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  3. Yes, they are great fridges. I'm using the cutoff voltage on High, works great and I don't have to worry about a dead battery.
  4. Rebuilt Transmission Problems

    Hey Tedg We are having a similar problem with our 2012, it has 125,000 Km. Seems like our 3rd gear is gone at times. Skips 3rd and shifts hard into 4th. Usually going up a hill. We brought it in to a transmission shop. Said we need a rebuild. Has any one had a rebuilt transmission put in? Does anyone know what they up grade? It's pretty pricey to have it done here in Canada and we don't want to replace it with the same transmission with no upgrades and get the same results.
  5. I believe after two month you probably already made your choice, but for anyone else who will be searching for the same answer. So, I had comustar and avital in my previous cars, everything works great till... it’s not. The main problem is that if something goes wrong you have a bunch of random wires, shitload of isolation tape everywhere and no chance to figure out why it’s not working. Even the most reputable shop will never properly solder those wires. And yes, you will definitely loose your warranty as soon as dealership will see all that mess. Aftermarket systems should be connected at least to ignition and breaks, something dealerships don’t want to see spliced. OEM system from Ford is plug-and-play, you just need to plug it into your OBDII, it has approximately a mile working radius, can be bi-directional, or even work through the app on your phone. You also will get a passive alarm system as bonus. I am to cheap to just pay 600$ to the dealer, and hey, where’s the fun in it? You need control module, antenna and the fob. Part numbers you can find on this forum. In my case I bought used control module with t-harness for 30$, new antenna on ebay for 50$ and a bi-directional key fob for 70 (you can find it cheaper). 150$ in total, but you also need to activate it through Ford IDS system. If you have the IDS software you can easily do it yourself, or pay 60 to 130$ to the dealership. If somehow it will stop working I know for sure what to check. All the wiring is untouched same as my warranty. Hope it will help someone to make the decision.
  6. Those are amazing little fridges, aren't they? I have experience with using them on several boats. I designed and built electric systems on probably a dozen offshore sailboats for customers over the years. Wind, solar, deep cycle storage (predominantly using flooded golf cart batteries and sometimes L16's) with inverters and charge controllers. I set up the fridge on my last boat to run off a pair of AGM golf cart batteries I bought from Sam's Club. If there was anyway to squeeze them under the hood, I would have a pair of those on my TC. Golf cart batteries are the biggest bang for the buck in deep cycle storage by far I would set your cut off voltage to 'High' (11.8 volts) because using 10.1 will kill your battery and 11.4 will still do it great harm. I don't see why 'Medium' (12.2 volts) would hurt anything for the restart voltage Repeated discharges to 50% will certainly shorten the life of any flooded starting battery - It causes the plates to shed material which falls to the bottom of the case and will eventually short out the plates, but AGM batteries don't suffer this same fate, so I'm not at all worried about an occasional 50% discharge on my Duracell AGM. Many people buy this same battery for use in boats which run all sorts of things, including fridges, for several hours with the engine shut off. I like that the manufacturer thinks enough of it to actually honor a three year full replacement warranty My experience with buying batteries online isn't good. Hardly anybody wants to hear from you when you have an actual problem . . . . whatever went wrong must be YOUR fault and they don't really care if you're a repeat customer or not, whereas buying locally you are dealing with the same people you would be returning it to should there be a problem. Even Amazon doesn't talk to you if a battery you buy from them fails - They refer you to the manufacturer and your odds of getting satisfaction there isn't very good Don
  7. This is all great information, you two are having a good discussion on this subject, it is very interesting. The fridge/freezer I bought is an ARB Fridge Freezer 50 QT (10800472), supposedly one of the best. I bought it because it has three battery protection modes and draws very low intermittent amp draw. I'm currently using it in my 2016 Ford Edge with a regular battery. I've left the fridge running and set to 34 degrees F for 2 days without problem. It can go down to 0 degrees and make ice cubes. It hardly cycles on and off, quite amazing. But, I'm sure this is not good on a regular battery, so, this is why I want an AGM for my ordered Transit Connect. I'd buy an AGM battery right now for the Edge if I could pull it and put it in the Connect when I get it, but don't want to take the chance it won't fit. Here's the fridge/freezer and specs... They say it draws an intermittent 1.35 amps per hour. here's the three settings for the battery monitoring. I leave it on the safest setting of HIGH. On this setting it has never cut off yet. I have seen my battery at 11.9v, but my Edge still started with no noticeable degradation in cranking. BATTERY MONITOR MODE LOW MED HIGH Switch off voltage – 12V DC 10.1V 11.4V 11.8V Restart voltage – 12V DC 11.1V 12.2V 12.6V Here's the Fridge/Freezer and specs at the manufactures web site. ARB 50 QT Fridge Freezer
  8. The event will take place at Ford Field on Tuesday, October 31 with the program starting at 12:30 p.m. View the full article
  9. P0403 code on 2014 after replacing EGR valve

    Thanks Don I'll check it out this week end. That is where it was on my Grand Caravan also. I dumb place to put a peice of electronics.
  10. Honestly, 20Ah out of a 70Ah SLI battery is a BIG discharge. It's not risking being stranded, but it's not healthy for the battery in the long run. The typical specs that people compare for batteries don't tell the whole story and the bit that most people don't read is where the TPPL AGM batteries earn their keep. Download the datasheet and look at the performance graphs they provide, you'll see the difference compared to a normal battery. For normal starting duty, the big deal is that they have dramatically less voltage sag when the starter fires. This spins up the engine faster and results in solid starting even when things aren't going well. For example I've started the car from overnight cold at -35F and it cranked and caught as fast as it did at 70F. It also means you can start a 2.5L motor with high compression pistons off a battery the size of my fist, which is why the racers like them so much. The TPPL AGMs also withstand higher rates of discharge and recharge without damage. They also withstand greater DoD with less voltage sag when a new load is added. This translates to being able to do things like forget the headlights, run your fridge/segway/ham radio for a long time, and then reliably start the engine even once you've pulled the battery down much farther than is wise. Like I said before, that old Optima Yellow Top you liked was a TPPL AGM. The new Optimas aren't TPPL anymore. Durability wise, as I said I've installed near 100 of them for clients, largely in race use for performance rally (which is a horridly abusive thing to do to a battery!) without any early failures. Between our two cars, we have 23 years of combined experience with the Odysseys. The only one we've replaced was the very first one we got at just over 9 years after we bought it. It was warrantied with no out of pocket cost. I have, however, seen people manage to kill them in 2 ways. The really common one was people tightening the battery hold-down until the plastic began to creak. They squashed the battery hard enough to break it, in other words. I think I've seen 7 or 8 people do this, all younger guys. One guy also had placed his in a bad spot and it was getting way hotter than it's spec'd for and he killed it in about 3 years of doing that. Dealing with the public's mis-use of cars for the last 12 years, it's the guys who are the most pissed they're not getting a freebie (and then claim the customer service is terrible) who are the most likely to have broken it rather than having a legitimate customer service claim. Now, all of this doesn't mean that an FLA or some other AGM are bad batteries, they're perfectly fine. I'm just pointing out that a TPPL AGM battery will be significantly better for the kind of use brought up in this thread and, as far as I'm aware, the Odyssey is the only TPPL AGM car-application battery still on the market since Optima and Sears (the DieHard Platinums were just rebadged Odysseys) abandoned the technology.
  11. The Segway is listed for 140 watts, 120 volts. It actually measures 110 watts when charging, so two of them would be 220 watts which calculates to about a 20 amp draw from the battery for the inverter when the engine isn't running. The battery doesn't seem to mind that for an hour or so - Don't think I've ever left it running for more than about 90 minutes. I also carry a very powerful, but tiny 120 volt air compressor which will actually fill a car or trailer tire in just a minute or two and I run from the inverter too, usually without the engine running. It's very handy to use with a 50 foot extension cord - You can reach just about any tire. Nobody makes a good 12 volt compressor which actually pumps much air, probably because it would need 40 or 50 amps to be able to do the job and you can't plug that into an accessory socket The Odyssey isn't much more powerful than the stock battery. It's very expensive and nobody but Odyssey warrants them. Several users on Amazon reported failures within just a year or so and Odyssey blamed the failure on everything BUT the battery and refused to honor their warranty. One guy said he went back to an Optima because they had never given him any problems Other folks seem to love them. To each his own I guess. I like my 3 year, no hassle, free replacement warranty from Sam's Club. A warranty is only as good as the company that stands behind it Don
  12. Don't get me wrong, I think AGM SLI batteries are fantastic, especially if you get a TPPL-type one. I've installed probably close to a hundred of them for my clients. Before LFP was an option (and it still isn't allowed by some sanctioning bodies), I installed the Odyssey PC680 into MANY cars because it was the lightest battery that would reliably start the car (and restart it on track if they spun and stalled it) in all weather. Do you know what the power draw (input Watts) is on the Segway charger? I'm curious to see how much you'll be sucking out of your SLI battery if you stop for lunch for an hour, 2 hours, etc. The rest of this is me looking up data and writing it down for future reference but it's relevant to this thread. The stock BXT-96R battery is a BCI Group 96R battery. The BCI 96R callout is 9.6" wide, 6.2" deep, and 6.9" tall. The terminals are auto standard, Right Hand Positive. Don says he fit a Group 48 battery in the stock battery box, which means it'll hold at least a 12.1"x6.9"x7.6" battery. Hawker has the Odyssey PC1200MJT, which is a TPPL AGM that blurs the line between SLI and DC. They claim it's a drop-in replacement for the Group 96R stock battery and has dimensions of 7.87"x6.66"x6.80. Compared the BCI 96R callout, it's slightly too deep but will have lots of clearance for height and width. According to Don's experience, it should fit just fine since his 6.9" deep battery fit.
  13. First, they haven't sold an NiMH powered Segway since 2005 - Ours are all lithium powered and each Segway uses a pair of 75 volt, 5.2 AH batteries (390 WH and $900 EACH new) so I'm charging 4 of those - 1560 WH total. The built in Seg charger isn't very powerful - It takes 8 to 12 hours to recharge if the Lithiums are fully discharged, but a full charge lasts for 20 miles or more so we seldom ever get them much below 50% DoD. It's not at all unusual for a lithium Seg battery to last 10 years or more, which is good, considering the replacement cost Second, if you read my post above, the reason for getting the more powerful AGM battery was so we could leave them in the van charging while we stopped for gas or lunch - The rest of the time, recharging is done while we're driving The other reason for changing to an AGM is because it's one heck of a job to change the battery in a Gen 2 TC and since I already had the 3 year old battery out while making the high current connection to the battery bus bar, I wanted to put something in there which (hopefully) will outlast 2 or 3 stock batteries, because I don't want to have to mess with it again. A bit of advice for the average owner - When your TC needs a new battery, buy it from some place which offers free installation As I said, I'll be sure to report back here when the AGM quits on me, so everyone else will know not to waste their money on an AGM replacement for the anemic (and way overpriced) Ford BXT-96R . . . . or, if it lasts 6 or 8 years, we'll all know it was a very good idea Don
  14. It took a bit of googling, but the NiMH battery pack in a Segway has a 220Wh capacity. The pair of them together then would need 440Wh if fully dead. Hopefully, you're not running them that hard because even NiMH batteries don't like being run to 0. An 80% discharge of the NiMH batteries would require 352Wh to recharge the pair. If you want to use an AGM DC battery, you need a nameplate rating of 704Wh, which would be sold as a 60Ah battery. The 3.5A at the 20-hour rate would lead to a nameplate of 70Ah so it will keep the AGM battery above 50% Depth of Discharge (DoD), which is fine for a DC battery. However, the Duracell battery you're talking about is not a DC battery. It's an SLI battery. It's designed to be used in the 5-10% DoD region. Using it repeatedly to 50% DoD is not what it's designed for. A little more googling shows that a normal 12V minifridge draws about 480Wh over an 8-hour night while a REALLY good one, like thousand-dollars-for-a-small-one level of good, can get that down to 220Wh over an 8-hour night. The normal fridge would require a 80Ah battery to last an 8-hour night and the super efficient megabuck fridge would need a 37Ah battery for the same period. Next thing to consider is recharging it. First, the car's "charge controller" on the alternator (and that's in quotes because it's very, very half-assed) isn't designed for recharging a DC battery from a deep discharge. Second, a typical FLA battery is designed to take 10-14 hours to recharge without damage from a 50% DoD cycle. A top-level TPPL AGM battery like a Hawker Odyssey can cut that to 4-6 hours without long-term damage. Of course, blowing them all away, the LiFePO4 battery bank I'm designing right now for install into the van can fully recharge in as little as 10 minutes if I can find a high-power charging source. Recharging from the engine of the van, realistically I probably can't draw enough current from it to recharge the LFP battery faster than about 1 hour without frying the alternator and stalling the engine.
  15. Well, 3.5 amps for 20 hours is plenty deep cycle enough for the way I'm using it to charge the Segways - They won't ever need half of that. I suspect it will run a small fridge overnight without any problem as well Don
  16. You're confusing AGM with DC. Not all AGM batteries are DC. You can buy both SLI and DC AGMs. DC batteries do perform badly as SLI batteries in cars because they don't like the treatment. They're not designed for the repeated large outrush nor the charging profile. The car won't notice. It'll start happily even under poor conditions. The battery just won't be happy about life. The Duracel AGM battery you installed is a SLI battery, not a DC. As long ago as you make it sound, your Optima Yellow Top would actually have been a TPPL AGM battery, which absolutely do blur the line between DC and SLI. However, the Optima product line today is junk and you wouldn't get anything close to that performance out of one. Which is quite sad, actually.
  17. Starting batteries don't make good deep cycle batteries, but the reverse isn't necessarily true. The AGM I installed has 50% more "cold cranking amps" than the stock battery and they wouldn't rate it that way if it wasn't intended to see duty as a starting battery, nor would they be offering a three year free replacement. As a general rule, AGM's handle higher recharge currents much better than flooded batteries do I have a 1994 Miata which came with an AGM battery mounted in the trunk - AGM's are the stock battery in many more cars these days. Anyway, I replaced the OEM battery in my Miata with a deep cycle Optima Yellow top and that lasted me almost exactly 10 years before I had to replace it . . . . with another deep cycle Optima When the AGM I put in my TC fails, I'll report back here . . . . if this forum is still around then ;-) Don
  18. P0403 code on 2014 after replacing EGR valve

    I don't have my book handy to double check, but I *think* it's in front of the left front tire, down low just behind the fog light. If you remove the wheel and the fender liner, you can't miss it. I had to remove a large computer there (which I assume was the ECM) when installing new fog lights with DRL's in them. Really odd place for it as it's bound to get destroyed in even a minor fender bender and I'm sure it's really expensive, but as you know, there's not much room for anything else under the hood If that one isn't the ECM, someone please correct me - If I get home to check the book, I'll correct myself if it's not the right computer Don
  19. When it comes to workplace charging, Ford has found that if you build it, they will come, and they will charge. View the full article
  20. P0403 code on 2014 after replacing EGR valve

    Where is PCM located?
  21. Addendum: AllDataDIY.com claims to have TSBs. Does anyone have a membership?
  22. We do amateur astronomy and this van is super unwelcome anyplace telescopes are found due to this idiocy. I'd love more details on how to turn it off as well.
  23. You guys also need to remember that starting/lighting/ignition (SLI) batteries are a different design than a deep cycle (DC) battery. SLI batteries are designed to support VERY LARGE amp draws for just a few seconds as the starter runs and then immediately be recharged at a high rate by the alternator. The total storage capacity that a SLI is designed to cycle through is just a few percent. A DC battery, on the other hand, is designed to be cycled to 50% of nameplate capacity but NOT designed to support the huge current draw and rapid recharge of automotive use. Use either battery in the wrong situation and you'll have reduced performance and short service life. As far as better batteries, take a look at Thin Plate Pure Lead (TPPL) AGM batteries. Optima batteries used to be good examples of this this tech but have long since cut corners and cheaped out. The only SLI TPPL AGM batteries I know of on the market today are the Hawker Odyssey batteries. The AGM Duracel listed above is not a TPPL design. It's better (in some ways) that a traditional Flooded Lead Acid (FLA) battery, but it's not as good as a TPPL AGM battery. I don't know if Hawker makes an Odyssey battery to fit the weird Ford box, but I'll be checking shortly. Just remember, the kind of use you guys are talking about is BAD for SLI batteries. If you really want to run a fridge or charge Segways while the engine is off, you need a secondary DC battery system.
  24. Picked mine up!

    Welcome aboard lots of good info and Ideas here
  25. Picked mine up!

    Picked up my '17 LWB XLT Cargo Oct 6. So far, LOVE IT! Traded a 2011 E150 'cause it was getting too hard for me to drive. This is GREAT! It holds my drums, PA and my bass player and his gear as well! After looking (hard) at the Nissan NV200/Chevy City Express, Dodge Grand Caravan, Chrysler Pacifica and the Mercedes Metris, I gotta say, so far, this was the intelligent choice! I'd joined the forum prior to making my decision because I wanted to see what other owners were doing and saying about their TC's. This forum has been informative and entertaining as well.
  26. Ford Motor Company is issuing a safety recall in North America. View the full article
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