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  • Popular Contributors

  • Posts

    • TC aftermarket wheels
      Nice and classic looking, a bit like blender blades. I've just installed my new ones yesterday.
    • Interior door panels
      I promised I would post pics of the panel change I made in my 17 XLT. i bought the ABS plastic sheet from TAP plastics for about $70. I re-used the plastic clips from the stock Masonite panels. They are virtually the same thickness. The ABS is 1/8" I believe.  Anyway, bought a saw blade made for cutting plastic. HUGE difference from a fine metal cutting blade. Very impressive smooth cuts.  I traced th old panels to the new material, and drilled undersized holes for the clips, to insure a tight fit. It took awhile, and takes a bit of time to cut the door pieces. Looks FAR better that the cheap looking Masonite panels.   now unable to load more pics?     
    • TC aftermarket wheels
      These wheels are exactly the same dimension as stock.  16x6.5, 5x108, 50mm offset, 63mm center bore. Just installed yesterday. Didn't want fitment issues, and wanted to keep everything within the sheet metal. They are painted aluminum,  made in Germany, 'rial' brand. They were $108 each, and came with lug nuts. Really happy with the look. 
    • Ford Motor Company and Zipcar to Plant 20,000 More Than Trees after Successful College Earth Month Campaign
      Ford Motor Company and Zipcar, the world’s leading car-sharing network and largest provider of campus car sharing, today announced that as part of their long-standing collaboration, the companies will plant 20,869 trees on Saturday, April 29, through One Tree Planted as a result of their college Earth Month campaign. View the full article
    • Ham Radio Install
      In the expedition and the Suzuki, I was able to drop an overhead console at the antenna point, and that gave me access to drill upward, and to mount the connectors.  No such luck on the connect.  I am worried that I won't be able to get enough access with just pulling the headliner down a bit, especially in the front.  I can probably use the position above the middle dome light for the middle antenna.  I haven't looked at the back position much yet. All the parts are in, and I could theoretically start this week, but the weather here is going to be snow or rain all weekend, so it looks like I will be pushing to next weekend at best. Fusing:  No worries, that's one reason I choose larger gages. I want the wire to be rated significantly in excess of the fuse current.  In a typical fault, the wire will have rubbed on something which shorts through the insulation into a small point of contact on the wire, with high local heating.  The large gage acts as a heat sink until the fuse blows.  This article by LittleFuse is excellent: http://www.littelfuse.com/~/media/automotive/catalogs/littelfuse_fuseology.pdf From the graphs, it appears that a 25 or 30A maxi fuse may be what I need. That seems wrong, but look at figure 2 which shows the time to blow for a 30A fuse at various currents. Two seconds at 100A, and basically "never" at 50A.(!)  Section 6 says that I should not exceed 47A for under the hood applications with a #6. Fuses are tricky.  I will of course have spares on hand and this is open to revision. Related:  I had a run in with this phenomenon in my day job a couple years back, and I highly recommend a read of the article "Low Voltage, the Incompetent Ignition Source". In my case it was a PCB which had passed all applicable UL testing, but was capable of igniting and sustaining a flame under certain conditions. The brick power supply detected the fault, and was in "hiccup" mode, but the PCB couldn't quite dissipate all the heat from one pulse before the next one hit, and the temperature got high enough. Don't underestimate the ability of low voltages to cause fires.  They show one case where a lithium coin cell caused ignition on a PCB. The two radios in transmit could draw as much as 38 amps.  I've decided on a #6, which will probably be about 10 feet or less.  Powerstream has a nice table that tells me that #6 will do 38 amps all day, (literally) and will sustain 110A for short periods. The chassis wiring rating is conservative, but does assume that the wire has air surrounding it rather than being bundled or enclosed with other wires. I will have something like 0.004 ohms in series with the battery, so IR loss is 0.15V.  It's all about the I^2R losses. Assuming a 40A fuse current the I^2 term is 1600A, and the resistance is .004 for this length of wire, so 6.4 watts of heat lost in the wire over its total length. That's nicely conservative. I will at least temporarily use the chassis as the ground return until I get better info on the implications in this vehicle. I can always run a ground return if needed.  If I need to run that wire it will be fused, to protect against wiring faults like open battery-ground cable which could subject my ground lead to more current than it can sustain.  The likelyhood of this is near zero, but it is not zero.  Depending on where the battery current sensor is, that ground would terminate either on the battery, or on the point where the battery grounds to the frame. Diamond recommended their C213 cable for the HF antennas, so it's their antenna, their mount, and I can't much argue with that. http://www.diamondantenna.net/c213.html The mounting of the two radio main bodies and the tuner will be an interesting problem. One option might be to locate the tuner in the drivers side back pocket near the jack, and save space under the seat.  I've got the mounting brackets for the control heads printed in PLA now, and that all looks good. I will have to re-print them in ABS or some other high temperature filament before summer, but that's a ways off yet. One of my smaller problems is finding a home for the two microphones, but I'm not too worried about that.   I'm looking for some doc that will tell me the relative safety of mounting two VHF/UHF antennas in close proximity. I worry about the receive front end in one radio being damaged by the other transmitter.  I will not have a lot of options in locating the center antenna, and somewhat less on the front and back antennas.  
    • Ford Delivers First Quarter Revenue of $39.1B; $1.6B Net Income; $2.2B Adjusted Pre-Tax Profit
      Ford Motor Company [NYSE: F] today reported its 2017 first quarter financial results. View the full article
    • Ham Radio Install
      There is a section on removing the headliner, but it is involved. It is probably easier to remove the plastic buttons in the middle and carefully pull it down for limited access.
    • Utility floor / motorcycle hauling
      interesting layout. where did you get that track from?
    • Ham Radio Install
      I have a 2015 TC and have a Yaesu radio in it. Sounds like you just need to take your time and remove the headliner and run the cables for the antenna. Your choice of a 4 guage power supply wire will work great just dont put too large of a fuse on it. Also, putting a fuse on the ground wire is never necessary. Just make sure the positive wire is fused. I have searched for the service manual for my model. All I have found so far is a dvd on Ebay for around $300 that covers the TC.   
    • 2016 TC XLT LWB Wagon Project Mtn. Biker/Dog Hauler/Camper
      I wonder if you use a thicker, dense foam or rubber mat you may not need the plywood base. http://www.americanfloormats.com/gym-mats/ There are a lot of options. I have an aversion to putting wood inside a vehicle so I would be motivated to try something else. Maybe the rubber weightlifting mats? 
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