same circuit. You can easily turn on the lights and the van thinks you have opened the driver's door. It works well and the only hitch is you get a "door ajar" message on the message center. This is not a complete step by step but it covers the tricky parts. The most difficult thing will be removing the door panel without breaking any tabs or pins. You should have a panel removal tool (or tools). There are dozens on Amazon for under $20. You may also want to buy some spare clips for the door panels. Several are tough to reach even with the tool and you may break one .https://www.amazon.com/Ford-Panel-Retainer-Sealer-W713297-S300/dp/B00CWLL84C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1489722168&sr=8-1&keywords=W713297-S300 Remove the plastic cover behind the door handle. It pulls straight out. Pry at the spot noted to avoid breaking any tabs. Remove the small panel behind the door latch Remove the door panel and unlatch the door handle Here is the wiring diagram. I used a pushbutton switch. This type of switch needs to be latching. You can use a rocker or toggle switch that has a normally closed terminal. The switch will be normally closed and open when the lights are turned on. The lights go off when the switch goes back to closed. I also used a lighted switch so I had to connect power for the light. The light is not necessary so only do it if you like the look. ***see diagram below*** Here is the power for the lighted switch. It is tied to the light for the door lock buttons. I used posi-lock connectors for this connection. The switch is wired to the door module. Pin 14 is cut and the switch is inserted. Here is the door module with the wire already cut. The wire had green paint on a black wire. Another view of the cut wiring I wired the switch using a modular pigtail that plugs in (for door panel removal in the future). These connections were soldered. The wire was dressed with Tesa cloth tape (I love this stuff). The Tesa tape prevents rattles and will not get gooey with age like some electrical tape. https://www.amazon.com/Tesa-Wire-Loom-Harness-Mercedes/dp/B00EH6IZ6Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1489723291&sr=8-1&keywords=tesa+tape The finished product. The switch light is always on just like the lights on the door switches. But I can't see it from the driver's seat (hence the uselessness of the light). You will get the alarm chime and message when you turn on the lights, but they work fine (just like opening a door while driving). Of course I insulated the door panel with theromozite and it gives the door a solid feel and dampens road noise. Insulating takes less than 1 hr per door and I highly recommend it. Use spay on adhesive to apply.
  13. 3 points
  14. 2 points
    I was frustrated that there was no passenger armrest in my TC. I built one using the factory cupholder, ABS pipe and caps, plywood, carriage bolts and some cheap armrests from Canadian Tire. Two fold down cup holders finish it off. It's sturdy and removable!
  15. 2 points
    mrtn

    Winter Tire Thread

    Then again, it’s a really cheap add-on for the added safety and convinience.
  16. 2 points
    I've been looking for a TC for a few months now. My local dealers didn't have anything new that had the features I wanted and I really didn't want to wait 6 months and order a new 2018 or pay full sticker either. I fly model airplanes and had rented a TC for a work trip last year and fell in love the TC and knew it was going to be my next vehicle. I wanted a 14-17 with Sycn 3 and Navigation, leather, LWB and it had to be in Red or Blue either XLT or Titanium. I figured the last car I compromised and got the color my wife wanted (white) and I was going to get the color I wanted this time. Plus I wasn't in a hurry and had been looking for a while anyway. I did find a hand full of used 2017 Titanium's locally but everyone was firm on their pricing and honestly asking too much and over my budget. About a month ago I found a 2014 that was perfect in AZ but the dealer backed out of the deal and demanded an extra $3k...so the hunt continued. I got my brother helping me look and he has a friend with a car lot and was able to help me look at auctions but nothing came up that was the right fit for me.. I finally found a 2017 Green/Gray one (color choice #3) but the dealer was into it way too much and wouldn't come down. I finally found a blue one locally and he was able to come down to the price I wanted to pay but there was an auction for another on the next morning. I decided to try on the auction but it ended up going for WAY more than it should have but the blue dealer sensing I was going to pass made me an offer that I couldn't turn down. Now the funny part is that I was about to head over the credit union to get the check and head up to the dealer to pick up the TC, my brother calls me and says "guess what I just bought?" He bought the Green one I had looked at earlier. Turns out the dealer was finally ready to make a deal too. So, my brother and I both bought 2017 TC LWB Titanium's with the exact same specs on the same day! He is a golf rep and it's a perfect fit for him and for me and my model airplanes I couldn't be happier!
  17. 2 points
    desert_connect

    TC Towing a Backhoe

    Towed my little backhoe the other day!
  18. 2 points
    txb0115

    2014 nirVANa build

    This summer I am building out my 2014 XLT Cargo to better function as my traveling snowboarding rig. I owned the van last winter and love the space it has and the fact that I can change my clothes/boots in the back hassle free out of the elements. I put on Nokian Hakkapeliitta 8 studded tires and the van was unstoppable in the snow. https://www.discounttire.com/buy-tires/nokian-tire-hakkapeliitta-8-studded/p/24922 We had a big winter here in Utah and even on the worst days with those tires the van was a beast. This is the first non 4WD/AWD vehicle I've owned in 25 years and I was a bit apprehensive when I made the decision to get the van, but with the right tires the apprehension was proven to be unwarranted. The only thing that ever gave me an issue was about 12" new in the parking lot one day as the van has low clearance, but with a heavy foot on the gas and knowing how to drive in the snow I was able to manage. Ground clearance is the only thing I can ever see being an issue, and the days that it is will be very very far and few in between, in other words, they will happen so infrequently that all the other days having the van will far out weigh those days when and if they do happen, and I'll make it through those day by not being an idiot.. This summer I am going to be building benches/cargo boxes to keep all of my stuff in. I'll build a short one on the drivers side to sit on and be able to change which will keep all the winter necessities, washer fluid,tow ropes, chains, jumper cables, snow shovel, emergency blanket and emergency food/water. On the passenger side I'm gonna build one pretty much full length that will hold 2 (or maybe 3 ) snowboards. This will keep them from flying around in the back, keep them hidden from prying eyes and keep me from having to bring them in the house every single night. So to get started the stock mat had to go. Vanrug finally started producing a rug for the newer body style in the last few months and I loved the Begrug I had in my F150, so I bought one. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y2CCH3G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Then under that I decided to lay down a layer of sound deadener, Stinger Roadkill is super well priced and you can get a bulk pack for around $100 on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005ATJ04S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I did the floor and the rear wheel wells to help cut down on some of the road noise. The van rug, being a carpet type material quites the van a nice bit compared to the stock mat which reflects quite a bit of sound being a closed cell rubber mat. I also bought a cargo net to hang from the cross beams which will come in handy for gloves, beanies and goggles after a day of snowboarding so I won't have to shove them in my gear bag right away. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016YTNWSW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I bought a sheet of Alumalite and will be making panels for where the rear window cutouts are and will mount hooks and a few things on them. About a week ago I pulled the door panels, sanded them and painted them black to have the back match a tad bit better. Today was sound deadner and Vanrug install day. All in all it went well. The next two things happening will be the cargo boxes, which I'll build at my dads house as he has a full metal and carpentry shop, and then a stereo system, I like my music and I travel a bunch in the winter. For the cargo boxes I'm gonna drive over to PDX and visit my old man for a week and build them with him probably in the first week or two of August. The stereo I'll do here in SLC myself... For the stereo I go high end, you get what you pay for... The Amp is an Audison AP 5.9 - 5 channel amp http://www.ebay.com/itm/Audison-AP-5-9bit-car-audio-5-channels-amplifier-and-processor-/262776470995?epid=2118060557&hash=item3d2eb2bdd3:g:ILgAAOSw44BYXp9s it runs 40x2 - 90x2 - 1x270 Even though that is only 530w, since the amp is an Audison it's really like running a cheaper 1000w amp... If you know anything about mobile electronics bench testing and sustained output then you know what I mean.. The Amp also has a built in Digital Sound Processor so you can fully tune the system, the amp also uses line-in connections so you can run it off a stock radio and retain all of your factory functions. I also bought the dash remote kit for it so I can adjust the sub/speakers on the fly. I'm gonna mount it where the stock 12v port/change bin is and relocate the 12v port to inside the console box next to the AUXin jack. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Audison-DRC-MP-Digital-Remote-Control-Media-Play-DRC-MP-/331962025664?hash=item4d4a7a86c0:g:jC8AAOSwOdpXzrrS For the door speakers I went with Focal K2 Power 165 KR2.. These are 2ohm speakers and will let the amp run with a higher output, once again spendy, but you get what you pay for.. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_091165KR2/Focal-K2-Power-165-KR2.html?tp=106 Then for the sub I went with a JL Audio 10TW3-D4, this is a shallow mount sub, with dual voice coils so you can run it @ 2ohms to get the most out of your amp. It's gonna go under the the passenger seat and I'm gonna utilize the space from the little storage compartment that is built in by making a fiberglass box that perfectly fits in that space and then pours out to the surrounding area as well, but that space will let the sub sit plenty low under the seat, really it's kinda perfect. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13610TW3/JL-Audio-10TW3-D4.html?tp=111 So we will see what the next month or so brings and I'll update this as I complete more things...
  19. 2 points
    Alfanut

    My Wonder Bread van

    After much deliberation and research I bought a CPO 2014 Titanium LWB last week (October 2017). I had not really been looking at used vans but this seemed too good to pass up for a cheap guy like me. Other vehicles considered: Chrysler Pacifica and MB Metris. Plan to use it for work hauling signs and supplies to the bay area plus travel/camping and taking the dogs to the river. I've owned wagons (volvo, audi, vw) but with the near death of these and my need for greater cargo area I have to say good bye to the era of wagons. Michael Williams Sacramento, CA
  20. 2 points
    windguy

    Removing this panel on dash

    I agree, harder to wire up plus your panel is already in use. Mine's a waste of space being a blank panel. Thanks for the option of fixing that dash panel, but that would be too drastic for me to take on. I never look at the analog gauges (speedo and tach). Kind of a waste for me. I check my speed with the center digital speedo. I think the whole dash design lean towards style over function. I did consider a heads up display but haven't done any research beyond a quick glance.
  21. 2 points
    txb0115

    2014 nirVANa build

    Added a few more touches... Made organizing partitions in one box for stove, water, fuel. Then added two fold out tables to use for cooking eating... I don't really foresee actual sleeping in this thing very often as the wife is a travel agent and I can get crazy good hotel room prices, but there is enough room for me to lay down and sleep if needed, like on a late night drive to Jackson or Aspen from SLC. Then cooking wise I really only see myself doing it in the van in those rare instances or at lunch time at the ski resorts, other wise, I'll take the stove in the hotel room to cook with...
  22. 2 points
    Vinyl is good. Easy to clean. And you won't cry over it when it rips or gets a cigarette burn. Plus, pleather, naugahyde, and vinyl gives you that 70's feel.
  23. 2 points
    The center console is easy to remove. From the service manual: Removal NOTE: On both sides, as both the drivers and passengers side seats will have to be positioned. Position the front seat in the full rearward position. Remove the front console retainers. (see photo Console 1) Torque : 41 lb.in (4.6 Nm) NOTE: On both sides, as both the drivers and passengers side seats will have to be positioned. Position the front seat in the full forward position. NOTE: On both sides, as both the drivers and passengers side seats will have to be positioned. Remove the rear console retainers. (see photo Console 2) Torque : 41 lb.in (4.6 Nm) Position the parking brake lever up then unclip and remove the parking brake boot assembly. (see photo Console 3) NOTE: Cover sides and front of Console to prevent damage from Instrument Panel and seat belts. Raise the front console. (see photo Console 4) Disconnect the electrical connectors. Remove the Front Console. To install, reverse the removal procedure Easy job. Once you get the console out, you can look underneath to see if you can rotate the rectangular panel to the position you desire.
  24. 2 points
    zalienz

    And Then There Were Two...

    Little did I know a year after buying my Connect I would be transferring to the mobile service division of my day gig. Now I have (2) 2017 Transit Connect Cargo Vans to roll in.
  25. 2 points
    robertlane

    Transit Connect Upgraded

    We upgraded the site today to the latest version offered by the softer maker. It seems to be slightly faster.
  26. 2 points
    Osco

    After-Purchase Report

    Had my 2016 LWB XLT for 15 months now. Got fried by lightening at 80 mph, back at 40,000 miles or so. Burned out all the electric's/electronics , even Inside the Tranny, everything but the outside light bulbs, Imagine that. Road hazard covered it, was a $6500 repair, cost me my deductable , no biggie. Never had a single complaint, now at 82,000 miles, runs perfect. I don't nit pick it, need a new driver side sun visor, Its sagging a bit, Gas cap/door kinda loose,, Not bad for the heavy use I've put it throgh.. I'd buy another..
  27. 2 points
    DonShockley

    High beams great, low beams s*ck

    Bright yellow adjuster right on top. One of the best designs for ease of adjustment I've come across. And the knob takes hex keys or has screwdriver slots in the bottom of the hex recess. Here's a photo of it on my 2015 TC
  28. 2 points
    These two bagel brothers like camping out in the back of the van more then I do lol. You can see what I mean with the tie off point there,,,Right now I'm just looping their lead around the hook. I might look into make something more clean and simple, but same idea. Is this an alternate safe way to travel with them in their harness as opposed to being in a wire crate that can fold up etc in a crash? Also serves as a nice place to hook some plastic bags for trash or whatever else.
  29. 2 points
    Beta Don

    Skylight question

    I didn't have a clue, so I did a search. The 'skylight' is actually called the 'Vista Roof' and yes, it appears it does come with a sliding panel (a power one no less) to block the sun in the daytime http://www.buyford.com/carresearch/Vehicle-Quote.html/year_2016/make_Ford/model_Transit Connect/trim_LWB Titanium/id_32578/confid_buyford/section_Options/ Hope this helps! Don
  30. 2 points
    Beta Don

    Switching back door styles?

    You two guys need to get together! Park them side by side, do a little drilling and bolting, then shake hands and go your separate ways Don
  31. 2 points
    Back from our trip to Colorado! I drove the entire route solo both ways approx. 13 hours straight. Was not even the slightest bit fatigued after all of that driving! Did a lot of high elevation driving including 1 drive up to the summit of Pikes Peak with a fully loaded van (2 bikes, gear, 2 dogs, full 8 gallon water tank). Overall the van did great but was easier to manage in the hills in "S" mode where I could select the gears. I can now see the value of that swing away hitch that was posted in here for the bike rack. We arrived a day early as I mentioned above and found a place to pull off on a dirt road in the Pike National Forest. I set up my bed arrangement and it worked great. I also cracked a window and had a bug screen with magnets on the exterior of the sliding door window. Problems arose as temperatures plummeted into the 40's. It got too cold to sleep and I didn't have a sleeping bag or anything, just a thin sheet so I turned the van on to warm up the interior. My fuel guage said that we had approximately "300 miles to E". It seems when the van idles with the heat on, I counted 8 minutes 46 seconds for the fuel indicator to drop a mile. I figured this would give me PLENTY of time to finish a good nap before running out of fuel. (ie: 8min x 200miles / 60 = 26.6hours). Sure enough, I slept great! Woke up, drove down to the Hungry Bear in Woodland Park, CO and had a nice pancake and egg sandwich breakfast with coffee. Shower was also really nice to have and I used it several times to rinse myself off and my bikes. It's even better if you need to rinse the dirt out of a wound from MTB riding. Finally, the fuel mileage was great! Speed limits were 75+ in many areas and we were doing that and up to 80-84mph on cruise control and I was averaging over 24 mpg!
  32. 2 points
    hi well i did swap a manual tranny on my 2010 tc , its pretty much a bolt on parts from a manual focus, everything fits like the are the same car , brake and clutch hoses are identical, shifter and shifter cables are exactly the same and same lenght , clutch pedal and master cylinder are the same , in the exact same position , there is even a clutch line guide that bolts on behind the abs module that has the right hole and guide to bolt it on and has the perfect angle , all motor mounts and tranny mount are the same as the auto tranny, all the mechanical stuff is in, but i meay need some help with the wiring and computer stuff
  33. 2 points
    dotmaster206

    2014+ TC Manual Conversion

    Been a while...but fear not! The project rolls on... I ordered a shifter assembly from a Ford parts supplier in the UK: It looks awesome and I'm pumped about it. I also ordered a Mishimoto radiator to replace the OEM ST unit. My original radiator in my 9-2x was the same design as the OEM ST one - crimped on plastic end tanks - and cracked open on my one day. I'm not going to see that happen again. This week, Vaccar will be swapping the complete wiring harness from the ST into the TC. They are very close, but not quite close enough for comfort, and this will make sure we don't end up with some crazy electrical gremlin that is impossible to understand due to a mix of systems.
  34. 2 points
    BSUPC

    Useful Info 2010-2013 TC's

    Was sent this link tonight from a friend at work who has as TC also. It has some pretty useful videos from what I have seen so far. https://www.carcarekiosk.com/video/2010_Ford_Transit_Connect_XLT_2.0L_4_Cyl._Mini_Cargo_Van/air_conditioner/recharge_freon
  35. 2 points
    Loafer

    Great Sounding Mufflers

    Beta Don, I was thinking during the quiet hours how fortunate I was when I started driving. Many of the younger folks today have no sense of how things were back then. When I was in high school I purchased a 51' Ford Coupe in good shape for $100.00. Gas at that time was 17 cents a gallon. Older model hotrods from the 30's and 40's were everywhere. My friend had a 49 merc coupe painted bright yellow with the sweetest sounding glass packs imaginable. Fords especially the 40 coupe and the mercury coupe were everywhere. 1937 Fords were hot too, some stock, some not. Speed shops were prolific where work could be done reasonably. Every kid had a job and sunk all his or her money into their cars. Well, almost all of it anyway, we had to have stove pipe jeans, tee shirts, and bleached wing tip shoes. Most of us tried to do our own mechanical work before taking it to the speed shop for more advanced stuff. Even me, with the mechanical ability of a frog, did my own work. Cars were simpler then. Life was simpler then. Cruising was affordable and enjoyable then. The music of that time was too. Chuck Berry was a fixture in the area here and would often be seen driving along St. Charles Rock Road on his way to a gig. A great hangout was The Club Imperial where Ike and Tina Turner played and the Imperial was the swing dance we did. Pink and black were the cool colors and the Pink Mr. B. shirt was the thing. Black pants, pink belt, white shoes was dancin' dress. When the cops caught us for speeding, if we were polite, would just take our beer and give us a warning...LOL. It was the sweet sound of mufflers that brings it all back. You having owned two 57' chevs, a vette, and a 396 Chevelle SS would know that. Things were not much different no matter where you lived in the States. It seems almost an obligation to the younger folks of today that we somehow design a muffler for today's 4's that could carry on that sweet deep sounding tradition. When I mentioned the water drum I wasn't kidding. A small drum, filled about 1/3 to 1/2 with water sounds like a much bigger deep sounding drum.. This clearly has application to the muffler industry. Some home garage guy somewhere will figure it out. A sealed container of fluid properly engineered into a muffler likely would do the job. It's just not cool when your muffler sounds like a bee fart.
  36. 2 points
    dotmaster206

    2014+ TC Manual Conversion

    Got a sweet update today - the ST motor is in the van. It bolted right up with no complications. The clutch lines are hooked up as well, but that's all for now. Big milestone!
  37. 2 points
    Here is what I done. I decided that I was not ever going to put the crappy factory speakers back in. You have to remove the factory speaker from the ring that is screwed into the door and you will be re-using this ring. I have a grinder and just grinded down the ring until the new speaker was flush. Another benefit is that the new speakers wiring terminals aligned perfectly with the factory terminals. I soldered them together and now I have a factory look and no one is the wiser. I used JL Audio speakers. Tweeters are mounted in factory tweeter location. They were easy to sandwich between the plastic pieces on the A pillar and are invisible. The factory hole for the tweeters was perfect for the JL tweeters. Pics attached
  38. 2 points
    Spooner

    TC aftermarket wheels

    Looks good! Here are the 18's I put on recently.
  39. 2 points
    hdscarbro

    Utility floor / motorcycle hauling

    Here are a couple of photos of the utility floor that I just finished building for my 2014 LWB Transit Connect. The floor is constructed from two sheets of 1/2" underlayment plywood (glued and screwed together) and covered with vinyl garage flooring. The floor can be easily removed. It is fastened down using 3/8" bolts at 6 points. I used three strips of L-track to allow for a variety of tie-down options for hauling motorcycles and other items. I plan to make a couple of cross bars with eye bolts at the ends to create tie down points near the walls of the van and past the edges of the plywood. The cross bar can be bolted to the L-track. I should be able get two motorcycles inside by using the cross bars for the tie downs and the outer L-track strips for the wheel chock. When carrying two motorcycles, the front wheel has to be turned toward the side doors to provide handlebar clearance.
  40. 2 points
    Now onto the awkward floor fix,,,after lots of careful thought with weight and strength in mind,,,I decided to go with a galvanized Unistrut base and either a 1/2" oak or birch ply cut to fit the entire area from door to door and screwed down into the unistrut. if the 1/2" ends up being too flimsy I can go to 3/4". No carpeting will be cut and all existing M10x1.50 threaded holes are being used. This photo is simply mocking up what I'm doing here. It should explain itself if you know what you're looking at under that carpet. All Unistrut purchased from Home depot and the M10x1.50 hardware from Ace. The small 2x4 to the left will be replaced with another one of the small vertical risers I'm bolting in (Had to call it quits for the night because I didn't want to continue pissing my neighbors off cutting unitstrut with my mitre saw lol)
  41. 2 points
    We took an extended test drive up to Woodland Park to see how it would perform on steep grades. It went pretty well. This helped us make our decision to buy the TC. We had our son transfer in a TC from Oklahoma with the Titanium package and panoramic glass roof. I fly to Omaha next Thursday to pick it up and drive it back to Colorado. The dealer is installing the trailer tow package ahead of my arrival. The only thing I wanted and wasn't able to get is the 2nd row bench.
  42. 2 points
    Adding an audio amplifier, power inverter or other high current loads requires connecting heavy gauge cable directly to the battery. The Gen 2 TC’s battery is tucked under the front cowling and is enclosed in a covered box so making this connection difficult. Plus, having a big cable bolted to the battery with a big in-line fuse looks amateurish. There is a professional, safe and easy alternative. The front wall of the battery box holds the high current battery junction box (BJB). This is where all the power is distributed to other fuse blocks and modules in the TC. Remove the air filter housing. The BJB is attached to the front panel of the battery box. This panel lifts up and out to access the battery. Disconnect the (+) terminal and carefully pry open the BJB cover (5 tabs). You will have to cut some cable ties holding the cable on the front of the BJB. Here is the front of the BJB (air filter housing has been removed) This is the inside of the BJB. I have already added a cable on the bottom post of the unused slot on the right. The BJB has 10 circuits from 40A to 150A. The last slot on the right is used for glow plug power (60 amp) for a diesel motor. This slot will be available in all TCs in the United States. Connect your new power cable to the bottom terminal of this or any other open slot. Install the proper size MIDI style Littlefuse brand fuse. Attach with 5mm nylon locking insert nuts. I used #4 AWG cable and this fit with some trimming of the plastic housing. The #4 lug had to be shaved to fit the narrow slot. #4 AWG was overkill in my application. Remove the battery and battery box. Run the cable into the cab using the plastic square knock-out located on the firewall on the left (driver’s) side behind a perforated cutout in the padding/insulation. You can see the knock out under the master cylinder. I routed the cable under the center console. The console is easy to access by removing 4 screws. You do not need to remove any dash panels if you use an electrical fish tape or other stiff wire to pull the new cable under the short section of carpet and padding between the dash and console. The fish tape will poke out under the carpet near the accelerator pedal. Route the cable to your load. Plastic knock-out on the driver side firewall Important notes: Use the proper size and type of cable. I bought power cable designed for automotive audio amps. This is much different from cable used in homes and buildings (THHN for example). Automotive cable has many more strands of wire and is much more flexible…and expensive. Many of the cheaper offerings will be copper clad aluminum and the gauge may not be true. Use pure copper if you can afford it. My cable was sold by Kicker. What size cable? Note that the OEM cables in the BJB are #8 or #10 AWG but they are fused at 50 to 80A. This amperage does not comply with the NEC and does not need to. Do a Google search and you will find that you can safely use # 8 cable for automotive, 12 volt loads of 70 or 80A depending on the length of the run. The #4 AWG cable I used can handle well over 150A. If you are going to run large loads continuously, like power tools or large air compressors, you need to use an external generator. The TC is not a power plant and you should only connect large loads that are on intermittently, like a coffee maker or espresso machine. The standard alternator outputs 88 amps at 1800 rpm (150 amp max), so running the engine may not be enough power for large loads.
  43. 2 points
    dotmaster206

    2014+ TC Manual Conversion

    More progress: the engine is out of the TC: You can see the ST in the background engineless as well. I also ordered a limited slip differential from MFactory to go into the ST transmission before they stuff it into the van. It'll take about 2 weeks to get that delivered and installed, so in the meantime Vaccar will be working on the interior and sizing things up to try to anticipate as many fitment issues as possible.
  44. 2 points
    Doc Hoy

    Hood Latch

    Some reaction...... Because I did not know how the tumbler housing is installed (by use of the lateral bolt coming in from the driver's side of the vehicle (U.S. driver's side...Sorry guys.) I failed to realize that I could have saved myself some aggravation. Here is why: When I carved out the backing grill I started from the center front on the grill. Once I got started and saw the orientation of the bolt, I should have opened a port from the side which would have allowed used of a 1/4 inch drive socket and ratchet, maybe with a universal joint adapter. A hole in the right place would have allowed me to go straight in from my right to my left as I viewed the front of the truck. As it was, my access hole restricted me to the use of an open end wrench. The opening only allowed a purchase of about 20 to 30 degrees on every turn of the wrench. I worked that bolt for a long time getting it out. Had I made the access hole on the side, the socket and ratchet would have had the bolt out in less than a minute.
  45. 2 points
    DapperVan

    2014+ Lowering Springs

    Lowering springs from ModYourConnect.com
  46. 2 points
    dotmaster206

    2014+ TC Manual Conversion

    A long overdue update: I have finally found and purchased a donor ST! It was in West Virginia. Here it is in the trailer to head to Florida to Vaccar's shop: And here it is in the shop with the TC: There are a couple things to fix on the ST before they take the motor out - Vaccar thinks it may have a small vacuum or boost leak to chase, and it's better to get that nailed down now. But, things will really start moving now!
  47. 2 points
    Fifty150

    What goes here?

    The City has outfitted our Rangers with Transit Connects.......equipped with spotlights. They used the traditional a-pillar mount. You can probably do the same thing. I ran into a couple of them today, as I was on my way home. I was still wearing uniform pants, with a regular jacket covering my shirt. The girl driving the first vehicle said, "how did you get a new one, and unmarked?" It didn't occur to her that I was driving my own car, not a city vehicle.
  48. 2 points
    DonShockley

    Open 2014 Liftgate from Inside?

    This will be slightly different since it's from my 2015 TC wiring book instead of the 2016 provided by Don Ridley earlier. But here is a diagram of the equivalent connector in my 2015. Also, if you look closely at the connector, there is usually some numerical marking of the pins so you may be able to match the earlier schematic that way.
  49. 2 points
    Well it took me the entire day, but I got the springs installed. Not an easy job on these vans. Results are great though. Excuse the dirty van. No time to install the BoostMax yet. Another weekend project. Getting to the firewall is not easy on these vans.
  50. 2 points
    DonShockley

    Remove rear seats from the wagon

    When I was researching my 2015 TC purchase I saw mention of removable seats in the online manual. After I ended up buying a LWB wagon, I was surprised when I saw no way to just pop out the seats. It turns out only the short wheel base 5 passenger version has the removable 2nd row seats. However, I decided to remove the seats in my wagon anyway to install the seat covers. Each seat is held in with four T50 bolts and only takes a few minutes to remove. The 3rd row seats have the bolts at each corner of the seat frame and you do need to slide the seat forward and back to access each set of two. The second row seats have pairs of bolts at the front end of each seat rail. These are easy to access with the seat unfolded. Once the bolts are removed it does take a little lifting and wiggling to break the seats loose because there are also locating posts on the bottom of the rails that fit into holes in the floor. But once these are popped out, the seats just lift out. With just myself, the wider part of the 2nd row was a bit heavy but the others were no problem. It is easier to lift out the 2nd row if you fold them flat after unbolting. In the end, I liked the extra space available with the seats out so decided to leave it that way since I rarely have more than one passenger. I've been slowly working on modifications over the last couple weeks making a flat load floor for the area and using the extra space for storage. I probably need to do a write up with photos to share the info.
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