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Showing most liked content since 06/25/2017 in all areas

  1. 3 likes
    I have added interior panels over the ugly window cutouts. 3mm Alupanel was used and the cavity behind the panel is stuffed with 12 oz. of Polyfil for sound deadening and insulation. The plastic layer in the sheeting also serves as a barrier. The process was somewhat involved and required several steps. Heavy paper patterns were developed first. Next the patterns were transferred to cardboard. Cardboard was cut out and holes were punched, the targets being the three 3/8" threaded holes in the frame. After some further adjustments and a test attach of the template using the actual bolts, the carboard pattern was used to mark out the shape on the Alupanel material. The shape was cut out and the edges filed and sanded smooth. Getting the panels attached to the van walls requires some force. The material must be forced inwards to allow the 1 1/4" bolts to get started in the threaded holes in the walls. This is due to the slight curvature of the van's side walls. Large rubber washers cushion the panels on both the front and back. Before snugging down all bolts 12 oz. of Polyfil were stuffed between the panel and the wall. A long stick was used to push the Polyfil and adjust it into place. A test fit of the panels without the Polyfil revealed that the material does actually deaden sound.
  2. 3 likes
    Got the Laminate Planks in,,,the silver colored oak was a special order item,,,fawn looked good enough, plus it will match the beagles fur when they shed LOL. stuff is super easy to work with,,,I used my trusty knockout set to punch the access holes to the floor bolts. The Tie downs hold the entire floor securely in place, so no tape, glue or velcro needed! I hope this floor lasts a while,,,if not, it will come back out!
  3. 2 likes
    0I wanted a roof rack to carry the occasional 2x4 or plywood, etc. but didn't want to spend the money required by the after market suppliers. While in my local big box hardware store I came across the aisle that contained the electrical conduit supplies. They had an item they called "UniStrut" it's made out of mild steel and looks like a "u" with rolled over lips at the top of the u. They had another item called "top grip nut" that slides in the unistrut channel then turns 90 degrees to lock into the channel. The wheels began turning in my mind. The unistrut fits into the channel in the roof of my 2015 lwb cargo van and is bolted to the roof by 3/8" bolts through the existing plastic plugs in the roof. The "top grip nuts" allow me to fasten a plate to the unistrut that allows me to add cross bars which can be adjusted depending on what I'm hauling I purchased 2, 10 foot unistuts and cut them at 6 foot for the roof rail leaving me 2, 4 foot lengths for the cross pieces 2 bags of top grip nuts (5 nuts per bag). 4-4 hole steel blocks The cost of all this was $50.00 I then purchased 1/2 inch nuts, bolts, and washers for a total of about $30.00 Time to put this all together about 5 hours I plan on buying one more piece of United and cutting it in half along with more bits and pieces to make 2, 5 foot cross bars The pictures should show you how it all went together. When I'm not carrying anything, it all comes off except for the unistrut that acts as the roof rails
  4. 2 likes
    This summer I am building out my 2014 XLT Cargo to better function as my traveling snowboarding rig. I owned the van last winter and love the space it has and the fact that I can change my clothes/boots in the back hassle free out of the elements. I put on Nokian Hakkapeliitta 8 studded tires and the van was unstoppable in the snow. https://www.discounttire.com/buy-tires/nokian-tire-hakkapeliitta-8-studded/p/24922 We had a big winter here in Utah and even on the worst days with those tires the van was a beast. This is the first non 4WD/AWD vehicle I've owned in 25 years and I was a bit apprehensive when I made the decision to get the van, but with the right tires the apprehension was proven to be unwarranted. The only thing that ever gave me an issue was about 12" new in the parking lot one day as the van has low clearance, but with a heavy foot on the gas and knowing how to drive in the snow I was able to manage. Ground clearance is the only thing I can ever see being an issue, and the days that it is will be very very far and few in between, in other words, they will happen so infrequently that all the other days having the van will far out weigh those days when and if they do happen, and I'll make it through those day by not being an idiot.. This summer I am going to be building benches/cargo boxes to keep all of my stuff in. I'll build a short one on the drivers side to sit on and be able to change which will keep all the winter necessities, washer fluid,tow ropes, chains, jumper cables, snow shovel, emergency blanket and emergency food/water. On the passenger side I'm gonna build one pretty much full length that will hold 2 (or maybe 3 ) snowboards. This will keep them from flying around in the back, keep them hidden from prying eyes and keep me from having to bring them in the house every single night. So to get started the stock mat had to go. Vanrug finally started producing a rug for the newer body style in the last few months and I loved the Begrug I had in my F150, so I bought one. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y2CCH3G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Then under that I decided to lay down a layer of sound deadener, Stinger Roadkill is super well priced and you can get a bulk pack for around $100 on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005ATJ04S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I did the floor and the rear wheel wells to help cut down on some of the road noise. The van rug, being a carpet type material quites the van a nice bit compared to the stock mat which reflects quite a bit of sound being a closed cell rubber mat. I also bought a cargo net to hang from the cross beams which will come in handy for gloves, beanies and goggles after a day of snowboarding so I won't have to shove them in my gear bag right away. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016YTNWSW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I bought a sheet of Alumalite and will be making panels for where the rear window cutouts are and will mount hooks and a few things on them. About a week ago I pulled the door panels, sanded them and painted them black to have the back match a tad bit better. Today was sound deadner and Vanrug install day. All in all it went well. The next two things happening will be the cargo boxes, which I'll build at my dads house as he has a full metal and carpentry shop, and then a stereo system, I like my music and I travel a bunch in the winter. For the cargo boxes I'm gonna drive over to PDX and visit my old man for a week and build them with him probably in the first week or two of August. The stereo I'll do here in SLC myself... For the stereo I go high end, you get what you pay for... The Amp is an Audison AP 5.9 - 5 channel amp http://www.ebay.com/itm/Audison-AP-5-9bit-car-audio-5-channels-amplifier-and-processor-/262776470995?epid=2118060557&hash=item3d2eb2bdd3:g:ILgAAOSw44BYXp9s it runs 40x2 - 90x2 - 1x270 Even though that is only 530w, since the amp is an Audison it's really like running a cheaper 1000w amp... If you know anything about mobile electronics bench testing and sustained output then you know what I mean.. The Amp also has a built in Digital Sound Processor so you can fully tune the system, the amp also uses line-in connections so you can run it off a stock radio and retain all of your factory functions. I also bought the dash remote kit for it so I can adjust the sub/speakers on the fly. I'm gonna mount it where the stock 12v port/change bin is and relocate the 12v port to inside the console box next to the AUXin jack. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Audison-DRC-MP-Digital-Remote-Control-Media-Play-DRC-MP-/331962025664?hash=item4d4a7a86c0:g:jC8AAOSwOdpXzrrS For the door speakers I went with Focal K2 Power 165 KR2.. These are 2ohm speakers and will let the amp run with a higher output, once again spendy, but you get what you pay for.. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_091165KR2/Focal-K2-Power-165-KR2.html?tp=106 Then for the sub I went with a JL Audio 10TW3-D4, this is a shallow mount sub, with dual voice coils so you can run it @ 2ohms to get the most out of your amp. It's gonna go under the the passenger seat and I'm gonna utilize the space from the little storage compartment that is built in by making a fiberglass box that perfectly fits in that space and then pours out to the surrounding area as well, but that space will let the sub sit plenty low under the seat, really it's kinda perfect. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13610TW3/JL-Audio-10TW3-D4.html?tp=111 So we will see what the next month or so brings and I'll update this as I complete more things...
  5. 2 likes
    Hello Zach, welcome to the forum. I like what you have done with the TC, good job. The price value proposition seems to be appealing. You have done a lot with the van, and rather than pick it apart I would rather applaud you. Realizing that there are many people who do not have the skill, time, or desire to convert a van themselves, yours seems to be a thoughtful and reasonable alternative. Anything else needed could be easily carried on a roof rack or a hitch basket for very little added money. We have a 2012 Transit Connect that I seldom get to drive because my Son is touring the country with it and paying his way as he goes. Ours was a raw build with a premium stereo system with speaker boxes in the rear, an elevated bed, and storage underneath the bed. As we built the van we calculated each item's weight cumulatively, including cargo and personal body weight being careful not to exceed 1600 pounds total. We succeeded in doing that and the van functions well accordingly. My son loves it. I do have one question, what is the total weight of the build? I only ask that because I'm sure some people will want to add a roof rack and or hitch. Knowing how much more weight could be carried before reaching 1600 pounds capacity would be helpful. Also, for safety, being sure that the tires associated with the build and extras are adequate to handle the load. Many of the tires available for the TC have a 1200 or 1400 pound rating. The Michelin XL has a 1700 pound rating, which is what we needed. These kinds of disclosures and tire info would be helpful to your buyer and provide added trust to your online presentation, which by the way is very good. Thanks for the presentation and good luck.
  6. 2 likes
    Bright yellow adjuster right on top. One of the best designs for ease of adjustment I've come across. And the knob takes hex keys or has screwdriver slots in the bottom of the hex recess. Here's a photo of it on my 2015 TC
  7. 2 likes
    These two bagel brothers like camping out in the back of the van more then I do lol. You can see what I mean with the tie off point there,,,Right now I'm just looping their lead around the hook. I might look into make something more clean and simple, but same idea. Is this an alternate safe way to travel with them in their harness as opposed to being in a wire crate that can fold up etc in a crash? Also serves as a nice place to hook some plastic bags for trash or whatever else.
  8. 2 likes
    I didn't have a clue, so I did a search. The 'skylight' is actually called the 'Vista Roof' and yes, it appears it does come with a sliding panel (a power one no less) to block the sun in the daytime http://www.buyford.com/carresearch/Vehicle-Quote.html/year_2016/make_Ford/model_Transit Connect/trim_LWB Titanium/id_32578/confid_buyford/section_Options/ Hope this helps! Don
  9. 2 likes
    You two guys need to get together! Park them side by side, do a little drilling and bolting, then shake hands and go your separate ways Don
  10. 2 likes
    Back from our trip to Colorado! I drove the entire route solo both ways approx. 13 hours straight. Was not even the slightest bit fatigued after all of that driving! Did a lot of high elevation driving including 1 drive up to the summit of Pikes Peak with a fully loaded van (2 bikes, gear, 2 dogs, full 8 gallon water tank). Overall the van did great but was easier to manage in the hills in "S" mode where I could select the gears. I can now see the value of that swing away hitch that was posted in here for the bike rack. We arrived a day early as I mentioned above and found a place to pull off on a dirt road in the Pike National Forest. I set up my bed arrangement and it worked great. I also cracked a window and had a bug screen with magnets on the exterior of the sliding door window. Problems arose as temperatures plummeted into the 40's. It got too cold to sleep and I didn't have a sleeping bag or anything, just a thin sheet so I turned the van on to warm up the interior. My fuel guage said that we had approximately "300 miles to E". It seems when the van idles with the heat on, I counted 8 minutes 46 seconds for the fuel indicator to drop a mile. I figured this would give me PLENTY of time to finish a good nap before running out of fuel. (ie: 8min x 200miles / 60 = 26.6hours). Sure enough, I slept great! Woke up, drove down to the Hungry Bear in Woodland Park, CO and had a nice pancake and egg sandwich breakfast with coffee. Shower was also really nice to have and I used it several times to rinse myself off and my bikes. It's even better if you need to rinse the dirt out of a wound from MTB riding. Finally, the fuel mileage was great! Speed limits were 75+ in many areas and we were doing that and up to 80-84mph on cruise control and I was averaging over 24 mpg!
  11. 2 likes
    hi well i did swap a manual tranny on my 2010 tc , its pretty much a bolt on parts from a manual focus, everything fits like the are the same car , brake and clutch hoses are identical, shifter and shifter cables are exactly the same and same lenght , clutch pedal and master cylinder are the same , in the exact same position , there is even a clutch line guide that bolts on behind the abs module that has the right hole and guide to bolt it on and has the perfect angle , all motor mounts and tranny mount are the same as the auto tranny, all the mechanical stuff is in, but i meay need some help with the wiring and computer stuff
  12. 2 likes
    Been a while...but fear not! The project rolls on... I ordered a shifter assembly from a Ford parts supplier in the UK: It looks awesome and I'm pumped about it. I also ordered a Mishimoto radiator to replace the OEM ST unit. My original radiator in my 9-2x was the same design as the OEM ST one - crimped on plastic end tanks - and cracked open on my one day. I'm not going to see that happen again. This week, Vaccar will be swapping the complete wiring harness from the ST into the TC. They are very close, but not quite close enough for comfort, and this will make sure we don't end up with some crazy electrical gremlin that is impossible to understand due to a mix of systems.
  13. 2 likes
    You're missing a few, there's still room left.
  14. 1 like
  15. 1 like
    Try resizing the image, 1024 pixels wide is good enough and is much smaller in file size. Any resize app works, or do it online, just a random service http://www.picresize.com/
  16. 1 like
    If you want a switch for it, then it would be easiest to tap a fuse on the inside fuse panel than to mess with going to the battery. They make a 'fuse tap' which replaces a fuse and still keeps the original fuse in the circuit as well as adding a second fuse for your new circuit. I bought 5 of them on eBay for less than $3 when I added running lights to my fog lights Don
  17. 1 like
    What you do depends on what you want the van for. I built my floor way up with storage underneath. I still haven't gotten back to putting something down to smooth out that well a bit where the seat bolts are. But hopefully I'll get to that soon. Others level it with the back section and put some type of trap door or hinged lid. It's all in how you intend to use the van. I kind of wrote out 3 or 4 primary goals of what I wanted to do and that drove the build. Still a lot to do!!! Tiller
  18. 1 like
    Me neither this was my first build. Lots of lessons learned. Take your time and really think it through. Here's a link to my build. Hope it helps! And hello from another mountain/road biker!
  19. 1 like
    That's my van! Go look at my build thread and you can see what I did although I opted to build a stable flat platform over the lower 2nd row area to maintain that low entry point on both sides of the van while still allowing plenty of space to put "things".
  20. 1 like
    We have been living in a 12 foot long Camp Inn teardrop trailer (towed by our 2015 TC) for the past two years. We had sought a way to mount a solar panel on our van to recharge an AGM battery in our camper, and had a very difficult time finding anything close to decent advice on how to do so. So I asked the Camp Inn factory for help. They advised me on how to tie the solar panel into the charge line that goes from the alternator to the van's 7 pin connector. It was necessary to add a relay switch near the van battery, which allows the solar charge to go into the charge line when the ignition is off, and the alternator charge to go into the line when the ignition is on. . The camper has a built in trickle charger that can recharge the battery when connected to shore power. But the big power draw is a Dometic CF35 compressor cooler, and its power needs interferes with the trickle charger's ability to fully recharge the AGM battery. To avoid this problem, we keep the Dometic in the van during the day, which assures that the camper battery is fully charged at night when we move it to the camper (this is also great when we do grocery shopping, as we can store perishable food right away - it also gives us access to our food when we are away from our campground). The solar panel assures that the van battery is getting recharged when the ignition is turned off, thus keeping the Dometic from drawing it down too far. The details of this installation are found in this post on the Unofficial Camp Inn Forum: http://campinnforum.com/community/threads/tow-vehicle-solar-step-by-step.4030/
  21. 1 like
    ok, so this is my only car, its my daily driver, my business vehicle, my camper etc etc i have a regular job, as a mechanic, and i have my own business, https://foldaflame.com where we make portable flat packing fire pits and grills, for camping, overlanding, or just plain having fun. i use this thing to go to events, carry product, pick parts up from manufacturer, etc, so it had to be a pretty versatile lay out for me, and this is the best i could come up with in regard to sleeping and storage, and also convertible storage for big hauls. theres going to be more to come, hope you enjoy. sunday we leave on a 2 week trip to the pacific northwest, from so cal, destination bainbridge island, by way of yellowstone and then some.
  22. 1 like
    Yes, you will need to run seperate power up there. Personally, I added an accessory source behind the glove box that I tapped for power. But there is a convenient pass through to the engine compartment to run a wire directly to the battery. It's at the base of the A-pillar, behind the foam you can see in the second post / third photo of the write up I did for this project a couple years ago. I have both a 12V outlet and a USB power source for dashcam, etc. up there.
  23. 1 like
    The Real question before a switch is , Did they put the reinforcing in the door opening for both sets of hinges or are they Vehicle specific. The hinge mounting location are reinforced. The 270 doors would be a nice feature. On the Gen 1 it looks like it is the hinge and the magnetic door stop that would be needed.
  24. 1 like
    That 'work around to avoid the tax' ended in 2013 Don
  25. 1 like
    I compete in sound quality mobile audio competitions across the US and my new vehicle is a 2016 TC LWB wagon. Sound quality competition dictates that the system must produce the audio very accurately and with a high degree of realism- something that is challenging to accomplish in the destructive environment of a vehicle cabin. Unlike the home, where speakers can be placed equidistant to the listener and in a large open space, the vehicle rarely if ever allows speakers to be identical distances to the listener as we are seated to one side of the vehicle. In addition to distances, speakers producing the entire audio spectrum are installed in different locations, heights, angles and reflecting off of different shaped surfaces and materials which are more or less absorbent. In short, getting excellent stereo sound in *any* vehicle is extremely difficult due to the inherent challenges of the environment. This thread will likely be the 1% of audio upgrade type builds in the TC and much may not necessarily apply to what the vast majority of owners are doing, but keep in mind this is built for competition and pushes the boundaries a bit because of this. This is my 4th competition vehicle over the years and I've learned a lot along the way (and have much more to learn!) and have made some great friends. With each build I try to improve upon what I have done before and try to improve my fabrication skills and continue learning. This thread will serve as my "build log" for this vehicle, sharing the information I learn about this specific vehicle and the reasonings why I choose to do things the way I do with the TC as I progress. Hopefully it will provide some useful information to you all, and if not- a little entertainment at least. To start off, here is the vehicle: A 2016 Transit Connect LWB Wagon. It has been lowered a little and the wheels are upgraded to 19".
  26. 1 like
    Not sure if what your trying to say is not clear or if what your trying to say is wrong but I believe the cargo vans are more expensive to import because of the 25% "chicken tax" on imported trucks. Because of this all cargo vans were imported as passenger vans then converted to cargo vans then the seats and windows were shipped back to the factory.
  27. 1 like
    Great thread, thank you, your timing couldn't be better for me. I'm in the process of upgrading my sound system, and these photos with the carpet removed is very helpful. I've attended a few car audio shows and seen the competitions, but I haven't competed myself. My upgraded system will be nowhere near the level that you are at, but it is serious eye candy for me. I'm looking forward to the rest of your build.
  28. 1 like
    The low load limits are only derived from safe center of gravity. This is to prevent the car from tipping over when overloaded and top-heavy. You can safely install a pop-up tent on sleep on the roof rack together with your companion.
  29. 1 like
    Headed out to Silverthorne, Colorado tomorrow morning with the van, 2 beagles, and both bikes,,,Going to try out a night of dry camping tomorrow and then check into the hotel Saturday,,,
  30. 1 like
    Yes, the blind spot monitoring system is disabled by the trailer module when a trailer is attached. But, you need fully functional trailer lights or you will get bulb failure messages when you turn or brake.
  31. 1 like
    Maybe there is another solution. Your factory trailer wiring includes a trailer module (computer). I think the sensors are deactivated when a trailer is connected. Maybe a simple plug-in tester like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0049MX8AY?psc=1 Will be enough of a load for the module to sense a trailer is connected. I will review the service manual to see what it says about the sensors.
  32. 1 like
    There is a connector for the sensors behind the passenger side rear wheel that you could try disconnecting. That may work to silence the alarm but may give a failure warning. Just guessing here, not an expert. If you do disconnect it, make sure to protect the ends against moisture since you won't have the water seal anymore. Here's some photos of my 2015 showing the connector. The live end of the connector could probably be moved back to the interior of the vehicle through that grommet you see the flat trailer wire coming out of in the photo. You could also remove the sensors from the bumper entirely to protect them, but that would leave holes. Or you cold do a halfway solution and disconnect the wiring only at the individual sensors being triggered if it's just the hitch step in the middle triggering the center sensors and not the entire bumper length triggering them all. You can see the sensor connectors and how they are just held in by plastic tabs in the photos.
  33. 1 like
    Nice step bumper Guard. IIRC, the owner's manual lists a rear sensor disabling procedure but it also mentions it isn't a permanent disabling. The section is for when backing up while towing or using a hitch hauler.
  34. 1 like
    When I inquired it was $375. Then another $100-$125 to get it to Alaska. Kuat is coming out w/ something similar for $300 that I can get from REI so I have a place to return it if there is a problem. http://www.bikemag.com/gear/kuat-pivot-allows-2-hitch-rack-swing-away/
  35. 1 like
    I did lots of research before buying our TC - The big question I needed answers to was did I want the 2.0 with the 4 speed auto or the 2.5 with the 6 speed. Hands down, that's a no-brainer, so we went shopping for a used 2014 or 2015 . . . . whatever we could get the best deal on - Once I did the research, we never looked at a Gen 1 We cruise at 2250 RPM at 70 mph and the torquey 2.5 can pull it OK up most hills without down shifting to 5th. 6th is a true 'overdrive' as 5th at 70 mph gets you 3,000 RPM and at that RPM it will pull just about any grade without needing to downshift again The fact that they advertise the transmission as 'maintenance free' is actually a good thing, IMO. If they don't expect transmission problems for those who bought the Ford extended warranty and don't do any maintenance, imagine how reliable it will be for those of us who are doing regular fluid changes. I do wish they had given us a dipstick to check the level though - The procedure we need to use is a bit labor intensive . . . . but then, it's only needed once every 25K The 6F35 was jointly developed by Ford and GM and it's an awesome transmission in my opinion. The ability to put it in any gear you like and keep it there has already come in very handy. Also, if you have the cruise control set and go down a steep hill, the computer will downshift automatically for more engine braking so you never exceed the speed you have it set for - I love that feature. I've never driven a better combination of small engine/transmission than the 2.5 mated with the 6F35. I'm 100% happy with it. I've driven several cars with small 4 cylinder engines mated to 4 speed transmissions and always found them lacking - You just need more gear ratios to get the best from small engines, even in small cars - Buying a 2.0 four mated to a 4 speed automatic in a 3500 lb van (maybe pulling a trailer, which we frequently do) would have left me kicking myself for not doing more research Don
  36. 1 like


    From the album BSUPC Radio Upgrade

  37. 1 like
    Hey kizdog87, welcome to the forum. There are some good folks here that will help. There are lots of van owners here that convert their vans to suit their dogs as a good owner should. Enjoy, there's lots of fun stuff that happens here.
  38. 1 like
    Boomerwwps you may want to consider using 3/8 inch birchwood plywood for both it's strength and light weight. I used it on an elevated bed platform on a SWB. The platform was built on 2X3 wall studs with minimal bracing. Since I'm not sure about the folded seat strength or weight capacity of them, I'm not sure if you would have to use the studs or if the plywood could be placed directly on the seat backs. If you used a short vertical stud, the studs, bracing, and plywood would be light and easily handled. Either way using plywood would be a good assist in loading and unloading. I would send a pic except I'm in Missouri and the TC is in California with my son. When he gets back I'll show some pics. We mounted two heavy speaker boxes on the floor, facing the back barn doors, six inches from the doors, cut into the bulkhead to mount two additional speakers, and replaced the front door speakers with five inch high end speakers, they fit perfectly. We replaced the alternator with a high amp alternator, ran wiring to the amp and speakers. That TC is like a concert hall...LOL. Despite the high volume and tremendous booms of the base, the computer elements located under the console were unaffected and performance was normal. Despite our good efforts, we couldn't blow the doors off the TC.
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    Not too bad eh? Everything went back in fairly snug,,,
  41. 1 like
    Looks good! Here are the 18's I put on recently.
  42. 1 like
    Now onto the awkward floor fix,,,after lots of careful thought with weight and strength in mind,,,I decided to go with a galvanized Unistrut base and either a 1/2" oak or birch ply cut to fit the entire area from door to door and screwed down into the unistrut. if the 1/2" ends up being too flimsy I can go to 3/4". No carpeting will be cut and all existing M10x1.50 threaded holes are being used. This photo is simply mocking up what I'm doing here. It should explain itself if you know what you're looking at under that carpet. All Unistrut purchased from Home depot and the M10x1.50 hardware from Ace. The small 2x4 to the left will be replaced with another one of the small vertical risers I'm bolting in (Had to call it quits for the night because I didn't want to continue pissing my neighbors off cutting unitstrut with my mitre saw lol)
  43. 1 like
    Today I completely removed both second row seat mounts under the carpet and the center bracket...I am going to build up a wooden platform to run across the top of that huge opening where the rear A/C ducts run. It looks like I can possibly get away with not having to cut the carpet. I think having a nice flat base in that spot will be best instead of bringing it up to the cargo floor height and using the void underneath as storage. Plus it should make getting in and out of the van easier as well. I also purchased some 2' x 2' rubber interlocking tile from Lowes. These mats are pretty neat at 1/2" thick but they will require a flat base for sure so I found a nice 4x 8 panel 1/2" sanded plywood that I will use as a base over the "dynamatted" floor once all of that comes in! The tiles were cheap so I may or may not use them,,,Have been throwing around the idea of laminate floor planks on top of the plywood but rubber seems like it may hold up better to road vibration,,,we shall see,,,
  44. 1 like
    Okay so here I am today,,,Limo Tint Complete,,,Pulled the side panels in the rear, removed the final 2nd row seatbelts,,,removed the carpeting. I think I am going to go with carpet again but I'm not sure how I'm going to pad the underside of it. Dynamat? Some other type of soft barrier or foam? Any suggestions? I am also looking for a local reliable outfitter to install a low profile roof top unit and shore power connection to my van. I was thinking like a Coleman Mach 8 since its only 8" tall and will allow me to park in my garage.
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    For such a new car I would only check the air filter before taking it in together with Ford's own brochure and fuelly printout of other drivers' averages.
  47. 1 like
    Note the positioning of snap in tabs on the inside of the liftgate panel so that you don't break yours when removing.
  48. 1 like
    My initial thought was to use even more foam to lift the deck surface above all the obstructions to get a nice flat plywood deck. But the rise of the seat mounts would have meant raising the floor 2 ½ inches, almost half the extra space gained by removing the seats. But I could get a mostly flat floor by removing the center seat mount (T50 bolts). I decided to leave the side mounts since the obstruction was minimal, the door sill trim was attached to them, and they would provide a nice strong mounting point for securing cargo. That way a single sheet of plywood would provide the smooth load floor that was my goal and only cost ¾ inch of space. This gave strength to the top of the bins and allows them to be removed from the side. I also chose not to cover the plastic trim at the rear of the floor to minimize risk of damaging it under heavy loads and maintain access to the spare tire lowering winch.
  49. 1 like
    So I guess I'd have to call the dealer and ask for a decent price if I want the parking aid. Ford charges $495 for front and rear or $295 for the rear only. I wonder if our dealer would do it cheaper... but to be honest not sure if I want to spend in just the sound. I already have the back up camera and helps a lot. What would be cool is to improve the visibility in the back through the dual symmetrical doors — through the original rearview mirror (medium to small size) I only see two squares...
  50. 1 like
    I just priced a Class 3 hitch w/ wiring harness for $310.00 installed. I will let you know how it looks when I get it done. These people have done hitches for me before.I will be pulling a 6x10 cargo trailer from NH, to Prince of Wales Island, AK come May when we move. I will fill you in on that too. We will log over 4,000 miles when we are done.