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Popular Content

Showing most liked content since 01/18/2018 in all areas

  1. 3 points

    Van wrapping fails, again

    Some of it are already well known bloopers, updated: https://www.sadanduseless.com/2018/01/car-ad-failures/ (this here is Finnish, clearly meant to be "REKKAPESU" (truck wash).
  2. 3 points
    I always wanted a "Hippie" van, so after I retired, I bought a Transit Connect and went wild. 1,148 RGB LEDs, two color organs to drive them, a 400 watt amp built into the upper cargo bin, an extra 550 amp battery on the passenger side, half inch foam on the cargo area floor, and 50 square feet of denim insulation stuffed everywhere I could put it. She rides a lot quieter now.
  3. 2 points
    Hah, no problem BSUPC. We all have different goals and skillsets to accomplish them. As a quick follow up, the TC performed great throughout the season and at the Car Audio North American Championships in October I was able to get a podium finish in all 4 events I competed in: One 1st place, one 2nd place and (2) 3rd place finishes. The North American finals bring the top level of competitors who have received invitations based on season points earnings from Canada, USA and Mexico. Just goes to show the potential these TCs have. This 2018 season I will have some other crazy changes in the works and will be pushing toward my goal of winning the championship. Cheers .
  4. 2 points

    My 2010 minimalist TC camper build

    Here's a quick glimpse of my minimalist TC camper build. Yes, the leg to my folding table is resting on the inverter, but unless I stack 50 bowling balls or a couple of anvils on it, I don't think it's going to dent the case. (the table went in years before the inverter). The internal fan keeps the inverter from getting hot, if I even use it at all, and the crutch leg / foot is impervious to heat. But then, again, there isn't any heat to worry about. The kitchen counter stows under the bed when not in use. I used coat hooks, bolted to the underside of the bed to hold it in place, and used a piece of carpet to keep the fit tight and act as a friction source to keep the table from sliding out / off the hooks. It works great. The coat hooks have rubber tubing on them for added friction and slip resistance. The angled, wooden trim under the table eliminates bowing / drooping of the 1/4" plywood counter top. I use similar wooden angled trim, fastened to the insides of the rear doors, to mount the kitchen counter to. Metal pins through the counter and into the trim, hold it in place. Since the cargo area of the 2010 TC is just 6' and I am 6' 4.5", I installed a 10" folding leaf to make the bed 6' 10" long if/when needed. To be honest, though, I never use the leaf. If I fold the passenger seat forward and push it back, the worst that can happen is I wake up with my feet resting in a very comfortable position against the back of the seat. I'm seriously considering removing the existing leaf and replacing it with a 6' X 10" folding leaf, mounted on the side of the bed, that will work exactly the same as the current design. The only difference being that the leaf wouldn't fold all the way under the bed, but hang on the side. Since removing my bulky, Camco, flushing camp toilet and replacing it with a bucket-potty, there is now a lot more room to work with on the side of the bed. As you can see, I do not have a sink, but just a 3 gallon bottle with an attached pump. It works great. I really like it. 1st Gen. TC's come with so little extra horsepower, the less you can weigh them down, the better off you and your fuel economy will be. The last picture is of my driver and passenger side window coverings. I use Reflectix on the other windows, backed up with black curtains for when I want privacy but still a little light. The front windows, however, get indoor / outdoor carpet, cut to perfectly fit the windows. They attach using the "hook" half of adhesive-backed Velcro that I have stuck to the window frames. The carpet, being fibrous, acts as the "loop" side of the Velcro, completing the two halves. I like the carpet because I can roll the windows down to let fresh air in, without also letting flying insects in. The windshield has a custom fit, reflective sun shade to keep things cool inside.
  5. 2 points

    Got my new wheels!

    Oh yeah, that looks soooo much better than the stock hubcaps. In case you're wondering what all the crap on the roof is. It's a 190W solar panel, awning bar, and solar shower. You can't see the kayak saddles from this angle.
  6. 2 points

    Transmission fluid change

    With regard to Beta Don's comment on the appearance of the Mercon LV fluid: "My old fluid didn't look all that great after only 25,000 miles - More brown than red. It didn't small that bad, but it wasn't nearly as pretty as the new stuff. I was a little surprised . . . . I thought with so few miles, the old stuff would still look pretty much new. I'll go 50K with the synthetic and change it again." This Ford mechanic says that is normal for this fluid, for what it's worth...
  7. 2 points
    Went to the dealer today to take a quick look!
  8. 2 points
    G B L

    Winter Tire Thread

    Nokian makes very good winter tires, The Fins know how snow tires work.
  9. 1 point

    Isn't this the cutest van

  10. 1 point
    Fully loaded! iSup board, MTB, all gear and tools asociated with that and 2 Hounds! Headed to Hot Springs Arkansas to race the Kodiak Tough Enduro on the Lovit trail!
  11. 1 point
    A big thanks to Mickster(and others) for providing the info that helped me resolve this issue.Here is a recap: I called the service dept at the dealer where I bought the vehicle before my first service was due and gave "my story" ( My wife and I camp a lot and I have built a camp kitchen that my wife uses through the rear doors.Whenever we open the doors,all the perimeter lights come on which light up half the campground.The lights stay on for 9 mins.I timed them.I feel this is rude to other campers and this is an embarassment for my wife.We often camp with my 11 yr old granddaughter and you know what kids are like.I stated that I participated in an online TC forum,others had the same complaint,some were able to disable this feature under warrantee,I had a copy of a factory SSM on how to disable this but it required a reprograming of the BCM.I want to have this done when I bring the TC in for sevice.) The service rep didn't have a clue and passed me to the "truck guy".Gave my story again.He also had no clue and when I mentioned "dark mode" he went silent for a moment and then asked what that meant.I explained. He then said that when I came in for my service to bring in a copy of the SSM. A month later I called to arrange for " The Works" ( oil,inspection,tire rotation etc.) and gave my story again. Showed up early,talked about the service and other issues,handed over the SSM and gave my story.The next rep over looks over and laughs " You're the dark mode guy".They got together and wrote up the service request as though I was complaining about battery drain.We then chatted for a bit about who we know and how the dealership had grown.The usual crap.His name was Bob. I picked up the truck that night,place was mobbed but everybody was smiley.They charged for service but adjusting the headlights up ,a recall issue and upgrading the "PCM" were under warrantee.Should have checked. Well I did check when I got home and no change in the perimeter lights. Called Bob the next day,gave my story, pointed out the difference between "BCM and PCM" and he said he would get together with the service manager and see what they could do.Please email a copy of the SSM. Got a call from the dealership two days later.A woman wanted to know how my "experience" was.She said that I would soon receive a email survey from Ford and she hoped I would give the dealership high marks.I gave my story again and she says Bob told her about it and they were working on it. I soon got the survey but did not respond. A week after the first call I called Bob again.Still working on it.Didn't have to give my story.I thanked him for his help and said I really hoped we resolve this issue. I got a reminder about the survey. Delete! Bob called two days ago and I was not optimistic. "When can you bring it in" "Thursday at 7am" "Fine" he says I show up a 6:55.Door is locked.Sign on door says service dept opens at 7:30. I go sit in the truck. Bob comes over about 10 mins later and says "Show me" I did. He says shop foreman will be in soon and I'll get back to you. I sit in waiting room. About 7:30 Bob comes over with the shop foreman who says show me. I showed him and told my story.He says "OK" hops in th TC and drives away to the bays. 10 minutes later he's back and says I'm all set. Finally done. No paperwork.No charge. The first tech did upgrade the BCM but did not find the proper box to check off in the program This was not a small dealership,but this was the first time dealing with this. I guess Ford is not very forthcoming about this issue.The service personnel are constantly playing catch up with the technology and it's not getting easier. Persevere,laugh,tell a story,be polite,come equipped with knowledge and don't piss anybody off. This can be solved. I filled out the survey and gave the the highest ratings. I hope they remember me.
  12. 1 point

    2014+ Lowering Springs

    I'm all for tall skinny tires:
  13. 1 point
    G B L

    Larger Wheels

    You should see behind my shop!
  14. 1 point

    Larger Wheels

    Yes, I just checked it and there is a TON of clearance back there. Maybe an inch or better. Ride or protection is not my goal. Someone on here said it perfectly. "Form > Function" Cost however is starting to matter. I have acquired over the past few months 3.5 sets of wheels with virtually brand new tires on them. Sometimes a Wheel Whore has to sell something.
  15. 1 point

    2014+ Aftermarket Windows?

    If anyone is interested I found another company www.van.glass and ordered it to Canada.
  16. 1 point
    G B L

    Larger Wheels

    A 15 could fit the rear but it is definitely no go in the front on a gen 2. I looked into it for mine , I was trying to increase the tire sidewall height to improve ride and protect the wheels.
  17. 1 point
    Beta Don

    Larger Wheels

    I think they *probably* will The rear rotors are smaller and on my van with 16" alloys, I can easily stick my fingers between the caliper and the wheel rim - It looks to me like there's a good bit more than 1/2 inch of clearance there and that's all you'd need Go buy a 15" steel 5 x 108 wheel at the wrecking yard and give it a try - They *might* even let you jack it up and try the fit before you buy it Don
  18. 1 point
    Beta Don

    Wheel Size Question

    I have no doubt that "they can get them on there" but they're not going to perform very well - That size tire belongs on a 8.5 to 10.5 inch rim and squeezing them on such a narrow rim won't allow the tread to stay flat all across the width, so you're very likely to wear out the center before you wear out the edges Also, unless you are using a similar size (diameter) tire on the front , using a 7%+ too large tire on the rear is going to cause the traction control computer fits - You'll need to turn that off But . . . . it will probably look cool as hell - What else matters?? Don
  19. 1 point
    Hey everyone, Just wanted to share I recently ordered a curt trailer hitch from etrailer.com for my 2014 LWB Titanium and am very pleased. Great pricing, shipped fast, packed well, tutorial videos for install, and great instructions included made the installation a breeze. Definitely recommend these guys... https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/Ford/Transit+Connect/2014/C13167.html?vehicleid=201422753 All the best, Justin
  20. 1 point

    Wheel Size Question

    As someone who, until recently, designed suspensions professionally, even a few pounds of unsprung weight is a big deal. The fact that the solid rear axle design is slightly lighter than a solid, live rear axle design doesn't make it a good design. That's like trying to say it's ok because you caught the good leprosy. Unsprung weight is one of the few design factors where the ONLY correct number is 0 and anything other than that is bad. The farther you are away from 0, the worse it gets. It dramatically affects the ability of the tire to track the road which leads to big changes in road-holding. This is, obviously, a handling issue but what everyone forgets is that it's also a safety issue. Cars with well optimized suspension stop better, swerve better, and are less likely to roll over. All of these things may someday make the difference between avoiding a crash and being in a life-threatening accident. Simply put, cars with better performing suspension are safer than cars compromised in the name of cost (and under the shield of customer ignorance). If you guys remember when Ford brought out the new pickup trucks, they did a series of videos with Mike Rowe comparing the Ford to the competitors. They showed the trucks driving over various test tracks and real world scenarios showing how much better the Ford did than the competition. One of the big things that the videos shows was that (even though they're all using stone age technology) the Ford truck's suspension was better optimized and produced better real world results. So even in trucks, this stuff matters. For that matter, even without the pumpkin, the solid rear axle is an antiquated design that should have been abandoned for all non-haulage uses around the time we got rid of steam trains. Fully independent suspension should be the only default for a passenger vehicle (and remember, these things are basically a Focus with a box on top). The problem is that a solid, undriven rear axle is cheap. Ford made the gamble that most of their consumers are uneducated about basic engineering (which is definitely true. Americans love cars but know, on average, staggeringly little about how they work) and simply wouldn't know any better. You see the same cost-cutting design in other small, cheap cars. To bring this back to a context for this forum (though admittedly straying from the discussion of unsprung weight), the Connect has a solid rear axle while the... crap, whatever Dodge is calling the Fiat Doblo here in the US... has fully independent suspension. I was able to find a dealer that had both (company owned a Ford and Dodge dealership on the same parking lot) and test drive them repeatedly back to back in the hills of Appalachia. The Doblo's rear end was SUBSTANTIALLY better controlled than the Connect's and the Doblo also was much more comfortable to ride in (my Connect doesn't smooth out in the rear end until I get about 600lbs of payload in the back). From a ride quality and handling viewpoint, the Doblo was vastly superior to the Connect. However, the Doblo's windshield stopped so low that I couldn't see traffic lights when I pulled up to the stop bar, so the Connect won the shootout because of that.
  21. 1 point
    Hi everyone Van Update
  22. 1 point

    Transit Connect Lowering Kit

    I designed and manufactured a one=off bolt-in transit connect lowering kit. I am a mechanical engineer. The kit can be uninstalled and is completely reversible and rode awesome. It includes new front coil springs and a new rear suspension system. I have the engineering drawings for all the parts so these could be reproduced. It lowers the van 3+" in the rear and over an inch in the front. It is designed to level out the ride height while still being matched to the factory dampers and allowing some usability of the van (cargo capacity). $750 for the kit. $500 more for the engineering drawings. (This kit took many many hours to design and much more money to produce)
  23. 1 point

    My 2010 minimalist TC camper build

    A friend bought a house in Pebble Beach recently, I hauled pretty much all the furniture that went into it. So yeah, being able to remove the interior was a consideration for me too. I thought about using aluminum for the table supports, but getting it would have required driving several miles further than the Home Depot, where I was buying the table top material from anyway. (It was a much shorter trip from the plywood to the trim department). The kitchen counter / table weighs nothing at all, but supports anything I place on it....... which is typically food and my stove. I'm not going to try sitting on it, though. =/
  24. 1 point

    Got my new wheels!

    Apart from maybe the original hubcaps, which are great. Too bad I lost mine.
  25. 1 point

    My 2010 minimalist TC camper build

    The temporary table is a really neat idea.
  26. 1 point
    G B L

    Are these factory lug nuts?

    The Important thing is the conical seat being the same as the wheel . The non capped Acorn style nuts will have a smaller OD than the OEM Capped nuts. If you live up in the road salt belt you want to remove the Capped nuts before you are stuck on the side of the road unable to change a flat tire.
  27. 1 point

    Pics of the new DD modded

    Focus ST wheels and Thule cross bars
  28. 1 point

    Ford Transit Connect Custom Builds

    Wow! I think I just had a seizure.............. What does the outside look like?
  29. 1 point

    Removing wheel-well covers?

    The white clip stays with the black arm when removing. Slide the tool between the two and pop the clip out of the sheet metal. The white clip looks something like this generic pic below.
  30. 1 point
    G B L

    hub cap suggestions

    The steel wheels are about $60.00 new from a place like Tirerack, use that as a guide. In my case I had factory alloys , when I put a set of winters on I looked into steel wheels. As it turned out Tirerack had a nice looking set of Alloys for $75 .00 as a close out. I now have two sets of Alloys and no hub caps.
  31. 1 point

    hub cap suggestions

    I love generic 5-spokes. Had these once:
  32. 1 point

    hub cap suggestions

    Unfortunately, that particular model is no longer in production.... So I ordered a set of these. I'm generally not a huge fan of generic-looking 5 spoke wheels, but at least they're black. Now if I can just figure out how much to ask for my stock wheels and hub caps (no tires).
  33. 1 point

    hub cap suggestions

    I mounted winter tires on mine. Some people enjoy the steelies and you'll get decent money for them if they're in great condition.
  34. 1 point

    hub cap suggestions

    I like it. Can't go wrong with black wheels.
  35. 1 point

    Can rear disc brakes be added to a 2010 TC?

    Should be possible as European TC van models (Tourneo Connect) are equipped with rear discs.
  36. 1 point

    Brake Caliper Covers

    Just Got these on ebay & put them on today. Very easy to install, About 5 minutes per Tire.
  37. 1 point
    Mine is off the train and on a truck, about 10 miles away from the dealer. So, should be at the dealer today! This would make the total time from ordering 4 months 2 weeks.
  38. 1 point
    What makes the 2014-Current Transit Connect such a versatile Camper van/vehicle? Let’s start with size, price, ease of driving, ease of storage, easy of cleaning in a drive through car wash, garage-able campervan, great gas mileage, low cost to insure, great daily driver, adaptability…. And they make a great TOAD / DINGHY! What? An adaptable vehicle? What’s that? For many it is a daily driver- sell or trade in a vehicle for a campervan that can be used not only to camp but for the all-around vehicle. For others, it is a Campervan that also has a large area to haul items that would not fit in the truck of a car, for others it is a Campervan that can get you to the grocery store for shopping- load the refrigerator and be able to run other errands before heading home worried about food spoiling outside of a refrigerator, how about the trip to the park- stove cookware, food and cold beverages already packed…..always ready vehicle! How about the place to take the afternoon lunch nap in the parking lot at work- even a lunch getaway is a nice getaway when a nap is in order. Hmm, tent on wheels that does not need set up, torn down or dried out as soon as you get back from a trip. How about the full timers, snowbirds, or folks with the big rigs that get parked for extended periods who pull a TOAD / DINGHY? The transit connect campervans are an excellent choice for a TOAD. Weighing under 4000LB these campervans are absolutely the most versatile TOAD / DINGHY’s available for those towing on a dolly. The only downside is they cannot be towed “4 down” for those who prefer the 4-down towing. DLM-Distribution ~ Campervans of Lake Crystal MN
  39. 1 point
    I don't use my 2010 TC behind an RV, but I did turn it into a little camper. Works great. Not wanting to hack large holes in the roof, I didn't install the roof vent / fan, but I did mount a Yakima roof rack and install a 190 Watt solar panel, solar shower, kayak rack, awning, and hitch-mounted bike rack. I've also got a comfy bed mounted behind the passenger seat, a toilet, water supply, two tables (one that fold out of the wall), and a 120 Volt inverter. I don't have an issue driving something huge, I do it every day at work, but I do appreciate the compact size of the TC for ease of parking, great fuel economy, and a good ride. Being 6' 4" I really enjoy the extra headroom the earlier models have. I can comfortably sit on my bed with my legs at a 90 degree angle below me, and not hit my head. I can also kneel on the floor next to the bed, but this requires that I tilt my head down a little to avoid the roof above me. Still, there's plenty of room for changing into / out of kayak gear, or getting ready for bed while camping. My only complaint, and it's a minor one, is the super-stiff rear suspension. I'm hoping I can find softer leaf springs to replace the cargo van suspension it currently has. It's not a big deal on the highway, but bouncing down dirt roads while scouting out a good camp site, really beats the tar out of me!
  40. 1 point
    I pulled the trigger about a month ago and bought the overpriced door actuator / latch from the Ford dealer. $331. Well, it fixed the problem with the front - passenger door unlocking itself, but now the drivers front door is doing it. =/ Ugh! I can, and might, replace the driver's side, but I'm a little worried that the problem will simply show up someplace else when I do. You know how electrical gremlins are. My luck, the rear doors will start doing it as soon as I fix the driver's door. The reason why I worry that the problem isn't in the latches themselves, is because before I replaced the passenger side latch, the issue with the driver's side only happened once in a hundred times. And even when it did, it often took opening and closing the passenger door to fix it (WTH?!) Now that the right side is fixed (presumably), the driver's side is doing it all the time. The only difference is that it's much easier to remedy this issue on the driver's side than it was on the passenger side. What I mean is, I don't have to open and close the driver's side door as many times as I did the passenger side when it did this. Generally I can just open and re-close the driver's side door a single time to fix the issue......... until the next time it does it. I'm not sure I'm relieved to hear the problem is happening to other people, or more worried that this is a bigger problem that Ford has yet to address. Or maybe even knows about.
  41. 1 point
    Thanks so much for your helpful responses! And thanks for the kind words BSUPC. I started with the easiest fix and figure I'll work up from there. So far I bought the special brush and cleaned the terminal posts and clamps. I added the felt washers and bought some grease/lube that should help the connection stay solid for a while. Happy to report it's started fine ever since! Hope this remains the case. If not I'll get into the more detailed fixes you guys gave. Thanks again!
  42. 1 point

    Removing wheel-well covers?

    Hey sorry I should have specified what I was talking about more. I'm talking about the black plastic covers on the inside over the wheel wells.
  43. 1 point

    New member

    Hello everyone, Just bought a White 2018 TC LX cargo. First Van I’ve owned. It is one versatile automobile. Always bought trucks, like the fact that everything gets locked up out of sight.
  44. 1 point

    Pics of the new DD modded

    No howling but a have noticed some wind noise, but not much.
  45. 1 point

    anoying back up alarm sound

    I also have the Curt trailer hitch and wiring kit, and as I have a raised ball mount to fit my trailer, I end up with a scenario very similar. My solutions are: 1 - Remove the ball mount if I don't need it; it only takes seconds to remove, and I don't like to bump into it. 2 - I have a switch to temporarily disable the alarm when I have the ball mount installed or when I back up with a trailer. (2015 XLT wagon). The switch leaves the camera active.
  46. 1 point
    Little bit of TC in the beginning of my video:
  47. 1 point
    Hey whats up guys. Quick Update, I know I've been offline for a while. found some nice thin (less than a 1/4" thick) rubber mat material at Academy sports so I cut a few pieces to fit to provide some good traction on the floor and also lining the front cabinet bottom. I purchased a small 4x8 single axle utility trailer to handle yardwork stuff, material movement and possible motorcycle transport. Added the CURT trailer wiring harness and wired the hot lead into the rear passenger fuse box "hot" 40A spade terminal with a 15A fuse in line. I finally dropped the big loot on this ARB 50qt. fridge/freezer combo unit. I made a custom pigtail adapter to power this thing through my trailer wiring harness which is coiled up in the jack cubby hole on the driver side rear. Made for a more clean layout instead of running the wire across to the passenger side 12V socket, but that option is always there if I need to go that way. I had to rip about 1/2" of wood lengthwise off of the end of my flip top on the bed cabinet. This worked out perfect because the vent for the ARB unit is on the right side of the fridge so it has plenty of space for ventilation. I'm using these very handy and simple straps from REI to hold the ARB in place-"Sea to Summit Accessory Strap with Hook Release." This is all for now. I will test out the fridge on a trip tomorrow. Later!
  48. 1 point

    Vincent VanGoing 1.0

    Nice redesign. I'm curious, though, why not mount the electronics under the false floor? My van has the vinyl floor and I removed everything related to the false floor, including the vinyl that's hiding underneath the false floor, and there's something like 11.5" of vertical height wasted in there. If you look at my gallery pics, there's a whole bunch in there from when I took out the floor. In any case, it would put the electronics & battery out of the way so you have more storage room for other things you need... Right now, I have part of the false floor back in my van because I needed some extra flat space. My plan is to build an opening toolbox/chest there at some point.
  49. 1 point

    Vincent VanGoing 1.0

    When I first got my TC, I couldn't find a cord for the block heater, and ended up thinking that there was none. After reading recent posts, I checked my owner's manual, and it doesn't say "If equipped" under the "Engine block heater" title page 117, so I took another look, and sure enough, there it was. The reason I didn't find it previously, is because I was looking for a cord that looked like the one in my previous vehicle (Ford Focus wagon), which was a flat 3 conductor cord with a plug at the end, much like a regular household HD cord. The cord on the TC is wrapped with corrugated loom, and the plug is round. The whole thing was hiding under another loom to the right of the air filter. I would think that a block heater might be standard in colder regions in the US as well. I hope the pics will help some of you find theirs.
  50. 1 point

    Micro Camper Conversion 2015 LWB XL

    Phase 4: Windows, Insulation, and Vent Fan: The day I cut huge holes in my brand new car. So, this album brings you up to date on where I'm at as of last night. I spend almost the entire weekend installing 3 windows, a Fantastic Fan, and insulating body panels. We've got a trip coming up in October, so the goal was to make it a little more "livable" for the trip. Without windows in the back of the van, it got pretty stuffy in there with two of us. The windows and vent are from Vintage Technologies that sells parts for teardrop trailers. Cutting into the van was a little scary, but once everything was all put back together it was well worth the trouble. The windows make a huge difference! Since I had to make panels to help mount the windows, we also started insulating the ceiling and panels. It's one layer of self-adhesive duct insulation which a lot of people use as a cheaper alternative to Dynamat, and then a layer of Reflectix where space allowed. The next step is to start doing finish work and making things look neat. Phase 4 Photos The point of no return. The lines look a little sketchy in this shot, it took a couple tries with one of the corner to perfectly match the template. Holes Cut! The blue tape made marking the cuts much easier and kept the paint from getting scratched. Windows In Interior window shot. The windows open and have screens in them. Hole cut for side window. I didn't realize until I started cutting that the panels on the side are plastic rather than metal. Window #3 in! The angle of the body panels give a weird optical illusion in this shot. The window is flat against the van. I swear! Battens glued to the ceiling Frost King duct insulation on the ceiling Step 1: Self-adhesive duct insulation Step 2: A layer of Reflectix, glued in place Step 3: Wooden Panel Ceiling vent framed in. The Reflectix is glued in, the tape is just there to keep it in place as the glue dried. Ceiling vent installed with bead-board Hard at work installing Reflectix Bonus "Work Shop" Shot. This is where I've done all of the work so Far. Also, Jake the Dog. Put back together! Ceiling vent. Not crazy protrusive!