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  1. Just got this information from the Service Manager where I purchased my 2017 TC XL Cargo Van: --------------------------------- SSM 46321 - 2014-2017 Transit Connect - Battery Drain Due to Frequent Door Openings and Approach Light Strategy Some 2014-2017 Transit Connect vehicles may exhibit a condition that causes the battery to discharge. If normal battery drain diagnosis leads to no issues, it may be caused by the approach lights illuminating every time the body control module (BCM) receives a lock/unlock signal or opening any door. If the door remains open, the lights will remain illuminated for up to 10 minutes. If the vehicle was built on or before 11-Dec-2016, reprogram the BCM to the latest calibration using IDS release 103.05 and higher. Calibration files may also be obtained at www.motorcraft.com. For all vehicles, access the BCM Configuration Parameters. Select Module Programming, Programmable Parameters, Personality, Approach Light. Choose Disabled and follow the screen prompts to completion. Use causal part 14A068 and applicable labor operations in section 10 of the SLTS manual. APPLICABLE VEHICLES 2014 - 2017 CAR: HC V408 (EU) --------------------------------- The fix was done at no cost, under my warranty. Hope this helps!
    9 points
  2. Let's see if this works. First post after introducing myself. I decided to create a little more room in my 2017 T.C. The front 1/3 of the cargo floor is a false floor !!! I hope this helps someone else.
    5 points
  3. Adding an audio amplifier, power inverter or other high current loads requires connecting heavy gauge cable directly to the battery. The Gen 2 TC’s battery is tucked under the front cowling and is enclosed in a covered box so making this connection difficult. Plus, having a big cable bolted to the battery with a big in-line fuse looks amateurish. There is a professional, safe and easy alternative. The front wall of the battery box holds the high current battery junction box (BJB). This is where all the power is distributed to other fuse blocks and modules in the TC. Remove the air filter housing. The BJB is attached to the front panel of the battery box. This panel lifts up and out to access the battery. Disconnect the (+) terminal and carefully pry open the BJB cover (5 tabs). You will have to cut some cable ties holding the cable on the front of the BJB. Here is the front of the BJB (air filter housing has been removed) This is the inside of the BJB. I have already added a cable on the bottom post of the unused slot on the right. The BJB has 10 circuits from 40A to 150A. The last slot on the right is used for glow plug power (60 amp) for a diesel motor. This slot will be available in all TCs in the United States. Connect your new power cable to the bottom terminal of this or any other open slot. Install the proper size MIDI style Littlefuse brand fuse. Attach with 5mm nylon locking insert nuts. I used #4 AWG cable and this fit with some trimming of the plastic housing. The #4 lug had to be shaved to fit the narrow slot. #4 AWG was overkill in my application. Remove the battery and battery box. Run the cable into the cab using the plastic square knock-out located on the firewall on the left (driver’s) side behind a perforated cutout in the padding/insulation. You can see the knock out under the master cylinder. I routed the cable under the center console. The console is easy to access by removing 4 screws. You do not need to remove any dash panels if you use an electrical fish tape or other stiff wire to pull the new cable under the short section of carpet and padding between the dash and console. The fish tape will poke out under the carpet near the accelerator pedal. Route the cable to your load. Plastic knock-out on the driver side firewall Important notes: Use the proper size and type of cable. I bought power cable designed for automotive audio amps. This is much different from cable used in homes and buildings (THHN for example). Automotive cable has many more strands of wire and is much more flexible…and expensive. Many of the cheaper offerings will be copper clad aluminum and the gauge may not be true. Use pure copper if you can afford it. My cable was sold by Kicker. What size cable? Note that the OEM cables in the BJB are #8 or #10 AWG but they are fused at 50 to 80A. This amperage does not comply with the NEC and does not need to. Do a Google search and you will find that you can safely use # 8 cable for automotive, 12 volt loads of 70 or 80A depending on the length of the run. The #4 AWG cable I used can handle well over 150A. If you are going to run large loads continuously, like power tools or large air compressors, you need to use an external generator. The TC is not a power plant and you should only connect large loads that are on intermittently, like a coffee maker or espresso machine. The standard alternator outputs 88 amps at 1800 rpm (150 amp max), so running the engine may not be enough power for large loads.
    5 points
  4. mrtn

    Isn't this the cutest van

    https://www.topgear.com/car-news/electric/royal-mails-new-electric-delivery-van-just-cutest
    5 points
  5. I did this about 2 years ago and it has been working well. <iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube-nocookie.com/embed/-21ydY_MM6A" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe> not sure if I was able to embed this video correctly but here is a direct link to the video also https://youtu.be/-21ydY_MM6A
    5 points
  6. I previously did an update at 100k and 150k and I'm happy to say the van is still humming along great. I still change the oil every 5k miles and get the transmission service every year. Just put on my 4th set of tires but otherwise its been very inexpensive to own. The front is definitely getting pretty ate up with rock chips which is to be expected with this many miles and the fact I drive 95% of the time on the highway. Lifetime average MPG is 23.8 but its been improving as I finally learned to just slow down haha! I'm pretty regularly 25-27 with some 28's sprinkled in there. Where I buy the fuel seems to make a big difference too. I had planned on keeping it to 200 and then doing something else but I'll try to get another year or two out of it unless things start going downhill quickly. I'm still on the original brakes and the interior is holding up nicely. Most people are very surprised how many miles are on it when they see it but I keep it really clean so it always looks good. It still drives very tight and the suspension isn't showing signs of needing replaced either. Windshields seem to be a consumable item on these and I'm due for another one unfortunately. Anyways, just wanted to give an up date and post up if you guys have any questions.
    5 points
  7. Well it took a while but pretty much finished. Has Fridge, shore power, sink, water tank and pump, 12 speed fan, sliding screen windows, house battery , custom pull out bed. ( Bed pulls out to 5’ 7” I’m 5”5) You can can access the fridge and battery from the passenger sliding door. Taken in it out and it is awesome !! So happy.
    5 points
  8. Hey folks, I got my complete guide to turning off approach lights written. It covers all the steps I followed to turn off the approach lights on my 2018 TC Wagon. I tried to be extremely comprehensive with the instructions so I hope it's useful for others. Feedback or more details appreciated.
    5 points
  9. I went to my local dealer today with the intent of making sure they can perform this SSM under my 3yr/36k bumper-to-bumper warranty and to give them a heads up if they want prepare with any downloads they need to perform to minimize the amount of time they will need my van in service. I gave the service advisor the attached doc below, he read it, and said they will do this under warranty if I'm having a battery issue. He gave me back the piece of paper, said this type of service is done by their 'electrical tech' and they will need the van for a few days, so make an appointment when I'm ready. Two days? Attitude aside, I'm glad they are willing to make this fix under warranty, I hope. Chapter two to follow. Stand by. SSM 46321 Dark mode.pdf
    5 points
  10. I complained about the entry illumination to my dealer, and expressed my concern that it would drain the battery on my 2017 TC XL Cargo Van, since it is being converted to a weekend camper. The service tech hooked up their Integrated Diagnostic System computer to the vehicle's On-board Diagnostic port and scrolled through the Body Control Module menus, but couldn't find any way to shorten or turn off the unwelcome 10-minute "Welcome Lighting." So, I spoke with the dealership's service director, who went online and looked through Ford's technical bulletins for customer complaints about battery drain caused by the long open-door lighting delay. Sure enough, Ford had come out with a firmware update for the TC's Body Control Module. Once my vehicle's module had been updated with the new firmware, the tech was able to access the menu to turn off the lighting. The software update and programming change was covered under my warranty. Now that I am finally in "Dark Mode" I am a happy camper. Moral of the story: Keep complaining until you get results. Let us know how you fare with your dealer.
    5 points
  11. Here is the post I did on the Transmission Change. The hardest part of this operation will be getting the TC Jacked up. Should be almost level . Remove the Under body dust shield . Look for the Drain Plug. 11 mm or 7/16 wrench. ] This style funnel will slide down into the Vent plug you just removed Put 3 quarts of fluid in [attacjpg] ] Run the TC for 5 to 10 minutes . Then drain the fluid again. Repeat this 2 more times You have Now used 9 quarts of fluid. Put the Drain plug back in make it snug this time. Add 3 quarts of fluid You have now used 12 quarts. Go under the car and Look for the indicator plug (14 mm wrench) Loosen the plug. Do not remove yet Start the engine with the engine running and the Car in park pull the plug and add fluid into the funnel until it just drips out the Indicator hole Replace plug put the Dust shield on , Pull the funnel and replace the vent cap. Total Fluid 13 Qts. With most of number 13 left There is no filter to change on this operation and the type of fluid is Mercon LV. Have fun!
    5 points
  12. Phase 4: Windows, Insulation, and Vent Fan: The day I cut huge holes in my brand new car. So, this album brings you up to date on where I'm at as of last night. I spend almost the entire weekend installing 3 windows, a Fantastic Fan, and insulating body panels. We've got a trip coming up in October, so the goal was to make it a little more "livable" for the trip. Without windows in the back of the van, it got pretty stuffy in there with two of us. The windows and vent are from Vintage Technologies that sells parts for teardrop trailers. Cutting into the van was a little scary, but once everything was all put back together it was well worth the trouble. The windows make a huge difference! Since I had to make panels to help mount the windows, we also started insulating the ceiling and panels. It's one layer of self-adhesive duct insulation which a lot of people use as a cheaper alternative to Dynamat, and then a layer of Reflectix where space allowed. The next step is to start doing finish work and making things look neat. Phase 4 Photos The point of no return. The lines look a little sketchy in this shot, it took a couple tries with one of the corner to perfectly match the template. Holes Cut! The blue tape made marking the cuts much easier and kept the paint from getting scratched. Windows In Interior window shot. The windows open and have screens in them. Hole cut for side window. I didn't realize until I started cutting that the panels on the side are plastic rather than metal. Window #3 in! The angle of the body panels give a weird optical illusion in this shot. The window is flat against the van. I swear! Battens glued to the ceiling Frost King duct insulation on the ceiling Step 1: Self-adhesive duct insulation Step 2: A layer of Reflectix, glued in place Step 3: Wooden Panel Ceiling vent framed in. The Reflectix is glued in, the tape is just there to keep it in place as the glue dried. Ceiling vent installed with bead-board Hard at work installing Reflectix Bonus "Work Shop" Shot. This is where I've done all of the work so Far. Also, Jake the Dog. Put back together! Ceiling vent. Not crazy protrusive!
    5 points
  13. I have successfully converted my 2015 to a manual. I've been using it for work the past month and have put around 2k miles on it with no issues. If anyone is looking to start this project for themselves I'd be happy to answer any questions and share my experiences with it. I'm in the Tampa Bay area
    4 points
  14. Slamsit

    2010 XLT Slammed

    Long time lurker. First time poster. Just a teaser shot here, but it’s very custom. The build is starting to come along, and have paint in the lineup beginning of August. A ton of work already went into it. I’ll try and grab some additional pictures tomorrow. Will look good with a satin while pearl paint. Pic for attention:
    4 points
  15. just got my connect this last saturday, i am excited for it have a lot of good ideas for a tiny camper
    4 points
  16. Regarding FORD Safety Recall 18S20 – Shift Cable Bushing Replacement affecting 2013-2014 Ford Escape, & 2013-2016 Ford Fusion, this failure mode also appears on certain models of the Ford Transit Connect. In my case, I have a 2015 XLT that experienced this failure. The original factory-original bushing is white. The replacement bushing outlined in the recall below is orange. This is a standard Ford part used on "small" chassis Ford vehicles and is common amongst vehicles using this type of transmission shift linkage. The Ford part number for the REPLACEMENT bushing is: DG9Z-7K340-A and can be found at most ANY ford dealership. I paid $5.10USD for it, and ended-up buying two just to have the 2nd one around in case this is actually a recurring problem (or in case I dropped the first one down in the engine bay accidentally during installation!). BACKGROUND: Please note that when I searched for a recall SPECIFICALLY covering this particular failure mode on the Ford Transit Connect I could not find any references to one anywhere. However, a very smart parts guy at my local Ford dealership in Lake Orion, Michigan knew of the problem on the Focus and Escape and had a small box right on his counter full of these replacement bushings. This told me that it's a failure common problem (despite not being specifically referenced to the Transit connect). I suspect that the original plastic bushing was molded from a material not capable of withstanding the constant pressures of the daily shifting cycle. As such, it would seem that if Ford went to all the trouble if initiating a recall action on a number of vehicles with this problem, they wouldn't simply have released the exact same "replacement" bushing, but would have molded it from a more durable material in order to prevent a recurrence. This has been my experience with OEM safety recalls as an auto industry engineer since the OEM is legally responsible for demonstrating to NHTSA that their planned repair solution resolves the safety concern prior to deploying that solution into the field. As such, it is unlikely that NHTSA would have approved an OEM-proposed solution that utilized a bushing the same as the one that originally failed from the factory (common sense?). Incidentally, when replacement parts are produced in a different color, that is usually an indication that they are a different material so that technicians don't erroneously install the wrong replacement part when effecting the repair. Visual cues are important in repair circumstances and used broadly in the auto industry so that quick visual reference can be made when assessing the completion of a safety repair. Here is a link to some of the detail of the recall. REPLACEMENT/INSTALLATION: I knew as soon as I saw the replacement bushing that it was an exact replacement, and as you can see from the photos below it is. To complete the repair, I first snapped the replacement bushing onto the transmission shift lever, then pressed the shift cable onto it. As luck would have it, that was the opposite of the replacement instructions I later found online for the Focus and Escape. regardless, it snapped right in and securely retained the shift cable once installed. The repair took me about 5 minutes and was a bit of a tight squeeze when attempting to get my hands past other 'obstacles' in that area of the engine bay. it was a little challenging holding onto and orienting the replacement bushing when attempting to push my hands past the intake snorkel and fuse box! But, again, it only took 5 minutes total to complete the repair. I hope you find this information helpful. Ken Here are a few photos of the actual linkage and bushing:
    4 points
  17. 3/4" plywood free span between angle iron mounted to side walls. When I got the plywood fresh and moist from Lowes, I cut the main piece the long way spanning and then set it in place with the better side down. I put on weights so it would dry deflected down. After dried, primed and painted I put it in with good side up now with a 1/4" crown. The brace for the foot board was made with bracing removed from the area under the floor. Head of the bed folded down for ease of loading groceries, etc. Full space for bins under bed. Foot of bed folds back to allow mid area fully open to carry dogs.
    4 points
  18. I was always afraid to make a mistake so I didn't want to use glue. I also didn't want to make new holes in the van. It took forever to make sure I only use the existing holes for rivnuts and still have the cedar planking ceiling I've been dreaming of. https://youtu.be/FeSpucwYLW0
    4 points
  19. I then slapped the mat back down and cut out the rubber around the hatch cutout. Dropped in the hatch, popped in the step trim, and screwed down my cargo tie downs. Finished product, thanks for looking at my creation, feel free to ask about anything I might have left out!
    4 points
  20. The file to too large (26MB) to post in the forum. Here is a link to my copy of the file (hopefully it works): https://1drv.ms/b/s!AqEP8g__L8wNoFd8hTTdIiE9pBok?e=KSXXV3
    4 points
  21. As some have noted, there is no switch to turn on all the interior lights on newer TCs. This modification will allow you to turn them on with a separate switch. Opening a door turns on all the lights, so I added a switch that activates the same circuit. You can easily turn on the lights and the van thinks you have opened the driver's door. It works well and the only hitch is you get a "door ajar" message on the message center. This is not a complete step by step but it covers the tricky parts. The most difficult thing will be removing the door panel without breaking any tabs or pins. You should have a panel removal tool (or tools). There are dozens on Amazon for under $20. You may also want to buy some spare clips for the door panels. Several are tough to reach even with the tool and you may break one .https://www.amazon.com/Ford-Panel-Retainer-Sealer-W713297-S300/dp/B00CWLL84C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1489722168&sr=8-1&keywords=W713297-S300 Remove the plastic cover behind the door handle. It pulls straight out. Pry at the spot noted to avoid breaking any tabs. Remove the small panel behind the door latch Remove the door panel and unlatch the door handle Here is the wiring diagram. I used a pushbutton switch. This type of switch needs to be latching. You can use a rocker or toggle switch that has a normally closed terminal. The switch will be normally closed and open when the lights are turned on. The lights go off when the switch goes back to closed. I also used a lighted switch so I had to connect power for the light. The light is not necessary so only do it if you like the look. ***see diagram below*** Here is the power for the lighted switch. It is tied to the light for the door lock buttons. I used posi-lock connectors for this connection. The switch is wired to the door module. Pin 14 is cut and the switch is inserted. Here is the door module with the wire already cut. The wire had green paint on a black wire. Another view of the cut wiring I wired the switch using a modular pigtail that plugs in (for door panel removal in the future). These connections were soldered. The wire was dressed with Tesa cloth tape (I love this stuff). The Tesa tape prevents rattles and will not get gooey with age like some electrical tape. https://www.amazon.com/Tesa-Wire-Loom-Harness-Mercedes/dp/B00EH6IZ6Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1489723291&sr=8-1&keywords=tesa+tape The finished product. The switch light is always on just like the lights on the door switches. But I can't see it from the driver's seat (hence the uselessness of the light). You will get the alarm chime and message when you turn on the lights, but they work fine (just like opening a door while driving). Of course I insulated the door panel with theromozite and it gives the door a solid feel and dampens road noise. Insulating takes less than 1 hr per door and I highly recommend it. Use spay on adhesive to apply.
    4 points
  22. Banjeed

    Simple bed

    Still working out storage and a few other things on my weekend warrior build, but wanted to report that a cheap tri-fold queen sized mattress with a california king duvet cover around it work great. I wanted the duvet cover to be oversized so I can still fold the mattress up and put up the 2nd row seats when needed. The back two panels of the mattress needed to be trimmed, which I found a box saw made quick work of. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KWDBZZQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GH2Y1V4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    4 points
  23. One last photo of the van build in action ?
    4 points
  24. I do have 2.3.34 test version. Function is located under IPC module, below is the download link. http://forscan.org/download/FORScanSetup2.3.34.test20200521.exe Important notes: 1. Please note this function can increase mileage, not decrease it. So if you enter wrong number that is bigger than have to be, you will not be able to return it back. So please be very careful. 2. Before run the change, please make sure FORScan show correct *current* mileage (it shows it when asks to enter new mileage).
    4 points
  25. drwatt

    New Member

    @Fifty 150 Let's see. If you are sitting in your vehicle with the air on, the multi-speaker stereo blasting, driving an automatic, on cruise control,with the LCDs playing a movie etc., are you really driving? Or just another guy taking refuge from the wife. Sorry but I am 74 years old and can no longer do tent camping. What is the more likely scenario is I'm sitting around a campfire in a forested area watching the moon and the stars while enjoying a cold brew after I grilled a great steak over the campfire. Then when I can't stay awake anymore from all the fresh air, I crawl into my bed and watch the 10 PM news and fall asleep only to be wakened 6 hours later by the chirping birds. Can anyone else vision that?
    4 points
  26. How often any vehicle needs new brakes is 90% a function of the way it's being driven - Most people maintain their desired speed right up to a stop or corner and then use lots of brake to get slowed or stopped. Others take their foot off the gas 100 yards sooner and gradually slow and need to use much less brake. Braking hard while going uphill is a real waste of energy, but I follow people who do it every day - They never seem to figure that just letting off the gas sooner, the laws of physics will slow them down for free. Many times I catch up to them about the time the light turns green and I never had to touch my brakes at all Friction braking is the act of turning the kinetic energy you paid for getting up to speed into heat . . . . and poor gas mileage . . . . and frequent brake jobs. There are more efficient ways to slow down Don
    4 points
  27. Surfing ? People at our age don't surf , very grateful that i can still walk .
    4 points
  28. According to Herb's rules, I need bail money...
    4 points
  29. Hi Folks, just joined the forum, heres my 2007 camper conversion. Looking at lifting the front and putting on some AT tires, 18" rims are from the previous owner and look nice, but not much use off road here in Sweden.
    4 points
  30. phollenback

    ForScan

    Hi folks, I've been playing with Forscan on my 2018 TC (specifically to disable approach lights). I wrote up a complete tutorial on my website. I'm just learning Forscan so I'm sure I have some small details wrong, but hopefully that will help others.
    4 points
  31. As part of an ongoing stereo upgrade project, I finished the speaker upgrade. I have a 2016 XLT with 6 factory speakers ( 4 door, 2 tweeters). I installed 6.5 inch 2 way speakers in the rear doors and 6.5 inch component speakers up front. I think most 6.5 inch speakers will fit the TC and there seems to be plenty of depth for the speaker magnets. I used the factory wiring. It is too much hassle to rewire the entire van even though the sound quality may be better with larger gauge wires. The stock speakers have an integral mounting ring and electrical connector. I used these plastic mounting rings to mount the new speakers. 1.First check the polarity of the speaker connections using a 9v battery (see youtube). Mark the connector because both wires are black . 2. Cut the speaker cone out of the stock speaker. You were going to save this cappy speaker only to throw it away years later. 3. Cut and grind the plastic speaker supports away from the mounting ring . Check for sizing on the new speaker. The plastic is easy to manipulate. 4. Mount the ring to the new speaker with small scews. 5. Solder two short wires from the integral connector to the new speakers. Now you have a upgraded speaker that mounts and connects like OEM. The tweeters were more work. You will have to see how your tweeters fit in the OEM bracket that has 3 locking tabs around the circumference of the tweeter. I notched my tweeter mounting ring to match the mounting tabs. I added a dab of glue to keep things from rattling. Disconnect and secure the stock connector and wire. Splice speaker wire at the back of the head unit (see other posts for wire colors). You are connecting in parallel to the wires going to each front door speaker. Install the crossovers in the void below the head unit and run wires over to each tweeter. The sound with the new speakers is significantly better than stock. The stock head unit has enough power to deliver good sound. But I need more power and will install a digital signal processor (dsp), amp and sub in the near future. I am waiting for the 2017 audio products. I will probably pre-wire the van while I am waiting. The amp will require 4 sets of speaker wires to and from the head unit. The amp and sub will need separate power wiring. So there is plenty to do while I wait.
    4 points
  32. I had the same issue with Thule square bars on my Subaru. The bars made all sorts of whistling racket when they were empty above 50 mph. I used a small 1/4" rope wrapped spirally around the bars about 3" apart for a test and that eliminated the noise. Then switched to 1/8" shock cord I ordered from Amazon with bowline knot loops at each end and they always stay taut. Whisper quiet!
    4 points
  33. Some of it are already well known bloopers, updated: https://www.sadanduseless.com/2018/01/car-ad-failures/ (this here is Finnish, clearly meant to be "REKKAPESU" (truck wash).
    4 points
  34. I always wanted a "Hippie" van, so after I retired, I bought a Transit Connect and went wild. 1,148 RGB LEDs, two color organs to drive them, a 400 watt amp built into the upper cargo bin, an extra 550 amp battery on the passenger side, half inch foam on the cargo area floor, and 50 square feet of denim insulation stuffed everywhere I could put it. She rides a lot quieter now.
    4 points
  35. Fifty150

    Winter Tire Thread

    They don't make earthquake tire.
    4 points
  36. I just got these tires today and some 16 inch steel wheels. BFG K02 215/65r 16 Tirerack.com has the wheels on close out for $40 right now. The front tires rub slightly at full lock when turning but it's no big deal to me. I trimmed a very small portion of the rear felt on the wells cause they rubbed on bumps. Like a very small 1 inch trim.
    4 points
  37. MarcusBrody

    TC Wagon camper

    Middle seats back up and front platform packed. We'll use the space inside the flatform (it's framed with 1x4s, so there's a bit of space in there). The platform is rigid, so I'm contemplating adding a set of longer folding legs and letting it double as a pull out table. The folded platform section can be stowed on top of either the front or back half of the rear plaform, so you can access either of the folding sections. One last shot to show that having the plaform in the van has no affect on the functionality of the center row of seats.
    4 points
  38. Gtrgrl

    2020 FL Blue Transit

    Haven't made any permanent changes in my transit yet. Hubby removed 2 passenger side seats, I'm folding down the 2 on the driver's side and have put up some accessories/ curtains. Bought a small porta potty and a small table top size fridge that has a 12V and a 110 plug. Still have plans to put an inverter to have on board electricity but wanted to stay overnight as a test. Fortunately was cool, so didn't need a/c. Fun success! Hubby has a promaster, so I'm fortunate to have his knowledge to help me. ☺️
    3 points
  39. Attached is what I came up with.
    3 points
  40. mrtn

    Window Tint

    You're really bad at foruming. Or everything really.
    3 points
  41. Now that's the kind of answer I'm looking for! Thanks for that! It does appear to be the same part, and since I was going to buy a new pan to have welded anyway, I might as well just buy one that comes with the plug already installed. Many thanks!
    3 points
  42. Nokay

    New FTC/Van owner

    With this post and the one I posted in brakes/suspension not getting responses I will just post updates to my build here. Feel free to move mods. Raised the front seats with 2” delrin spacers that my friend helped make since he’s significantly better at machining than I am and I’ve been crazy busy, sub under drivers seat, added the 2nd row single seat, A/T tires (215/65/16 Falken - Wildpeaks) and rebuilt the false floor with an access hatch (same friend helped chop the legs and make the adjustable feet). I wanted to reclaim the space under the false floor and it needed to be strong enough to put motos in. We used the stock L bracket that the original floor was bolted to and dropped it down so that the new floor is flush to the rear and also bolts into said L bracket. Using pocket screws I attached a front piece so things don’t go in or out the front of the floor area. I didn’t put it under as there is more than enough support using the extrusion and it gave me a little more space. I figured out the stock rear strut length and am in the process of building some shocks. Hoping I can pull the stock strut soon to dyno match the compression curve so I can install it once and have a great tune. Going with an air shock to be able to pump it up when hauling a moto and/or other gear for trips and take air our when not hauling heavier loads. I also ordered the TEMA 30mm spacer kit. I did a few other small things but I’ll stop boring myself. Here’s some pics.
    3 points
  43. Anything? Ho ho ho! Another option might be a simple DIY job with PlastiDip. Hit YouTube for some outstanding examples of work done using that. It'll stay where you put it, but once you're done, peel it right off.
    3 points
  44. Hello Folks, I've been building out my 2015 van into a micro camper for the past few months. I've been sharing the story on reddit, but I figured I should post here as well especially since I used resources I found on this site to influence my build. I have a ton of photos I've posted and taken. I'll start adding them here. So far, I've posted 4 different "phases of the project. So I'll make one post per phase to share what I've done so far. Phase 1: Here is the start of the conversion of our Transit Connect into a weekend getaway camper. It's a 2015 model with the long wheel base, which adds around 1 foot of extra cargo length. The boxes are built with baltic birch. Using this wood helps keep the weight down by not having to add much extra support beyond the plywood itself. I "designed" the layout in Google Sketchup (it was the first time I had ever used a 3d modeling software) and then built templates out of cardboard. After that, I started building the boxes. Link to the album. 2015 Transit Connect - Long Wheel Base Cargo Area - Roughly 7'x4' Making Sure We'll Have Enough Head Room on the "Couch" Sketch-Up Drawing of the layout The Blue Box is the Water Container and The Red is Our Stove The "Kitchen" will be a drawer that slides 36" out from the side door. Cardboard Models Starting to Build the Boxes Interior of Box 1 Box 1 in the Van - 60in Long Box 2 The open end is where the drawer will slide out from. I'm going to add more supports on that side once the drawer is installed. Boxes in the Van The bed folds across from the couch. I still need to design the rear supports Front View of the Bed Bed panel folded onto the couch.
    3 points
  45. So, to continue a reply to an earlier thread, and to fulfill a request to share lessons learned/knowledge gained, here's how it worked when I installed a Pioneer NEX-4200 (a carplay/android auto compatible receiver) in my 2016 TC XLT with the 4.3" screen (non-nav/non-touch) sync system. In a word, it was close to perfect. Here's what I needed: 1) The Pioneer NEX-4200 2) iDatalink's Maestro steering wheel control box, plus... 3) Their FO2 (Ford harness) and 4) Their SAT-1 Satellite radio antenna adapter. 5) A Metra Metra 99-5831G Double DIN dashboard adapter. 6) A Sirius Satellite Radio adapter 7) A Metra antenna adapter Model 40-EU10 8) A USB port that replaces the TC's 12v power port. 9) A microphone. My total cost for all this was about $250 (plus the cost of the Pioneer head unit, about $500 with rebate). That's pricier than most solutions—but I think it was worth it for reasons I'll explain below. I worked with my friend John, who owns Angel's Electronics—a car stereo installer south of downtown Los Angeles. John has done all my installs, and he's very cool about allowing customers to participate. How it was done: 1) Prior to install, I downloaded iDataLink's very clear PDF-based instruction sheet. 2) Also prior to install, you need to flash your Maestro module to set it up for your particular car model. The flashing process allows you to customize steering wheel controls and other features. The module won't work unless it is flashed; to flash you need to register with iDatalink, download their (annoyingly Windows-only) software utility, plug the device into your computer with the included USB cable. The thread I linked below—from iDataLink's tech support—states that this only works with Windows. This is true and not true. If you have a Mac, you can make it work using the Parallels emulation software—but not with a Windows 10 installation (or even using an earlier version of Internet Explorer in that installation; you mayu have better luck than me.) Instead, you'll need to create a new virtual machine using Parallels. The GREAT news is that you don't have to buy Windows to do this. You simply use the Parallels Virtual Machine Creation Wizard to install a free Windows development environment, choosing "Modern IE test environments" from the "Free Systems" menu; from there, you'll be given the option of a number of test builds—I chose IE 11 on Windows 7, since that's the one that folks seem to have the best luck with. Once it is installed, you simply plug the iDatalinlk into your Mac's USB port; then (patiently) wait for the running Windows system to recognize it and install drivers. After that, you can download the Maestro flashing utility (you'll need to be registered for this, and registration approval can take a few hours, so be prepared for a wait if you haven't already registered.) The flashing interface and process is very quick, visual, and self-explanatory. 3) Once you've flashed and assembled the harnesses to your new radio, you have to remove the old one. You pop the top cover off, then the Ford dashboard adapter, exposing the radio itself. The radio pops out with a few screws; you'll need to carefully fish around for the connectors to both the radio and the screen above. Follow the instructions on iDatalink's downloadable PDF documentation. Everything is very self-explanatory and I didn't have to do any major cutting or rewiring. The fundamental principle at work here is that you're doing to be disabling—that means completely disconnecting—the Ford 4.3" screen; the iDatalink will move all of Sync's functions (yes, that includes backup camera and backup sensors) to the compatible head unit (the Pioneer worked) of your choice. That leaves you with a blank screen above the new head unit. I've seen that some folks keep the backup camera wired to that, but iDataLink says this leads to problems, so I was OK with the blank screen, since it gave me a convenient mounting location for my giant phone (see attached pictures.) Note: there is a European-import double DIN adapter that allows you to remove the Ford display and replace it with a pocket; CarAV is the manufacturer. It is available on Amazon, but delivery times range from 30-60 days to the US, so I passed. 4) If you want satellite radio, you'll need a Sirius adapter; the SAT-1 antenna adapter allows you to use the built-in Ford Sirius Antenna, but the receiver itself is built in to the radio you'll be removing, so you need a new receiver. 5) To keep things neat, I pulled the Ford 12v/cigarette lighter socket and replaced it with a perfect-fit USB/Aux adapter from Rerii (about $10 on Amazon), wiring the USB and Aux inputs from the radio, down under the console, direct to that. 6) Once you've got it all wired, reassemble and you're good to go. Your steering wheel controls will work—all of them, in my experience—as will your LED console display (the one between the instrument panel gauges). However, there are a few caveats and gotchas and notes: One is specific to the Pioneer unit I chose. It has a motorized faceplate, and the Metra adapter has a little bit of a lip that created a hitch to the faceplate's movement, both when turning the radio on and removing the faceplate. The motor keeps trying to push the faceplate forward when it hitches there, so that's bad. I did a little careful grinding down—about a millimeter; no more, because you don't want a loose fit—and the hitch disappeared. Another minor gotcha—and I think this would be true for any radio, although different types of display might perform differently—is that the Ford's dashboard design angles the radio display slightly up. You can see it fine, but that makes it more susceptible to glare. On a sunny Southern California day, the glare almost made the screen unviewable until I went into the Pioneer's settings and disabled the auto day/night brightness setting, leaving it on permanent daytime brightness. That makes the screen better than tolerable on the sunniest days/angles, and perfectly fine when there's no direct sunlight (of course, at night, the damn thing glows like a Cape Cod lighthouse, but...). Another solution I might try is a strip of tint at the very top edge of the windshield. I might try it. I might not. Another point is that the Pioneer unit seems to offer two different means of connecting your phone for calls—it's internal bluetooth, and the still-operative Sync bluetooth. I haven't played with this, and had to install and external microphone since I use Apple's Carplay, which (at least for the Pioneer) is currently a wired-only connection. One very cool thing is the iDatalink compatibility—one of the adapters included leads goes to the OBDI port on the car; that allows the head unit to display all kinds of info (I'll post some photos of this in a bit.) Other iDatalink compatible receivers—from Kenwood, Alpine, maybe others - should do the same. Carplay and Pioneer have some known glitches—random resets and disconnects, mostly, which I've noticed more when using the Audible audiobooks app—but we're talking very low frequency. Once nice thing about Carplay, if you've got an iPhone, is that you simply plug in your phone and it works; no drilling through menus for device selection. This makes my wife, with whom I share this car, very happy. So, overall—a pricier solution than the factory adapter Metra/Axxess offers, but potentially with some additional and useful functionality. I can't say mine is better, since I haven't tried the Metra/Axxess system. User BetaDon has installed that system, to very good results, he says, including retaining the upper/OE display functionality. His account is here: Other Links: iDataLink: http://maestro.idatalink.com Metra Dash Adapter: http://www.metraonline.com/part/99-5831G Metra Antenna Adapter: http://www.metraonline.com/part/40-EU10 USB socket adapter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S6IO0NG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1 A tech support thread I started on iDataLink to get advice on this (registration may be required): http://www.12voltdata.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=323&t=16019 I'll upload some pictures in the follow-up reply. Questions and comments, welcome, of course.
    3 points
  46. G B L

    Electrical Question

    Do yourself a favor and never use this type of splice on any type of wiring unless it is for some one you do not like. These are quick and cheap and very unreliable. The twist on wire nut definitely have issues with vibration. The posi Tap connectors are good . As Don has stated The best is crimping or soldering with heat shrink
    3 points
  47. CATFISH

    2016 XLT

    Here's a few shots of my 16 XLT, Mods include 18" Focus ST wheels that I powder coated gloss black. All the black textured plastic body parts were color matched blue, except for the grille opening and fog bezels which i finished in glosss black. And I also added 35mm front and 40mm rear drop springs. I suffer from automotive OCD, and since I've had it about 8 months, I've already started looking for it's replacement.. but It's delivered more than 15K trouble free miles with an impressive 28+ mpg. It was my first modern Ford, but probably not my last...
    3 points
  48. Got the Laminate Planks in,,,the silver colored oak was a special order item,,,fawn looked good enough, plus it will match the beagles fur when they shed LOL. stuff is super easy to work with,,,I used my trusty knockout set to punch the access holes to the floor bolts. The Tie downs hold the entire floor securely in place, so no tape, glue or velcro needed! I hope this floor lasts a while,,,if not, it will come back out!
    3 points
  49. I was able to get out of the office last weekend for a little camp trip down to South Carlsbad State Beach. It's nice to finally have a car with space! 2 surfboards 2 bikes and all my camp equiptment and firewood fit in no problem! I was even able to set up my hammock off one of the upper tow hooks and attach it to a tree for a nice relaxing sunset!
    3 points
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