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  1. GBL did a write up which you may find helpful. Very comprehensive. There are several threads on this forum about the 6F35, Mercon LV, etc. G B L T.C. Member 2.5k Region:U.S. Northeast Posted September 25, 2016 Here is the post I did on the Transmission Change. The hardest part of this operation will be getting the TC Jacked up. Should be almost level . Remove the Under body dust shield . Look for the Drain Plug. 11 mm or 7/16 wrench. ] This style funnel will slide down into the Vent plug you just removed Put 3 quarts of fluid in [attacjpg] ] Run the TC for 5 to 10 minutes . Then drain the fluid again. Repeat this 2 more times You have Now used 9 quarts of fluid. Put the Drain plug back in make it snug this time. Add 3 quarts of fluid You have now used 12 quarts. Go under the car and Look for the indicator plug (14 mm wrench) Loosen the plug. Do not remove yet Start the engine with the engine running and the Car in park pull the plug and add fluid into the funnel until it just drips out the Indicator hole Replace plug put the Dust shield on , Pull the funnel and replace the vent cap. Total Fluid 13 Qts. With most of number 13 left There is no filter to change on this operation and the type of fluid is Mercon LV. Have fun!
    3 points
  2. When mine does that it is usually a result of a low voltage start. I disconnect the bat for 5 Min's and that usually triggers a correct reset soon. This has been happening to me for 10 years . Good luck and keep us posted.
    2 points
  3. This is exciting. Real progress!
    2 points
  4. Did the mechanical swap about two years ago . I used an SCT tuner and the Advantage racer software to get rid of all the auto related codes . It dives nicely for anywhere between 15-50 miles and then goes into limp mode . Tried to figure out what's not happy with Forscan , it really helped . Forscan let's you see codes that don't show up on other tuners / readers. There were many u-xxxx codes , lost contact with other modules . Then a few months ago I found a duratec manual trans focus zx3 . Now it's time to swap all the harnesses, modules ,cluster, cable driven throttle body etc. The real beauty is this will get rid of the Sync system. The speed sensor has to pass through APIM - accessory protocol interface module, on the transit it part of this Sync garbage. I plan to document it all on here so stay tuned .
    2 points
  5. Hey that was a massive wall of text with absolutely no formatting that I can't even begin to read. Can you try that again, using punctuation to split it up into sentences and breaking it up into paragraphs so I can actually read what you want to tell us?
    2 points
  6. G B L

    Winter tires

    Plenty of time in Maryland some time in Mid December would be good unless you have a trip to the Mtns. planed for a holiday or skiing! Here in Northern New England some time around Thanksgiving is the norm. The mud and snow and cold are similar to Estonia, but we can't get the cool headlights here!
    2 points
  7. Hey all... new to the Ford Transit party... I just purchased mine for road trips to the south east with my dog. I did my 1st trip over the 4th and found the ride very comfortable. My 1st repair was replacing the drivers latch, so my radio would turn off when I exited the vehicle. Since my plan is to have a vehicle that allows me to haul home improvement supplies... I added after market roof rails I found on eBay. I also added some sound deadening to the cargo area and all the doors. I am mainly here for insight on other minor modifications to make my trips more enjoyable.
    2 points
  8. The second generation pre-facelift Connects like yours have a 6-speed automatic called 6F35 which are shared with many Ford (and GM) products, you can also follow 6F55 tutorials, it's the same transmission but beefed up for larger/more powerful vehicles.
    2 points
  9. 2010 has a different trans. There are plenty of videos in youtube showing 6F35/6F55 drain and fill. It's very easy when you have the long neck fill tool to reach the fill hole.
    2 points
  10. Side note, cleaned my engine bay, looks much better. I did notice i seem to be missing some rubber thing that went around the fuel rail. Any idea what that is for?
    2 points
  11. Changed the sensor and everything appears to be back to normal. Pretty much the easiest fix ever except that the sensor let go suddenly and I punched myself in the eye. The ABS light did not go off immediately as I would have expected but after about a few hundred feet all the lights went off. I guess it needed a signal to reset. Thanks @donridley for all your input.
    2 points
  12. Hey everyone, just picked up my first Transit Connect. It's a 2013 XLT that had 28,000 original miles. It has only been on the road for about 3 years of it's life as it had a tree fall on the hood and windshield with only 1900 miles on it. After sitting in insurance limbo for 5 years, they totaled it due to the cost of repairs. A company that specializes in repairing salvaged vehicles purchased it, repaired it, and rebuilt the title. Shortly after, an electrician bought it and used it for about 26,000 miles before they realized it was too small for their needs. I picked it up about two weeks ago and it's been great. Other than a few scratches where someone keyed it while sitting in the insurance lot, and the bend in the hood, there is very little body damage. I have plans to build it out as a tiny home/camper that can still be used for hauling a few things and used in trade type work if needed. The interior will eventually be quite a bit different than most camper builds as I plan on using aluminum for most of the build - I want very little lumber to be used. It came with an awesome roof rack that rotates down so you don't have to climb up to reach the stuff on top. I plan on mounting solar panels on one side where I can service them standing next to it. Since it has had so little road time, almost no winter driving, and was washed daily by the company who used it as a fleet vehicle, it's rust free underneath (a big deal in Michigan considering cars start to rust the first winter). I plan on coating the underside and interior floor with PPG Ameracoat 240 epoxy to protect it from rusting. It's a marine grade product the salt trucks in Michigan are coated with to prevent rusting. So yeah, overall, it's already turning out great. I'm sure I'll have plenty of questions and eventually will document the build a little as I can. Thanks for having me here. Mike
    2 points
  13. I just did the Right side. This car was serviced at the dealer it's whole life until I got it. They dropped one of the handle bracket bolts into the door, which I found when it was apart, and then ram-rodded a 1/4-20 hex bolt into the brass insert. The insert spun in the plastic when I tried to remove the bolt. I extracted the insert and heat-set a proper 6mm nut in place. I scored the nut on each flat for a little more grab. Good as new, or at least, better than a ford dealer. This is exactly why I work on my own cars. You can't trust someone who doesn't care about your investment.
    2 points
  14. G B L

    '22 ECO Switch

    When I was young J.C Whitney a mail order auto parts company use to sell The Econo Meter. It was a dash mounted vacuum gauge that was painted to help you save fuel. Now the computer handles it.
    2 points
  15. As an avid outdoors and mountain biking enthusiast, I wanted a small van in which I could sleep in to facilitate and enhance my weekend adventures. I stumble upon a brand new 2019 TC that was already a bit converted (minimalist set up, but still), so I jumped right in and I haven't regret it! The initial set up allowed me to start using the TC as a little campervan right off the start which was awesome, but the optimization-design-comfort-lover in me wouldn't settle forever with that set up... So I made a mid-term iteration plan to get the van to my perfect set up, slowly but surely. Here's how it goes: PHASE 0 (aka what was already included in the initial conversion) Duration: 0 weekend, 100% completed Interior paneling finition Sofa-bred module (including 2" mattress) Amovible table Side and back windows Curtains tailored to each windows PHASE 1 (easy, quick and mostly necessary add-ons for the van's purpose) Duration: 1 weekend, 100% completed 2" Hitch at the back Bike Rack (Sportsrack 2 bikes, but upgraded to Panache T6 in 2022) Roof bars (Thule) Solar/roof shower (Yakima RoadShower, 10 gallons) Awning (GoXplore) Roof cargo box (Thule Pulse Alpine) Interior roof light switch (so that it doesn't turn on in the middle of the night whenever I open the door) That Thule roof cargo box also didn't make the cut in the next phase, although I loved the extra storage, I loved even more the solar pannel. PHASE 2 (body work and not-so-fun stuff so that my dog can stay cool in the van during summer) Duration: 2 weekends, 100% completed Sound deadening (Kilmat) Insulation (Thinsulate) Ventilation (2 Maxx Air Dome fans) Lighting (4 DEL 12 volts lights) Plumbing (23L water container, small electric pump and faucet) Solar panel (1 Renogy 100w) All-in-one battery (Goal Zero Power Station, 1000w) Secret flooring storage (backseat feet area of the Passenger version is unused/covered in the Cargo version) Even if I love the dark look, the interior space being so tiny, It just made the interior feels even more cramped. So since I already have to remove all the panels for this phase, I figured, eh, why not just pull out the black carpet finition and paint everything white. Looked less "finished" than before, but I knew this was only temporary. PHASE 3 (Interior finition and added storage) Duration: 2 weekends, 75% completed Roof & wall panelling (5/16" x 3" x 8' lambris) Overhead storage in the cabine (not shown in the pictures) Added Reflectix to the curtains (not shown in the pictures) 1.5" suspension lift kit New all-terrain summer/four-season tires is we can find something that fits! (got advice? comment away please haha) *Wow! Now it's starting to look like a tiny home ? PHASE 4 (New slide out sofa-bed & kitchen counter construction) Duration: 2-3 weekends, 0% completed Slide out sofa-bed construction Kitchen counter construction with a sink (finally) Refrigerator (probably an Iceco 12volts model) *Sorry for the few french notes, but I figured you would get the idea anyway! * ADVICE REQUEST ABOUT TIRES/SUSPENSION LIFT * I'm looking to buy new all-terrain tires for this little baby and I'm not exactly sure up to which tire profile I can go. The original tire size is 215-55R-16, but I would like more sturdy, heavy load capable and good looking tires. Last time I got towed, the guy told me the original Continental tires were not rated for such heavy load (considering the bike rack, bikes, fully loaded roadshower, etc.). I was thinking of these Falken Wildpeak or these BF Goodrich Mud-Terrain, but they got high aspect ratio which worries me a bit event if I'm thinking of adding a 1 to 1.5" suspension lift kit. Got tips? Please help this is waaaaay out of my comfort zone! Got questions? Don't hesitate, I might add product links and more specifications if there's an interest. That's it, I hoped this can be of use to you somehow ? For more photos and future updates on the van conversion you can go checkout my Instagram account @sarahthibo !
    1 point
  16. G B L T.C. Member 2.5k Region:U.S. Northeast Posted September 25, 2016 Here is the post I did on the Transmission Change. The hardest part of this operation will be getting the TC Jacked up. Should be almost level . Remove the Under body dust shield . Look for the Drain Plug. 11 mm or 7/16 wrench. ] This style funnel will slide down into the Vent plug you just removed Put 3 quarts of fluid in [attacjpg] ] Run the TC for 5 to 10 minutes . Then drain the fluid again. Repeat this 2 more times You have Now used 9 quarts of fluid. Put the Drain plug back in make it snug this time. Add 3 quarts of fluid You have now used 12 quarts. Go under the car and Look for the indicator plug (14 mm wrench) Loosen the plug. Do not remove yet Start the engine with the engine running and the Car in park pull the plug and add fluid into the funnel until it just drips out the Indicator hole Replace plug put the Dust shield on , Pull the funnel and replace the vent cap. Total Fluid 13 Qts. With most of number 13 left There is no filter to change on this operation and the type of fluid is Mercon LV. Have fun!
    1 point
  17. mrtn

    Intermediate starting issue

    Is the red immobolizer led blinking rapidly during the failure?
    1 point
  18. mrtn

    Interior Liner--

    It's absolutely essential to have the metal roof insulated in a camper.
    1 point
  19. Every one I have replaced since the late 90s have never shown any cracks or wear. My plan is to replace them every 10 years since I will not exceed 100,000 miles. I think the good-old-days of a broken fan belt are long gone.
    1 point
  20. mrtn

    Serpentine belt at 50k

    I too have looked for this information and mostly they claim it's good for 150K miles/10 years but there's no way I would stretch it like that. Pun intended.
    1 point
  21. I apologize for not being able to help, but I have the same issue, only with the driver's door. Maybe somebody knows where the sensors are located?
    1 point
  22. Thanks for your help Don. I've noted your advice ! Yes I'm aware that the rated current carrying capacity is different for automotive and I'm following the cable manufacturers specs in relation to cable length runs and protective fusing. I intend to post some pics and info on my mods. I have been successful in removing a lot of the interior trim and now know where the trims clips and mounting points are concealed. I have not yet broken a trim clip or damaged any of the plastics so its going well so far.... Cheers !
    1 point
  23. Don Ridley

    Interior Liner---

    You will have to drill holes in the plastic and secure some d-rings or hooks with short screws. Don't worry about resale value (it just doesn't matter... especially on a trade in). It's your van and you need it to function for you. Let the next owner worry about your modifications.
    1 point
  24. mrtn

    '22 ECO Switch

    It does not affect anything on a highway trip with a cruise control on. Most cars have these behaving identically. Main ways to raise the fuel economy is to numb the gas pedal to limit your input and smoothen little micro movements. Lowering shift points and delaying kickdown etc.
    1 point
  25. There is no regular interval. The better job you do on keeping the Oil clean the longer the Cam phaser and chain guides will last. Some of the 2.5s have clocked large mileages over 300000mi. It pays to keep the oil clean. As a side note the transmissions will benefit from Drain and fills at 25000 to 30000 mile intervals.
    1 point
  26. windguy

    2015 FTC Wagon

    Welcome to the forum and congrats on your new van. I also have a 2015, but a cargo model. There is a SEARCH box in the upper right corner of the page that will give you timely answers to a lot of questions. A good place to start. Don R is the upgrade wizard on the forum and his advice is always spot on. Good luck!
    1 point
  27. I have a 2019 TC (Canada), and I'm also doing a van conversion (75% completed yay!). I came across the same questioning. For simplicity, I opted for a quick little cut through the floor, added some hinges and there I had a little door to a "hidden" storage. I don't have a lot of photos of that part of the build, but there you can see the hole freshly cut (no door yet):
    1 point
  28. Chip

    INTERIOR HANGING RACK

    It isn’t something I want to add in my TC, but I really like Windguys’ rack, and appreciate the post. The space where I’d like to add a rack is over the driver and passenger seats, since that is just wasted airspace. I dream of raising the seats and having storage underneath. I don’t like the TC seats being down low, like in a hole. But there would be too many challenges to lifting the seats more than a few inches, so an overhead rack is the only way I can envision making use of all that space. Windguys’ photos show two vertical tubes near the middle of the rack, between the rack and the roof. Are those supports, and are they attached to the roof, and if so, how? Love the lighting! Is that wired to the existing light wires or a separate circuit? When camping in my van, I get annoyed by the interior light staying on after the doors are closed, so I like the idea of manually operated switch. That’s something I want to address—on my “when I get around to it” list. Good post—thanks.
    1 point
  29. Attached is what I came up with.
    1 point
  30. mrtn

    Isn't this the cutest van

    https://www.topgear.com/car-news/electric/royal-mails-new-electric-delivery-van-just-cutest
    1 point
  31. Thanks! I found the knock-out described in your original post but where is the hole when I'm looking in the engine bay? From the looks of the location from the interior ... seems to be under / behind the battery? Trying to install this to help keep my battery bank topped up. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q5VYPCF
    1 point
  32. I know this is old but I kept coming to this thread when researching. I have a 2019 TC wagon and yes they fit! I have 215/65/16 General Grabber ATX. No rubbing even over speed bumps/steep driveways etc. awesome tires. Hopefully this helps someone.
    1 point
  33. arengant

    Keyless Entry Keypad

    I figured it out! For those who buy the new keypad (only one available now) you have to change frequency of the key pad. I followed the thread and PDF from the full size transit forum: https://www.fordtransitusaforum.com/threads/keyless-entry-installation-2018.63202/page-3#post-989372
    1 point
  34. rodent 66

    Wax or Sealant

    This is my personal experience. Having owned a new motorhome (if you can imagine how long it would take to wax one), this is what the RV dealers use to keep these big monstrousties looking good. They use a wash /wax that has a lot of Carnuba wax in the solution. By washing with a soft 12” wide brush w/extension handle the new paint finish will get a coat of Carnuba wax on it. Although we had a motorhome garage to keep it in it still gets dust, dirt, bugs on the outside after driving. It kept it looking like new untill we sold it many yrs later. I also used this type wash/wax on my personal pick ups I owned that spent their lives out in the sun. One ( after 11 years in the sun) showed no signs of oxidation or break down of the clear coat ( vehicle was silver color). Generally I would do this about (4) times a yr on my pick ups. Using the wash/wax w/Carnuba in a bucket with a soft 12” wide brush and extension handle . I would double the amount of solution called for that mixed with water. Water would still bead up after (3) months. Just my 2 cents.
    1 point
  35. On my van I am wanting to install some led strobe lights, I was having a horrible time to find an access point, until I read this thread. On my 2013 TC XLT the access hole under the dash is covered with just a piece of tape, Hmmm. But when I peeled it back to investigate it, i see 2 oval holes, no rubber plugs. Would anyone happen to know what the ford part number would be for these plugs ? And also..under the hood, I'd have never have found that access hole, it's practically behind the fuse box. I spent almost 45 min under the van looking for an access, Almost got stuck getting all jammed up in there trying to find a spot. seems they are making it to where it is almost impossible to put anything thru the firewall.. Also with my 2013, what so called Generation is mine ? I see a lot about gen 1,2,3 etc. Thanks..
    1 point
  36. Don Ridley

    a few dimentions

    I found this in my files. 2016_Transit_Connect_v1-0.pdf
    1 point
  37. A lot of Transit Connect delivery vans in my area use a rooftop mounted refrigeration unit.
    1 point
  38. If these look like what you mean, and the post size is about right, I can hook you up with a couple free. I have leftovers from when I did my project. But I did have to find the right size existing holes in the bodywork to use. IIRC I got them on eBay because I'm not seeing them in my Amazon history.
    1 point
  39. Since I already had the battery out, and since it's already 3+ years old, and since it's so doggone difficult to get at . . . . and since I'm hooking up a high current load which will need to run off the battery when I stop for gas or to eat lunch, it only made sense to replace it with something better. Ford has chosen to use 'Ford sized' batteries in all their newer vehicles which I suspect was done to try and enhance battery sales at the dealerships. Our battery is a 'BXT-96R' which doesn't seem to exist anywhere but from Ford - Granted, you can buy a few 'equivalent' size replacements elsewhere Anyway, I wanted a higher capacity battery and I wanted an AGM, so after a good bit of research I settled on a Duracell Group 48 (H6) AGM from Sam's Club - $159.99. It has a 20 amp hour rate of 70 (3.5 amp draw for 20 hours) and much better specs than the OEM battery and it's made in the USA. 3 year free replacement and a 5 year pro-rated warranty Battery Electrolyte Composition: Glass Mat Battery End Type: Top Post BCI Group Size:48 CA at 32 degrees F:875 CCA at 0 degrees F:760 Polarity: Right Positive Reserve Capacity:120 The BXT-96R has only 500 cold cranking amps It's *almost* a drop in replacement for our OEM battery. It's about 1/2 inch taller, but fits in the battery box OK and you can even use the OEM hold down clamp if you remove the rear battery box spacer so the battery can slide back just a little to center the battery on the hold down studs. Then the clamp fits OK if you raise (or remove) the lifting handles that come on the battery - They fold back down after the clamp is installed, so you don't have to remove them If you intend to run high current accessories for even a short time with the engine not running, an upgrade to a better battery is probably a smart move . . . . especially if your current battery is 3 or 4 years old Don
    1 point
  40. Yes, on the TC the negative battery cable is only about 6 inches long. It runs from the battery to the nearest point on the chassis and bonds there. There is no negative cable from the battery to the engine block, or from the battery to any other high load application. Every negative in the car is a short cable direct to the unibody chassis . . . . and there are literally hundreds of them - Negative connections take up several pages in the car's book of wiring diagrams I've already scoped out the place near the jack where I'll bond the negative for my inverter Don
    1 point
  41. When you ran that cable to the back for power, did you run a ground return with it? I've seen problems with vehicles that have rear heat/cooling where corrosion was caused apparently by residual current in the fluids. I hear you on the battery installation. A friend has a car where you have to remove a frame member to get the battery out. That car always draws blood for any service. I don't anticipate going that far, I'm still trying to find the right place for the control heads, but it's likely my radios will live under the front seats. I always run power and ground though, and I fuse both. I set the fuses appropriate to the load, and the wire well beyond, so that there's no possibility of fire if something goes wrong.
    1 point
  42. A small note for clarifaction - Don's last photo (of the firewall knockout) is taken from inside the car, looking up and to the left of the brake pedal and not from under the hood like the other photos. If you drill your hole in the plastic knockout in the lower left corner (looking under the dash facing forward) the cable will be routed alongside the battery box when you put it back in. I cut an 'X' hole in the padding removed from the inside and routed the cable through it so that sound insulation could be put back over the knockout I armored my cable under the hood with 3/8ths protective wire wrap, Item # 66987 from Harbor Freight, $2.99 - It's a perfect fit for a single #4 cable. I tied the cable doown with cable ties so it can't move and rub against anything A note for the not so capable DIY'ers - When your Gen 2 battery dies, buy the new battery from someone who offers 'Free Installation' . . . . if you watch them install it, you'll surely thank me after Don
    1 point
  43. Thanks! - Man, that's some expensive conduit. I bought a 25' coil of super flexible red #4 Stereo power cable on eBay for $15 with free shipping. Don't you hate it when the plastic tube to protect your expensive cable costs more than the cable itself? Don
    1 point
  44. Don, Is there a 'quick and easy' way to get a 4 gauge wire from the BJB to the back of the van? I would like to install an inverter in the opening panel at the rear on the drivers side. I'm thinking a 750 watt inverter, though I would likely never draw more than 300 to 400 watts from it. A 4 gauge wire with a 60 amp fuse for the positive should be all I'd need - I can ground the negative lead of the inverter to the chassis near the inverter Don
    1 point
  45. I forget to add that I wrapped the cable with Tesa wire loom tape. This stuff is strong and helps pull the cable under and through things. Tesa's Most Advanced High Heat Harness Tape 51036 Mercedes, BMW, Audi, VW https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I2MLN2Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_zWL5yb4JATNJH I found it cheaper on eBay.
    1 point
  46. I went with the Auxbeam F-16 Series off of Amazon. SO far I love them. As far as the rest of the lights go, I have changed all of them to LED's except the two map lights, the side turn signals, and the rear turn signals. All others have been swapped out. I have also swapped out all of the bulbs in my house and new workshop for LED's. I also have a original Streamlight Stinger converted over to LED via the terralux conversion kit, and a Streamlight Stinger DS HP LED. Fell in love with the Streamlight name brand during my time in the Fire Dept. and it just carried over to my time as a Correctional Officer for the State. I am obsessed with LED's. I love anything that runs cooler, uses less power, and last way longer.
    1 point
  47. Trying to figure out how to post a video on here. Might have to go through youtube and just post the link. But I will get a video posted from my dash cam driving at night. I started out by running HID's for a year and a half. These things were great as long as you leave them in either low or high beam. When you start switching between the two for cars on the road, one or both will get stuck. By stuck I mean if you are in high beam and switch to low beam one light will go to low and the other will get stuck in high. Or this could be both stuck in high. Also with the HID's you have the warm up period when you turn them on. The warm up is only 20-60 seconds long and was not to much of a problem for me but could be for some. Switched over to LED's a few months ago and love them. They are instant on, do not get stuck when switching from low to high, and are just as bright as the HID's were. Also the LED's are a lot easier to install over the HID's.
    1 point
  48. Fifty150

    Camper conversion

    Tons of videos on youtube. https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=transit+connect+camper About 17,000 results 2:46 Ford Transit Connect Camper Conversion. rob bakerloo 10 months ago 33,994 views The conversion of my Ford transit connect, took about 6 weeks to complete. 13:05 2010 Ford Transit Connect Camper Steve Remmington 5 months ago 6,367 views In today's video I discuss the features and additions on my 2010 Ford Transit Connect Cargo van. This is the XLT model which ... 3:44 Van camper from Ford Transit Connect 2015 Richard Bryson 1 month ago 4,343 views Basic 1 to 2 person camper. 9:05 Transit Camper Van Jay Droeger 1 year ago 58,182 views 2010 Ford Transit Connect Camper Van RV conversion. 1:33 Packing Up a 2015 Transit Connect DIY Camper Van Teresa Mendez 1 year ago 6,087 views We recently bought a 2015 Ford Transit Connect cargo van, and converted it ourselves into a camper. This is a time lapse video of ... 2:30 Woodworker mods Ford Transit into camper van Boing Boing Video 3 years ago 158,983 views This post is sponsored by the Ford Transit Connect: When talented woodworker Eric Cournoyer isn't immersed in sawdust, you'd ... 2:38 Ruby's Conversion Jenna Bird 8 months ago 9,992 views turning our 2010 Ford Transit Connect into our very first micro-camper. 7:17 Transit connect camper not vw t5 or t4 Connect Campers 1 month ago 804 views Campervan for sale. Van in the week and then a camper This is ready to go complete in the sale is a microwave, tv, cool box ... 4:31 Ford Transit Connect Camper Conversion PART 2. rob bakerloo 6 months ago 6,466 views So this is a little vid just to show briefly what I've done. 1:16 KURT KAMPER ford transit connect camper van rv minivan Morehead Design Laboratories Inc 1 year ago 11,675 views ford transit connect camper van rv minivan to include, ceramic insulation, maxxfan deluxe. altenator charging cirucit with VSR. 30:14 Stealth camper van for street preaching (revised) jesuscross9 4 weeks ago 196 views How you can get 35 feet of living space in a small Ford Transit Connect. In this video I demonstrate it can be done. I first give a ten ... 6:11 Transit Connect camper conversion Nita Skidmore 1 year ago 33,001 views 0:19 transit connect camper silverstreak Morehead Design Laboratories Inc 1 year ago 2,887 views Ford Transit Connect gen 1. To include: power, sleeping, rack, awning, screen door,shore power,roof vent, and more... information ... 1:37 Newberg Ford, Transit Connect Camper Conversion. Ford Transit Connect RV NewbergFord1 4 years ago 80,604 views Newberg Ford, Ford Transit Connect Camper Conversion van. 1:21 ford transit connect camper windows floor insulation and ceiling vent Morehead Design Laboratories Inc 2 years ago 12,113 views a starter kit for rosanne, epoxy floor, insulation (basic), maxxfan deluxe, rear windows, solart maintainer, aux battery system with ... 13VIDEOS Ford connect camper massimiliano021071 7:59Connect Campers - Promoting a new van conversion kit. Filmed & produced by Peter Wood 13:37A New MPV Campervan For JesterBushcraft - First Outing View full playlist (13 videos) 7:59 Connect Campers - Promoting a new van conversion kit. Filmed & produced by Peter Wood faith6651 2 years ago 118,289 views Jim Fishwick - My take on a van conversion kit to be supplied by me. Value for money, easy to install with exploded drawing to ... 2:00 Van camper from Ford Transit Connect 2015 part 2 Richard Bryson 1 month ago 2,161 views Sleeping mode. 4:07 Ford connect camper van,day van TheSkyedoggy 1 year ago 21,755 views Ford transit connect camper project. Ford Transit Connect Stealth Camper conversion Morehead Design Laboratories Inc 1 year ago 7,831 views Ford Transit Connect Stealth Camper conversion features, cargo platform, rear door fold-up sink, blackout curtains, wall mounted ...
    1 point
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