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Popular Content

Showing most liked content since 10/24/2017 in all areas

  1. 9 points
    Just got this information from the Service Manager where I purchased my 2017 TC XL Cargo Van: --------------------------------- SSM 46321 - 2014-2017 Transit Connect - Battery Drain Due to Frequent Door Openings and Approach Light Strategy Some 2014-2017 Transit Connect vehicles may exhibit a condition that causes the battery to discharge. If normal battery drain diagnosis leads to no issues, it may be caused by the approach lights illuminating every time the body control module (BCM) receives a lock/unlock signal or opening any door. If the door remains open, the lights will remain illuminated for up to 10 minutes. If the vehicle was built on or before 11-Dec-2016, reprogram the BCM to the latest calibration using IDS release 103.05 and higher. Calibration files may also be obtained at www.motorcraft.com. For all vehicles, access the BCM Configuration Parameters. Select Module Programming, Programmable Parameters, Personality, Approach Light. Choose Disabled and follow the screen prompts to completion. Use causal part 14A068 and applicable labor operations in section 10 of the SLTS manual. APPLICABLE VEHICLES 2014 - 2017 CAR: HC V408 (EU) --------------------------------- The fix was done at no cost, under my warranty. Hope this helps!
  2. 5 points
    I went to my local dealer today with the intent of making sure they can perform this SSM under my 3yr/36k bumper-to-bumper warranty and to give them a heads up if they want prepare with any downloads they need to perform to minimize the amount of time they will need my van in service. I gave the service advisor the attached doc below, he read it, and said they will do this under warranty if I'm having a battery issue. He gave me back the piece of paper, said this type of service is done by their 'electrical tech' and they will need the van for a few days, so make an appointment when I'm ready. Two days? Attitude aside, I'm glad they are willing to make this fix under warranty, I hope. Chapter two to follow. Stand by. SSM 46321 Dark mode.pdf
  3. 3 points

    2016 XLT

    Here's a few shots of my 16 XLT, Mods include 18" Focus ST wheels that I powder coated gloss black. All the black textured plastic body parts were color matched blue, except for the grille opening and fog bezels which i finished in glosss black. And I also added 35mm front and 40mm rear drop springs. I suffer from automotive OCD, and since I've had it about 8 months, I've already started looking for it's replacement.. but It's delivered more than 15K trouble free miles with an impressive 28+ mpg. It was my first modern Ford, but probably not my last...
  4. 3 points

    Vincent VanGoing 1.0

    Had the day off Friday so I decided it was time to add heated seats to my Van. This isn't my first rodeo with adding heated seats to a car that didn't come with them from the factory. The first step was to yank the seats: Having an elevated work area makes things go a bit faster: Disassemble, add the heating element, reassemble: We pulled the center console and mounted up the switches: Wired everything up to switched power and we're off to the races: No more cold butts!
  5. 3 points
    Found a sticky note in my van looks like ford TSB information the technician used. Tried to upload a picture of it the paper found but got a error message file to large? Anyway refers to TSB 12651D4 reprogram BEC module SSM 46321 test 9002 WF Dark mode . Maybe someone can decode this .how do you upload a simple picture off my cell phone to this message board? Hope this helps
  6. 3 points

    Comfort and noise on long trips?

    I appreciate everyones feedback, I finally bought one a 2017 XLT , loaded with upgrades, leather seats, Navigation, Blind spot sensors, very pleased with it so far.
  7. 1 point


    thanks BSUPC
  8. 1 point

    Free Light Bar

    I'd actually like to put that on my tractor.
  9. 1 point
    Been meaning to make a post to this thread. What GBL said is all very true. As reported a few pages back, the center console on my cargo van got super hot when the heater was blasting. I first reported this to my service advisor asking if there were any TSB's or SSM's. Maybe it was too early in the Gen 2 life cycle or she just ignored my request. In March 2017, I brought the van in for regular service and asked that they look at this issue again. What they found was the heater vent was missing a duct cover. GBL was spot on. The part used was DT1Z-19D809-A Connector - Duct - CCS. Repair work done under TSB 150094 under the b-to-b warranty. Appreciate GBL's input in diagnosing this problem.
  10. 1 point

    2017 TC XLT simple camper

    I raised my rear license plate and added a Euro style front plate!
  11. 1 point

    Vincent VanGoing 1.0

    I did remove the glove box and it was not hard to get out, but I'm pretty sure we had to cut some plastic to be able to pull it off the pegs (I don't think it was designed to be removed with the dash in the vehicle). Doesn't really hurt any functionality, but you should be careful putting it back in as it will weaken it a bit if you aren't careful. For the record, my glove box hasn't fallen out and I keep it pretty loaded up! Take this bit of information with a grain of salt, my memory is pretty fuzzy. Also be careful running the wire through the grommet. There is almost 0 room and if you manage to unseat the grommet, the sheet metal is damn sharp and you'll risk stripping the jacket off either the wire you're running or the wiring that's already there. Good luck!
  12. 1 point
    Chapter 2 & 3 - The Good And The Bad Chapter 2 - Brought my van into the dealer on Thursday to have SMM 46321 done. Gave the service advisor the printed out PDF with the helpful notes from Mickster. Two steps to perform, update the BCM and set the approach lights to dark mode. Should be easy peasy. I also asked that the headlights be adjusted higher since I've haven't gotten around to doing it myself. The headlight adjustment seems to be an improvement, that's the good news. The dark mode enabling didn't get done, that's the bad news. The tech updated the BCM, I was told, but when you open the slider, the front/rear lights come on and if you leave the door open they stay on for 10 min, same as before. I always leave my driver side slider open in the garage to air out the van plus it's easy to pop in/out if I need something. Cycling the high beam lever on/off still turns the lights off. Chapter 3 - Back to the dealer this morning for another go at it. Again I give my service advisor the printed PDF, this time highlighting in yellow the second part about the programming. After about 15 minutes, the service advisor tells me they are having problems setting the dark mode. They can see the option in the programming, but it won't let the tech basically save the change or move out of that screen. May be either an operator issue or their programming device but probably not the van, but they need to consult with Ford IT to troubleshoot. Chapter 4 to follow. Stand by.
  13. 1 point

    turn off or shorten duration lights are on

    I'm a happy camper now thanks to the info provided above. I was talking to someone and mentioned the problem I was having with the lights and whether I should call the dealer again. He told me to call a certain person to see if he could help as he deals with repairing Ford fleet vehicles. I brought the van to him and hooked it up. Initially we tried the steps outlined in the document without the BCM update and it did not work. We went to the BCM Programming and updated to the latest version of the BCM and he told me it was up to me to push the button to do the install as he didn't want to be the one to screw things up and me to blame him. Now I even have a greater knowledge of how the IDS software works and how much dealers will try to blow you off instead of getting the correct answers. Thanks for that info it was spot on
  14. 1 point

    Water dripping from fan unit ?

    A/C condensation drain stuck?
  15. 1 point

    Diagnostic tool VCM2 clone or similar

    Our family fleet currently consists of: 2004 Saab 9-3 Arc Convertible 2005 Subaru Legacy Outback Wagon 2008 Saab 9-3 2.0 Sedan 2012 Hyundai Tuscon 2017 Ford Transit Connect Wagon Titanium My first car was a real oddball, a 1976 Chevrolet Cosworth Vega. First American production car with DOHC 16 valve engine + electronic fuel injection + aluminum cast alloy wheels. I still have a bunch of spare parts including a complete engine, wheels and some other items. I hope to find another one someday. Long story.
  16. 1 point

    Door Locks

    Lack of a physical lock button/switch on the inside of the doors is a REALLY stupid decision on Ford's part but there's a real pain in the ass work-around for it. Every door, on the edge of the door where it shuts into the jamb opposite the hinges, has a lock cylinder that fits the key. So you have to open each door, manually rotate the lock cylinder with the key, then shut each door. However, there may be a decently large gotcha. The wording in the manual where it talks about this sucks. I think the manual is saying that, if you restore electrical power, the power actuators are now disconnected from the mechanical portion of the lock. That means you'll have to open the driver's side door with the key (since it's the only one with a lock cylinder on the outside), then crawl through the car opening each door from the inside (remember that the sliding doors and rear barn doors will require TWO pulls before they open), then flip the lock cylinder in the door edge back the other way to "reconnect" the mechanical portion of the lock to the electrical portion of the lock. I'm not sure that's what the manual is trying to say though. I need to go test this on my van before the day I have to do it, come to think of it.
  17. 1 point
    I took this info to the closest dealer to me. They weren't even willing to look at the paper I handed them until I had paid them $120. If they didn't understand what was written or they couldn't find it in my van, they kept the money. Christ, I wish I could get away with ripping my customers off like that! Well, no, actually I don't because I'm not a sleezeball.
  18. 1 point
    Google has some background on "SSM 46321": All these sites only offer that tidbit; the rest may be behind a paywall. Google will find these "BEC module" probably refers to "Battery Energy Control Module (BECM)". "Dark mode" as a term floats around when it comes to turning off this fanciness via the Ford diagnostics software. "TSB 12651D4" - unclear "test 9002 WF" - unclear I'd very happy a solution, too.
  19. 1 point

    connect throttle

    Yeah so i gather, so decided to take it off and have a look. Turns out the central pivot of the pedal is plastic and it had snapped off where it goes into the electronic part of the pedal. So i drilled a hole all the way through the spindle and inserted a small drill bit with super glue through it reassembled and left it to dry over night. Have just refitted it to the van and now its as good as new, simple job to do and cost nothing but small amount of time. Thought i would put it on here so if any one else has this problem then there is a simple solution available to them. Bob.
  20. 1 point
    Mission accomplished, lights don't stay on when doors are open . After a week at the dealership refusing to except no for a answer the function is now disabled. The dealership said they finally found the right technician who had experience with police cars and" Dark mode " .I can confirm that a 2016 transit titanium can have the this function disabled. Good luck !
  21. 1 point

    self contained sub under seat?

    Yes it does. There are separate input and output levels so you can configure HU inputs and amplifier outputs. I was lucky enough to borrow an oscilloscope from work, and set my input and output levels just below clipping. The Rockford amp is actually a little more powerful than I need, but it allowed me to set levels slightly lower, resulting in a clean signal that is plenty loud enough, and lowers the stress, heat, and power draw on the amp. I used this processor as I have Sync 3 and am stuck with the factory head unit, but I'm not bothered by it. My goal was to have a clean, loud system with 25-20khz range that exists in the factory speaker locations, except for the subs of course. I wanted this to discourage thieves. Looking through the windows, there is no indication of anything aftermarket. The system is really decent, still tuning, don't know if I'll ever stop tuning, lol http://www.audiocontrol.com/car-audio/factory-system-upgrade/dq-61/
  22. 1 point

    Retirement Road Trip Connect

    You can also make a front paper dispenser out of your overhead shelf, just roll it around your fist, put it on the shelf and pull the inner end through the perforation, works like the hand dryer roll:
  23. 1 point

    Added USB Power to Overhead Shelf

    Cutting pieces out of your car? I think I’m gonna be sick. (I know, it’s not normal)
  24. 1 point
    Good news Everyone !! and some bad! manual transmission is in the transit , absoloutly everything fits and the connect is made for it, no drilling or cutting of any kind , the shifter and shifter cables , fit , clutch lines and clutch lines brackets fit , tranny of course fits , no engine mounts or tranny mounts needed as they are the same as the auto! , the passanger side axle and intermediate shaft has to be from a manual focus as the drive line is slightly different but is all direct bolt on. Now we have to figure out the immobilizer , and electronic part of puzzle, i swapped the computer with a manual focus computer , but it wont start cause the security system , any ideas welcome , we have been thinking of a few solutions but have not have time to work on it in the past few months, will restart the project early november !
  25. 1 point

    2014 Transit Connect Fog lights

    A Wabbit!
  26. 1 point

    2014 Transit Connect Fog lights

    I have an XL. My solution was old school. Aftermarket, bolt-on fog lights. LED that will illuminate in white or yellow, a handful of different strobe patterns that I can use for warning lights, and it's all operated by a key chain fob remote control. No drilling through the firewall, or drilling into the dashboard.
  27. 1 point
    This directory has almost all junkyard listed that keep inventory of stock in North America, I always check here first. Car-part
  28. 1 point

    New Owner

    Barn doors or lift? Love my 16 XLT TC w /barn doors and windowless rear...starting to call it a panel truck rather than a van
  29. 1 point

    1.5TDCi Catalysor Removal?

    CAT has been removed (gutted, the pipe simply has been emptied), and there's no lambda sensors close to it - I presume the single one sits pre-turbo, no post-CAT one present (so the engine cannot detect the presence of the CAT!). The turbo spins up between 100 - 150 rpm sooner hence the powerband kicks in sooner, more evident than I expected actually. Too soon to determine a difference in fuel economy but the second half of the tank is creeping to 'less' whilst driving same style on same roads to work. Happy!
  30. 1 point

    Retirement Road Trip Connect

    A few more electrical modifications to my 2013 FTC. I added a 2nd 12V deep cycle solar battery. They weigh 72lbs each, so now more ice making capacity . I also added a small battery charger that charges from the rear power point to the solar batteries (12V dc to 12V dc), for when the sun isn't shining while driving and there is ice to be made later. Therefore I wanted the power point(s) to be ignition switched. I found one unused switched circuit (F144 for taxi block) that now powers the back power point. I put in a toggle switch to charge the batteries with either the solar panel or the power point. I also picked up a small 120V ac to 12V dc charger (for when parked/plugged in), neither take up much room or supply much current, couple of amps as I recall, but thinking enough for my purposes. I ran across ready-made jumpers, so no cutting of wires or making my own. http://www.kawal.net/poweroutlet.htm For the front power point (so far just my GPS/phone) I tapped into the fog lamp circuit (F147), also switched, but they do go off with the high beams. I did not find a 2nd unused switched circuit. Any suggestions for a different switched circuit to use for the front power port, please let me know. Next mod, a paper towel holder...
  31. 1 point

    2014 nirVANa build

    Added a few more touches... Made organizing partitions in one box for stove, water, fuel. Then added two fold out tables to use for cooking eating... I don't really foresee actual sleeping in this thing very often as the wife is a travel agent and I can get crazy good hotel room prices, but there is enough room for me to lay down and sleep if needed, like on a late night drive to Jackson or Aspen from SLC. Then cooking wise I really only see myself doing it in the van in those rare instances or at lunch time at the ski resorts, other wise, I'll take the stove in the hotel room to cook with...
  32. 1 point

    After-Purchase Report

    Had my 2016 LWB XLT for 15 months now. Got fried by lightening at 80 mph, back at 40,000 miles or so. Burned out all the electric's/electronics , even Inside the Tranny, everything but the outside light bulbs, Imagine that. Road hazard covered it, was a $6500 repair, cost me my deductable , no biggie. Never had a single complaint, now at 82,000 miles, runs perfect. I don't nit pick it, need a new driver side sun visor, Its sagging a bit, Gas cap/door kinda loose,, Not bad for the heavy use I've put it throgh.. I'd buy another..
  33. 1 point
    Beta Don

    New wheels and tpms

    To keep the same overall size, 18" tires will all have a much shorter sidewall (less 'cush') than tires for a 16" wheel - Bigger wheel, less room for sidewall. Our 55's on 16" wheels already have a pretty short sidewall Our 55's (55% of the 215 width) have a 4.66" sidewall, the 45's (45% of the 215) have a 3.81" sidewall - 18% shorter The 215/45R18's are a close match to the stock 215/55R16's - Only about 1% too big. Probably the best match you'll find, but you won't like the sidewall height if you want more cush https://www.tacomaworld.com/tirecalc?tires=215-55r16-215-45r18 Also, the BIG problem will be finding a tire with the proper load rating - Don't think you can. Our stock 16 Continentals load rating is 97W and the best of the 215/45R18's that I see are only rated 93W - Meant for a car and not a van . . . . especially not a loaded van. If you present this scenario to one of the experts at Tire Rack, they wouldn't sell you a 215/45R18 to put on a Transit Connect The 235/45R18's you asked about in the other thread would be a much better choice for you, even though they are too big around - A 215 tire is pretty narrow to stretch onto an 8" wheel and with the 235's, you can get a properly load rated tire - There are several rated 98W, so make sure you choose one of those. The sidewalls will still be shorter than with the stock 16's, but not as much - 45% of 235 is taller than 45% of 215 . . . . but still less than 55% of 215 Don
  34. 1 point
    G B L

    Retirement Road Trip Connect

    If you put a really good set of Flaps behind the Front wheels and stay in Maryland in the winter you should get great service out of yours. As for the Scout this is the second time that I am going around mine. Between my brother in law and Me it has been in the family for 30 years. Too much history to let go !
  35. 0 points
    G B L

    Added USB Power to Overhead Shelf

    mrtn again!