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Showing most liked content since 01/21/2011 in all areas

  1. 9 points
    Just got this information from the Service Manager where I purchased my 2017 TC XL Cargo Van: --------------------------------- SSM 46321 - 2014-2017 Transit Connect - Battery Drain Due to Frequent Door Openings and Approach Light Strategy Some 2014-2017 Transit Connect vehicles may exhibit a condition that causes the battery to discharge. If normal battery drain diagnosis leads to no issues, it may be caused by the approach lights illuminating every time the body control module (BCM) receives a lock/unlock signal or opening any door. If the door remains open, the lights will remain illuminated for up to 10 minutes. If the vehicle was built on or before 11-Dec-2016, reprogram the BCM to the latest calibration using IDS release 103.05 and higher. Calibration files may also be obtained at www.motorcraft.com. For all vehicles, access the BCM Configuration Parameters. Select Module Programming, Programmable Parameters, Personality, Approach Light. Choose Disabled and follow the screen prompts to completion. Use causal part 14A068 and applicable labor operations in section 10 of the SLTS manual. APPLICABLE VEHICLES 2014 - 2017 CAR: HC V408 (EU) --------------------------------- The fix was done at no cost, under my warranty. Hope this helps!
  2. 6 points
    bahavw

    Mods so far...

    I have a 2015 TC ecoboost SWB wagon. I started modifying as soon as I got home. This lit will help me remember it all. And maybe Ford will listen too. Of course there are those damn US regulations. 1. Removed the cross bars for gas milage. 2. Pulled the rear bench seat to storage > 100# lost 3. Installed removable rubber floor mats in the cargo area for dirt and sound deadening 4. Removed the intake muffler in front of the radiator, it makes it quiet but restricts airflow. With it gone I have a factory cold air intake. Probably standard in Europe...And this thing has a nice air filter box w/360 degree filter. 5. Stuffed 4" foam into all the rear quarter interior panels for sound deadening. Right thru the access panels. 6. Replaced all interior lights with LED's, 4 in all, I camp a lot and I don't like dead batteries. Pisses me off that the exterior lights stay on when the door is open. Maybe I can reprogram that, or more LEDs At this point I was ready to get adventurous... 7. Removed the rear interior door panels to find they were designed with 3/4" space for sound deadening but there was nothing there. I guess you have to get the Titanium for that. Mine is an XLT so I just stuffed 1" of fiberfill in there and closed it up. Wow what a difference! 8. Ok, now I know, I proceeded to remove the front door panels and rear hatch and stuff them full of foam or something...and now I drive a Titanium. I was thinking about getting the rear badge and sticking it on... 9. Got sticky rubber stair treads and installed them on the rear bumper for accessing the roof. Cut several pieces to fit perfectly, it looks factory. Where did that go Ford? 10. Tinted the front windows to 30% and put a tinted windshield visor down to the AS line that's Lemo black. The AC works much better now. 11. Where the rear seats mount there are two little 1/4" holes near the doors that actually go thru to the outside. I plugged them with sealant. It's quieter and it'll float longer now. 12. Got a cargo carrier for the receiver hitch, I can carry another box of gear without a loss of aerodynamics. Results: 1. You have to close the doors with a little more effort since the air seal is so tight, or crack a window. 2. She is quiet and comfortable at 100 MPH! 3. I have never gotten less than 26 MPG on a tank. I've gotten as high as 30 on a full tank. My miles to empty is up to 427 on a full tank. I have gotten 34.9 for 45 miles in tight fast moving traffic. I can reliably get 32 MPG if I drive 65 and baby it. Next Mods: 1. LED exterior lights 2. Remove a muffler...there is a resonator and a muffler. I hear removing the resonator doesn't make much difference, so maybe I'll remove the muffler and make it load!! I will get 35 MPG before I'm done. 3. Maybe a computer tuner, they have settings for MPG. And maybe I can reprogram those stupid lights... This van is everything I expected and It will only get better. I'll keep you posted..
  3. 5 points
    I went to my local dealer today with the intent of making sure they can perform this SSM under my 3yr/36k bumper-to-bumper warranty and to give them a heads up if they want prepare with any downloads they need to perform to minimize the amount of time they will need my van in service. I gave the service advisor the attached doc below, he read it, and said they will do this under warranty if I'm having a battery issue. He gave me back the piece of paper, said this type of service is done by their 'electrical tech' and they will need the van for a few days, so make an appointment when I'm ready. Two days? Attitude aside, I'm glad they are willing to make this fix under warranty, I hope. Chapter two to follow. Stand by. SSM 46321 Dark mode.pdf
  4. 5 points
    buckethead

    Removed the Floor Extension Today

    Today I pulled out all the interior pieces in the cargo area of my 2015 Transit Connect cargo van including the floor extension. It was surprisingly easy. There is a lot of room under there. It has me rethinking some things.
  5. 5 points
    Engine off, key in pocket, any rear door open: Push the turn signal switch forward then back. Hear one chirp. This tuns off the outside lights until the next time the car has been locked. The dome lights will still stay on for ten minutes after each time a front door has been closed and opened.
  6. 4 points
    I complained about the entry illumination to my dealer, and expressed my concern that it would drain the battery on my 2017 TC XL Cargo Van, since it is being converted to a weekend camper. The service tech hooked up their Integrated Diagnostic System computer to the vehicle's On-board Diagnostic port and scrolled through the Body Control Module menus, but couldn't find any way to shorten or turn off the unwelcome 10-minute "Welcome Lighting." So, I spoke with the dealership's service director, who went online and looked through Ford's technical bulletins for customer complaints about battery drain caused by the long open-door lighting delay. Sure enough, Ford had come out with a firmware update for the TC's Body Control Module. Once my vehicle's module had been updated with the new firmware, the tech was able to access the menu to turn off the lighting. The software update and programming change was covered under my warranty. Now that I am finally in "Dark Mode" I am a happy camper. Moral of the story: Keep complaining until you get results. Let us know how you fare with your dealer.
  7. 4 points
    MarcusBrody

    TC Wagon camper

    Middle seats back up and front platform packed. We'll use the space inside the flatform (it's framed with 1x4s, so there's a bit of space in there). The platform is rigid, so I'm contemplating adding a set of longer folding legs and letting it double as a pull out table. The folded platform section can be stowed on top of either the front or back half of the rear plaform, so you can access either of the folding sections. One last shot to show that having the plaform in the van has no affect on the functionality of the center row of seats.
  8. 3 points
    Fifty150

    Winter Tire Thread

    They don't make earthquake tire.
  9. 3 points
    CATFISH

    2016 XLT

    Here's a few shots of my 16 XLT, Mods include 18" Focus ST wheels that I powder coated gloss black. All the black textured plastic body parts were color matched blue, except for the grille opening and fog bezels which i finished in glosss black. And I also added 35mm front and 40mm rear drop springs. I suffer from automotive OCD, and since I've had it about 8 months, I've already started looking for it's replacement.. but It's delivered more than 15K trouble free miles with an impressive 28+ mpg. It was my first modern Ford, but probably not my last...
  10. 3 points
    chong

    Vincent VanGoing 1.0

    Had the day off Friday so I decided it was time to add heated seats to my Van. This isn't my first rodeo with adding heated seats to a car that didn't come with them from the factory. The first step was to yank the seats: Having an elevated work area makes things go a bit faster: Disassemble, add the heating element, reassemble: We pulled the center console and mounted up the switches: Wired everything up to switched power and we're off to the races: No more cold butts!
  11. 3 points
    Found a sticky note in my van looks like ford TSB information the technician used. Tried to upload a picture of it the paper found but got a error message file to large? Anyway refers to TSB 12651D4 reprogram BEC module SSM 46321 test 9002 WF Dark mode . Maybe someone can decode this .how do you upload a simple picture off my cell phone to this message board? Hope this helps
  12. 3 points
    JohnnyB

    Comfort and noise on long trips?

    I appreciate everyones feedback, I finally bought one a 2017 XLT , loaded with upgrades, leather seats, Navigation, Blind spot sensors, very pleased with it so far.
  13. 3 points
    So, to continue a reply to an earlier thread, and to fulfill a request to share lessons learned/knowledge gained, here's how it worked when I installed a Pioneer NEX-4200 (a carplay/android auto compatible receiver) in my 2016 TC XLT with the 4.3" screen (non-nav/non-touch) sync system. In a word, it was close to perfect. Here's what I needed: 1) The Pioneer NEX-4200 2) iDatalink's Maestro steering wheel control box, plus... 3) Their FO2 (Ford harness) and 4) Their SAT-1 Satellite radio antenna adapter. 5) A Metra Metra 99-5831G Double DIN dashboard adapter. 6) A Sirius Satellite Radio adapter 7) A Metra antenna adapter Model 40-EU10 8) A USB port that replaces the TC's 12v power port. 9) A microphone. My total cost for all this was about $250 (plus the cost of the Pioneer head unit, about $500 with rebate). That's pricier than most solutions—but I think it was worth it for reasons I'll explain below. I worked with my friend John, who owns Angel's Electronics—a car stereo installer south of downtown Los Angeles. John has done all my installs, and he's very cool about allowing customers to participate. How it was done: 1) Prior to install, I downloaded iDataLink's very clear PDF-based instruction sheet. 2) Also prior to install, you need to flash your Maestro module to set it up for your particular car model. The flashing process allows you to customize steering wheel controls and other features. The module won't work unless it is flashed; to flash you need to register with iDatalink, download their (annoyingly Windows-only) software utility, plug the device into your computer with the included USB cable. The thread I linked below—from iDataLink's tech support—states that this only works with Windows. This is true and not true. If you have a Mac, you can make it work using the Parallels emulation software—but not with a Windows 10 installation (or even using an earlier version of Internet Explorer in that installation; you mayu have better luck than me.) Instead, you'll need to create a new virtual machine using Parallels. The GREAT news is that you don't have to buy Windows to do this. You simply use the Parallels Virtual Machine Creation Wizard to install a free Windows development environment, choosing "Modern IE test environments" from the "Free Systems" menu; from there, you'll be given the option of a number of test builds—I chose IE 11 on Windows 7, since that's the one that folks seem to have the best luck with. Once it is installed, you simply plug the iDatalinlk into your Mac's USB port; then (patiently) wait for the running Windows system to recognize it and install drivers. After that, you can download the Maestro flashing utility (you'll need to be registered for this, and registration approval can take a few hours, so be prepared for a wait if you haven't already registered.) The flashing interface and process is very quick, visual, and self-explanatory. 3) Once you've flashed and assembled the harnesses to your new radio, you have to remove the old one. You pop the top cover off, then the Ford dashboard adapter, exposing the radio itself. The radio pops out with a few screws; you'll need to carefully fish around for the connectors to both the radio and the screen above. Follow the instructions on iDatalink's downloadable PDF documentation. Everything is very self-explanatory and I didn't have to do any major cutting or rewiring. The fundamental principle at work here is that you're doing to be disabling—that means completely disconnecting—the Ford 4.3" screen; the iDatalink will move all of Sync's functions (yes, that includes backup camera and backup sensors) to the compatible head unit (the Pioneer worked) of your choice. That leaves you with a blank screen above the new head unit. I've seen that some folks keep the backup camera wired to that, but iDataLink says this leads to problems, so I was OK with the blank screen, since it gave me a convenient mounting location for my giant phone (see attached pictures.) Note: there is a European-import double DIN adapter that allows you to remove the Ford display and replace it with a pocket; CarAV is the manufacturer. It is available on Amazon, but delivery times range from 30-60 days to the US, so I passed. 4) If you want satellite radio, you'll need a Sirius adapter; the SAT-1 antenna adapter allows you to use the built-in Ford Sirius Antenna, but the receiver itself is built in to the radio you'll be removing, so you need a new receiver. 5) To keep things neat, I pulled the Ford 12v/cigarette lighter socket and replaced it with a perfect-fit USB/Aux adapter from Rerii (about $10 on Amazon), wiring the USB and Aux inputs from the radio, down under the console, direct to that. 6) Once you've got it all wired, reassemble and you're good to go. Your steering wheel controls will work—all of them, in my experience—as will your LED console display (the one between the instrument panel gauges). However, there are a few caveats and gotchas and notes: One is specific to the Pioneer unit I chose. It has a motorized faceplate, and the Metra adapter has a little bit of a lip that created a hitch to the faceplate's movement, both when turning the radio on and removing the faceplate. The motor keeps trying to push the faceplate forward when it hitches there, so that's bad. I did a little careful grinding down—about a millimeter; no more, because you don't want a loose fit—and the hitch disappeared. Another minor gotcha—and I think this would be true for any radio, although different types of display might perform differently—is that the Ford's dashboard design angles the radio display slightly up. You can see it fine, but that makes it more susceptible to glare. On a sunny Southern California day, the glare almost made the screen unviewable until I went into the Pioneer's settings and disabled the auto day/night brightness setting, leaving it on permanent daytime brightness. That makes the screen better than tolerable on the sunniest days/angles, and perfectly fine when there's no direct sunlight (of course, at night, the damn thing glows like a Cape Cod lighthouse, but...). Another solution I might try is a strip of tint at the very top edge of the windshield. I might try it. I might not. Another point is that the Pioneer unit seems to offer two different means of connecting your phone for calls—it's internal bluetooth, and the still-operative Sync bluetooth. I haven't played with this, and had to install and external microphone since I use Apple's Carplay, which (at least for the Pioneer) is currently a wired-only connection. One very cool thing is the iDatalink compatibility—one of the adapters included leads goes to the OBDI port on the car; that allows the head unit to display all kinds of info (I'll post some photos of this in a bit.) Other iDatalink compatible receivers—from Kenwood, Alpine, maybe others - should do the same. Carplay and Pioneer have some known glitches—random resets and disconnects, mostly, which I've noticed more when using the Audible audiobooks app—but we're talking very low frequency. Once nice thing about Carplay, if you've got an iPhone, is that you simply plug in your phone and it works; no drilling through menus for device selection. This makes my wife, with whom I share this car, very happy. So, overall—a pricier solution than the factory adapter Metra/Axxess offers, but potentially with some additional and useful functionality. I can't say mine is better, since I haven't tried the Metra/Axxess system. User BetaDon has installed that system, to very good results, he says, including retaining the upper/OE display functionality. His account is here: Other Links: iDataLink: http://maestro.idatalink.com Metra Dash Adapter: http://www.metraonline.com/part/99-5831G Metra Antenna Adapter: http://www.metraonline.com/part/40-EU10 USB socket adapter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S6IO0NG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1 A tech support thread I started on iDataLink to get advice on this (registration may be required): http://www.12voltdata.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=323&t=16019 I'll upload some pictures in the follow-up reply. Questions and comments, welcome, of course.
  14. 3 points
    ok, so heres a basic run down of what has been happening on my build. tape a giant area off, and mark off where the 14x14" hole is going to be cut. drill the 4 corners and cut out the square. i used a cut off wheel on a die grinder. quick and dirty (like my jokes). i have access to everything, all the cutters, air nibblers, shears, etc etc, but i chose the die grinder because i am well versed in its usage. PRO TIP: tape a trash bag below the area you're going to cut, this seriously kept out 98% of the crap that would have gone all over my bed platform (i removed the cushions) Couple quick shots of the fan up there, kinda just seeing how monster this thing is. i really wish they made like a 8x8" fan, cuz this is totally overkill. the only other powered fan (size anyways) is a vent line vanair and its like 6.25" circle, pretty noisy due to the "squirrel cage blower" and only has one speed. go big or go home i say. Obligatory head thru the hole in the van shot. now, ill 100% admit to getting in the groove and getting this MOFO installed for the night, i forgot to take a picture of @Hein 's BEAUTIFUL adapter, this thing is NO JOKE. its CNC machined to match the curvature in the roof, both front and back, and side to side (like EZ-E's switches), fills in the ribs in the roof to perfection. Well worth the entry price of ~$65 taped off a perimeter, dulled the paint with a Grey scotch brite pad, wiped down with isopropyl alcohol, let dry i used 3M window weld as spec'd in the instructions, 3 beads 1/8" high/wide all around, light clamps to hold as needed. after the squeeze out, used a gloved finger, and made a little fillet of the window weld, then peeled the tape, nice crispy lines. DONE! well, at least with the roof adapter to give the fan flange something flat/level to sit on. let me tell you, this thing is 100% level front to rear and left to right, very impressed.
  15. 3 points
    I added some nice LED lights to the cargo area of my SWB 2016 wagon. The lights have an OEM look and provide just enough light to illuminate the cargo area. The lights are mfg by Brand Motion http://www.brandmotion.com/oem-integration/led-lighting/loftlite-led-interior-lighting-kit.html The total lumens from the 4 lights is probably around 90-100. I tapped into the wiring for the side mounted cargo lights. The lights turn on and off with the doors. They dim as the interior lights turn off like the stock incandescent lamps. Each light has a function where separate power can be wired to the light to turn it on by pushing the center of the lamp. Unfortunately this won't work in the TC because the TC dims the lights and turns them off by raising the negative supply to the lamps from 0 volts to +12 volts. So when the lights are off both leads are at +12V. The "push-on" function won't work because when the lamps are off there is no negative supply to the lamp. This is not a problem for me because I would never be in a position to turn the lights on while I am driving. If you wanted them to be reading lights for passengers it would not work. The installation is relatively easy. You have to carefully pull down the headliner just enough to access the back side and cut 4 holes. The insulation on the headliner has to be shaved away so the bezel can snap onto the lamp (use an xacto knife and cut at a 45 deg angle from the bottom of the hole). You will also need to temporarily wedge something between the front lamp housing and the roof so you can push the bezel on. I cut a short piece of PVC pipe and stuck it on a long rod. You remove the wedge once the unit is snapped into place.
  16. 3 points
    tcconvert

    Interior panels added

    I have added interior panels over the ugly window cutouts. 3mm Alupanel was used and the cavity behind the panel is stuffed with 12 oz. of Polyfil for sound deadening and insulation. The plastic layer in the sheeting also serves as a barrier. The process was somewhat involved and required several steps. Heavy paper patterns were developed first. Next the patterns were transferred to cardboard. Cardboard was cut out and holes were punched, the targets being the three 3/8" threaded holes in the frame. After some further adjustments and a test attach of the template using the actual bolts, the carboard pattern was used to mark out the shape on the Alupanel material. The shape was cut out and the edges filed and sanded smooth. Getting the panels attached to the van walls requires some force. The material must be forced inwards to allow the 1 1/4" bolts to get started in the threaded holes in the walls. This is due to the slight curvature of the van's side walls. Large rubber washers cushion the panels on both the front and back. Before snugging down all bolts 12 oz. of Polyfil were stuffed between the panel and the wall. A long stick was used to push the Polyfil and adjust it into place. A test fit of the panels without the Polyfil revealed that the material does actually deaden sound.
  17. 3 points
    Don Ridley

    Upgraded 2016 speakers

    As part of an ongoing stereo upgrade project, I finished the speaker upgrade. I have a 2016 XLT with 6 factory speakers ( 4 door, 2 tweeters). I installed 6.5 inch 2 way speakers in the rear doors and 6.5 inch component speakers up front. I think most 6.5 inch speakers will fit the TC and there seems to be plenty of depth for the speaker magnets. I used the factory wiring. It is too much hassle to rewire the entire van even though the sound quality may be better with larger gauge wires. The stock speakers have an integral mounting ring and electrical connector. I used these plastic mounting rings to mount the new speakers. 1.First check the polarity of the speaker connections using a 9v battery (see youtube). Mark the connector because both wires are black . 2. Cut the speaker cone out of the stock speaker. You were going to save this cappy speaker only to throw it away years later. 3. Cut and grind the plastic speaker supports away from the mounting ring . Check for sizing on the new speaker. The plastic is easy to manipulate. 4. Mount the ring to the new speaker with small scews. 5. Solder two short wires from the integral connector to the new speakers. Now you have a upgraded speaker that mounts and connects like OEM. The tweeters were more work. You will have to see how your tweeters fit in the OEM bracket that has 3 locking tabs around the circumference of the tweeter. I notched my tweeter mounting ring to match the mounting tabs. I added a dab of glue to keep things from rattling. Disconnect and secure the stock connector and wire. Splice speaker wire at the back of the head unit (see other posts for wire colors). You are connecting in parallel to the wires going to each front door speaker. Install the crossovers in the void below the head unit and run wires over to each tweeter. The sound with the new speakers is significantly better than stock. The stock head unit has enough power to deliver good sound. But I need more power and will install a digital signal processor (dsp), amp and sub in the near future. I am waiting for the 2017 audio products. I will probably pre-wire the van while I am waiting. The amp will require 4 sets of speaker wires to and from the head unit. The amp and sub will need separate power wiring. So there is plenty to do while I wait.
  18. 3 points
    Got the Laminate Planks in,,,the silver colored oak was a special order item,,,fawn looked good enough, plus it will match the beagles fur when they shed LOL. stuff is super easy to work with,,,I used my trusty knockout set to punch the access holes to the floor bolts. The Tie downs hold the entire floor securely in place, so no tape, glue or velcro needed! I hope this floor lasts a while,,,if not, it will come back out!
  19. 3 points
    I just got these tires today and some 16 inch steel wheels. BFG K02 215/65r 16 Tirerack.com has the wheels on close out for $40 right now. The front tires rub slightly at full lock when turning but it's no big deal to me. I trimmed a very small portion of the rear felt on the wells cause they rubbed on bumps. Like a very small 1 inch trim.
  20. 3 points
    As some have noted, there is no switch to turn on all the interior lights on newer TCs. This modification will allow you to turn them on with a separate switch. Opening a door turns on all the lights, so I added a switch that activates the same circuit. You can easily turn on the lights and the van thinks you have opened the driver's door. It works well and the only hitch is you get a "door ajar" message on the message center. This is not a complete step by step but it covers the tricky parts. The most difficult thing will be removing the door panel without breaking any tabs or pins. You should have a panel removal tool (or tools). There are dozens on Amazon for under $20. You may also want to buy some spare clips for the door panels. Several are tough to reach even with the tool and you may break one .https://www.amazon.com/Ford-Panel-Retainer-Sealer-W713297-S300/dp/B00CWLL84C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1489722168&sr=8-1&keywords=W713297-S300 Remove the plastic cover behind the door handle. It pulls straight out. Pry at the spot noted to avoid breaking any tabs. Remove the small panel behind the door latch Remove the door panel and unlatch the door handle Here is the wiring diagram. I used a pushbutton switch. This type of switch needs to be latching. You can use a rocker or toggle switch that has a normally closed terminal. The switch will be normally closed and open when the lights are turned on. The lights go off when the switch goes back to closed. I also used a lighted switch so I had to connect power for the light. The light is not necessary so only do it if you like the look. ***see diagram below*** Here is the power for the lighted switch. It is tied to the light for the door lock buttons. I used posi-lock connectors for this connection. The switch is wired to the door module. Pin 14 is cut and the switch is inserted. Here is the door module with the wire already cut. The wire had green paint on a black wire. Another view of the cut wiring I wired the switch using a modular pigtail that plugs in (for door panel removal in the future). These connections were soldered. The wire was dressed with Tesa cloth tape (I love this stuff). The Tesa tape prevents rattles and will not get gooey with age like some electrical tape. https://www.amazon.com/Tesa-Wire-Loom-Harness-Mercedes/dp/B00EH6IZ6Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1489723291&sr=8-1&keywords=tesa+tape The finished product. The switch light is always on just like the lights on the door switches. But I can't see it from the driver's seat (hence the uselessness of the light). You will get the alarm chime and message when you turn on the lights, but they work fine (just like opening a door while driving). Of course I insulated the door panel with theromozite and it gives the door a solid feel and dampens road noise. Insulating takes less than 1 hr per door and I highly recommend it. Use spay on adhesive to apply.
  21. 3 points
  22. 3 points
    CAGE B8

    MK2 TC (2014 up) COILOVERS completed !

    Well Ladies and Gents.... after getting tired of searching for info from over seas, and/or trying to order a GAZ coilover setup from the UK for my 2015 TrannyVan. After mucho research, parts cross referencing at Ford .... I've ALMOST nailed down the perfect setup... with slight modification of course. Still hunting for that TRUE bolt on rig that requires the LEAST amount of modification, which leads me to this: Was curious if you guys wanted a write up, considering I took TONS of pics and busted quite a few knuckles in the process. The picture upload format for this forum is...um...well... terrible to deal with, but if I get enough interest I'll definitely go through the trouble. Here's a few pics of the finished product attached below (with better shoot coming soon) - Hope you guys dig it EQUIPMENT: MEGAN RACING EZ STREET@ coild over setup 18x9 ROTIFORM VCE Monoblocks on 205/40's
  23. 3 points
    Scratch

    My new center console!

    I’m a visual guy. I’m the guy who asks for a picture menu at McDonalds. I like to see pics on threads too so I’m posting a bunch of pics on this thread. If you don’t like it, hit the back button, cuz I gotta story to tell… I hope you enjoy it. I install security systems during the day, and do metalwork on nights and weekends. I also moonlight as a level 3, super top secret, government spy when I get the time, but since I just said that last one, it’s obvious I’m not a very good one. Anyways, for my install job, I used to drive a full sized van. Now my company decided to get us all Transit Connects. My old van had a sweet center console that I could put file folders in, and had a flip down top that I could as a writing surface. The Connect is.... let's just say, lacking a little in the "room" department... Here’s my temporary solution to the problem. Classy right. It’s not like I’m the only one complaining about this either, there are 9 of us, and my bosses solution was to buy us each one of these: Awesome right. I decided to build one. I have the technology…. (6 million dollar man reference there guys…) I built this out of 14 G steel, probably shoulda went thinner as it’s kind of heavy and I’m concerned about the TC being able to hit 60 miles per hour now, but oh well. On the plus side, I can toss it out the window knowing it has enough mass to stop those pesky black SUV’s that chase me during my black OPS days… shhhhh…. The holes in the side are for ratchet straps to go under the seat. It'll go in the passenger seat since nobody in their right mind will ride with me. In the TC, there’s not a lot of room for things like my calculator and gas card either, so I put these babies on it. I’m not a caveman who stores his ball point pens in his butt cheeks, so I made some hi-tech storage containers for them. In this pic you can also see the “relief cuts” since I don’t have any way to make nice bends in 14G steel yet. I use those a lot on stuff like this. I like my writing surfaces, like I like my women... flat and close to me. So I incorporated a sweet sliding top for it, so I don’t have to reach over that darn shifter. Yeah, I know what you’re thinking “Two separate tops, and ball bearing sliding rails for it, all in 14 gauge steel… that top’s gotta be heavy!” You’re right. My pencil thin arms and weak muscles are no match for it, but I have a big fat head filled with what I assume is Ramen noodles, and brains, so I came up with this: HYDRAULIC ASSIST BABY! That large caevernous area on the right is where the file folders will now sit. I even put a little shelf inside to hold all my stuff like extra pens, business cards, brass knuckles, poison darts, and my lucky rabbits foot. Hey look at that, the pen holder is only held in place with magnets, in case he really doesn’t need any more pens! Someone was using his ramen noodles again….. I hope you enjoyed reading about this, as much as I enjoyed making it, now I'm going to go burn that old cardboard file box, in defiance.
  24. 3 points
    G B L

    Transmission fluid change

    Here is the post I did on the Transmission Change. The hardest part of this operation will be getting the TC Jacked up. Should be almost level . Remove the Under body dust shield . Look for the Drain Plug. 11 mm or 7/16 wrench. ] This style funnel will slide down into the Vent plug you just removed Put 3 quarts of fluid in [attacjpg] ] Run the TC for 5 to 10 minutes . Then drain the fluid again. Repeat this 2 more times You have Now used 9 quarts of fluid. Put the Drain plug back in make it snug this time. Add 3 quarts of fluid You have now used 12 quarts. Go under the car and Look for the indicator plug (14 mm wrench) Loosen the plug. Do not remove yet Start the engine with the engine running and the Car in park pull the plug and add fluid into the funnel until it just drips out the Indicator hole Replace plug put the Dust shield on , Pull the funnel and replace the vent cap. Total Fluid 13 Qts. With most of number 13 left There is no filter to change on this operation and the type of fluid is Mercon LV. Have fun!
  25. 3 points
    Fifty150

    Oil

    I suppose the current generation of vehicles have an oil change indicator. When the oil change light comes on, I'll change it then. Ford wants the consumer to use Motorcraft Synthetic Blend. Everyone seems to have an idea of Which brand of oil to use. Some people think that they know better than the manufacturer when it comes to which weight to Forums like Bob Is The Oil Guy are full of opinions from guys who will actually have their oil sent to a lab for analysis. Then you have all the guys who will cut their oil filters in half to determine which filters are best. I'm using 5W20 because it is the spec weight, and I already have it on subscription by the case from Amazon. 5W20 works in my pickup, as well as my Honda. Amazon had a decent price for Mag1 full synthetic oil in the 6 quart case. Wally World seems to have good prices on Mobil1 in the 5 qt jugs. Of course, you could always go with Red Line, Royal Purple, Amsoil, Lucas Oil. Pennzoil.........practically every full synthetic will be a decent oil in comparison to conventional oil. Even the Wal*Mart house brand of full synthetic, is still full synthetic oil. I suppose you could go with 0W20, since it is still 20 weight oil, with a 0 winter temperature rating, if you live in a cold weather climate. But don't get creative. No sense in mixing in a quart of 20W50 to thicken it up, or a little diesel oil for good luck. At the end of the day, you should probably pay a little more attention if you've got an EcoBoost or you're running LPG or Flex Fuel. It used to be that most guys agreed on K&N Filters. Now, Mobil1, Royal Purple, and even aFe are also in the game. If you like Amsoil, they have a filter also. I'm going to use Motorcraft since it is only a couple of dollars, as opposed to between $10 & $20. Hard to use a Wal*Mart filter or Fram, when Motorcraft is only $3.95. You do not have to stick with dealership service if you're still under warranty. Do your own oil change if you enjoy it and it makes you feel better. Get a set of those magnetic sockets. But a Gold Plug and a Filter Mag. Make sure that you have the right filter wrench.
  26. 3 points
  27. 3 points
    Ricky

    WTS: 2nd Row Rear Seats

    Don't know anything else besides that these are seats for a (drumroll), Transit Connect! Located in Houston. I can ship too through UPS ground. Price? No idea. Make an offer!
  28. 3 points
    Transit Connect Guide

    2017 Ordering Guide

    Here's the 2017 Ford Transit Connect Schedule: Order Banks Open: 04-11-16 Scheduling for Building Begins: 05-12-16 JOB1 Start of Production: 07-04-16
  29. 3 points
    windguy

    2016 TC Ordering Guide

    There doesn't appear to be too many changes for the 2016 model year so pretty much the same as 2014 and 2015. See the first page for "New for 2016 MY" I like this addition as a safety feature "Blind Spot Information System (BLIS®) with Cross-traffic Alert is now available for XLT Wagon and Titanium Wagon". Too bad it's not offered on the cargo version too. 2016 Transit Connect Order Guide.pdf
  30. 3 points
    DonShockley

    Remove rear seats from the wagon

    When I was researching my 2015 TC purchase I saw mention of removable seats in the online manual. After I ended up buying a LWB wagon, I was surprised when I saw no way to just pop out the seats. It turns out only the short wheel base 5 passenger version has the removable 2nd row seats. However, I decided to remove the seats in my wagon anyway to install the seat covers. Each seat is held in with four T50 bolts and only takes a few minutes to remove. The 3rd row seats have the bolts at each corner of the seat frame and you do need to slide the seat forward and back to access each set of two. The second row seats have pairs of bolts at the front end of each seat rail. These are easy to access with the seat unfolded. Once the bolts are removed it does take a little lifting and wiggling to break the seats loose because there are also locating posts on the bottom of the rails that fit into holes in the floor. But once these are popped out, the seats just lift out. With just myself, the wider part of the 2nd row was a bit heavy but the others were no problem. It is easier to lift out the 2nd row if you fold them flat after unbolting. In the end, I liked the extra space available with the seats out so decided to leave it that way since I rarely have more than one passenger. I've been slowly working on modifications over the last couple weeks making a flat load floor for the area and using the extra space for storage. I probably need to do a write up with photos to share the info.
  31. 3 points
    scottythe1nonly

    New Wheels

    couldn't get the Momo Revenge. So I got the WIN 2 instead.
  32. 3 points
    Back In Black

    grill2

    From the album Custom Tube Grill for 2014, 2015

    This is the new tube grill I made for my 2014. It is 1/2" Stainless steel tube hand formed and polished. It was a ton of work but makes the whole front end look so much better. Wouldn't mind making a few more to make some cash for new equipment for my shop.
  33. 3 points
    CapnTroy

    New 17" Wheels & Tires Are On...

    So, based on reviews that I read as well as advice from my local tire guy, I decided to get Nitto Motivo 225/50/17 tires to go with my new Volvo "Amalthea" rims... The Motivos have a 60,000 mile tread life warranty and have a slightly higher load rating at the same 50psi than the OEM 15" Continentals had, so I didn't have to get the TPMS's re-calibrated either. An added bonus; my speedo has been reading 2 mph too high since I bought the TC (based on data from 2 different GPS units). The first thing that I noticed yesterday after I installed the 17" tires and rims was that my speedo is now agreeing with the GPS's at all speeds. I like the ride with the new tires too; firm and stable.
  34. 3 points
    Hello carlb28. I checked the wiring diagram I posted on another topic. Not that you need confirmation, but the rear cabin lighting is on a independent circuit from the front cabin and yes, the taxi package has a switch from the drivers position to control the rear cabin lighting.
  35. 3 points
    2013TransitConnect

    The Gas Mileage Thread

    Yes I did get a good deal on one. That was the reason I got the 13 instead of the 14 but I also like the looks of the 13 better.
  36. 3 points
    zepper

    Volvo Wheels

    We all know volvo as Ford's safety conscious division but it turns out they have an extrodinary selection of wheels for their cars--most of which will fit the transit. The good things about using the OEM wheels are: they are generally high quality, made to stringent safety standards, available CHEAP from Volvo guys that are upgrading. I got mine for $400 SHIPPED with 3,000 mile old tires. The tires are high quality all season Michelins that are rated for the same load and PSI as the transits' OEM tires despite the lower profile. MUCH quieter too. These are 17" X 7" and the center bore was a perfect fit. Plenty of offset to clear the brakes. Watch fleabay and Swedespeed.com --marketplace--classifieds. The swedespeed forum even has an informative post with many pictures of OEM volvo wheels and their sizes/part numbers/names etc.
  37. 3 points
  38. 3 points
    MichaelNoble

    Winter Blue TC

    From the album Mike's TC

    Got my 2012 Winter Blue TC Wagon in July after 4 months of waiting. Not that I minded the wait. I got what I wanted
  39. 3 points
    As Azdamay said, it is usually possible to display various information in the instrument cluster. Here is how it is done on my 2010 Transit Connect. Press and hold the trip odometer reset button (the one on the left of the LCD readout) and turn the ignition switch to the start position. Release the reset button when the LCD readout says tESt (takes about 5 seconds). The first display is gAgE (it tests all the gauges). Then press the reset button 23 times to get to the average fuel economy (display will read rAFEand your mileage).Mine reads 28 which is what I get when I figure it out myself. There are 26 different displays,a few are, trouble codes(press 8 times), engine temp (press 19 times), battery voltage (press 21 times). To exit the display mode, just turn off the ignition. I have not found a way to keep any of the displays working when the Transit Connect is running.
  40. 2 points
    mrtn

    Winter Tire Thread

    Then again, it’s a really cheap add-on for the added safety and convinience.
  41. 2 points
    txb0115

    2014 nirVANa build

    Added a few more touches... Made organizing partitions in one box for stove, water, fuel. Then added two fold out tables to use for cooking eating... I don't really foresee actual sleeping in this thing very often as the wife is a travel agent and I can get crazy good hotel room prices, but there is enough room for me to lay down and sleep if needed, like on a late night drive to Jackson or Aspen from SLC. Then cooking wise I really only see myself doing it in the van in those rare instances or at lunch time at the ski resorts, other wise, I'll take the stove in the hotel room to cook with...
  42. 2 points
    dotmaster206

    2014+ TC Manual Conversion

    Got a sweet update today - the ST motor is in the van. It bolted right up with no complications. The clutch lines are hooked up as well, but that's all for now. Big milestone!
  43. 2 points
    Beta Don

    Oil Change

    No doubt if Fifty150 is involved, it's going to be a long thread!! Many of his replies are more than a foot tall on my computer screen and only a few of them fit on a page which would otherwise hold 15 or 20 replies! I've read several 'experts' who explain that when it comes to fully synthetic oils, the top 8 are all basically the same. I used to use Mobil One, but then Exxon bought them out and I'm proud to say that since the Exxon Valdez oil spill (and their effort to hire more lawyers to get out of cleaning up the mess they created than workers to actually do the cleaning) Exxon has not got one dime of my money for the last 25+ years - I would push my van down the street if I ran out of gas in front of an Exxon station. They put a lot of Alaskan fishermen completely out of business and then worked the courts so they didn't have to recompensate most of them anything. You've gotta look really hard to find a less eco friendly company anywhere in the world than Exxon . . . . and now their former CEO is about to become our Secretary of State. BP on the other hand, went about it all very differently with their major spill So, since there's no more Mobil One going in any of my vehicles, I'm using Castrol Edge Extended Performance for the TC which they say is good for 15,000 miles . . . . but Ford says 10,000 so that's what I'll be doing. I have always changed my own oil, but it's not my favorite pastime now at my advancing age so I had really, really been looking forward to just taking it to my Ford dealership and letting them do everything, but alas, both dealers within easy commuting distance of my home have already proved to me beyond any reasonable doubt that I cannot trust them to do the right thing, so my old ramps will be getting used for this vehicle too. With 10K or 1 year changes, it won't be all that often, so I think I can manage for a few more years. At least I'll know for sure what goes into my engine and that the work was done right You lucky guys who have a reasonably competent dealer nearby don't realize just how lucky actually you are! Don
  44. 2 points
    MarcusBrody

    TC Wagon camper

    Note the straps attached to the front seats. You can also kind of see the hinge mechanism in the middle: Full platform from the back with a bit of frame view: Fits pretty nicely. We'll have some of those interlocking foam squares on top eventually so we shouldn't feel the hinges, though they're pretty far to the side anyway.
  45. 2 points
    Please add your drain plug info to this. There is more to read about some of this topic @ " Oil '' however I can only speak to 2010-2013 TCs so I post here.... 2 liters use a M14 x 1.5 pitch engine oil drain plug. The factory stock plug is an iron non - magnetic needing a 13mm wrench for removal . The plug port faces the rear of van, not down. The alum pan has a slight recess @ drain port. The factory iron plug has a " face " dia of 28.5 mm & uses a rubber O-ring 23mm od with a 13mm id & is 2.6mm thick when new. I just did my first oil & filter change @ 1,369 miles as it was a quart low & I wanted the factory oil out. The oil capacity is listed as 4.5 qt. I read many reviews about magnetic drain plug brands & went with Mishimoto, having the best reviews. Their M14 x 1.5 magnetic needs a 24mm wrench for removal which some people do not like, but I prefer. It has a 24mm " face'' to the pan vs stock of 28.5 mm " face" to pan. ...This alum magnetic plug has a very tough built in O-ring & replaceable washer. Mishimoto part # MMOD-1415B or if you prefer, UPC 748354807608 @ both Amazon & eBay for about $ 16 .......Please add more choices... like the part numbers for the flip valve types that you have used on your TC ?
  46. 2 points
    mustang

    Alloy Rims

    Agreed , much better look than the OEM's. size ? look like 15's I'm going to go with a black 5 spoke with red stripe for my 2014 connect . just trying to decide on 16' or 17's these
  47. 2 points
    Mission 4- Operation Infinite Horizon. Aires Light bar installed with lighting attachment 5TABB (Special thanks to 103west43rd for this ) So many wires! Hella 700FF driving lights installed Hella 500FF fog lights installed More pictures coming soon! :bandance: I'll keep this forum updated on the progress of Operation: Adventure Transit.
  48. 2 points
    azdamay

    Them dang rear locking doors!

    I had forgotten you can do this, I will be doing it myself later today (I HATE the separately-unlocking rear doors). I attached the instructions. BTW am I the only one whose TC remotes seem to have a mind of their own? This thing locks and unlocks when it feels like it. I have to be standing really close, and often if I am standing at the rear of the van, it doesn't work at all, and I have to literally just put my arm around to the side of the van, and then it works!? Worst implementation of remote keyless entry I have ever used.
  49. 2 points
    Woody, Today, I again looked for a cabin air filter. On a hunch, I removed the passenger side cowling just below the windshield. Taking out 6 screws will allow the black plastic cowl to be removed. Voila! There in view is a filter-like device, but not a filter, I will call a non-filter. After trying to remove the non-filter and being unsuccessful, I took out 2 more screws holding a metal bracket just below the windshield. With that bracket removed, the non-filter can be readily removed. It is about the size of a cabin air filter but without the filter media. It is made out of plastic with large rectangular openings about 1/4" square. Adjacent to the right side of the non-filter is a screened opening to the driver side cowl volume. It is surrounded by a rubber gasket material and can be removed. The screen openings are also large, larger than in window screen material. On the driver side of the non-filter is another rubber gasketed device but this one is solid aluminum rather than screen material. It is meant to block air flow from that direction. Consequently, all the air entering the non-filter must come from the driver side cowl volume. This answers a few questions but begs a number of other questions. I checked with RockAuto, a filter supplier I have previously used to see if they have cabin air filters for the Transit Connect. They do list a cabin air filter for these vehicles. It would seem possible that a cabin air filter could be procured that would replace or be installed inside the non-filter. For some reason, Ford declined to install a filter in this area where a filter could be logically placed. I have taken several photos of this arrangement and will try to figure out how to upload them to make them available. Photo 00 shows the opening with the cowl removed. You can see the non-filter below the black bracket. Photo 01 shows the screen on the driver side of the non-filter. Photo 02 give another view of the screen and non-filter. Photo 03 shows all the parts removed including cowl, metal bracket, non-filter, gasketed screen, gasketed aluminum air blocker and fasteners. Photo 04 shows the opening with all parts removed. Photo 05 shows another view of the area with all parts removed. Curious! Bob
  50. 2 points
    Tugrik

    Audio options ?

    I haven't finalized on an amp yet, but I'm leaning heavily towards the Alpine PDX-5. That'll drive four speakers and a sub just fine without going too far into 'thump' territory, and it's tiny (and well thermal managed) enough to go under the passenger seat, safe and out of the way. The door panels couldn't be easier. It's cargo van! For the driver's and passenger's doors: Use a phillips screwdriver and undo the 9 screws on the sides and the bottom of the door. Very carefully pop off the long plastic 'cap' (the textured part) off the front of the pull handle using a putty knife or other thin-thin blade. Be gentle or you'll marr the plastic up a bit. Inside the now-open handle you'll find two Torx T-20 bolts; remove those. Inside the door-latch you'll see a tiny round circle with a screwdriver blade slot. Use a tiny flatblade to pop the circle out; it's a simple push-cap atop one last torx T-20 screw. Then slide the 'cup' off the door-latch to free it up. Now all you have to do is pull the bottom of the door outward and lift the whole thing up. Note: on the driver's side, if you have the power mirror option you'll have to reach up under and un-clip the cable plug connected to the power mirror controls once the door is free. For the rear cargo doors: use a putty knife under each of those huge back 'plugs'. They will pop right out; they're just plastic bosses. It will take some pretty serious elbow grease but they'll come out just fine. Then the two far-too-thin-to-be-useful MDF panels will be free and you can get inside the doors. Make new ones with a router or jigsaw out of 1/2" MDF (or thicker), put a little dynamat on the inside against the metal and mount 6x9 speakers. Route the cables through the flexi-hoses that connect the doors to the main body and then along the base rails up to your amp (or radio head unit). Backup camera: See those two knobs up high on the inside driver's-side rear door? They're wingnuts meant to be undone by hand. Undo those and that odd rectangular 'plug' comes right out of the back. Mount your camera to that plug (or *in* it if you want to be creative) and run the wiring down inside the door. Then remove the lower MDF panel as before and route the wire the same as you did for the rear speaker. The way this little plug is shaped I'm sure someone overseas has a ready-made backup camera that plugs right in there. I can't see any other real use for it! If you respond to this I may not be able to get back to you for a few days. Tomorrow morning I head out on a 2500mi cross-country trip in the TC. I'm taking Highway 50 (the Lonliest Highway) from California right across the nation to go visit some family. Back in a bit! --T
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