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1 pointWe picked it up last night! I'm honestly surprised by how good the fuel economy seems to be on the highway. My commute is about 30 miles and 90% highway. With the cruise set at 70mph the calculated instant fuel economy never dipped below 30mpg once I got up to speed. Obviously, it will drop once we start adding the weight of the camper conversion, but so far so good. I just need to train myself to drive an automatic again. I keep stomping on the floor!
1 pointI am agreeing with you. If you spend enough time operating at 5000 feet and above with a limited hp engine then the Turbo (which does not have a hp loss ) is the power plant to chose. If you are not at Altitude the extra cost is harder to justify
1 pointYou don't want metal shavings fixed in the oil filter. A magnetic oil drain plug works just fine. It gathers the junk in the very bottom of the oil pan and draining the oil will remove all loose metal particles. You can just wipe the plug clean and refit.
1 pointGearwrench makes a nice ratchet. Have been using a donut magnet on filters for over thirtyfive years. Just stick it on the bottom and cut the filter open to see if any issues. Father was a oil rep for a very old company and liked sythetics when they started going for longer intervals. Is the oil change monitor like on some Chevys in that it measures cold starts more than miles?
1 pointI suppose the current generation of vehicles have an oil change indicator. When the oil change light comes on, I'll change it then. Ford wants the consumer to use Motorcraft Synthetic Blend. Everyone seems to have an idea of Which brand of oil to use. Some people think that they know better than the manufacturer when it comes to which weight to Forums like Bob Is The Oil Guy are full of opinions from guys who will actually have their oil sent to a lab for analysis. Then you have all the guys who will cut their oil filters in half to determine which filters are best. I'm using 5W20 because it is the spec weight, and I already have it on subscription by the case from Amazon. 5W20 works in my pickup, as well as my Honda. Amazon had a decent price for Mag1 full synthetic oil in the 6 quart case. Wally World seems to have good prices on Mobil1 in the 5 qt jugs. Of course, you could always go with Red Line, Royal Purple, Amsoil, Lucas Oil. Pennzoil.........practically every full synthetic will be a decent oil in comparison to conventional oil. Even the Wal*Mart house brand of full synthetic, is still full synthetic oil. I suppose you could go with 0W20, since it is still 20 weight oil, with a 0 winter temperature rating, if you live in a cold weather climate. But don't get creative. No sense in mixing in a quart of 20W50 to thicken it up, or a little diesel oil for good luck. At the end of the day, you should probably pay a little more attention if you've got an EcoBoost or you're running LPG or Flex Fuel. It used to be that most guys agreed on K&N Filters. Now, Mobil1, Royal Purple, and even aFe are also in the game. If you like Amsoil, they have a filter also. I'm going to use Motorcraft since it is only a couple of dollars, as opposed to between $10 & $20. Hard to use a Wal*Mart filter or Fram, when Motorcraft is only $3.95. You do not have to stick with dealership service if you're still under warranty. Do your own oil change if you enjoy it and it makes you feel better. Get a set of those magnetic sockets. But a Gold Plug and a Filter Mag. Make sure that you have the right filter wrench.
1 pointok homebrewermike.What side license plate light did you remove? The power (hot +12 volts) goes to the left license plate light then to the right license plate light. The left side light has two wires on its hot side. If you removed the left side light and socket, you may have broken the connection to the right side license plate light. For issue #2, the connector for the shifter does not have a isolated reverse circuit. All the wiring goes into electronic modules. The power for the reverse lights comes from the reverse relay in the battery junction box above and behind the battery, and goes through the firewall and down the left side of the Transit Connect. If you are up to it, the wire goes into a 20 pin connector behind the kick panel under the dash, to the left of the fuse panel, on the inside of the left fender. If you get this far and remove the panel, you will notice there are two 20 pin connectors. Only one of them has a Green wire with a Yellow stripe. It is in the #7 position of the connector. That is the power to the reverse lights. Good luck!